Citadel Realm of battle board.

[Fire Lord Captain]

Just bought the RoB board from Wayland Games (£125), so before it arrives I am wondering how people have gone about "decorating" it. I imagine its gonna cost me an arm and a leg in flock and sand...

Has anyone else got one and if so how did you go about making it look good? Pics and/or tutorials would be awesome!

 

Thanks in advance.

[Valkyrion]

I don't have one, but you could get away without flock as it is already textured and will stand having just a drybrush over it.

I suppose it depends how you want it.

 

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/...005&start=1

[Fire Lord Captain]

Aah I didn't realise it was so well textured. Thanks for the link.

[winterdyne]

It's not that well textured. You'll want to put sand on it.

 

I've painted and flocked mine up into a semi-wasteland sort of theme - I wanted to be able to use it alongside some urban terrain I'm making as well as for WFB.

 

I went to B&Q and got the following (Dulux) paints:

 

Rum Caramel 2, 3, 5

Night Jewels 2, 4.

 

Paint was done as follows - spray prime with black, just the edges and cliffs and exposed stone.

Drybrush the RC2 on the cliffs and paint it on everything else.

NJ 2 and 4 onto the cliffs.

Drybrush RC 3 onto everything else (try to avoid the skulls etc)

Drybrysh RC 5 onto pretty much everything (trying to avoid the skulls).

 

Skulls were painted black, then Khemri brown before highlighting up as normal (thru Kommando khaki to off-white is my usual recipe). This is the bit that drives you loopy.

 

Then I just added the same static grass I use on my bases and some clump foliage.

 

Note this isn't the 'best' way of texturing or the most realistic, but it allows my board to blend in a bit better with the uses I have in mind for it.

[madscuzzy]

Whether or not you wish to sand or flock it is up to you. The basic texture is pretty decent for the most part, and flocking and sanding is just personalization on your part.

 

One thing to note however, is that the slopes are, like all plastic, pretty smooth, so there will be instances that your models may slide down as you are playing. Sanding the slopes do give it some grit and texture to help keep models sliding off, so you may want to look into that if it bothers you...:lol:

 

The clips are a nightmare to put together when you wish to play, and may be be off without, although this means that the board pieces may slide. Either way, you would still need a 6x4 board or table to place it upon. If you can install a frame or edges of sorts, you can shift it safely around like a jigsaw without the clips.

[Red Fury]

If I was going to spend all that money on one of these boards, I think I'd have this guy finish it up for me. Here is one of the boards he has painted and flocked: http://terranscapes.com/custom/customgalle...s-withgrass.php

 

There is another one done in a snow theme too. He did some others in the past and has videos on youtube talking about technique etc. He is in the states so you probably won't want to go through all the shipping stuff to go with him, but I though it might give you some inspiration anyway.

 

-Fury

[Fire Lord Captain]

Thanks for all the tips and advice, It gets delivered in an hour or so, so might stick some pictures up for other peoples reference.

 

What size paint tubs did you buy Winterdyne? I'm going to paint and flock my board in a standard grass setting, so i hope Dulux do a nice grass green :(

 

I wish my board will look that good Red Fury, but i doubt it.

 

I was planning on getting some MDF slightly larger than 6'x4' and put a "frame" around it like you suggested Mad Scuzzy instead of messing around with the clips.

[winterdyne]

1 litre of the Rum Caramel 2, 250mls of everything else. And I still have 90% of it left, which is handy as I've been working on some terrain, and will be rebasing my old woods / trees to match the new board.

 

Pics of what I did:

http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/images/board1.jpg

http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/images/board2.jpg

http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/images/board3.jpg

 

Damn, it's hard to photograph.

 

Ah, technique wise, don't drybrush up to the very edges of the sections - this will highlight the edge and look worse than having the flat dark shade. I had to go back and stipple the dark onto a few of the sections once I noticed this was happening. This also makes repairing chips (WILL HAPPEN) easier - just a dab of the brown paint covers the minor chips, and it's easy enough to PVA some more sand on if it's too much of a problem. The fit into the bag is so tight that varnishing won't help protect against this (and you won't get a decent packing material around it either). You can layer some foam sheet or bubble wrap between the sections though.

 

 

Don't paint it green under the grass - this looks wrong (trust me). If you want to do a full grass board you'll need the fine turf flock as well - atenociti's workshop (erm there's a link off my blog) has an *excellent* groundwork tutorial - do it their way, it looks beautiful. Don't add long grasses much more than about 1" away from the cliff sides (and not on the tops) though - it'll just block you from putting scatter terrain down.

[Fire Lord Captain]

Wow that looks awesome!

I've gone and bought a load of fine flock from my local hobby store and some choc chip paint from Crown with dries a light brown almost mud colour which will be perfect. I understand what you are saying about the green base paint wouldnt work (grass grows from soil ;)).

 

Any ideas on how to make the uncovered skulls look like they are in some wet mud? How would some PVA mixed with some green paint/ink look? would it dry glossy?

 

I'm going to have an experiment tonight, after i make tea for the wife like a good husband should before he plays with his toy soldiers.

[winterdyne]

Depends. If you want the mud to be deep, you'll need to part fill the skulls (after painting, you must also varnish) with some Woodland Scenics realistic water. You have to varnish as the realistic water will leech pigment if you don't. Once you've got the depth about right you can tint the surface to make it look like mud by mixing Klear floor polish (Future to the yanks) with some brown ink (devlan mud will do). Don't go overboard - you can build up the tone with multiple layers - and just brush it over the cured water.

 

PVA actually dries fairly matte, so avoid it for mud effects unless you're adding a gloss as well. Klear is my gloss of choice as it's dirt cheap, really super glossy, very hard wearing, can be airbrushed or hand brushed, self levels and is generally just magic in a bottle. You wants it my precious.

 

Incidentally, I'm not joking when I say the skulls will drive you nuts - the moulding on them is rather poor, and they catch the PVA and then sand easily so if you're a bit of perfectionist, you'll end up having to hand-highlight brows and noses and dot in black to tidy them up. Just drybrushing them can look really rough.

[Red Fury]

Wow, that looks really great Winterdyne!