Balthamal Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 OK into the meat of the problem, I have recently become addicted to forgeworld kits and have forked out on some shoulder pads and a LR Helios conversions. The problem I've found, is that despite washing them in the recommended soft drink and also soapy water, super glue no longer forms a good adhesive. It's almost as if the glue hits the resin and is sucked up faster than I can apply it to get glued. Has anyone had this problem? If so any solutions would be greatly appreciated. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/223663-resin-trouble/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Khestra the Unbeheld Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 What glue are you using now? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/223663-resin-trouble/#findComment-2674421 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Balthamal Posted February 28, 2011 Author Share Posted February 28, 2011 Citadel Superglue Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/223663-resin-trouble/#findComment-2674439 Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarbonCopy Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 That's your problem. Go pick up some Zap-A-Gap. The Citadel stuff is simply not very good. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/223663-resin-trouble/#findComment-2674568 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lorenzen Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 agreed, i bought some gw superglue recently and just got annoyed with it for not being super or glue.. gorilla superglue is my weapon of choice nowadays. other things to consider and matt varnishing the model before assembly/painting and scoring the joining area a bit ala plastic glue. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/223663-resin-trouble/#findComment-2674585 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debauchery101 Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 im not sure what most people do for resin kits but heres what i have learned from others. step 1- make a sink/bath/bucket or somthing thats at least a few liters/gallons up with hot water. now if your hot water can melt plastic then do adjust so not to ruin your models. lol maybe use a test sprue or somthing if you think it may be too hot. also mix in 3-4 times the normaly amount of dishsoap youd use to wash dishes in said sink/tub or whatever step 2- let model parts soak in the hot water until the water cools down. this lets the material in the parts expand allowing oils trapped in the material somewhat be released. the dishsoap is what helps break down the oils to help with the release from material. step 3-use a soft bristle toothbrush or somthing similar with soft bristles to scrub the parts step 4-rinse and let dry off for a good half day or overnight. this is an important step because any trapped water in the porosity of the material can prevent bonding of pieces with superglue. which is the reason we scrub the oils off as well. step 5- any areas that will be glued together need to be sanded lightly with fine grit paper and once you have that i like to use rough grit and do 2 or 3 swipes across the area after to score it differently. step 6- pin if needed. you need to drill slow with these resin pieces because large parts that have lots of detail and drastic angle can sometimes have air pockes and if youre going too hard you could break the piece up if you drill into a pocket. step 7- glue! i use gorilla glue super glue. it dumps on citadel glue. zap a gap is great too but i dont see it often anymore at store. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/223663-resin-trouble/#findComment-2674618 Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneSniperSG Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 .. I'm suprised at this dislike of Citadel's superglue. I never have problems with it on my models.. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/223663-resin-trouble/#findComment-2674622 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwulf Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 I can't really speak regarding how good/bad Citadel's superglue is, because I've never used it. I thought it was more of a liquid-superglue than what I prefer. For years, I've used Duro/Loctite Super Glue Gel, and I was pretty pleased with it. I like it that the gel is less likely to ooze all over, and go places I DON'T want the glue to go. Lately though, I tried the Gorilla Super Glue Gel, and I have been very happy with that. I'm getting more use out of a single tube of the Gorilla SG gel, because the nozzle/cap seems very well designed, and actually helps to keep the threads from being glopped up. Just my 2¢. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/223663-resin-trouble/#findComment-2674657 Share on other sites More sharing options...
M33TGRINDER Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 the gripes i have of citadel glue.. 1-costs more than any other super glue out there and you get less. 7$ vs 5$.... ill take gorilla that also gives more 2-GW superglue has some very eye irritating fumes. i dunno why but i have noticed it more from this brand. 3-also to go with the fumes. i notice that the gw glue and a couple others seem to leave a course white haze around the parts that were glued together even when im going light on the glue. it really is annoying to try and scrape that stuff off smoothly from the aquila feathers next to the shoulder joint. honestly though ive tried every superglue from the 1$-9$ stuff and most are similarly effective as the rest in terms of strength and drying time. but some things to consider are fumes, container, viscosity and price per amount you get. my top 3 choices through my experience of building many models, fixing many broken things around the house and glueing many fingers together 1-gorilla glue 2-zap a gap 3-locktite Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/223663-resin-trouble/#findComment-2674681 Share on other sites More sharing options...
