Brushes for a noob

[Brother Mitch]

Hi,

 

Brother Mitch here, having been into the fluff of Warhammer for a long time, the books being massively influencial. I have recently decided to pick up some marines and try my hand at both modelling and some gaming. I have read the FAQ to do with paint brushes on here, as well as looking at discussions of what brushes are best. They are quite in depth and give a lot of information. I want to paint my models to a decent enough tabletop standard as well as develop my painting skills to learn newer techniques. To this end we get to my point and questions:

 

As a begginer with no experience with brushes, what make would be good to start with? as in not too expensive but still goo quality.

 

What sizes should I get to begin with? I was thinking a detail brush, a general all-rounder type and a wash brush? if thats right what sizes are they so I can go look?

 

Thanks for your help guys, I know you have all probably answered this type of question a million times but it would help me out loads and is massively appreciated.

 

Blessings and Honours to your chapter!

[djhg]

I personally use a Standard Brush and a Fine Detail Brush for 99% of my painting.

When dry brushing I use an old crappy Standard Brush rather than buying an extra dry brush...

 

I would say that the Standard and the Fine Detail are the best starting points.

GW brushes are to my mind of a good quality, I've got some Vallejo brushes and was quite disappointed as well as several brands of art supply store brushes which were also rather poo quality.

 

Simply put, pay a little extra and get good paintbrushes right from the start. It'll make your experience with painting that much better.

 

You've probably already read stuff about 'licking' the brush... just do it.

You'll have your brushes going from lasting no more than a month to potentially up to 6 months. (Based on painting 1-2 hours a day)

 

 

As a final idea, have 2 pots of water when painting.

1 for washing brushes, the other for watering paint. Keeps the paint from getting 'soiled' by dirty water.

 

If you want anything more specific feel free to ask :P

[IanV]

Without getting too much in detail. Any of the top brands is great but really it should be what brush works best for you. What's more important is you get as much painting time in as possible. There's a ton of videos and guides out there to help you out with this.

 

With that said, I'd say go with Raphael 8404's or if you can personally pick 'em out, Series 7s (reason being their QC isn't as good but if you get a great one, you have a GREAT one). Heard some good things about the Da Vinci Maestros 5500 series too. Skip the midpriced brushes, go top tier and take care of 'em (2 pots of water-> like djhg said, brush soap after every session, brush cleaner and restorer after about 4 or 5, and a brush rack to let water drip out of the ferrule). Will save you more money in the long run.

 

Get just two, a basecoat (size 2 or 1) and detail (0) the tips will be so sharp you probably wont need to go smaller.=) Roughly 25ish (CAD$) if you buy in an artshop, plus extra for the cleaning supplies. Only GW brush I'd recommend is the drybrush.

[Brother Valerius]

You've probably already read stuff about 'licking' the brush... just do it.

:D

 

Personally, I prefer to not ingest paint. But to each his own.

[WookieeGunner]

I use the DaVinci Maestros and love them. For a starter, I would consider GW to be the bottom quality you should get. Though I do recomend getting their dry brushes even if you get another brand of brushes for everything else. Most people will say to just use an old brush for drybrushing, but I can definately tell a difference between old brush and the GW drybrushes.

 

If you are looking for yourelf, what to look for:

 

1) Kolinsky Red Sable bristles

2) How many of them in the store have good points and how many have splayed points? Splayed points cause random hairs that will drag paint in places you don't want it.

3) Roll a splayed point in your fingers, does it go back to being a good point? When it is wet it will do a better job, but you can at least get a feel with dry fingers.

4) How small is the tip? This is the "How hard is it to paint the inner elbow joint?" question.

 

Also, while you are at the art shop, look for a micro pen. They are very useful for doing black lining (i.e. take the pen and drag it through all the little lines cut into the plastic to make them stand out).

[Brother Mitch]

Thanks for the replys guys, this is exactly what I was looking for.

 

@djhg: thanks for the info, like the idea of 2 pots of water. The two brushes is what I was thinking as well. Was thinking of just getting the GW paint brushes to begin with and if I like them then I'll probably just stick with them. Oh, just out of interest, roughly how long do they last for?

