Force Sanguine Update

[OwlandMoonGuy]

Just some random progress from the painting table.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/OwlandMoonGuy/Angels%20Sanguine/09-FullSquad.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/OwlandMoonGuy/Angels%20Sanguine/08-Squad3.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/OwlandMoonGuy/Angels%20Sanguine/07-Squad2.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/OwlandMoonGuy/Angels%20Sanguine/06-Squad1.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/OwlandMoonGuy/Angels%20Sanguine/00-Baal-Front.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/OwlandMoonGuy/Angels%20Sanguine/02-Baal-Left.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/OwlandMoonGuy/Angels%20Sanguine/01-Baal-Rear.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/OwlandMoonGuy/Angels%20Sanguine/00-DP-WIP1.jpg

 

Cheers, -OMG

[Volcatus]

Amazing work as always, OMG. I love the Lucifer engine..

[Demoulius]

:huh:

[ancient god]

Good stuff OMG!

 

The Lucifer engine looks cool as usual. Love how gritty your DC came out. Nice touch with the skulls to their feet!

[shatter]

What's the method you use for flaking paint over rust/damage? Hairspray or something more esoteric?

[BLACK BLΠFLY]

Looks like you've been very busy. It's all great stuff. In particular I really like the Marines.

 

G :P

[Hurrey]

They are some very nicely painted models indeed that line between the red and black is a true mark of patience. Kudos to you OMG.

 

I have to ask though. Is that the Imperial Guard dozer blade? I recently picked up a couple of vindicator siege sheilds to stick on the front on my Baals but they look silly. Some IG ones on order instead to replace them so hoping they come out more like your Rhino there.

 

Best regards

 

H

[Chaplain Desmodus]

Looks fantastic as always. :cuss

[Angelus Mortifer]

Very nice mate - your vehicles particularly lend themselves well to your weathering technique. Most impressive :RTBBB:

[Midnightmare]

Awesomness, in particular the Baal :D

[OwlandMoonGuy]

Thanks for the comments.

 

What's the method you use for flaking paint over rust/damage? Hairspray or something more esoteric?

Actually you could pose that same question to ancient god as he was the one who gave me the paint recipe along with the technique. In short, it's just paint and the brush stroke used to apply it. No hairspray required. Here's a short list & I'll let ancient comment more on his weathering - if he would so grace us:

 

Metal chips = ancient god's patented metal chipping color & a bit of Mithril Silver

Weathering = lite mix of various shades of gray & brown applied with glancing brush strokes in-line with the direction of the weathering

Rust = Undercoat with Terra Cotta followed by a wet brush of Tin Bitz followed by an overlay of fairly watered down Snakebite Leather followed by a wet brush of Boltgun. I may also apply some black ink washes along the way if the wet brush goes on too thick (i.e. I make a mistake).

 

And just a note that "damage" is physically scratched into the model before applying paint.

 

I hope that helps.

 

I have to ask though. Is that the Imperial Guard dozer blade?

Yes, that is a garden variety, IG dozer blade connected by the IG dozer blade frame that comes on the same vehicle upgrade sprue. You need to shave down the top of the frame so it lays flush with the Rhino hull but that's it from a "conversion" perspective. In retrospect, I really should have magnetized it which is what I intend to do with the 2 Rhino/Razors I have in the works.

 

Thanks again all.

 

-OMG

[ancient god]

OMG, sure, I'll chime in here. :D

 

I apply most of my chipping on vehicles using blister packing foam these days. Just rip off a piece and dab it into your paint of choice, dab off any excess paint similarly to when you are going to dry brush, and you're set.

 

Step 1

I start off with VMC German Camo Black Brown, which is a very dark brown, comparable to Scorched Brown mixed 1:1 with black. Be careful to start this process on the bottom of the model or even on a part that is going to get painted over later. This ensures that you have a handle on how your particular piece of foam works and on the amount of paint left in it.

After dabbing the whole tank I also drag the foam across the vehicle's sides to create horizontally scratched areas, in order to make it look like the vehicle has driven through debris, undergrowth or whatever will make paint come off.

Then I use the same colour to manually paint on scratches where equipment might be placed or handled, troops might walk, etc. (on and around hatches, stepping panels, flat roofs, etc).

 

Note that I use the Black Brown even on black vehicles as can be seen on my DC Razorback.

 

Step 2

After all the chipping, dragging and scratching with the brown is done, I simply apply very small amounts of Chainmail onto some chipped areas, making sure that I mainly stay inside the brown patches. I concentrate on edges and hatches and areas where heavy use is plausible. I usually paint hatches and cupolas separately so that the chipping can be applied more easily.

 

 

So that's basically all I do in terms of chipping. I do all this after decals have been added and the tank has been shaded and highlighted, but before painting any remaining details like exhausts, smoke launchers, etc. and before the actual weathering, ie. soot, dirt and dust.

 

You can see numerous examples of how it looks in my own painting blog - HERE.

Take a look and see if the amount of chipping I do looks good to you. If so, you've got yourself a template. There's more info on my process in there too. If in doubt, always do less and see how that works! You can always add more and that's a lot less work than trying to fix excess weathering.

 

Hope this helps!

[shatter]

While lower on texture, it does seem a hellova lot easier. Thanks, guys.

[OwlandMoonGuy]

OMG, sure, I'll chime in here. :P

^_^ With my thanks.

 

-OMG