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hmmmmm....

 

I've been using GW paints for 3 years now (for as long as I've been in the hobby) and I find them most excellent. Please provide some details and insight about your experience with the product, and your experience in the hobby in general. Are you a golden demon painter who is trying GW paints for the first time? Or are you a first time painter expecting golden demon results?

 

more info please!!

Funny that. I have been using GW paints for nigh 18 years...and when something muck up, it is usually not the fault of the paints, but rather the painter... ;-)

 

Regards,

Master Ciaphas

 

 

Don't try and use logic :ph34r:

 

"What can men do against such reckless hate?"

For as far as we all know, GW paints are full garbage indeed. Imagine the sheer talent of those winning GD with'em, these guys are mutants !

"Now tell me, why didn't u write anything during your exam ?"

"That's not my fault sir, my pen failed to work"

"..."

Ha ha ha seriously.

 

DS

*snip* when something muck up, it is usually not the fault of the paints, but rather the painter... ;-) *snip*

 

Quoted for Truth.

 

It's the same in the case of most tools; a tool is only as good as the person who wields it. Give a world-famous artist fingerpaints and no brushes and they won't do as well as they usually do, give a primary school student world-class artist tools...well, you know where this is going.

 

I've been using GW product (paint, glue AND brushes) in all things to do with my Deathguard (and other armies I've used) for over 15 years, never had problems with them. Yes the consistancy of the paints can sometimes be a bit thick for my liking, but that's what 5-times-filtered tap water brought to just above room temperature is for.

I think we have a case of "user error" here- the problem lies between the chair and the miniature/paint brush. :)

 

"My minis turned out like teh suck, so GW paints, which people have been using for decades to produce quite nice miniatures, obviously suck!" Gotta love that sort of sentiment. :ph34r:

 

It is almost guaranteed that you should start off learning the technical skills of painting. Start with the basics- wash and drybrush. Learn different methods for doing both(there is not just one way of doing either). Then go to free hand highlighting to practiced control. Then to freehand painting of emblems/symbols for superior control. As with anything, practice makes perfect(or perfect enough). And for gawd's sake, thin your paints just a tiny bit and paint multiple thin layers rather than paint one thick layer to cover faster because you are impatient. Whether or not some or all of this applies to you, follow the advice and you'll get better results.

 

Lastly, if you can't draw your way out of a paper bag then you might simply not be artistically gifted, meaning you must work hard to learn anything about painting too(but it can be learned). Don't give up. :P

The only GW colour with which i was displeased was the White Sprayprimer because it needs near ideal conditions to be used well.

Skull White is also quite annoying because of it's low opacity, but this seems to be a problem that most whites share.

 

 

Have you tried hot water for that white spray primer?

I've never had problems in general with GW paints. Certain colours are a bit iffy with their coverage, in particular I struggle with Kommandi Khaki and Blazing Orange. But others are really excellent, such as Rotting Flesh or as others have said Hormy Purple. Just make sure you water down and do several layers if they don't cover particularly well, but people should do this anyway.

Except for very bright greens I've found that GW are one of the easier paints to use.

 

They start out thicker than Vallejo paints which allow you to thin them yourself to perfect consistency.

 

They also aren't as rubbery as the P3 line which I find makes blending much easier.

I've never had problems in general with GW paints. Certain colours are a bit iffy with their coverage, in particular I struggle with Kommandi Khaki and Blazing Orange. But others are really excellent, such as Rotting Flesh or as others have said Hormy Purple. Just make sure you water down and do several layers if they don't cover particularly well, but people should do this anyway.

 

I totally read that wrong. I was thinking... so does that mean the paint is sold rock solid? :P

 

I can say I've never had any problems with GW paints insofar as application is concerned. Even colors like Skull White, Sunburst/Golden Yellow, etc. I find easy to work with, although granted they take a little more work time to build up. In fact, the only issue I have with them is the terrible paint pots; they get progressively worse and worse, and just can't compare in this regard to P3 and moreso Vallejo (those eyedropper paint tubes are amazing and fantastic). The only reason I use GW paints almost exclusively is that the only way I can get any other brands is to order online (makes replacing them a pain).

 

 

DV8

complete waste of my money, almost ruined a unit of marines. need other selections any help?

Bad as you might think the paints are, the only real way they could have"ruined" what you were painting was if you have a cack-handed painting style!

 

I'd love to know at what point the potential ruin of the minis was realised!

 

"Hmm, this looks too thick to me...best clart it on there and see if it ruins me marines!"

 

:P

I've Hormy Purple

 

I totally read that wrong. DV8

 

me too, though i thought it was excited!!

 

kinda reminds me of the time when i worked in store and an old granny came in and asked for a "Hot Tortoise".

 

there was also the time when toy story was released that i got a phone call asking if i had a 14" woody......

 

 

on a more serious note, i've been in this hobby for around 20 years, never had a problem with GW paints - except sunburst yellow....

there was also the time when toy story was released that i got a phone call asking if i had a 14" woody......

 

Please tell me your response was: "Well I'm not one to brag, but..." :P

 

on a more serious note, i've been in this hobby for around 20 years, never had a problem with GW paints - except sunburst yellow....

 

If you're working on a black basecoat, try starting with Iyanden Darksun, and progressively mixing in Golden and/or Sunrubrst until you get pure yellow. You can even add a bit of white for sharper highlights. On a white basecoat, consider doing the same thing, replacing Iyanden with Vomit Brown. Just keep your paints thin and do lots of layers.

 

 

DV8

Other paint options:

 

Reaper master series: very good pigment/coverage, come in sets of 3 (shade, base, highlight). I haven't had the chance to pick any RMS paints up yet, but I've heard nothing but good things about them.

Privateer Press Formula P3: great paints (my personal favorite line, VGC a close second) with some very different colors than the other ranges. Superior coverage, and some beautiful colors that aren't in the other ranges. Most colors dry with a satin/flat finish much like GW paints.

Vallejo game color: very similar color range to GW, paints are thinner out of the bottle but still have good coverage. Most colors dry pretty flat.

Vallejo model color: similar body to VGC, but maybe a bit more pigment, different amount of medium, and dries flatter-than-flat. VGC is more durable than VMC since it has more acrylic binder.

Rackham paints: much thicker paints. Pigments are coarse in comparison to other mini paint lines, almost like a craft paint, and will dry with some texture. In many cases this is undesirable, but in others it's exactly what you may need.

Coat d'Arms - these are the paints that used to be citadel paints in the 80's and 90's. If you ever owned citadel paints with the hexagonal pots, that's these guys. Satin finish, decent coverage.

Make-your-own: go to the art store, buy some high-quality artist-grade acrylic paint, inks, medium, etc. and mix your own paints. This is a lot cheaper than buying pre-mixed miniature paints, but also takes more practice and effort.

 

That said, citadel (games workshop) paints are not bad, and it is possible to get a very nice result from using them exclusively.

 

May I suggest that you practice some on some spare miniatures before committing pigment to your game pieces? You can buy job lots of cruddy old minis off of eBay on the cheap, and use them to hone a few simple techniques to make your "good" stuff look nice. The stuff you see in the magazines and on the box covers has been painted by professional artists with years and years of practice and in many cases formal training. You can't expect your first paint job to look like that.

sorry guys i was just having painters rage last nite i can never get the GWS to flow the way i want them too, it's usually my reds that do this too me! and i would say im a fairly good painter, i'll post some pictures in the hall of honor tonite, i have found a few reds that i am going to try, and see how they come out!
Red is always an ass colour to try get nice. But I've had nothing but good news from the GW reds. I've found that Skull White isn't as smooth as the others, but that's about it. Oh and the tubs are poo. I've got some colours from back in 1993 that I still use because I can get a really good seal on the lids, but I've also had tubs go bad inside a few months! That's the only thing that Grr's me about it.
The only GW colour with which i was displeased was the White Sprayprimer because it needs near ideal conditions to be used well.

Skull White is also quite annoying because of it's low opacity, but this seems to be a problem that most whites share.

 

 

Have you tried hot water for that white spray primer?

 

 

Can you elaborate on this? I found the skull white didn't give a smooth cover like the black does(enough to paint over, but the coat was very runny and came out uneven when it dried), and I don't understand what yer trying to say here, should i boil the can first?

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