Tsavong Lah Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 I keep hearing things about resin models being harder to take care of and not lasting as long as plastics, and I'm considering picking up a few things from Forgeworld. So what's the deal with resin? Should I avoid it? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/207634-forgeworld-resin-models/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simo429 Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 They are fragile and pinning is essential but they are boss Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/207634-forgeworld-resin-models/#findComment-2476887 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rider-75 Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 the fact you are aware that they are essentially ore fragile means you will naturally be more careful with them. and they are amazing models. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/207634-forgeworld-resin-models/#findComment-2476973 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ullr Direfang Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 I have some and had a little trouble cleaning them, but other then that they are great. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/207634-forgeworld-resin-models/#findComment-2477101 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olgerth Istaarn Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 They say Forgeworld sends you a lump of resin, and you carve it into the required shape. I don't know what I hate more: pewter or FW resin. Don't take me wrong, a well put together and painted FW model is a work of art. But they are a pain in the arse to build, convert and to a lesser extent care for. First, expect gates. Where the resin was pumped into the mold, now there is a gigantic lump sticking out of the piece. You have to cut it off carefully and then file the rest of it off ever so gently. Secondly, you have to pin (and therefore, drill) parts. But, resin is fragile and too much pressure could split it. They require a LOT of patience to work with. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/207634-forgeworld-resin-models/#findComment-2477115 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rider-75 Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 can't say i agree on the moulding problem. the pieces i've had have been excellent. especially the BT Ven Dread. only issue was that my 3 year old son snapped the banner pole.... :P Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/207634-forgeworld-resin-models/#findComment-2477241 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulweih Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 Hail brothers! Why the discontent?-Ale for all!Better now?Thought so ;) . FW Kits are a thing one could argue long about. There are those newer molds and pieces which are quite in good shape95% of the time and those older models and their moulds(thunderhawk for example) which tend to be way more difficult to work with. I have ordered 3 times the SW upgrade sprue over the years, two were alike, the first however was the best in all regards, so even what I said above does not have to happen, it just can. Friend of mine recieved two vultures of his LGS which they sent back and forth with FW due to wrong parts, bad parts etc. finally after 4 months. Ever since he's struggling to put them together to last him longer than a game or two. Personally I always order my stuff to the Games Day, as they have replacements with them, for when I have complaints about parts, saves time and nerves :drool: . Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/207634-forgeworld-resin-models/#findComment-2477262 Share on other sites More sharing options...
S. Bloodhowl Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 It really depends on the model on how fragile it is. I bought a PLague Ogryn for my Daemons and it recently had a 5 foot fall bouncing of a table and chair back before hitting the floor after the judger of the painting comp. accidentally dropped it. It survived with only a fleck of paint removed from it's tongue as proof to the event! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/207634-forgeworld-resin-models/#findComment-2477289 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kieran123 Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 I have 1 resin mini from forge world and the only real things you have to be careful with is using a mask when u r filing it and the thin say armour of a unit and stuff is not a good idea to pin in ;) Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/207634-forgeworld-resin-models/#findComment-2477300 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tsavong Lah Posted July 31, 2010 Author Share Posted July 31, 2010 Do the models really fall apart on their own, or is it just that they break easily when dropped? Seems like a bit of Gorilla Super Glue could solve that. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/207634-forgeworld-resin-models/#findComment-2477321 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulweih Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 A friend of mine has the great Khorne Deamon and said that, if the wings come of when dropped or fell over, its actually much better when they come apart on the glue-spot. If you glue it together with some monsterglue, it's likely that they would break in the middle of the wings for example and when that happens, the resin chips and breaks in nasty, near unrepairable ways, which is not good at all. The great Nurgle Blob for example is solid resin and for that much more durable. As said it depends on which model you want to purchase in the end, give us a hint or more and we'll be able to help better. