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Getting a Model's arm off


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In an effort to get my wife painting as the models she bought for herself are "too small" for her to learn to paint on, I gave her a box of chaos termies and her interest in possibly starting a Chaos Marine army bloomed a bit, she loved the look of the models and liked how the normal CSM models look like. I'm not going to try to push her away from this, but if she wants a CSM army we have one major issue...... I didn't really direct her while she was assembling and the squad is illegal. I was doing my own model related work, and just wanted her to have something "bigger" to paint.

 

The issue is that when she made the squad she put both heavy weapons into the squad and I will let her pick if she wants the RAC or the heavy flamer, but one of them will have to be "clipped" from the squad. Any tips to swap out the arm or a twin linked bolter without too much pain?

 

Also her initial choice was a WFB zombie squad but when she got things assembled she became nervous about painting them (it would be her first time painting) and wanted something bigger. Can't think of infantry models bigger then termies. Also they were spares from a Doombringer set, which I bought a couple of when I thought I'd need more of termies then I actually did.

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Dunk it in SG if the paintjob isn't something you're worried about. Put it in for a few days, then take it out and let it dry. After it's dry, stick it in the freezer overnight. Should come off like it wasn't even there.

 

Of course, this falls apart if pinning was involved.

Really gents, there's no need for saws or any kind of chemical treatment, just work a sharp knife into the gap at the back of the join and keep wiggling til the arm pops off, if you're careful there won't be any noticeable damage and it'll save you hours.
It depends on how much glue you used too. I try to be conservative with glue so it's normally fairly easy to snap an arm off cleanly without any damage if I want to. If it's well stuck then it can be difficult to remove without damaging something but it sounds like you don't need the heavy weapon you'll be removing. As has been mentioned a blade needs to be sharp and if you're careful/patient then it should be fine.

If too much glue is the problem the try using Z-7 Debonder made by Pacer Technologies in California, it's a debonding agent for super glues.

*Removes cured cyanoacrylates from skin,work surfaces,etc.

*Will not craze most plastics.

I have used it many times to debond arms, torso's from legs etc, works great but does take time to work depending on the amount of glue used in the bond. \m/

Personally I find that using plastic glue to soften the bonds works. You will need to get the thin type of plastic glue c(I use tamiya thin). It will seep into the cracks and do what plastic glue does: melt the plastic or in this case, the joints. It then becomes very easy to snap off, without any damage.
  • 2 weeks later...

go the blade technique, it has always worked for me with zero to no damage to the model... minimal damage to one's self if your paying attention...

 

Put mayonaise on the arm then put it in warm water then freeze it I had to do it when my son glued his dreadnoughts arms

:) ;) :)

sounds like a home remedy for bubblegum in kids hair

 

 

DM

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