their kin Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 I am a fan of gw superglue. Could do without the brush tip. But yeah, the only way to avoid the white frost is to not get it anywhere but between the joints (which after 12 years I still can't always do). I know a lot of people who use gorilla glue, and I actually dislike it precisely because it's a gel. Zap-a-gap used to be poor quality, not sure if it's gotten better because gw super glue tends to be safe and change scares me... Anyway, resin for me just never works well with superglue (probably would work better with a gel like gorilla glue) but if you score your points of contact with sand paper or, as I do, with a knife it'll glue just fine. No matter how clean it is, with a liquid super glue it's just never going to stick on a smooth surface in my experience. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/223663-resin-trouble/#findComment-2674718 Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarriorFish Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 I use a gel super glue. Great for making sure something sticks especially when the bits don't quite match properly as is often the case with FW resin. Makes glueing metal and resin so much easier! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/223663-resin-trouble/#findComment-2674868 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debauchery101 Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 they actually sell gorilla glue that is not a gel, which is what is use now. i havent had any problems with resin yet. imo if youre having problems with resin parts staying together, you should probably be pinning them because like one guy said resin generally does not work as well with superglue. also like i said before the Prep of resin is the key to building it. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/223663-resin-trouble/#findComment-2675035 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Direach Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 I've always preferred Duro superglue, but 99% of superglues are the exact same chemical composition, so variation in performance is more likely due to method of application and, shall we say, user aptitude. :D Gently scoring the two surfaces to be superglued with a sharp exacto knife has always worked well for me; sanding and filing produce dust that you really don't want to inhale. I recommend using a mask if you're going to be sanding resin and working close to it. Scoring with a knife increases surface area without generating dust or removing material, but you have to be careful not to cut deeply (not a big worry with white metal, more of a concern with resin). Apart from that, Debauchery's observations and method above are spot on, and seconded by me. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/223663-resin-trouble/#findComment-2675043 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debauchery101 Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 I've always preferred Duro superglue, but 99% of superglues are the exact same chemical composition, so variation in performance is more likely due to method of application and, shall we say, user aptitude. :D Gently scoring the two surfaces to be superglued with a sharp exacto knife has always worked well for me; sanding and filing produce dust that you really don't want to inhale. I recommend using a mask if you're going to be sanding resin and working close to it. Scoring with a knife increases surface area without generating dust or removing material, but you have to be careful not to cut deeply (not a big worry with white metal, more of a concern with resin). Apart from that, Debauchery's observations and method above are spot on, and seconded by me. the dust is something i forgot to mention which is bad for you and the bonding. when i was saying to use rough sand paper i mean the big chunky carpenter type that will only leave scores and not dust. just a couple quick drags over the area slow and lightly. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/223663-resin-trouble/#findComment-2675063 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Balthamal Posted March 1, 2011 Author Share Posted March 1, 2011 Thanks for the response all. Very helpful. On the subject of GW superglue, I have to admit I find it pretty good in normal circumstances. Always worked nicely for me. Worked nicely in the case of plastic>resin surfaces as well. Only really started to fall to pieces with resin>resin so in the end I just pinned them together. Worked out fairly well. Will have a look at these other glues though. Any advice on where to pick it up? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/223663-resin-trouble/#findComment-2675383 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debauchery101 Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 well for sure the internet ie amazon usually has the best deals online but any hardware or auto parts store usually has the gorilla and locktite Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/223663-resin-trouble/#findComment-2675557 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwulf Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 well for sure the internet ie amazon usually has the best deals online but any hardware or auto parts store usually has the gorilla and locktite ^^^^^^^ THIS is correct. In the States, I go to the local Mart of Wal (that's Wal-Mart) and go directly to the painting preparation area, where they have all sorts of adhesives. I notice that Balthamal is in Wales though. Maybe the local DIY store would be the best call. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/223663-resin-trouble/#findComment-2675950 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Balthamal Posted March 4, 2011 Author Share Posted March 4, 2011 not to worry I went to the great portal of everything aka ebay and got a good deal on a few bottles of the stuff going to hit them hard this weekend and get a good foundation laid out for me army Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/223663-resin-trouble/#findComment-2678400 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seahawk Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 I know it's late, but most likely it's GW's superglue. I've never had a good one (only ever used one bottle anyway, and it was free at Games Day!). GW superglue has some very eye irritating fumes.You may have only noticed it more with GW's, but all superglues have irritating fumes...since there are small traces of cyanide in the formula, that's to be expected. Always, always have good ventilation when using superglue. recommended soft drinkReally? That just seems like it would get it...sticky. Soft drink is an absolutely terrible idea, as far as I know, and just makes things so much worse but I guess if it works for you... I always use Locktite now for superglue. It is, hands down, the best. I haven't had to pin a single model yet (Bloodthirster and Keeper of Secrets didn't even need it!), though my Lord of Change is shaping up to finally need it due to poor design. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/223663-resin-trouble/#findComment-2678442 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Nihm Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 I've never had any issues when using Loctite. It just works. Citadel glue on the other hand.. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/223663-resin-trouble/#findComment-2678451 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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