Shadow Captain Corveus Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 Every good painter knows that it's much easier to paint your Space Marine well if you leave the bolter and backpack off, paint the Marine and then attach the painted accessories afterwards. I have often spent almost as much time painting bolters and backpacks as the Marine itself despite how much less detail there is on them to paint. These pieces are so small that they need to be painted in 2 parts for each coat considering a sizeable chunk is under your fingers. So here is my question: How do you paint your bolters and backpacks quickly, getting around this problem? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/212887-the-fiddly-bits/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
snorkle Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 stick a toothpick in the drilled barrel Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/212887-the-fiddly-bits/#findComment-2532821 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Razblood Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 Carefully drill into the backpack just above the attach point, stick a toothpick in. Jobs a good'un :lol: Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/212887-the-fiddly-bits/#findComment-2532834 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myxx Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 Quickshade the whole mother Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/212887-the-fiddly-bits/#findComment-2532872 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firepower Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 I go a bit further and take emptied sprue segments (with lots of odds n' ends poking out every which way) and put a little blob of greenstuff between the tips and my heads, shoulder pads (for ease of free-handing insignias), and bolters. I leave the backpacks on assuming that test fitting went well: some shoulders/arms will make it hard to sneak in the shoulder plate between the backpack and the arm, and on those the packs are left off until finished. It makes for a nice assembly line, having 5 heads/shoulders/guns on one little segment of plastic. Greenstuff normally dries hard enough to withstand pressure from basic painting and loose enough to pop right off when I'm done. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/212887-the-fiddly-bits/#findComment-2533154 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemal Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 I have a bag of old flying stands I use for teh same job - I use greenstuff or superglue to attach the component - normally where it will be glued to the rest of teh model. Where the join is not going to be invisible - I have to glue on the part, sand the two parts close, smooth dwn and then take apart (usually using a pin). The sprue method is the same, but works better as indicated for assembly lines - however as I am ony ever painting "good" standard models i.e. every model I paint as if I was entering GD - including plastic RnF which is why my army is tiny (too OCD? Hell yeah!), access to teh different components is requried. I do glue the gun to an arm though as then there is a more to work with in terms of model mass, and gluing guns to hands often overspills poly cement or superglue.. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/212887-the-fiddly-bits/#findComment-2533291 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow Captain Corveus Posted October 11, 2010 Author Share Posted October 11, 2010 stick a toothpick in the drilled barrel Exactly how big are your toothpicks?! Mine certainly couldn't fit into something that small! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/212887-the-fiddly-bits/#findComment-2533292 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firepower Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 The sprue method is the same, but works better as indicated for assembly lines - however as I am ony ever painting "good" standard models i.e. every model I paint as if I was entering GD I'll have you know I paint my boys to a pretty high standard, too, thank you very much :cuss . It's not quality versus quantity, it's quality in quantity :P . I'm a bit curious about the toothpick trick too, I don't think any of my drill bits could punch a big enough hole for that. Plus, some bits simply aren't big/thick/wide enough for it, like bolters I would imagine. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/212887-the-fiddly-bits/#findComment-2534033 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shas'o R'Vre Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 How do you paint your bolters and backpacks quickly, getting around this problem? Backpacks recently I've been doing with bluetack-on-a-stick on the section of the backpack that is glued to the Marine, but next box I'm going with the sprue technique! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/212887-the-fiddly-bits/#findComment-2534449 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Bog Posted October 13, 2010 Share Posted October 13, 2010 I use a lighter to heat the tip of a needle, which I then gently insert in to an easily hidden part of the component I'm painting. So for a backpack it'll be just above the hole where the marine's back extrusion goes in to. I can also prime these parts a different colour if I want to. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/212887-the-fiddly-bits/#findComment-2535064 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liath Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 I drill holes in "hidden" parts, like gun barrel (do not glue in here), backpack joint, wrists, neck, etc. and glue some paper clips in it. I do that before priming. You can then handle them by the paper clip part (which can be folded to make a kind of handle). When you're done with painting, just cut the paper clip as close as possible to the model. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/212887-the-fiddly-bits/#findComment-2583775 Share on other sites More sharing options...
MagicMan Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 I use a lighter to heat the tip of a needle.... Totally thought this was going in a completely different direction. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/212887-the-fiddly-bits/#findComment-2584019 Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Normish Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 I glue them on first, then paint them as I would anything else. Doesn't produce the best results, but they're tabletop-quality. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/212887-the-fiddly-bits/#findComment-2584171 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zincite Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 I just leave some of the sprue around them, then when done cut it off and paint where the sprue was :( Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/212887-the-fiddly-bits/#findComment-2654488 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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