Issues with white primer

[Firepower]

So, a few times I've tried GW's white spray primer. When I have used it, the primer created a sort of gritty look, even with thorough shaking of the can and proper temperature/humidity/ventilation. I did not wash the models prior to priming, but I dunno if that's enough to be responsible.

 

When painting them, colors frequently came out very splotchy. I tried watering down the paints, but even then it was nearly impossible to get an even shade of any one color without roughly 4 coats or so. The only thing that did cooperate were washes.

 

Later on, when I tried to strip the models, the primer was very, very uncooperative. I use Castrol Super Clean degreaser, and soaked the models for anywhere from a day to weeks with no difference in results. It does fine at stripping black, though frequently leaves the model "stained" black, meaning it seems to permeate the plastic or its coating, but doesnt remain in a visible layer. The white, however, refused to come off at all without very direct and deliberate scraping: far more than could be managed even with a very rough brushing by a tooothbrush with firm bristles.

 

Any suggestions?

[Tanhausen]

Regarding the gritty aspect of the primer... maybe you are too close or too distant to the model. I usually spray some 30 cm away from the miniature, both in black or white and have no problems.

 

For stripping, I use Isopropylic Alcohol and it works perfect with paint and decent with primer.

 

As for painting...that's the etternal struggle!

 

Hope it helps!

[Shortsonfire79]

Mate. I had the same problem with 70 something tyranids... I was pissed. I gave GW a call. And they couldn't help me. The man said that GW couldn't help me. The best he could do was replace my 2 cans of spray (both were like that) and he said that there might have been a bad batch of spray. Could help me with my models.

So...I never got the spray.

 

Since then. Ive switched to Krylon spray, it's cheaper and the outcome isuch better. Even for my black sprays too. AND you can have other colors. Like gray and such.

 

I still support GW dullcoat and paints :)

[Spacefrisian]

Have you tried putting the white primer can in hot water or under hot streaming water for a couple of minutes?

[Highborn Mergula]

Try to spray from abaout 30-35 centimeters away, and dont apply to thick cause then you'll remove all the details.

also if you think that the model still looks kinda grey you could apply some white with a brush to help the coverage.

[mstersmith]

If you are in the US I use the 96 cent Walmart budget white. Works wonderfully!

[Firepower]

Well, I'm 90% certain my spraying technique isn't the issue. I use the same technique (distance, timing, pattern, etc) as I do for black, and I've never had any issues with black coming out too thick, obscuring details, looking gritty, or anything of that sort. I've used Wal-Mart brand gray primer (the blue can with the color wheel label, can't recall the name) and it worked fairly well, but rubbed off rather easily. May be worth a try with white at any rate.

 

As for the Alcohol stripping, I tried a variety of alcohols with different ingredients (can't recall the exact chemicals, but I was following a Tutorial from either here or Dakka Dakka) and regardless of what type I used it would dissolve the plastic laminate on contact.

 

I've never considered applying direct heat to the canister itself. In fact, I've always deliberately avoided exposing pressurized canisters to excess heat :) It sounds like something that could go horribly, horribly wrong.

 

No advice on how to get better, smoother coats of paint on top of the white? Is it just a universally frustrating undercoat to work with? :D

[Dark Dajin]

I found that cleaning especially helps against the gritty-ness. Never had problems with it after I started cleaning them pre-priming.

 

Paint..patience in adding thin layers, it does work out the best that way. Perhaps you could try thinning the paint in the pot?

 

As for the alcohol... I personally use >80% medical grade cleaning alcohol. (usually available in large quantities from the right suppliers)

[Highborn Mergula]

I know just buy a spray gun and spray it red then you dont need too spray white undercoat ^_^

 

 

/HB M

[Seahawk]

I had the same problem. Turned out it was the technique. The first time I sprayed with it it was at a standard foot away and it was relatively light, as that's how I use every other spray in existence. It turned out dry and dusty, and rubbed off instantly.

 

So, I corrected this by spraying much more thoroughly and a little closer. Basically a heavier, more solid coat. This turned out exactly how I wanted it to, ie good and smooth. It didn't obscure much detail at all.

 

Essentially, the problem is the paint. GW sprays are tempramental at best, too thick and ploppy at worst. I switched to Krylon cans from Walmart and every dream came true. I now have White, Grey, and Black primers that work exactly as they should, and it takes a real pounding/scraping/etc to get it to come off (even metal dudes!). It goes on thin and obscures no detail. Each can has a variable fan nozzle, which is also extremely helpful for large surfaces like vehicles and getting at odd angles.

 

All for $3 each.

[Firepower]

Each can has a variable fan nozzle, which is also extremely helpful for large surfaces like vehicles and getting at odd angles.

 

A who what huh now? Sounds handy, but also unfamiliar.

[ShinyRhino]

Few common stripping methods will take off GW White Primer. I've stripped THOUSANDS of points of Marines with Simple Green, and GW White Primer cannot be even slightly dented by it.

 

The only reliable way I've found to remove GW White Primer is a bath in oven cleaner spray for a week. A bathin pure acetone will also work, but ONLY for metal models.

 

Spraycan shenanigans are the sole reason I prime all my models with a brush, or an airbrush.

[Seahawk]

Each can has a variable fan nozzle, which is also extremely helpful for large surfaces like vehicles and getting at odd angles.

 

A who what huh now? Sounds handy, but also unfamiliar.

 

It's fan shaped, so when you spray it's a line instead of a dot. This is much better for covering models in my opinion. It's variable in that you can rotate it to vertical, horizontal, or whatever you want, which helps at getting different angles.

[Full Metal Racket]

If it turns out gritty after drying, get a clean/dry tooth brush and rub it 'til its smooth, has worked for me in the past. \m/

[LepperGod]

I switched to Krylon cans from Walmart and every dream came true. I now have White, Grey, and Black primers that work exactly as they should, and it takes a real pounding/scraping/etc to get it to come off (even metal dudes!). It goes on thin and obscures no detail. Each can has a variable fan nozzle, which is also extremely helpful for large surfaces like vehicles and getting at odd angles.

 

I live in az and in the summer gw primer works horribly. it goes on thick and whether its chalky or not it makes the minis look funny (not haha funny) so i went out on a limb and i decided to take Seahawk's suggestion and try the Krylon white primer from wal-mart. it worked. im not sure if different primers work in different climates or at different times of year but this krylon stuff worked great outside in the shade in 106 degree temperatures. im so relieved to have found this. i have been battling with white primer for years and this worked. im a bit dumb founded mind. Also, i can see how the variable fan nozzle can help when painting different sized miniatures.

 

a good cheap black primer can be found at autozone. its called touch'n tone and it works great. it goes on thin and dries as quickly as gw black (ive never had trouble with gw black--besides the price) and is $4.00 dollars.

 

thank you Seahawk for the suggestion