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Shadow Crows


Revenant Autumn

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"We are scattered, we are lost, but we are not yet dead. We become Crows now, until the 10th flies high once more." - Commander Korvydae, Shadowcaptain of Raven Guard 10th Company, “The Shadow Crows”

 

Greetings all! I have been lurking for quite awhile, and have learned much from these forums. Over the last few months I finally made the plunge into owning a Marine army, and I am at a point where I would like to share it with you all.

 

I know not everyone is behind the idea of counts-as ideas, but I hope I have put enough thought and effort into making my army fit in both fluff and readily identifiable units. If you are not interested in backstory or any of that, feel free to skip down to the pictures :lol:

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Thoughts Behind the Army:

 

The army has grown from my desire to try something different from my Tau army. I still enjoy my Tau and the strategies they employ, but I felt I was missing out on whole sections of the game. The things that attracted me most out of a possible Marine army were beakies, lightning claws, jump packs, and dreadnoughts. As I learned of Raven Guard, they piqued my interest a good bit, but I wanted to put my own twist on things. Similarly Blood Angels interested me with their options for a much more specialized jump pack army. I already had a red army however, and was not too interested in the successor chapters. So I have done my best to carve out my own little custom force. As with the modeling, the backstory is still very much a WIP, so feel free to make suggestions or rip it to shreds.

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Backstory:

 

A dread shadow has fallen over the Raven Guard. Only a decade ago a handful of recruits would die from rejected geneseed. This was an acceptable loss as part of the ritual of modification. But the loss of an entire initiate class was unheard of. Then another class mortally rejected, and another. Already a poorly replenished chapter, the loss of so many dealt a serious blow to both manpower and morale. In the back of every raven's mind lies the genetic memory of the modifications that their Primarch wrought millenia ago. Corrupted geneseed had struck the chapter before, and they had paid dearly for it.

 

"Adapt or die." Captain Korvydae of the 10th company vowed to seek out a solution, no matter the cost. His task force formed into a shadow chapter, insignia identifying them as Raven Guard was obfuscated into a new chapter. Any Inquisitive eyes that caught wind of what Korvydae was seeking would be led into following a successor chapter that did not officially exist. Such was the secrecy within the Raven Guard that only the Chapter Master and a select few Captains would know of this gambit. Korvydae hoped to find salvation through retracing his progenitors steps in their chapters darkest hour after the massacre on Istvaan. The Captain would be wholly unprepared for the price of such salvation..

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Pictures:

Click for slightly larger sources.

http://www.revenantautumn.com/Wargaming/DanMini210.jpg

 

http://www.revenantautumn.com/Wargaming/DanMini192.jpg

 

http://www.revenantautumn.com/Wargaming/DanMini193.jpg

 

Scouts:

http://www.revenantautumn.com/Wargaming/DanMini189.jpg

 

Furioso Librarian:

Converted out of a venerable dreadnought. A sanguinary guard helmet and greenstuff, and a dreadnought legpad made the hood, and an upside down plasma gun and plasticard for the force weapon.

http://www.revenantautumn.com/Wargaming/DanMini187.jpg

 

http://www.revenantautumn.com/Wargaming/DanMini200.jpg

Priest:

I plan to make banners as "relics" for the moment, to count as blood chalices. If some inspiration strikes me for an alternative, I can always model it with a magnetized arm.

http://www.revenantautumn.com/Wargaming/DanMini196.jpg

 

Librarian:

Ezekiel has been given a new lease on life! I'm pretty happy with the conversion, though I may try reangling him. His facing doesn't quite work when on the battlefield.

http://www.revenantautumn.com/Wargaming/DanMini197.jpg

 

Assault Marine detailing:

Thrusters and some more weathering/basing. I hope to add squad and rank markings to finish them up, and then finish the other 15 marines.

http://www.revenantautumn.com/Wargaming/DanMini214.jpg

 

http://www.revenantautumn.com/Wargaming/DanMini216.jpg

 

Vanguard Veterans:

Nearly completely magnetized, along with regular assault marine sergeants, priests, and weapon specialists.

http://www.revenantautumn.com/Wargaming/DanMini212.jpg

 

http://www.revenantautumn.com/Wargaming/DanMini213.jpg

 

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Suggestions, questions, critique are all welcome!