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/207634-forgeworld-resin-models/#findComment-2477363 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tsavong Lah Posted July 31, 2010 Author Share Posted July 31, 2010 As said it depends on which model you want to purchase in the end, give us a hint or more and we'll be able to help better. Oh right. Mainly I'm looking at the SW Venerable Dreadnought body, just for some variety on the field. I'm also thinking about the Rhino doors/front cover, but I'm not as worried about those. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/207634-forgeworld-resin-models/#findComment-2477411 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rider-75 Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 they're all pretty sound. the only issue i hve had, as above, was my kid snapping the pole on the BT Ven Dread :( Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/207634-forgeworld-resin-models/#findComment-2477413 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulweih Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 I'm still waiting to get my own, but I guess as its a newer model, it should be fine. As for the doors, I have some and am happy with those. The only issue I had with one or two of them was that they were a little bent out of shape. Just put them in warm(not hot) water for a few moments and then start to gently bent them back to be straight. I fixed mine with the gw superglue and then primed the tanks, never had any problems of them falling off or somesuch. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/207634-forgeworld-resin-models/#findComment-2477629 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshall_Brant Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 Rule-o-thumb: give the model a simple green (or something of that nature) bath overnight then gently scrub the model with a tooth brush in running water. It's to remove the releasing lube they use to get the model out of the molds. Also remember when painting your dread: try to handle it as little as possible as your fingers will rub off the paint. Trust me I plastic glued a Death Korps auto cannon crew to tooth picks to prevent me from handling them too much. It turned out as I was painting I was also removing paint from the model <.< Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/207634-forgeworld-resin-models/#findComment-2477991 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tsavong Lah Posted August 1, 2010 Author Share Posted August 1, 2010 Also remember when painting your dread: try to handle it as little as possible as your fingers will rub off the paint. Trust me I plastic glued a Death Korps auto cannon crew to tooth picks to prevent me from handling them too much. It turned out as I was painting I was also removing paint from the model <.< Yikes. Is that still a problem after glosscoating it? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/207634-forgeworld-resin-models/#findComment-2478007 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshall_Brant Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 You mean clearcoat? If so than no. It's the painting stage that you have to worry. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/207634-forgeworld-resin-models/#findComment-2478066 Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeoWolf Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 As mentioned above, several things are of great import when working with resin. First, always clean the sprues. Even just a quick and easy (but gentle!) wash under running water with a bit of dish soap works. A bath of Simple green as Marshal Brant said is better. Take special care when clipping from the sprues, as pieces may snap if you put too much pressure on then with your fingers. *When filing, wear a mask!* Resin particles are finer than Plastic, and more importantly, your lungs cannot filter them out. They will just slowly build up and can cause health problems down the road. That said, anytime I need to file or drill into a resin piece, I wear a filter mask and I operate outdoors. Pinning is easy, but you must take your time. As stated already by others, too hard and you could break the piece. Before gluing, ALWAYS dry fit. Once you glue something, chances are you won't be able to get them apart easily. Just ask my Trygon... <_< In my opinion, GW glue just doesn't cut it anymore. I haven't tried the Thin Glue yet, but I use Gorilla Glue. The stuff is amazing! I put a Broodlord, a 10 man Death Guard unit, and the Commander of the Red Scorpions together in about an hour, no pinning needed. You have to be careful, this glue means business and will snare your fingers within seconds. *The other side of this is the fumes.* Make sure you have proper ventilation and take breaks. This works to make stronger joins and keeps you safe. I find painting to be similar to any other model, only with the knowledge that its more money in your hands. Just be careful with your models and they will hold fine. Haven't had any problems with them that I haven't caused. :D Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/207634-forgeworld-resin-models/#findComment-2478233 Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmurph Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 Resin has its problems (it is prone to snapping for example) but many issues can be avoided by proper prep. Make sure you properly clean the resin or paint will not adhere properly due to the mold release agents. Soap and water will only get you so far- rubbing alcohol is very good for removing the release agent (it is usually a silicone compund). As to the specific models, the SW vehicle kits are very good and require minimal trimming. I recently got my SW ven dread and the bannner pole had a broken spike that was easilly glued and a missing broken fang which a little GS fixed. Otherwise a fantastic model. Additionally, the resin they use is very light, which is great for transporting. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/207634-forgeworld-resin-models/#findComment-2478243 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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