Shoulder Pad transfers/decals

[ravenguard2010]

I had a look in the tutorials to see if I could find any help, but either I've overlooked it or it's not there. I've always struggled to put shoulder pad transfers on without there being a weird part that didn't sit down properly against the pad. I bought the new Forge World Raven Guard transfers earlier and ruined one messing with it to get it to look right... Thing is, they weren't cheap at all, so I do not want to mess any more up.

 

Does anyone else struggle with this? And what do you do about it? I've just read an article that advocates cutting the decal to allow it to sit properly and then painting it to hide the line, I hope I don't have to do that, can't see it looking particularly nice.

 

Thanks

 

Rob

[winterdyne]

It depends on the decal - sometimes you may need to slice them, but for raven guard you can get around this by correctly cutting the decal in the first place. The following rules of thumb should apply:

 

1) Cut as close as possible to the printed design. Even if the film is pre-cut, it's a good idea to trim it back. On raven guard you can put nicks with a razor blade in between the feathers on the wings, which will help the overall design conform to the curved surface.

 

2) Slide on, don't float off: You want to moisten (see later) the decal till the transfer itself starts to slide loose - then put the backing paper just about where you want the transfer and with a suitable tool slide the decal off the backing paper and onto your prepared surface. I use a sharpened cocktail stick - use the edge, not the point, it'll flex and help avoid ripping the decal.

 

3) Microsol and Microset are your friends. Prepare the surface by glossing, and allowing it to dry fully. This helps the decal sit flush against the model and stops air getting trapped under it, which causes the film to be visible on the model. GW and FW have some awful examples of this in White Dwarf and on the forgeworld website. It's just lazy, and it annoys me. Once glossed, immediately before setting on the decal (while it's soaking) brush a little microsol on to the surface of the model.

 

4) Don't soak it - Put the decal in water for around 15 - 20 seconds, no more. Once the backing paper is wet through the adhesive between the paper and the film will start to disolve. At this point take the decal out and sit it on some not-to-fluffy tissue (napkin, not loo roll). This will remove the excess water, but the decal will still be loosening. Test it GENTLY now and then with your applicator (eg cocktail stick) to see if it moves. When it does, it's ready.

 

5) Pull, don't push: Once the decal is in place on the model you have very little time to get it in the right place. Takes practice. You may be able to get a soft brush under it to lift it (apply a little water if you have to). Adjust position by pulling, not pushing - that'd just fold the decal up.

 

6) Once you're happy with position, gently press with tissue to bed it down and remove excess fluid. Allow to dry a bit, then brush with Micro Set. This softens the film and will help you bed the decal down. Stipple it on with a soft brush.

 

7) Topcoat! Decals are fragile as hell, and matt varnish won't protect them. Put a layer of gloss over them before flat coating once it's all dry.

[Ming]

There are some great tutorials also on u-tube. There are some where the decal in transferred onto still wet clear painted on acrylic. After transferred, painted over with more clear acrylic. Expert model builders have all sorts of techniques for transfers. Choose one, try it, see if it works well for you, then do the rest.

[winterdyne]

There are some great tutorials also on u-tube. There are some where the decal in transferred onto still wet clear painted on acrylic. After transferred, painted over with more clear acrylic. Expert model builders have all sorts of techniques for transfers. Choose one, try it, see if it works well for you, then do the rest.

 

You can do the above trick with Future Floor Polish (Klear in the UK). Works pretty well, but doesn't hide the thickness of the decal, so sometimes you can get an unsightly 'step' around the decal if the film is thick (which some home-printing decal film is). Generally you'll get a better result using the setting solutions.

[ravenguard2010]

Ok, thanks guys.. I'll experiment then, hopefully I'll get a method that works quickly, I don't want to ruin anymore.

 

Winterdyne, on an unrelate note, I just checked out your stuff on cool mini, how long have you been painting man? got some serious skills.

[Hemal]

Using matt flow/glazing agent is actually a pretty good way of getting a good surface for decals if you don't wnat to go the gloss route - painting a thinend coat of this on a flat armoured area won't impact the colour any - as it is desigend to be mixed with acrylic paints anyway, but it will provide an even surfcae (not as smooth as gloss, but certainly none to shabby. I use Decalfix and used some decals on epic sclaed Titan banners - and TBH they look almost integral to the banner - no unsightly edge or anything which looks out of place.

[Marneus_Maestro038]

Thanks alot, this is most helpful :)