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Odd...I clicked the Ezekiel pic to try and get a closer peak, and I got linked to a picture of the standard bearer... :o

 

Oh well, at any rate, this is all looking pretty good. You're reds provide a nice, dynamic contrast to a dull and beaten up gray.

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Certainly! The robe wasn't my best work, but it blends in a bit better than it looks on these pictures. I believe I have relocated the back purity seal as it looked a little odd there.

 

http://www.revenantautumn.com/Wargaming/DanMini198.jpg

 

http://www.revenantautumn.com/Wargaming/DanMini199.jpg

 

I am still thinking through color choices for my honor guard, priests, and HQ's. While my Vanguard Veterans will have a lot more black still on their armor, I was thinking of matching Blood Angel gold units with the purple-tinted Tin that I have been using for bare metal on these troops.

I was trying to avoid metallic in this army however, so I am open to any other suggestions.

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I'll post up my powerweapon/jumppack method in a day or so. I've got a bunch to go through, so I might as well take step by step pictures.

In the meantime, I put a good bit of work into the VV and priest. Here they are with 1st stage basecoating.

 

http://www.revenantautumn.com/Wargaming/DanMini217.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Vanguard Veterans and Priest nearing completion (except for the jumppacks...)

Power weapon, banner, basing, and lots of jumppack exhausts will be up next!

 

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt150/RevenantAutumn/Raven%20Guard/DanMini234-1.jpg

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt150/RevenantAutumn/Raven%20Guard/DanMini233-1.jpg

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt150/RevenantAutumn/Raven%20Guard/DanMini235-1.jpg

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt150/RevenantAutumn/Raven%20Guard/DanMini232-1.jpg

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Vibrant lighting effects and flat, grungy armor makes for quite a display. Well done. Though I think you may have gone a smidge overboard on some of the darting-about poses...one or two of those guys look more like they're falling.
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very nice and inspiring! i'm awaiting the ingredients from FW to make up my RG terminator squad with LCs and TH. will be mkV marine style armour from the recent carcharodon model for torso and helmets.

i've 'ravened' up a Brother gideon for one of my THs and mr astral claws huron is the torso for my other TH. will post up when constructed and undercoated.

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Thanks all, I appreciate the comments!

 

@Firepower Whats with all them negative waves, Firepower? Sorry, I can't resist when I see your avatar :P Seriously though, I see what you mean. I'll check them out with finished jumppacks, and if they still look like they are tripping instead of ground-skimming I'll definitely angle them up a bit.

 

@Metal Apostle: My white: Multiple thinned layers, gradually lightening to white. I use vallejo, but I'll try to remember the GW equivalent.

  1. Starting from the greygreen or black basecoat, I apply 1-2 layers of a leather brown. You can see the VV in that state in the first WIP picture I posted of them.
  2. I then do a layer or two of thinned bleached bone, mixing with brown first if the coverage isnt working. Repeat until a solid bleached bone.
  3. Once I have a clean layer of bone (no dark splotches) I begin thin layers of white. It is important to be building off of a very light basecoat, and bone or light gray work the best. After 2-3 light coats the white is looking pretty good. With white I am extra careful not to work on the next layer until way after its dry.I usually apply these and then work on other parts with a different brush.

 

@Badgermeister sounds good! I actually de-bloodangelified my Space Hulk terminators, but I am unsure if I want to make them Raven Guard or not. I'm not likely to use terminators in this army, so I might just take the opportunity to paint another chapter for the set. I'd love to see your stuff though!

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@Firepower Whats with all them negative waves, Firepower? Sorry, I can't resist when I see your avatar :)

 

Woof woof! That's my other dog impression... :lol: One day I'll figure out a way to modify my Vindicators so that they actually shoot paint ^_^

 

Anyway, yeah, I see the jump packs being the problem actually. If the model is roughly parallel to his base, the thruster of a jump pack (which is angled slightly forward) will look as though its shooting him down into the ground. Still, you certainly seem capable enough to recognize and fix problems on your own. Just thought I'd give fair warning ;)

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Feel free to light up your jumppacks! Here is a step by step of how I make mine.

