Bat33.1 Posted February 8, 2011 Author Share Posted February 8, 2011 Great job on everything. Markings on shoulder pads... have you tried tracing paper? Use a hard pencil on tracing paper. Then place the paper on the shoulder pad while rubbing the back side. It should transfer over. I used that technique in the '90s for Eldar bike canopies and it worked well. Marine shoulder pads may be small, but I don't have any other suggestions. Hmmm will have to try that, thanks. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/221844-baal-predator-and-dc/page/2/#findComment-2652072 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seva Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Great work! When you say you basecoated with chaos black then painted white over it, both from a can, do you mean spray paint? or did you just dip your brush into a can of GW paint? Your stuff is well done. Can't wait to see more. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/221844-baal-predator-and-dc/page/2/#findComment-2652229 Share on other sites More sharing options...
daboarder Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 That is indeed sexy, and not even nurgle sexy or traditional BA sexy. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/221844-baal-predator-and-dc/page/2/#findComment-2652307 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bat33.1 Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 Great work! When you say you basecoated with chaos black then painted white over it, both from a can, do you mean spray paint? or did you just dip your brush into a can of GW paint? Your stuff is well done. Can't wait to see more. Yes GW spray paint. I find skull white, when brush painted, can be tricky to get nice and smooth. I'm not sure why but it does seems to hold brush marks more than other GW paints, but I'm finding Vallejo is becoming my paint of choice more often now. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/221844-baal-predator-and-dc/page/2/#findComment-2653149 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Weasel Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 all tis talk on the white, i wann ahear about that red on the pred.. and hte various damages Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/221844-baal-predator-and-dc/page/2/#findComment-2653208 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bat33.1 Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 Here ya go B) The colours used were GW chaos black undercoat, Army Painter Dragon Red basecoat, followed by Vallejo Bloody Red airbrushed over as a highlight stage fading from top to bottom. Followed by some sooting again applied with my airbrush As for weathering the Baal; Chipping: use a piece of scrap foam from a blister pack lightly dipped in a dark brown - I used Vallejo german camo black brown - use this to chip the edges of the Baal anywhere you would expect wear and tear. Practice on the bottom of the hull to make sure you don't have too much paint on the sponge. Chipping 2: you can use a brush or sponge here, I used a brush - go back over the chips with boltgun metal making sure to leave the dark brown showing and also add any bits of pure boltgun for fresh marks again to edges, hatches, areas the crew would need to move over to get in. I now paint all the details - lights, vision blocks, bolters, chapter symbols, tracks, etc. Tracks, exhausts, bolters, AC, and other metal areas along with the wheels were given a 1:1:1 wash of water/badab black/devlun mud and left to dry overnight. Next gloss varnish - yes gloss - the whole model. I used an acrylic floor polish called Quick Shine (QS)as a replacement for the difficult to find Klear. You can use any acrylic gloss but this stuff works so well and has other uses too. Once this is dry add the decals using micro sol/micro set or similar to ensure they are nice and flat and leave no silver edges around the decal. Leave the decals to dry add any paint chips to the decals to match them to your chipping at this stage. Then coat again with gloss varnish to seal them and prevent damage I use this stage to give the whole kit another full coat of QS. Leave to cure for 24hrs. Now comes the wash and heavier weathering stage - the gloss finish helps any washes to hug details more closely and protects your paint underneath - if you boo boo here the QS or Klear can be removed with windex/windolene without removing the paint beneath. I used Mig enamel washes they do a premixed oil based wahs that stays workable for longer than acrylic allowing streaking and fade effects and easy removal if you overdo it with white spirit. I used a mix of medium and dark wash applied with a small pointed brush into all engraved details, around edges, rivets, roadwheels, etc, and it will flow around all the details due to the gloss finish. Use a flat soft brush moistened with white spirit to streak and fade the wash as required. Leave to cure for at least 24hrs due to the oil based wash. You can of course use GW or Vallejo acrylic washes at this stage but they don't allow as much working time. Matt varnish the whole kit, gloss the details - gems, vision blocks, lights and your done. You can add weathering powders at this stage for an even more earthy or dusty look but I'm not sure it's needed for a tabletop model and will probably leave my alone. Hope this covers it If you have any questions I'll do my best to answer them but many of these techniques are lifted straight from our military modelling and railway modelling cousins. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/221844-baal-predator-and-dc/page/2/#findComment-2653281 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Weasel Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 damnit, why can't i not hav e 4 kids so i can get a real airbrush and not the GW one.. i cna't get a smooth coat of anything but foundations with that thing... thanks for the info, i dodn' tknow that mig made oil based washes... now i need ot find those, because yes the gw ones are great, but dry fast Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/221844-baal-predator-and-dc/page/2/#findComment-2653312 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christian1138 Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 Sorry but I cant see them. Can someone tell me why? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/221844-baal-predator-and-dc/page/2/#findComment-2660763 Share on other sites More sharing options...
vahouth Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 Me neither. Bandwidth exceeded. :) Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/221844-baal-predator-and-dc/page/2/#findComment-2660777 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brom MKIV Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 what vahouth said x 2. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/221844-baal-predator-and-dc/page/2/#findComment-2661247 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bat33.1 Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 Pics back up now :D Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/221844-baal-predator-and-dc/page/2/#findComment-2664925 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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