Epic Warlord Dread Conversion

[Retrograde]

@Hemal: Yeeeah Boiee!! I managed to get a few bits from the operation dreadnought expansion from ebay including all 3 beamers. One is earmarked for my master of the forge so the other 2 might very well get used on the raider. The space crusade meltas are pretty nice as well.

 

@Rogue Trader Voril: I always use some sort of oil to stop things sticking when I'm making the molds or pressings from them. Another thing you have to do when using milliput is watch for things that will stop the model from coming out of the mold easily. Things like rivets are usually fine but if you're doing a large piece with rivets facing out different ways they will act to pin the model into the mold. It is possible to remove bits from the molds before they cure by very slightly bending the mold outwards and carefully removing the model piece with tweezers or something. When the piece is out you can bend the mold back into place. It's not advisable but does help sometimes.

 

I've decided to post a pic of the milliput molds. If it is against B&C rules I'll take it down. But I can see why GW wouldn't be too bothered about this, mass production is out of the question and the result is never going to equal the real thing.

 

http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/6773/sdc10782h.jpg

 

This isn't a 2 part mold. Both sides are done separately and then tidied up and joined once cured. The front side is also an example of a mold where I removed the model early. The feet flare out and would've stopped the model being removed from fully cured milliput.

 

Notice the 3D optical illusion? That comes in very handy as it allows you to check to quality of the molding before you even make a pressing.

[Hemal]

Its a good way of getting particulare features - liek front plates, helmets etc, but certainly not a good way to get whole models as you have indicated.

[Solid Zaku]

I love those illusions. Your dread is a brilliant conversion, but that's nothing you haven't heard before. I'm a tad worried about the sculpts, however. Something about them seems rough, like the molds aren't entirely flat in the end...but I'm not sure, it could be any number of factors from a blurry shot to a bad screen. What do you think? Do they seem a bit...unsmooth?

[Rogue Trader Voril]

Cool. Thanks, I think I got it now.

[Retrograde]

@Solid Zaku: Yeah the molds aren't perfect but that's mostly down to me rushing the job and removing the pieces early. Another thing to watch out for is folds in the green stuff before you press it into the mold. It will create seams in the finish.

 

Ok so yesterday stumbled upon a pic from imperial armour 9 of a new heresy era termy: http://yfrog.com/elheresytermiej

 

It's been said it's a conversion so I thought I'd try to make my own:

 

 

http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/3044/sdc10814v.jpg

 

 

I didn't copy the helmet exactly and it still needs tidying up and studding but for a first attempt I'm quite pleased with it.

[Retrograde]

Hi all, a quick update on the terminator helmet

 

http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/8522/sdc10825or.jpg

 

I couldn't resist giving it an undercoat and wash to see how the details tie in. I'm pretty happy with the result :lol:

 

I not sure whether to style the rest of the suit in the customary studs and trim heresy style or go with something a little different. Something along the lines of a beetle-back termie maybe.

[Doghouse]

Looks really good mate, the grill on the helm and sloped brow gives it a more aggressive profile.

[Iacton Qruze]

Awesome stuff. I'm keeping an eye on this thread. Might have to steal that Termie head.

[Retrograde]

@Doghouse: Yeah it's definitely a meaner look, almost chaotic. I'll have to go the whole way and try one with tusks at some point.

 

@Iacton Qruze: Cheers Iacton :) I'm going away for a week but when I get back I'm gonna get that dread undercoated and continue with the terminator.

 

If anyone has any views and ideas about the raider/termie conversions or what to use as the exhausts on the dread please post them. It all helps and inspires :lol:

[Retrograde]

Hi all

 

http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/6070/sdc10865.jpg

 

I really liked the classic scouts so I thought I'd try and make an updated version.

 

Thanks for looking

[Timboli]

the scout is awesome!

really looks like the old one but even better, nice conversion you did there :lol:

are you planning to add more of these cool scouts?

[Natanael]

Yep, the scout really is awesome.

