Metal Apostle Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 Hi everyone, Just after some feedback on my colour scheme for my White Scars re-vamping. I'm going for a grittier, more realistic feel with these guys after the clean and shiny 2nd/3rd edition schemes which they previously wore. I've gone for a bronze on the chests eagles instead of golden yellow, and scrapped the red elbows. I've also tried a few new techniques which i hope i can get some feedback on how to improve them. Amongst these are washes+wetblending, sponge weathering and even weathering powder. Let me know what you think i can improve on. Just off the bat, i'm thinking the bronze might need even a shining gold highlight, and of course, the bases still need to be edged and static grass'd. I tried using a decal on one and painting over it, but it was a tremendous hassle so i think i might just take some time and paint them freehand; allowing me to match the colours with the rest of the model. http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu327/Twisted-Sister/marine2.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu327/Twisted-Sister/marine1.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu327/Twisted-Sister/marine4copy.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu327/Twisted-Sister/marine3.jpg Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/218945-white-scars-test-paint-scheme/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaplain belisarius Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 wow! that is very nice indeed! how did you paint them? :D Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/218945-white-scars-test-paint-scheme/#findComment-2610604 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peacekeeper Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 Very nice, I love the weathering Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/218945-white-scars-test-paint-scheme/#findComment-2610618 Share on other sites More sharing options...
augustmanifesto Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 really good. The weathering is very effective. I would suggest, however, (1) to make sure your highlights on the white and red pop more (if you added any to begin with, I can't tell). If you started with base white, and therefore could not highlight, try giving a highlight after the wash which dirties up the armor and then apply the rest of your damaging and weathering techniques as you would otherwise. Just a thought. (2) also, I completely understand your decal problem. The problem with free-handing is that it is pretty difficult to get the same results time after time after time. Differences between the same free handed symbols from model to model can really ruin the effect. Moreover, I think you'll be surprised at how much time it sucks away -- as much or maybe more than painting over the decals even including the time required to apply them properly. Instead, I would strongly suggest using microset, microsol and then sealing them with Testor's dulllcote lacquer. The dullcote really makes them look painted on and takes their glossy finish off. It's a godsend, trust me. (I'm not sure if this would interfere with the pigments if applied over them, so, to be sure, maybe be sure to do this step before applying the powders, if you're interested). Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/218945-white-scars-test-paint-scheme/#findComment-2610635 Share on other sites More sharing options...
KYR GKIKAS Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 excellent weathering are by far the best Scars i witnessed. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/218945-white-scars-test-paint-scheme/#findComment-2610762 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metal Apostle Posted January 8, 2011 Author Share Posted January 8, 2011 Thanks for the quick responses guys, and thank you for the encouraging comments. @ chaplain belisarius Haha, which part in particular? I'd be happy to share colour recipes, i'm just a bit lazy to write out a full tutorial right now ;) @ Augustmanifesto: The red and white have have been shaded highlighted to start with; but my phone cam + a lamp hasn't done the best job and capturing that. The other thing is, and i'm hoping you or someone else could recommend something, that since highlighting generally builds up towards the edges, but weathering and chips also occur in such areas, i'm finding that my weathering is covering up a lot of my work in building up these colours :/ Am I simply weathering them too much? On the note of microsol, living in Sydney (and actually moving to Hong Kong in just over a week), i havn't been able to locate any microsol/set. I might just have to order some once i settle down after the move. In both cities however, i've spotted a similar product called Mr Mark Softer and Mark Setter. Has anyone had any experience with using these with the GW decals? I've read (vaguely) that it's stronger than microsol and might dissolve the decal or stain the paint under it. I'll probably bring this up over at the PCA tutorial section to see if anybody uses the stuff w/ GW decals. I agree with the uniformity issue, which is why i wanted to use them to start with (my old scars were all freehand, and i was way more inexperienced back then. I know what you mean. :() It looks like i'll end up using decals and painting over them to get the right shade of red/gold. I also have dullcote, but it was raining last night so i'm about to spray them now! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/218945-white-scars-test-paint-scheme/#findComment-2610895 Share on other sites More sharing options...
