Angels Encarmine

[Bat33.1]

I've had a couple of Baal Predators sitting on my shelf unbuilt for some time now and recently got around to building and painting one of them. I decided to go for a succesor chapter and picked Angels Encarmine mainly due to the alternative white armour of the sang guard and death company. The first pictures show the initial build after undercoat and basecoating. The colours used were GW chaos black undercoat, Army Painter Dragon Red basecoat, followed by Vallejo Bloody Red airbrushed over as a highlight stage fading from top to bottom. Followed by some sooting again applied with my AB. It was the first time I tried this technique as I've only recently got up enough confidence to start using my AB on new kits.

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y87/paulj1965/GW%2040K/BaalPredator004crop.jpg

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y87/paulj1965/GW%2040K/BaalPredator001crop.jpg

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y87/paulj1965/GW%2040K/BaalPredator001crop.jpg

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y87/paulj1965/GW%2040K/BaalPredator006crop.jpg

[Bat33.1]

Here are the results of more work which show the Baal in almost complete condition - I still need to gloss the gems, lenses, and lights but other than this I think I'm done. I'm undecided if I should add some weathering powders or leave well enough alone though?

 

I've also added a couple of pics of a DC figure which I had started to paint a while ago in the standard DC black this is more of a test figure than a start for my DC as he would be way expensive in a game - 60pts worth :wacko:

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y87/paulj1965/GW%2040K/BA009Baalcrop.jpg

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y87/paulj1965/GW%2040K/BA011Baalcrop.jpg

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y87/paulj1965/GW%2040K/BA010Baalcrop.jpg

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y87/paulj1965/GW%2040K/BA014Baalcrop.jpg

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y87/paulj1965/GW%2040K/BA016Baalcrop.jpg

 

DC figure

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y87/paulj1965/GW%2040K/BA003crop.jpg

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y87/paulj1965/GW%2040K/BA004crop.jpg

[Lord Ragnarok]

When I first saw the Blood Angels dex, and saw the white Death Company for the Angels E., I fell in love. You have confirmed that feeling.

[Legio Draconis]

That predator is badass.

[Reyner]

That predator looks great, as does the Death Company marine!

[TrentL]

What do you mean by AB? I Love the Baal it looks awesome I hope to be able to weather mine like that but I doubt I will hehe.. what exaclt did you do to do all the weathering?

[Heru]

What do you mean by AB?

Airbrush.

[Bat33.1]

What do you mean by AB? I Love the Baal it looks awesome I hope to be able to weather mine like that but I doubt I will hehe.. what exaclt did you do to do all the weathering?

 

Heru Talon :no: is correct AB = airbrush - sorry should have made that clear in my earlier posts.

 

As for weathering the Baal;

 

Undercoat, basecoat, highlight coat then add soot effects as in the first pictures.

 

Chipping: use a piece of scrap foam from a blister pack lightly dipped in a dark brown - I used Vallejo german camo black brown - use this to chip the edges of the Baal anywhere you would expect wear and tear. Practice on the bottom of the hull to make sure you don't have too much paint on the sponge.

 

Chipping 2: you can use a brush or sponge here, I used a brush - go back over the chips with boltgun metal making sure to leave the dark brown showing and also add any bits of pure boltgun for fresh marks again to edges, hatches, areas the crew would need to move over to get in.

 

I now paint all the details - lights, vision blocks, bolters, chapter symbols, tracks, etc.

 

Tracks, exhausts, bolters, AC, and other metal areas along with the wheels were given a 1:1:1 wash of water/badab black/devlun mud and left to dry overnight.

 

Next gloss varnish - yes gloss - the whole model. I used an acrylic floor polish called Quick Shine (QS)as a replacement for the difficult to find Klear. You can use any acrylic gloss but this stuff works so well and has other uses too. Once this is dry add the decals using micro sol/micro set or similar to ensure they are nice and flat and leave no silver edges around the decal. Leave the decals to dry add any paint chips to the decals to match them to your chipping at this stage. Then coat again with gloss varnish to seal them and prevent damage I use this stage to give the whole kit another full coat of QS. Leave to cure for 24hrs.

 

Now comes the wash and heavier weathering stage - the gloss finish helps any washes to hug details more closely and protects your paint underneath - if you boo boo here the QS or Klear can be removed with windex/windolene without removing the paint beneath. I used Mig enamel washes they do a premixed oil based wahs that stays workable for longer than acrylic allowing streaking and fade effects and easy removal if you overdo it with white spirit. I used a mix of medium and dark wash applied with a small pointed brush into all engraved details, around edges, rivets, roadwheels, etc, and it will flow around all the details due to the gloss finish. Use a flat soft brush moistened with white spirit to streak and fade the wash as required. Leave to cure for at least 24hrs due to the oil based wash. You can of course use GW or Vallejo acrylic washes at this stage but they don't allow as much working time.

 

Matt varnish the whole kit, gloss the details - gems, vision blocks, lights and your done.

 

You can add weathering powders at this stage for an even more earthy or dusty look but I'm not sure it's needed for a tabletop model and will probably leave my alone.

 

Hope this covers it ;)

 

If you have any questions I'll do my best to answer them but many of these techniques are lifted straight from our military modelling and railway modelling cousins.

