Tips on applying washes

[MalachiOfRuss]

Hey guys,

 

I'm new to painting models myself. I read lots of tutorials and watched videos, but it's always harder when you actually try to DO that stuff. Anyway, I'm having trouble when I go to apply my wash(es) to the model. Basically it ends up looking like crud with the wash drying and the color applied unevenly all over the place: too dark in the deep recesses, and uneven "splotches" over the higher points. I figure this must be a technique thing on my part.

 

So: how do you apply washes so that you get that darker coloration in the recesses without unevenly affecting the base color on all the other parts? Thanks!

[Tanhausen]

Be careful when applying them and dont leave "drops" or "lines" of wash on the more flat surfaces (shoulder pads, legs, etc).

[Brother Nihm]

So: how do you apply washes so that you get that darker coloration in the recesses without unevenly affecting the base color on all the other parts? Thanks!

By only applying them to the recesses and maybe half-way up the mid-tones.

[Brother Valerius]

Wouldn't that leave a pretty sharp boundary between the washed and unwashed areas? Or is it not as stark a contrast as my imagination is making it out to be?

[Brother Nihm]

Wouldn't that leave a pretty sharp boundary between the washed and unwashed areas? Or is it not as stark a contrast as my imagination is making it out to be?

That depends on your highlights really.

I used Devlan Mud in the recesses of the Skull-pad here:

[rhunicus]

If you are going to do a wash over a large part of the model (i do it a lot on shouderpads) do a very thin layer of wash at first and make it smooth, making sure to get more in recesses.

 

Dont worry about spreading it across the whole thing as long as its relatively thin. You can always add more later.

 

Also if it leaves any splotches, just go back in and clean it up with whatever color you used under it.

 

Practice practice practice!

[MalachiOfRuss]

If you are going to do a wash over a large part of the model (i do it a lot on shouderpads) do a very thin layer of wash at first and make it smooth, making sure to get more in recesses.

 

Dont worry about spreading it across the whole thing as long as its relatively thin. You can always add more later.

 

Also if it leaves any splotches, just go back in and clean it up with whatever color you used under it.

 

Practice practice practice!

So you apply it just to the areas where you are wanting the darkening effect rather than over the whole model? Also, I did go back and patch up the worst of the areas with a touch-up of the base color, so I'm glad that's a "proper" way to fix it.

[Tamwulf]

I like to add a little bit of water to thin down the wash a bit. Depends on the wash though. I'll put a layer on, let it dry, then consider adding another layer.

 

The nice thing about washes is the effect they have on the paint underneath. A wash usually has more pigment in it then a paint, it's just the way it's formulated. A wash is a translucent medium, and a paint is a solid medium. This means the wash will tint the color underneath it. If you have a "dull" blue, you can deepen the color and even brighten it up by adding a couple layers of a blue wash. Experiment with different color washes over a base color to see what you get. Washes make it easy to paint a model and get a lot of detail out of it.

 

When using GW Blood Red, I find it a bit too bright, so I give it a couple washes to deepen the color and tone it down.

 

The great thing about GW washes, is that they are translucent enough that you could cover an entire model, and it would settle into the recces adding depth of shadow. Raised areas are still slightly tinted. This is why I add a drop or two of water. It thins the wash out even more, yet still settles into the recces adding depth, but the raised areas are not as tinted. Saves me a bit of time and effort. I also find that I don't have to go back over an area with my base color of paint to clean up a mistake.

 

Washes are awesome, and I find myself painting more and more with them. Base color, highlight, wash. Clean up a little afterwards, call it good. :)

[shortysl]

I have a question regarding washes too actually. My painting techniques has always consisited of essentiallt basecoat, main coat and detail. However, i did recently experiment with highlighting the edges of my Dark Angels vehicles and they look brilliant because of it (need tidying up but i'm pleased with the overall effect). My question refers to robes and Deathwing terminators; what wash should i use and should i apply the was over a white basecoat BEFORE i paint on the Bleached Bone (to keep the wash in the recesses) or do i apply it once the model is complete (running the risk of tinting a very light colour like Bleached Bone with the colour of the was)? I'm a 14 year veteran of gaming and collecting and i feel it's about time i got out of my comfort zone and started making an effort with my paint jobs. Any advice that can be given will be greatly appreciated.

[Fred Johnson the 3rd jr]

Also if it leaves any splotches, just go back in and clean it up with whatever color you used under it.

 

This. I wash my marines from head to toe, carefully of course, but I do coat them all over. Then I go back and drybrush with their armor color over everything but the recesses. Works well for me, looks decent, which is good because I am easily a below average painter skill-wise.

[Tanhausen]

When painting my deathwing, I prime white, base coat very light brown (Vallejo Flat Tan), light cover of Bleach bone, Sepia wash and Bleached bone touch up.

 

Everything done by AB except the touch up obviously.

 

It socres 5/10 for me :)

 

BTW, details (golden aquila and so) I paint BEFORE the wash.

[XKhalilX]

also if you dont like the shiny look that the ink washes leave, apply a very tiny droplet of dish soap. very tiny drop. it takes the shine out of the ink. i love it.

[Vindicatus]

I, myself, am a fan of making my mini's look dirty. Grungy. Like they've ACTUALLY been fighting instead of walking in off the parade field. Good example is the Nurgle Termies I'm working on.

 

Base coat black > drybrush white > drybrush camo green > drybrush rotting flesh > detail work > badab black. EVERYWHERE. (It makes shadows, makes skulls look like skulls should, defines cracks in armour, holes, gouges, etc) > rust pigment work on metallic areas > highlight scorpion green on grungy edges of torso > Thraka Green on the power armour

 

 

Point is, you need to know where you want your washes to go. Appropriately thinned, they'll go where you want them, and you can easily 'pick it up' with a dry, clean brush if you fudge a little when it's still wet. I don't drop Thraka Green on cloth or parchment when I'm washing, nor do I drop Devlin Mud on a rich green. Pick out your shadows and crevaces, then pick out other areas that might need dulling or brightening with your washes (as it was pointed out up above, greens, blues, and reds). Sounds like a pain in the ass, but being a little 'choosy' where you go with it will pay off in the end.