batu Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 great white scars keep up the good work, like them dirty ;) Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/218945-white-scars-test-paint-scheme/#findComment-2610907 Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbabyjesus Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 Absolutely loving these, the chapter insignia aren't perfect but they're far from bad freehand, if it'll be quicker to do them that way then I say go for it! Every marine paints their own armour so there 'should' be differences anyway. As an aside, I'm sure you'll be asked this many times, but that white looks great, and consistent too, how did you do it? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/218945-white-scars-test-paint-scheme/#findComment-2610949 Share on other sites More sharing options...
augustmanifesto Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 1. highlight/weathering: you mean the chipping you sponge on covers the line highlights? That's odd. Looking at the minis, I'm not seeing chipping on the areas that would be line highlighted to the extent that would cover them up. In my experience, chipping the edges is a good policy because it adds realism and, since the chips are applied over already highlighted areas, the chips themselves get partially highlighted. But, if your highlights are getting covered by your chipping, I would highlight the chipping. Not as much work as one might think. If you meant your highlights are getting covered up by your weathering generally (washes and powders) then I would reapply the highlights. Either way, its hard to help this issue without better pictures that make the highlights visible to begin with :) Any chance of better pics of these fantastic Khan-ites? 2. Watch out for purity seal. It will change the coloration and effects of the weathering powders (If you didn't know this already). An alternative is to apply the dullcote l mentioned earlier with a brush before the weathering process and then simply use pigment fixer on the minis to keep the pigment in place. hope that helps! great work! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/218945-white-scars-test-paint-scheme/#findComment-2611350 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyrox Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 Nice, what is your method for the White, and what colour did you prime them? Looking good fella Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/218945-white-scars-test-paint-scheme/#findComment-2611618 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candleshoes Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 Wonderful gritty minis you have there, really appreciate the weathering. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/218945-white-scars-test-paint-scheme/#findComment-2611720 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metal Apostle Posted January 10, 2011 Author Share Posted January 10, 2011 Thanks for the comments :) The white is done as follows - Spray white - Thinned down Dheneb Stone - Soft body black wash (I used a similar mix to the one provided on awesomepaintjob.com but using different brands. Essentially a mix of Matte Medium, open/fluid thinner, water and black ink) - Dheneb stone - 50:50 Dheneb Stone: Skull White - 40:60 " " " " - 20:80 " " " " - Thinned Skull White area highlight (Start streaking highlight; i wanted my streaking to be more subtle so as to look dirty; rather than starting it at earlier stages/giving it too much depth/texture) - More Solid thinned skull white edge highlight - Touch up crevices with the black wash Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/218945-white-scars-test-paint-scheme/#findComment-2611834 Share on other sites More sharing options...
sioka Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 Beautiful painting mate and a nice solid white as well ( hard to do! ). If you are going to take the time to paint to this standard then you may as well go freehand as it will benefit you more in the long run and you wont have to rely on the transfers. As Blackbabyjesus says all marine armour is different and the slight variancy in the emblem works in your favour bringing a solid looking army when viewed from a distance but individual peices and personalities up close. Also when you get to your command squad and elites you wont be fazed by more intricate work on pauldrons or company banners just practise at it and keep your paints thin ( mixing with ink can be very usefull and for any line work is great on its own ). Your weathering is good but you may benifit from concentrating it on edges and high wear areas if you think of the places that you are going hit on things like edges of pauldrons at the bottom and sides of legs and tops of boots. In terms of weathering covering your highlights dont worry too much if its the chipping as it is metalic and will do the hard work for you and if it is dirt ( weathering powders ) then unless it is suposed to be fresh dirt it is non reflective anyhow . Alternativley source out a bottle of SC Jhonsons Klear and apply this before weathering using an airbrush ( it comes in 500ml bottles and is the best source of cheap gloss varnish it takes paint well and if mixed with dull coat forms a satin or dead flat finnish depending on ratios ) then apply all your weathering seal again with the klear then dullcoat this time and all your hard work is protected ready to game and the weathering will stay looking great! I hope this is of some use to you keep up the good work I look forward to more of your White Scars. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/218945-white-scars-test-paint-scheme/#findComment-2611859 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizzly_bear Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 A very nice battle worn White....whites a very hard colour to get a clean battle damage look.....again very nice fella. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/218945-white-scars-test-paint-scheme/#findComment-2612097 Share on other sites More sharing options...