 

- Natanael

[Retrograde]

Cheers guys

 

This is the first model I've ever drilled and pinned properly and I really enjoyed the process. I'll be making at least 4 more of them with slight variations. The old scouts all have the same robert de niro 'taxi driver' head but I'll convert a couple more using rebreathers and visors. The heavy weapon guy will probably be armed with the appropriate shoulder mounted heavy bolter or an RTB01 missle launcher. Time will tell :D

[Dark Sensei]

That termi head is friggin great !

CTIS = Consider That Idea Stolen :P

 

DS

[tiny sam]

I really liked the classic scouts so I thought I'd try and make an updated version.

 

Thanks for looking

 

Consider it a succes!

[malika666]

Holy crap! Now those are some kick ass models! That must be the coolest dread ever!

[Retrograde]

Second scout WIP

 

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/8343/sdc10871t.jpg

 

:)

[Capt. Kenaz]

Where did you get the heads for your scouts? I am especially interested in the one with the respirator?

[Timboli]

;)

the second one is even cooler than the first! awesome job you did there

cant wait to see the rest of the squad :lol:

[Retrograde]

@Capt. Kenaz: Both heads are from the original scout plastics and I added the respirator. I got it from one of chapterhouse's heresy helmets. I might still make a small cast of it for some of the other scouts and maybe a unique mk4 maximus variant.

 

 

@Timboli: Thanks a lot Timboli. It's probably gonna be a powerfisted sarge next. I wouldn't usually use a powerfist on a scout because I don't really see it tying in with the whole stealth thing. The one I've got in mind though, I think it looks to good not to use.

[Retrograde]

Hi all

 

I've been inactive for some time due to real life but here's my rough concept for a scout in full carapace armour.

 

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/4996/sdc11108k.jpg

 

I've used rogue trader beakie shoulderpads as well as the helmet, although this pic doesn't really show it. I took the pic to photochop the mask from the second head to the first but now I can't find my camera.

 

I've also used an old umbra pattern bolter mag on the new umbra pistol. It looks nice but you'll have to take my word for it :wacko:

I still have to add some armour to the front of his thighs.

 

Thanks for looking :D

[Retrograde]

Greetings Brothers

 

I've decided to stop messing around with all the intricate conversions and actually start painting. Here's my first proper marine in probably a decade. Brother Aldred, 2nd Cohort, Archangels Legion.

 

http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/3397/sdcx2x.jpg

 

Still very much a WIP but I'm enjoying learning how to paint properly. The eventual scheme will be white.

 

Cheers

[Doghouse]

Great work on the scout mate, the carapace version looks really nice. The marine is looking brilliant as well.

[Retrograde]

Thanks a lot Doghouse :tu:

 

It's going to take a bit of experimentation to get the white done well. I don't want to have to mix paints and blending is beyond me at the moment. So here's the plan:

 

Next, watered down black wash

 

Re-cover with astronomicon grey

 

Watered down pure white for a slightly patchy white finish

 

Final highlights in pure white

 

 

Does this sound right? As I said I have very little painting experience

[Doghouse]

Sounds good mate.

 

The best way I find to do white is that it is all about the base coat but this is all about mixing the paint here.

 

For a cold white use space wolves grey, for a warm white use bleached bone and for a hard white use astronomican grey.

 

Basically what you do base coat the model in the colour that will give you the result that you want from above. Then you go over this with a fifty fifty mix of this with skull white leaving the basecoat in the recesses.

 

You can then either highlight with skull white there and then or add a further coat of the base coat and white but a seventy five twenty five mix, so three blobs of space wolves grey to one blob of skull white for example, then highlight with skull white.

 

If you find that there is too much of a stark gradient between the main colour and the highlight then waht you can do is go over the model (not recesses or undersides like the inner leg or under arm) with a watered down skull white making sure that it doesn't settle in puddles or in the recesses. As long as you keep it extremely watered down you can add additional layers once the base coat is dry. The key to white is layering.

 

For shading you can use watered down badab black in the recesses and underside of areas on the model to create shadow.

 

Bit long winded but I hope that helps mate. :tu: