grimz Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 Hi, Building my first Rhino, I got all the FW upgrades just have a few questions: 1. Is it worth painting inside? 2. Should I glue the back ramp and side side doors 3. What should I do on the top hatches in order to maybe use them as Razors later? 4. Does anyone rock with windscreen wipers? 5. Anything other tips/tricks i should know about? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/224044-building-my-first-rhino/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanhausen Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 1. If youre in the mood, sure! 2. No for the ramp and you should magnetize the doors, so you can take them apart and fit sponsons and convert to a predator. 3. Simply dont glue the hatch, so you can flip or switch into other options (predator, razor, WW) 4. Dont understand :( 5. Read above :) Hope it helps! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/224044-building-my-first-rhino/#findComment-2679018 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Valerius Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 If you're feeling up to the challenge, don't glue OR magnetize your doors, but rather, do Exodus pattern Rhino doors: link. I've done it and it's a lot of messing around, but it is pretty neat. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/224044-building-my-first-rhino/#findComment-2679140 Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadesOfGrey Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 I find painting the insides totally worth it. At least, I have a bit of OCD so I cant stand that almost 50% of my model is invisible. Also, it's worth it as long as you don't glue the doors close. Otherwise it'd be pointless. If you're going to do the insides, I'm going to echo the link Brother Valerius posted. Being able to see inside from the side doors too is just cool. It can be a pain to get right, so don't start it if you're impatient or frustrated by fidly things. As far as being able to convert between rhino / razorback, just don't glue the top hatches. You can also try magnetize it for some extra oomph, but that isn't really necessary. Concerning windscreen wipes.. I have no idea what you mean? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/224044-building-my-first-rhino/#findComment-2679208 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chapter Master Ignis Domus Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 1. Yes, always. Make sure you paint before assembly, though. 2. Not the back ramp, but yes for the doors, unless you plan on hinging them. 3. Simply don't glue them. I recommend buying the Razorback normally. You get everything the Rhino has and more for two dollars, plus the turret mount allows you to stick a Predator or Whirlwind turret on it. 4. Eh? 5. Nope. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/224044-building-my-first-rhino/#findComment-2679215 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vincent Black Shadow Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 1. Not really, IMO. Unless you're planning on also magnetizing the back ramp (which will fall open on its own more often than not) and doing all kinds of mods to the side doors and top hatch so they open as well. 2. See 1. If you want to, sure. Side doors and top hatch are better magnetized for switching out for predator sponsons. 3. It will take a lot of finagling to have a rhino that both a) looks decent inside and :D is all magnetized with options. As a first timer, you can try your hand with either, but I think you'll grow frustrated with the project if you try to do both. 4. ... 5. Lots of tips and tutorials out there for magnetizing, conversions, and other fun stuff. A quick google search might give you inspiration. If you do decide to paint the insides or before assembly, be sure to leave the places where the rhino parts join bare so that your polystyrene glue will form a firmer bond. Polystyrene glue works by literally melting plastic together. If your joints aren't plastic-on-plastic, they're much more likely to come apart (though to be fair, a rhino is a model that's pretty forgiving on this, I've been playing with unglued rhinos until I have a chance to paint them up and magnetize them all...!) Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/224044-building-my-first-rhino/#findComment-2679229 Share on other sites More sharing options...
grimz Posted March 5, 2011 Author Share Posted March 5, 2011 oh the Forgeworld GK Rhino Front part has wind Screen Wipers on it, but it looks like you can cut them out leaving small gaps into the Rhino Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/224044-building-my-first-rhino/#findComment-2679408 Share on other sites More sharing options...
striker8 Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 Hi, Building my first Rhino, I got all the FW upgrades just have a few questions: 1. Is it worth painting inside? 2. Should I glue the back ramp and side side doors 3. What should I do on the top hatches in order to maybe use them as Razors later? 4. Does anyone rock with windscreen wipers? 5. Anything other tips/tricks i should know about? Ah the Rhino, that base vehicle of vehicles that has more variants than any other. I have 8 tanks using the chassis with most of the variants covered and have done over 50 others during painting comissions so the following is my observations and opinion. Never buy just a plain Rhino unless you think you'll never ever want any of the variants. I always get either a Razorback, or Whirllwind but if you have the money the Predator or even SOB Immolator is a valid choice just for the extrat bits. Now onto you specific questions: No 1. Painting the interior is all up to you and if done should be pre assembly of the hull. The choice will also affect your 2nd question. No 2. Agin it;s personal preference, but if you choose to paint the interior I see no reson to glue the ramp shut. I also don't thnki magnetizing the ramp is really needed if the hull is fitted and assembled correctly. The side door are a toss up, all my current rhino chassis I have all the side doors glued on except for the one I plan on making swappable to a Predator. So if you think you'll want multiple Preds later them magnetizing the doors is an idea to consider. No 3. Again never glue the top hatches on unless you leave the interior unpainted and want a fixed variant tank. Magnets are not needed here either, gravity does a great job keeping them in place during play and makes swapping the easiest. Just glue the two troop hatches together so they sit as one piece just like the Razorback/Predator plate and your golden. No 4. Not sure what yuou mean here but all the Rhino fronts both GW amd FW have wipers and once the cover goes over the windows you can barely see the wipers at all. I paint mine but by no means put any reall effort into them. No 5. The basic tips I always give are dry fit the whole tank before you even think of gluing anything( this counts double for FW parts), Get some cheap 6" quick clamps and some 1" and 2" spring clamps to hold things together while the glue sets( believe me by clamping you can remove 99% of any warpage during assembly and keeps the popped up fender thing to a minimum). Go slow and if something doesn't seem to fit, stop and determine why and fix it. After you do a few you'll find they go quicker and quicker with less issues each time. Since you said you have Fw parts I will implore you to go slow and fit the parts one at a time. You will find the front plate and doors will tend to the small side, it's caused by the resin shrinkage and is one of those things you'll have to get used to if you want cool resin stuff, you can often use bits of sprue to support the edges and fill in the gaps with Green stuff or squadron putty. The first time will be a learning experience so don't get to frustrated. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/224044-building-my-first-rhino/#findComment-2679529 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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