 

@ IanV: I've heard of those brushes, namely the Windsor Newton Series 7, although after checking them out, I'm not too sure price wise as I'm only just starting out and will probably go through a fair few before I start using them properly. The sizes and advice of what ones to get is exactly what I was after. Defo get a detail brush and the other size was what I was unsure of.

 

@ Brother Valerius: My dad used to do it when I painted airfix models with him, he swore by it and his painting was second to none.

 

1) Kolinsky Red Sable bristles

2) How many of them in the store have good points and how many have splayed points? Splayed points cause random hairs that will drag paint in places you don't want it.

3) Roll a splayed point in your fingers, does it go back to being a good point? When it is wet it will do a better job, but you can at least get a feel with dry fingers.

4) How small is the tip? This is the "How hard is it to paint the inner elbow joint?" question.

 

Also, while you are at the art shop, look for a micro pen. They are very useful for doing black lining (i.e. take the pen and drag it through all the little lines cut into the plastic to make them stand out).

 

@ WookieeGunner:

1) I have red about these (apparently kolinsky is siberian weasel tail hair?? random I know) this is for the detail brush isn't it?

2)I take it its better to buy the detail brush in a store rather than online to make sure to get a good point?

3)Nice idea

4)To begin with it wont be a massive problem, but as I get better (I hope) it will become more important.

 

As I will be building a black templar army, will the micro pen be good for doing writing effects? i.e. littanies of hate and scripture on shoulder pads?

 

Thanks guys for the comments they are what I was after.

[Commander Sasha]

I think you've got the right idea: start with the GW ones, they're cheap, and will suffice for your first few models. Expect them to last at least 20-30 infantry for detail. Then, as they start to get a bit straggly, demote them to base colouring and vehicles, then they'll be your drybrushes, and eventually the poor things will be applying glue to scenery and begging to be shot!

 

Once they start to deteriorate, THEN treat yourself to good new ones. I love the Windsor&Newton No7s too, and they last many times longer than the GW ones, they hold more paint with less drips, I love them in a way that I should not, despite not actually being any good at painting!

[WookieeGunner]

On number one, you are correct on the brush type, but I recomend it for pretty much anything other than an all over base coat. I routinely use a #2 for things like Sholder pad edges and the bolter. It's especially true when you have a detail that you want to paint that is the same color as something larger. For example painting the chest eagle and the shoulder pads both white. Normally I would use a detail brush for the eagle (because of the head), but if I'm also painting the pads, I will sometimes just use my #2 on both (so I have the larger brush for the pads).

 

On number 2, it is better to buy a high end online then a low end in a store (for example I bought my DaVinci's online because no one here carries them) but yes, given the option it is always better to pick your own brushes.

 

On number 4, actually having a good tip is essential as a beginner. A good tip means you are much less likely to get paint where you don't want it, significantly reducing the frustration (of constantly having to retouch the model), fatique (from having to figure out that one way to get the paint in a crevice without overpainting, trust me I've had several times I strained my eyes trying to focus on the splayed part of the point and the model at the same time before I upgraded my brushes).

 

And yes, the micro pen would also be good for the litanies.

[djhg]

Oh, just out of interest, roughly how long do they last for?

I wash the paint out in water, then suck the water out of the brush.

Since I started doing that my detail brushes typically last me 3 or 4 months of use (2-3 hours a day)

 

If you choose not to, and not undergo any other brush care besides washing in water and putting them aside you'll measure a brushes useful lifespan in days or weeks. A month if you're lucky.

[IanV]

Hmmm... looks like I missed your point on "not too expensive but still good quality"*. Sure, the GW ones are decent. But if you're looking at right around that price range, check out the army painter wargamer series. Very comfy handles on those. Just avoid buying the Character and Detail brushes together. Minimal difference in size between those two. Regiment + Detail + Insane Detail (totally optional, and the only reason I'm recommending this is the points aren't as good for mid-range sable) should be all you need. Forget about a "wash" brush. A standard brush can do that just fine.

