Heavy Metal?

[Zincite]

(I assume that this is allowed, since it's about the modeling rather than the model itself.)

 

So I've been thinking about getting a Hive Tyrant now that the Bank account allows. But keeping this more as a generic conversation:

 

With larger, metal, models (Eg - old Dreadnoughts, think the old Bjorn model that was re-released a month or two back, but doesn't seem to be there any more) do you need more than simple GW superglue? Pinning? Super-superglue? Greenstuff? Other such things that I can't be bothered to list?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

(Edit: Spelling, wording, Etc)

[Rider-75]

as far as i'm aware the hive tyrant is all plastic?

[KaosRaptor]

I haven't had a lot of experience with metal models, but I did just have a go at a Bloodthirster...

In my experience with that GW superglue worked fine, though pinning was a neccessity in many places, especially the wings and arms. If the Hive Tyrant has plastic parts then I guess pinning won't be so critical for those, mainly just metal-to-metal. Greenstuff was required in a few places (again, on the arms and wings), but it was pretty simple all told.

 

What I'm trying to say is usually you can get away with superglue, a medium-high amount of pinning, and minimal Greenstuff. Hope that helps.

 

(Edit: Spelling)

[Tanhausen]

IME, anything that isnt plastic-plastic (which you can do with plastic cement and vices to hold it in place), you have to pin or it will have a high risk os snapping during transportation or use.

[Chaoswolf]

IME, anything that isnt plastic-plastic (which you can do with plastic cement and vices to hold it in place), you have to pin or it will have a high risk os snapping during transportation or use.

 

 

Agree 100%

[Zincite]

@KaosRaptor: Thanks, that helped a lot. In particular, did the torso-leg connection (Does it have one?) need any special care?

 

@Tanhausen: Thank you!

 

:D

[Gurth]

There are really two or three steps to working with metal models:

• Clean the joints until they shine using a copper-wire brush (clean the rest of the model while you're at it);
  
• Drill holes in the parts to insert a pin (this step is optional, but I'd recommend it for small joints and/or heavy parts);
  
• Glue the bits together with two-part epoxy glue (including putting glue on both sides of the pin, if you use one)
  

Don't use superglue for models that get handled a lot and may suffer the occasional drop to the table or the ground — joints are much more likely to snap if they're superglued than if you used epoxy.

[tumblebomb]

Epoxy ++, I use it an awful lot these days. Get a 15min cure time, prep all pins and joints depending on model complexity then do a few bits at a time. Give it 20mins or similar then go onto the next parts. Once dry if there are big gaps in parts you can add some spare glue to fill in gaps. Sure the stuff is messy and thick so try not to mix and use too much or it does splurge out. My all metal minoature pirate from Reaper aint gonna break easily and its a fairly large chunk of metal.

[KaosRaptor]

@KaosRaptor: Thanks, that helped a lot. In particular, did the torso-leg connection (Does it have one?) need any special care?

No problem, did forget about the torso-legs join though. No greenstuffing was needed there, but for stability I pinned the thing twice (two holes, separated by maybe 2-3mm?).

The model was very top-heavy so that join was kind of critical, haha. :)

[Gurth]

Sure the stuff is messy and thick so try not to mix and use too much

The easiest kind to use is from one of those double syringes — make sure to get an equal amount out of each, and no more than a small drop is enough for most wargames figures.

 

As for more detailed instructions for the use of epoxy glue for wargames figures: put it onto something you can throw away, like a piece of paper or cardboard — or as I recently discovered, the smooth side of the backing paper of a sticker works very well. Stir the two drops together very thoroughly with a cocktail stick, toothpick or similar, then put glue onto one side of the join with that same stick.

 

Put the parts together, and find a way to support them. It's best to figure that bit out before you mix the glue, because once you've mixed it you have only limited time to work with it, and while it's hardening, epoxy glue acts more like a lubricant than like a glue — that is, bits that will stay together without glue (through friction) will often slide off each other as soon as you put epoxy between them. Blu-Tack works very well to hold parts to the model: either put a blob underneath the part to support it, or press a blob over the part to clamp it in place. In either case, some of the Blu-Tack may end up stuck in the glue once it's hard, but you can get most of it out by dabbing at it with more Blu-Tack, then simply painting over what remains :)

[Hemal]

Guys keep this generic - specific board related models - Dreads, old skool SM tanks, Land Speeders, old skool attack bikes etc are all fair game...

[Zincite]

Guys keep this generic - specific board related models - Dreads, old skool SM tanks, Land Speeders, old skool attack bikes etc are all fair game...

 

I thought we were?

 

I realized large-ish discussions were banned but I've seen small non-B&C armies conversations pop up loads in topics over the while I've been here, since sometimes you do need to explain things. The part in my first post was showing why I was asking the main question (which was never meant to be just about the Hive tyrant on his own), then I replied quickly to Rider75's comment, clearing up his question, whilst still continuing the main conversation. And last I heard, Daemons are still allowed here? I've read the B&C rules, and wouldn't deliberately break them in any way whatsoever.

 

But... on with the generic conversation. B)

 

1: What does shining the parts with a copper brush do?

 

2: Thank you for the detailed epoxy glue help, I've been looking on the Interweb for it, and there's (like all other modeling supplies) a million and one places to buy it from. Is there a particular brand that you would recommend?

 

Thanks again to all for the help!

[Tanhausen]

If its a hard brush, it will mark the metal with smal channels. If its soft, it will burnish it and remove dust and similar. IME, just a soft quick filing is enough, in order to do some scrapping that provides more adherence surface.

 

Araldite is nigh indestrutible when dry...but cures very slowly. When I pin, I usuall do some 3-5 mm depth holes and glue both the pin and the parts with superglue...its more than enough if you are careful when handling the mini.

[Gurth]

I thought we were? :rolleyes:

Yeah, that post has me puzzled, too …

 

1: What does shining the parts with a copper brush do?

It removes the white/grey crap left over on the parts from moulding. The effect of it is that you will be glueing metal to metal, rather than a layer of oxides, mould release agent, and more to another layer of oxides, mould release agent, and more :P

 

Is there a particular brand that you would recommend?

I always use Bison but partly that's simply because it's a brand available in just about any hardware store in this country ;) I'd advise you to just go to your local hardware store and ask about quick-setting epoxy glue — 15-minute of 30-minute or something — and preferably in a double syringe instead of in separate tubes. You don't need large quantities.

[Hemal]

Apoloies I menat generic in terms f techniques - lets not discuss the contents of the Hive Tyrant kit....

[Zincite]

Deleted reply to Rider75's comment, and changed wording on some of my other posts, including OP. All ok now? :yes:

 

Got the kit, and with blood, spit*, super glue, pinning, and a little milliput it seems to be fine. Though after the fun of pinning the right leg, I think I'll try that epoxy glue next time. If only my patience allowed.

 

But thank you to all, you've been a great help! Any other wise words for the uneducated?

 

*Blood from when I stabbed myself with the drill, and spit from this Tutorial..

[Tanhausen]

But thank you to all, you've been a great help! Any other wise words for the uneducated?

 

Er....eat your vegetables? :)

 

And dont be lazy, it doesnt pay.

 

Just imagine spending hours on the model, doing a great job and one day you set the model too hard on the board and the leg snaps because it only had glue...it happened to me 15 years ago with an Ariel model from wood elves Fantasy...I got so angry she's still wip :P

[Gurth]

Though after the fun of pinning the right leg, I think I'll try that epoxy glue next time.

That is part of why I switched to it for most of the metal parts I assemble these days :P In the beginning, epoxy will probably seem messy, difficult to use, and not worth the bother — but once you get used to it, you'll find it'll result in much stronger models than using superglue will.