I use P3 red ink, and vallejo sun yellow and white.

 

I start with basic black primed or dark drybrushed jumppack thrusters. I work on them in sets so I can maximize painting while others dry.

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt150/RevenantAutumn/Raven%20Guard/DanMini236.jpg

 

I start with a big blob of white in the two source parts of each thruster. I often have a huge crack there, so I will add thick white layers over the course of painting to fill it up. These will be my light source. I then take thinned whites and edge all the hard corners and lines that would face these white light sources. This needs a brush with a well kept point, but uses the paint on the edge of the brush. If you are not used to this method, take some scrap minis to try it on. Having the right amount of thinned paint on the brush will help immensly, so I usually wipe the first stroke on my thumbnail (subsequently I often end a paint session with a Jackson Pollock on my thumb)

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt150/RevenantAutumn/Raven%20Guard/DanMini237.jpg

 

Next I do the same thing with a thinned Sunburst Yellow, leaving white at the source dots. Well thinned paint helps again. Too watery and it will run into crevices, and too dry and you will be drybrushing a yellow that isnt as striking.

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt150/RevenantAutumn/Raven%20Guard/DanMini238.jpg

 

I cover everything in a thin layer of red ink, leave the white sources if you can, otherwise touch it up at the end. This gives everything a good heated area look.

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt150/RevenantAutumn/Raven%20Guard/DanMini239.jpg

 

I go back over some of the edges with yellow again.

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt150/RevenantAutumn/Raven%20Guard/DanMini240.jpg

 

I decided the red wasn't heavy enough, so I apply another red ink layer to certain spots away from the edges and touch up the white sources.

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt150/RevenantAutumn/Raven%20Guard/DanMini241.jpg

 

 

There you go! This is a good way to get used to simple source lighting. You can see that my powerfist/thunderhammers follow a similar lighting feel. My other power weapons follow a slightly different style, relying more on lava texture and gradient. I can post steps on them if anyone is interested.

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt150/RevenantAutumn/Raven%20Guard/DanMini242.jpg

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt150/RevenantAutumn/Raven%20Guard/DanMini243.jpg

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Well I didn't get much painting done this weekend, but I did manage to stitch together a quick tutorial on my power weapon approach.

 

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt150/RevenantAutumn/Raven%20Guard/swordtut.jpg

 

1. Black base coat weapon. I prefer to finish everything else, and leave the power effect for last.

 

2. P3 Khador Red thinned down and applied by painting little droplets, think like a slow tattoo gun motion. This means you need to keep the paint watered down and not very much on your brush. I try to make larger black sections by the base and back of the blade, and get smaller as I get closer to the business end.

 

3. 50/50 mix of P3 Red and Vallejo Sun Yellow. Same approach as step 2, but trying to get a thinner line.

 

4. Repeated again with straight yellow. I went a little heavy handed on the left, and it will show by the end.

 

5. Touch up the lave flakes with black, thin the lines down to make them look more like cracks. You can see again the right is looking better than the left.

 

6. Apply a layer of P3 Red Ink to the blade side, and quickly remove it from the tip and along the front of the blade (I use my thumb to completely remove it from the very edges, and then slightly from the nearby area) to make a quick gradient. If you want more red intensity you can repeat this step a few times, applying to less and less of the blade towards the base. You may want to go back with a black wash to darken the black parts if you do this.

 

7. When everything is dried, reapply some yellow in spots where multiple lines meet, and try to trace it down the length of the sword towards the little power node thing. Take some white and hit a few of the line intersections sparingly.

 

8. Apply a leviathan purple to the bottom half of the blade, and wipe away the top part again for a darkened gradient at the hilt. Repeat as necessary. You can see it hadn't quite dried when I took the pictures, but the end result is a dulling down.

 

 

There you have it, pretty straight forward. Its not better than layering 20 times, but it is certainly faster. If you don't like the gradient, you can just leave it at step 5.

 

From these last two tutorials, I have grown into a technique of inks and washes for lighting effects that has worked fairly well for my tastes. Inks intensify and saturate, and washes to dull and shade.

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