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I need a thinner plastic cement...


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Hey all.

Since the first Marine I ever assembled, I've been using Testor's Model Cement, the stuff in the orange metal tube.

It's great, and works like a charm, but lately I've been wanting somehting with a little less viscosity. The thick Testor's stuff fills gaps nicely, and certainly holds well, but sometimes when I press two pieces together, I get a lot of spill out of the joins, no matter how little glue I use.

This isn't a huge issue on Marine bodies, say arm joins that are covered by a shoulderpad, but it's a major pain when assembling tanks or other vehicles. Cement will squish out of the long joins on Speeder and Rhino kits, forcing me to go back the next day and sand/file down the little solid glue bulges.

Is there an equivalent product out there that has a lower viscosity? I'm figuring small mistakes made with a thinner fluid would be less lumpy, and therefore easier to sand down without damaging the surrounding plastic.

 

I'd really like to find a product that I don't have to mail-order, and could pick up at Michael's or AC Moore, or even Home Depot or Lowe's.

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I never use cement from a tube. I use Tamiya Extra Thin or Testor's Liquid cement. The Tamiya stuff is really great for joints that are already pressed together. It flows into the gaps well. You can't gap fill with any liquid cements but thats what GS is for :P. You should be able to get the Testor's stuff at any good hobby store. I bought the Tamiya stuff at a specialty model store.

I've used revell contacta professional for years and i swear by it.

it also comes with a very fine pointed applaction tube which is perfect for small scale kits like the GW minis.

it's also fairly cheap and lasts for ages.

 

hope this helps

furyion

 

http://revellkits.com/images/products/VMM-T-RE-39604.jpg

I use this:

 

http://www.uhu.de/uploads/tx_uhuproducts/image_detail_45810_FL_plast17g_RD.png

 

It has a brush at the tip and you have to hold it for like...10 seconds? But it works really nice. I started susing the brand a million year ago, when I did train modeling.

Used the Testor's Model Master stuff last night. Awesome stuff. Binds near instantly, and is really easy to apply. You can just squeeze out a small bead, and spread it around with the tip of the applicator to avoid the "leak out" effect. Fumes aren't quite as brutal as the metal tube version, either. Not as "nice" as the blue tube citrus scent, but not immediately lung-crushing as the orange tube.
Fumes aren't quite as brutal as the metal tube version, either. Not as "nice" as the blue tube citrus scent, but not immediately lung-crushing as the orange tube.

:P

 

The other night, somehow I suffered some super-glue vapour to the eye. Boy did that sting! -> o_X :D

 

On the subject of using non-GW hobby supplies:

We use Selleys Aquadhere ~ PVA glue

Selleys Quick Fix ~ supa glue

 

and for basing supplies:

 

Woodland Scenics (they make supplies for model trains)

You get 500g (including container :P ) of, say, snow for $AU17.

GW gives you 15g for almost the same price as the Woodland scenics.... :ph34r: :geek: :lol:

 

You can get all different sized 'sand' too, and in a range of colours.

 

The same amount of 'water effects' is 5/8ths of GWs price.

 

The modelling supplies from GW are disgustingly priced. You can't call it anything else.

 

500/15 = 33.33 times the amount for a couple of dollars more?!

 

I just did my first Woodlandscenics snow base, and it is just as good as the GW one.

 

I think they prey on people's naivety. Customers could not imagine GW would rip them off on a convenience sale by such margins. But they do.

I've used revell contacta professional for years and i swear by it.

it also comes with a very fine pointed applaction tube which is perfect for small scale kits like the GW minis.

it's also fairly cheap and lasts for ages.

 

hope this helps

furyion

 

http://revellkits.com/images/products/VMM-T-RE-39604.jpg

 

 

I too use the Revell Contacta and it is in my opinion perfect for the job! The only downside can be the nozzle getting blocked, but a nice simple solution when this happens is to heat the metal nozzle with a lighter for a couple of seconds. Ensure the nozzle is pointed upwards, and I would highly recommend doing it outside. Also just be careful in general!!! But it does quickly unblock it and so far is the only way I've found of doing so.

 

Hope this helps,

Iarmereth

Revell Contacta professional I think is the best you can purchase for it's cost, and container.

 

Pros:

 

Fine needle for precise application

Quite cheap to purchase online

Lasts longer because you can be a lot more minimalistic in the amount of it you use, therefore saving wasted glue.

 

Cons:

 

I've had problems with the needle getting clogged with Glue, although it's not a permament problem, something fine will be needed just in case it does get clogged, but generally, it doesn't get clogged if your careful enough and make sure to wipe away excess plastic glue from the end of the nozzle. To be safe, I'd make sure you have a fine needle at hand to poke through the nozzle in case it does get clogged, otherwise you may find you won't get any glue out until you do. Or, you could poke the fine object through the needle after each use, in order to make sure glue does not set inside the nozzle.

Revell Contacta professional I think is the best you can purchase for it's cost, and container.

 

Pros:

 

Fine needle for precise application

Quite cheap to purchase online

Lasts longer because you can be a lot more minimalistic in the amount of it you use, therefore saving wasted glue.

 

Cons:

 

I've had problems with the needle getting clogged with Glue, although it's not a permament problem, something fine will be needed just in case it does get clogged, but generally, it doesn't get clogged if your careful enough and make sure to wipe away excess plastic glue from the end of the nozzle. To be safe, I'd make sure you have a fine needle at hand to poke through the nozzle in case it does get clogged, otherwise you may find you won't get any glue out until you do. Or, you could poke the fine object through the needle after each use, in order to make sure glue does not set inside the nozzle.

 

Another easy method of unclogging the needle is to just hold the needle in the flame of a lighter or something similair. Since the needle is made out of metal it doesn't melt and the needle will be nice and clean from the inside afterwards.

Just make sure not to sniff too much of the vapors that get produced :)

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