 

*I still think you should go kolinsky. If you take care of high end sable, they last waaaaay longer, ending up saving you more in the long run. Mine are 3 yrs old and still razor sharp. Really, it's not that hard (soap, restorer and stand). Doesn't matter if you're a noob, if you take care of them they WILL last you, and they'll make painting that much more enjoyable. Anyway, Army Painter... check it out, you might like it... and good luck! :cuss

 

Oh and a quick caveat on those sizes. They're not standard. Varies by manufacturer.

[Brother Valerius]

Oh, just out of interest, roughly how long do they last for?

I wash the paint out in water, then suck the water out of the brush.

Since I started doing that my detail brushes typically last me 3 or 4 months of use (2-3 hours a day)

 

If you choose not to, and not undergo any other brush care besides washing in water and putting them aside you'll measure a brushes useful lifespan in days or weeks. A month if you're lucky.

 

I have to disagree with this. My GW brushes are still going strong almost a year after I bought them, and I have only ever washed them out with water. They still work as well as the day I bought them.

 

Granted, some don't think the brushes are all that good to begin with, but I have always had good results with them. My painting isn't the world's greatest, but that has to do with the artist, and not his tools.

[Br0ther Rafen]

i'm a GW brush man myself. they last long, have kept their point throughout their lifespans, and all this just using water to clean them out with.

granted, there are better brushes out there, but GW ones are perfectly fine for me. As for brushes to get, i would get Standard, Detail/Fine Detail and, if you'd like, a Medium/Large Drybrush. that will cover nearly all the bases in terms of painting standard stuff. I prefer a wider selection (I have most of the different brushes GW sells, along with several brushes from other brands), but those will see you through.

[Tanhausen]

Micro pen = Rottring(sp?)?

[WookieeGunner]

Sorry, don't know the term except in English. The are used in drafting (drawing plans for building, machines, etc.) and tend to have a tip that will give you a .5mm or less line.

[Tanhausen]

Its a German brand of those pens they make you buy in school for technical drawing.

 

They go with .2, .4, .6 and .8 usually and they are extremely delicate, easy to bend the tips.

[Ironwulf]

Rotring or Rapidograph pens are way too expensive as technical pens, and don't work very well on models. The pens that were previously mentioned are from a company called Pigma, and the brand name is Micron. They are basically very small-tipped felt-tip markers, with archival ink in them. Much cheaper than a set of technical pens. There are different pen sizes of the Micron pens too. The one sized .005 is likely to be the smallest, and perhaps the most useful.

[Engineer Jeff]

Pay out a couple bucks extra and pick yourself up some Winsor & Newton series 7 brushes or something comparable.. As long as you clean them after use, they'll last you for years.

 

I bought mine from Dick Blick.

[Brother Mitch]

Cheers guys for all the advice, think I'll stick with the GW brushes just now, as I am a student and don't have much money then, when I do have money I'll get a good brush one at a time to see what they're like and look after them.

 

And again thanks everyone for your input!!

[EmbattledSoul]

with the series 7 brushes, what sizes are recommended from that line?

[Terminatorinhell]

I prefer loew cornell brushes, I have had a spotter brush and a line brush, and so far they lasted me for 1.5 years and I paint a lot.

[Stargazer]

As you are in the UK then I highly highly recommend Rosemary & Co Kolinsky Sable brushes (google them) They are cheaper than GW brushes but as good quality as Windsor and Newtons IMHO. Many of the Golden Demon standard painters I know use them and also swear by them.

[pate]

I only use GW-brushes. Standard and retail. I like the size of the brushes but not really the quality. I'd try more high-quality but I wouldn't lnow what brand to get nor what sizes would correspond to GW' standard and detail-size. And since I have to buy all my hobbysupplies online, I haven't dared to try any other brand yet.

[Stargazer]

Not sure about other makes, but with the Rosemary & Co brushes, their 1/0 is about the size of the fine detail brush and their 2 is probably closest to the standard brush although it has been a while since I've used GW brushes ;)