hushrong Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 Very nice White Scars. They look great with the gritty effects! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/218945-white-scars-test-paint-scheme/#findComment-2612149 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Mord Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 I agree with the use of Mircosol and Microset. I use them for my Black Templar and Imperial Fists decals, both of which do not sit well on shoulder pads. There are how to's on this forum. It is very effective stuff and will make doing your white scar insignia easy and fast to do. Very worth giving it a try. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/218945-white-scars-test-paint-scheme/#findComment-2612258 Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaplain belisarius Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 any plans to do some bikers? :( Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/218945-white-scars-test-paint-scheme/#findComment-2612447 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metal Apostle Posted January 10, 2011 Author Share Posted January 10, 2011 After some thought and consideration of what you guys have said i think i'll go with the painting over method. Whilst annoying and taking a while to do, it ensures that i get the right colour but also helps me get more uniformity in the chapter badge. Whilst these ones are done relatively consistant, i don't have so much faith in myself to keep it the same over about 7000 pts of marines! As for bikes, the re-vamping consists so far of 3 detatchments of 3 army lists; one mech company, one all bike company, and one mech deathwing count-as ("Stormwing") company. The bikes army is nearly done construction-wise, with only a few attack bikes and the command squad left. The bike detatchment and Stormwing can be found on the WIP Section of this forum. On that note, i'd really like to be able to destinguish where each marine serves as far as organization goes from the paint scheme. Any ideas on how to denote company/brotherhoods in White Scars? I've never really heard of them using the codex shoulder trimming colours; to my knowledge they've always just gone for red trimmings, which isn't too confusing for the 3rd Brotherhood, but say fthe 5th Brotherhood, how would i integrate black into the scheme? One thought i've had was to perhaps paint a single kneepad in 'company colours' but shoulder trims remain red. If i were to go down this road, what of the Corvus style 'greave' legs? I've heard once also that they use their brotherhood colours on the tribal markings... eg. 4th Brotherhood uses green tribal markings. I'm thinking this is a bit too weird, although one kneepad could look ok. Ideas?? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/218945-white-scars-test-paint-scheme/#findComment-2612519 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deacoknight Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 I have a 5th Brotherhood Army (Captain Muthuli, Master of the Marches) that i am revamping myself. I went with a black flame tribal marking on the left lower greave or on the left knee pad. I also do it on the bike front guards and on the bottom rim of all of my vehicles. I went with codex markings (pad trim in black) but kept the red on the chest eagle and ritual scar marks on their helmets. Not the world's best pictures, but you can see what I did on this Tac Squad and their Rhino. By the way, I really like your weathering effect. It is hard to pull off on white but I think you did it very effectively. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/218945-white-scars-test-paint-scheme/#findComment-2612700 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyrox Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 I would say the tribal markings are always Red The Chapter has a red lightning bolt as an emblem, and most of the tribal markings are similar in shape so'd stick with Red to be honest As for Brotherhood/Company Colours, I use the shoulder Trim, but its not clear what the official way is. How about using the chest eagle to denote company, or maybe a bumber on the model somewhere? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/218945-white-scars-test-paint-scheme/#findComment-2613188 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Till Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 I like them. Generally I don't care for weathering but these are ok. What makes it really look good is how well the weathering pattern matches the bases; Im not a fan of seeing minis with crazy dirt all over them, while standing on a grass field. I would recommend painting the shoulders without the transfer, after the first 4 or 5 logos you wont need the blueprint at all. It will really save some time over the army. Only thing I think I would change if I did these was to put on a ring of brown ink on the backpack ball port thingy. You dont see any definition at all between the ball and the very short cylinder. All in all I like em. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/218945-white-scars-test-paint-scheme/#findComment-2613608 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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