 

edit for spelling

[chaplain belisarius]

wow! :no:

[batu]

your tank is fantastic, do you used FW decals ?

 

your marine is nice too of course :)

 

keep aup the good work want to see more.

[verpine]

I <3 you, i've been looking all over the Internet for good AB tutorials for red and bam, here it is, right on the b&c. Crazy awesome stuff, and thank you thank you thank you.

[Firepower]

Though both models are excellent, I find myself far more impressed with the DC marine than the tank :( Or maybe I'm just jealous of AB owners...painting tanks by brush is tedium incarnate.

 

Is the little fella in white a result of AB shenanigans too, or good old honest brushwork? :P

[Cyrox]

Yes... share the DC recipe!!

[peers]

thanks for the weathering tutorial (bookmarked :) ) , it certainly achieved a great effect on the predator.

 

keep up the excellent work :)

 

J

[Bat33.1]

:) Thanks for the kind comments everybody :)

 

your tank is fantastic, do you used FW decals ?

 

your marine is nice too of course :)

 

keep aup the good work want to see more.

 

Yes I used the FW Blood Angels decals - cheating is good :)

 

Though both models are excellent, I find myself far more impressed with the DC marine than the tank ;) Or maybe I'm just jealous of AB owners...painting tanks by brush is tedium incarnate.

 

Is the little fella in white a result of AB shenanigans too, or good old honest brushwork? :P

 

Little white fella is rattle can spray and brush no AB at all on this one but I think I will use the AB once I have a unit to paint.

 

The mini was one I built up some time ago and had been undercoated chaos black -out of a spray can so I had to start from black, ideally grey primer would be better. I then used 2-3 thin coats of skull white again out of a spray can to get close to pure skull white. Next stage was to use a thinned vallejo light grey 2:1 water/paint and paint this into the armour joints, around details, etc keep it thin if possible mine is a little too heavy in places but this was a first attempt. Use skull white to clean up any mistakes then paint the rest of the details. Armour soft joints and infernus gun are boltgun followed by badab wash, reds are mechrite red followed by vallejo bloody red - GW blood red, scrolls/skulls are dheneb stone/skull white 1:1 - washed gryphone sepia - highlighted with 1:2 dheneb/white for skulls I then use a final light highlight of 1:3 you can drybrush this or leave it altogether if you wish. Backpack was left off until painted chaos black and a edge highlight of vallejo light grey 1:1 water/grey and a couple of chips around the boots of chardon granite or vallejo german camo black brown.

 

It is possible to do something similar to the Baal finish without an AB with a couple of Army Painter sprays - dragon red first, followed by pure red lightly sprayed from above to add a highlight. The soot marks would have to done with either drybrushing of the use of weathering powders once the rest of the painting was done. Smoother and quicker than brushing :)

[Shadow Nugz]

Wow I always marvel at white marines, really, how cocky can you be? That DC marine is looking great, very clean and punchy.

 

The Baal Predator on the other hand, looks... well... BEAUTIFUL! The soot weathering and the scrapes (especially around the hatch) look very realistic.

 

Keep it up

[verpine]

Hey PJ1993, would you mind PM'ing me what type of AB and compressor you have?

[Firepower]

The mini was one I built up some time ago and had been undercoated chaos black -out of a spray can so I had to start from black, ideally grey primer would be better. I then used 2-3 thin coats of skull white again out of a spray can to get close to pure skull white.

 

Wait...so you essentially primed the model 3 or 4 times? Once in black and several times in white? And "thin coats," like a dusting? If I'm reading this right, it's remarkable that the small details weren't completely gooped up :D

[Bat33.1]

The mini was one I built up some time ago and had been undercoated chaos black -out of a spray can so I had to start from black, ideally grey primer would be better. I then used 2-3 thin coats of skull white again out of a spray can to get close to pure skull white.

 

Wait...so you essentially primed the model 3 or 4 times? Once in black and several times in white? And "thin coats," like a dusting? If I'm reading this right, it's remarkable that the small details weren't completely gooped up ;)

 

Yes thats right.

 

I never start spraying direct at the mini, start the can spraying and move it past the mini. It will take a few passes from different directions to get the mini coated but I very rarely have problems with over thick paint. The only time was with a vallejo can of grey primer which wasn't mixed fully - my mistake for not testing it before spraying the minis and they end up with a bit of a splatter coat :(

Also you need to take some time and allow paint to dry between coats. Like I said earlier with the white DC mini I'd have normally used a grey undercoat or even white but he was already undercoated to be a regular black DC and I wanted a test mini :)

 

Hey PJ1993, would you mind PM'ing me what type of AB and compressor you have?

 

No secret really I have an Iwata HP-C brush and an AS18-2 compressor which comes with a regulator and importantly a moisture trap. I use an extra small moisture trap on the AB too which fits on the hose connection. If you look on DV8's WIP thread he has a picture of the same compressor - http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.p...00547&st=75 They are not too spendy and mine has been fine. I plan to add an extra AB though for basecoating, probably an Iwata revolution or maybe one of the look alike cheap ones that are around. The HP-C is ok for basecoating but the Revolution has a larger needle so can flow more paint and with a quick release connection on the hose it's easy to swap between AB's for highlighting or whatever.