Brother Aiwass Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 I tried and... http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/4403/pict0152z.jpg http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/290/pict01560.jpg http://img816.imageshack.us/img816/2666/pict01540.jpg http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/8256/pict0159i.jpg I'm disapointed, any tips on 'how to' with only GW paints? Thanks in advance! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/215813-weathering-a-rhino-holy/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyaenidae Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 Paint the chipped areas black first, then boltgun metal, leaving the edges black. Highlight the edges of the chipped paint. If you can get some, weathering powder over the metal areas help a lot too. Here's an example, one of my Rhino's. Hope this helps, man. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/215813-weathering-a-rhino-holy/#findComment-2572301 Share on other sites More sharing options...
F. A. Chapter Master Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 your methode isn't off but less is more. try using pic of real tanks as heck a reference. Keep it up Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/215813-weathering-a-rhino-holy/#findComment-2572303 Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterdyne Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 With weathering, less is usually more. Chipping should be sparing, and applied only to high-wear areas and edges. I use a small piece of sponge dipped in boltgun metal and dabbed dry for most chipping, and simple drybrushes of chaos black for scorching. Finish up with a drybrush / stipple of some muddy colour (I use VMC Leather brown here) to grub it up some at the bottom. http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/images/commissions/ultramarines1/rhino_1024.jpg Edit: Heh, ninja'd on the less is more... Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/215813-weathering-a-rhino-holy/#findComment-2572305 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Aiwass Posted November 25, 2010 Author Share Posted November 25, 2010 Wow, amazing quick replies. Two different methods but both with excellent outcomes! I must have give a try to both, hopefully tomorrow, thank you all for the feedback B) Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/215813-weathering-a-rhino-holy/#findComment-2572312 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warsmith Aznable Posted November 26, 2010 Share Posted November 26, 2010 I think your model would benefit from more color on the details, too. For instance, the twin-linked Bolters are the same blue as the Rhino all over. So is the jerrycan on the back. EDIT: I looked at your WIP log, and you obviously are more advanced than I am. Were you doing the weathering before finishing the detailing? I often think of that as something that is done after, but I have never tried damage as "thorough" as this. What I meant to say in the original, unedited post, was that I think your weathering, if dialed back a notch, wouldn't look as bad as you apparently think it does if the other details were added. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/215813-weathering-a-rhino-holy/#findComment-2572393 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Aiwass Posted November 26, 2010 Author Share Posted November 26, 2010 Yes, usually I do first the 'rough' work, then add the details. I hope you're right and when finished it looks better! Try to advance a little and post some results soon, also a new try to weathering in other rhino with the above methods :huh: Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/215813-weathering-a-rhino-holy/#findComment-2572396 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souitenesse Posted November 26, 2010 Share Posted November 26, 2010 I'm experiencing the same trouble but with a Black Templars Predator... Problem is, on black all the "trompe l'oeil" effects can't be applied, like blacklining the weathering to give it some realistic shade/layer effect. I do the black edge in white, as it shows a little more detail, but it's still unconvincing. Same goes for mud, scorched brown turns red-ish when applied on black, it's kinda hard...and impossible to find a good weathered BT, Iron Hand or Raven Guard vehicle around the internet ;) Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/215813-weathering-a-rhino-holy/#findComment-2572516 Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterdyne Posted November 26, 2010 Share Posted November 26, 2010 Scorched brown is NOT a good mud colour. Try drybrushing graveyard earth then kommando khaki then very lightly deneb stone. Tromp l'oeil chipping on black relies on two things - the highlight under the chip and a lesser highlight above it, which is best gained by your black actually being a very very dark grey smoothly blended to pure black in shadow. To avoid the blending, or in situations where you're already working on a light area and need the chips to have more definition, try painting the chip with codex grey/black mix (just a touch darker than codex grey), then putting a fortress grey line at the bottom of it, then blacking the middle of the chip/scratch. This gives the effect of puckering the paintwork out from the chip. Remember that to keep it looking black you need the highlights to be thin and very sharp. Any 'greyness' can be smoothed away with black glazes for a clean look or by dusting the whole model (either drybrush or airbrush). That's pretty much the technique on this dreadnought's power fist.: http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/images/commissions/ultramarines2/chap_dread_done1.jpg Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/215813-weathering-a-rhino-holy/#findComment-2572590 Share on other sites More sharing options...
zxyogi Posted November 26, 2010 Share Posted November 26, 2010 I'm experiencing the same trouble but with a Black Templars Predator...Problem is, on black all the "trompe l'oeil" effects can't be applied, like blacklining the weathering to give it some realistic shade/layer effect. I do the black edge in white, as it shows a little more detail, but it's still unconvincing. Same goes for mud, scorched brown turns red-ish when applied on black, it's kinda hard...and impossible to find a good weathered BT, Iron Hand or Raven Guard vehicle around the internet :( Agree with Winterdyne here!!......Excellent Dread by the way!!!!! But you could also darken you boltgun metal with black and use that as your base layer for your scratch and work outwards with lighter boltgun metal leaving the darker paint on the edges and as you go to the middle of the scratch use something like chainmail metal for the shinier raised part/exposed part of the battle damage...wear and tear. Hope that makes sense....... :huh: Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/215813-weathering-a-rhino-holy/#findComment-2572622 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Aiwass Posted November 26, 2010 Author Share Posted November 26, 2010 There are very nice and awesome models! Zxyogi, your technique is also very interesting too... Wondering how mix all of those. Or I'm better stickin with one? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/215813-weathering-a-rhino-holy/#findComment-2572644 Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr. dwarf Posted November 26, 2010 Share Posted November 26, 2010 With weathering, less is usually more. Chipping should be sparing, and applied only to high-wear areas and edges. I use a small piece of sponge dipped in boltgun metal and dabbed dry for most chipping, and simple drybrushes of chaos black for scorching. Finish up with a drybrush / stipple of some muddy colour (I use VMC Leather brown here) to grub it up some at the bottom. http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/images/commissions/ultramarines1/rhino_1024.jpg Edit: Heh, ninja'd on the less is more... A bit off topic, but I've been meaning to ask this since the first time I saw this rhino; where do you get your scale ammo crates, drums, and accessorries of the like? Is that tamyia stuff?? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/215813-weathering-a-rhino-holy/#findComment-2572725 Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterdyne Posted November 26, 2010 Share Posted November 26, 2010 On this one all the stuff is off the old IG vehicle accessories sprue. I think the tow cable is from a vindi... the net I nicked off a mate, and the leaves are from atenociti's workshop. Tamiya 1/35 and 1/48 jerry can and barrel kits are handy now and then. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/215813-weathering-a-rhino-holy/#findComment-2572728 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Aiwass Posted November 26, 2010 Author Share Posted November 26, 2010 Here is my progress so far: http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/642/pict0015nq.jpg From left to right my takes on... Zxyogi: Not sure about the results, maybe I need to go with a darker metal basecoat. I used 50% chaos black and 50% boltgun metal. Lights with chainmail. Ravenous (from Warseer): The sponge wasn't very good, so the outcome isn't, but it's more or less the same technique than the 1000heathens one. I need to improve that. 1000heathens: The best outcome imho, due the contrast, but also implies that I must hightlight the whole rhino. Maybe a mix of this with Ravenous' method can work. Spongebob: Another good result, but i think that can get better with a darker grey instead of codex grey. And, more or less, Winterdyne's method: http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/7920/pict0098f.jpg Still undecided, but advancing a little, thank you all! :) EDIT: BTW, I started a 'weathering for noobs' tutorial here. C&C very welcome. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/215813-weathering-a-rhino-holy/#findComment-2572765 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Aiwass Posted November 26, 2010 Author Share Posted November 26, 2010 Update: http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/9775/pict00340.jpg http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/6410/pict0030r0.jpg http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/9117/pict0031o0.jpg http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/8448/pict0033rr.jpg http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/880/pict0032t.jpg The result is not what I was aiming, but anyways I like how it's going. I have two more rhinos to "update" so I want to go with a one more hardcore mode on one of them. Still WIP of course. Any thoughts? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/215813-weathering-a-rhino-holy/#findComment-2572960 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ecritter Posted November 26, 2010 Share Posted November 26, 2010 Looks good, but I think its a bit beyond weathering at this point .... its rusted and about to fall apart. Maybe a bit less would be better. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/215813-weathering-a-rhino-holy/#findComment-2572966 Share on other sites More sharing options...
CosmicCreations Posted November 26, 2010 Share Posted November 26, 2010 I'll be honest and say that personally it looks a little worse than it did originally.. Orginally it looked scratched and damaged, but now just as Ecritter put it, it looks too rusted and about to fall into pieces. Still go for the less is more option, not huge patches of rust and metal :), small scratches and chips, simple as. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/215813-weathering-a-rhino-holy/#findComment-2572993 Share on other sites More sharing options...
CommissarStone Posted November 26, 2010 Share Posted November 26, 2010 Having been formerly a mechanized infantryman assigned to an armor company, even when you're in the field training constantly (this was long before the war) the amount of pain chipping is minimal... Certainly, there are never parts of the vehicle that are chipped so that an area bigger than a man's torso is exposed down to the bare metal. Even in Baghdad (where I've been twice, though not as an infantryman anymore), the amount of chipping and weathering on vehicles is minor. Part of everyday maintenance is keeping the vehicles clean, removing large quantities of dirt, etc., and repainting chipped areas when needed. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/215813-weathering-a-rhino-holy/#findComment-2573026 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Aiwass Posted November 26, 2010 Author Share Posted November 26, 2010 Thanks a lot for the feedback! :) I know that is a bit too much, but when I've worked in the above described methods, I found this: http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.p...howtopic=203229 and, oh well, you know... I got carried away :D Anyways, good to know actual stuff about tank chipping. The next rhino would have less rust and damage ^_^ Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/215813-weathering-a-rhino-holy/#findComment-2573092 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ecritter Posted November 26, 2010 Share Posted November 26, 2010 It does look good, don't get me wrong, its just a bit overboard. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/215813-weathering-a-rhino-holy/#findComment-2573106 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Aiwass Posted November 27, 2010 Author Share Posted November 27, 2010 I don't :sweat: I know what you mean. Next time I'll give a try with less radical methods, but I'm also happy with that rusty boy, is my 3rd tank painted ever and looks better than the rest of my army :lol: Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/215813-weathering-a-rhino-holy/#findComment-2573432 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyaenidae Posted November 27, 2010 Share Posted November 27, 2010 I have a decent recipe for rust, if you'd like. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/215813-weathering-a-rhino-holy/#findComment-2573457 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Aiwass Posted November 27, 2010 Author Share Posted November 27, 2010 Please, that would be very nice :lol: Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/215813-weathering-a-rhino-holy/#findComment-2573466 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyaenidae Posted November 27, 2010 Share Posted November 27, 2010 Just follow the link in my sig, and scroll down to Post #17. Just remember to be gentle with the brush, and it works great. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/215813-weathering-a-rhino-holy/#findComment-2573470 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q0rbin Posted November 27, 2010 Share Posted November 27, 2010 Ok, here's my tip, when you do chipping and weathering damages use a sponge, don't use metallic to the damages, use some sort of grey/brown/black. Your rhino looks good but it looks like more like a renegade rhino. I play chaos and I use a brownblackish paint to make my damages. And don't forget that the sun will fall on the same side on the edges. And if you will do your vehicles damaged I think that you should do your marines with damages also. http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t20/C0rbin/Foto0451.jpg http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t20/C0rbin/Foto0448.jpg Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/215813-weathering-a-rhino-holy/#findComment-2573471 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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