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Finished Golden Demon Model


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So started doing my Golden Demon model early this year because i forgot about it last year.

So this is beginning C&C appreciated:

http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/7258/img0005yz.jpg

http://img857.imageshack.us/img857/4540/img0007rn.jpg

http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/8982/img0008rp.jpg

 

Note im entering the under 18 so you realise im not trying to win Slayer Swords or anything

Edmund

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The blending on the blue is excellent. The NNM is on the right track too, but not quite there yet I think (can't really help beyond that, I'm no good at it myself).

 

The helmet is the one thing that seems kind of off to me. I've no problem with horns on a chaos helm, but the GS work looks clumsy compared to the paintjob. I'd suggest simply using one of the Chaos Knight helms from WHFB instead- they have that same weird bubble-full-of-holes helm design on one or two heads with much more detail.

 

My two bits. Still quite impressive, especially for a Neophyte :lol:

 

Edit: Ah, just noticed...I take it the details on the backpack like the skull and whatnot you just haven't gotten to yet? Planning on the same NMM gold I assume?

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Right thanks guys ill see about switching the helmet around and if anyone knows how i can improve the NMM that would be a help. And just so that people know iv only painted the armour and trim nothing else is finished.

 

Thanks Edmund

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Great start! For the NMM, you're on the right track but you need to push the contrast more between light and dark to make it pop out more. Refer to Vincent Hudon's article on painting the slayer sword winning entry - Magmatrax here: http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.p...howtopic=105449 It helped me rather a lot. I'm still learning to paint NMM myself but its a good technique to have under your belt. Do consider however the angles it will be viewed from when painting NMM. From certain angles it looks crap! (not your model btw, i just mean nmm in general :confused: ) I had the pleasure of seeing the NMM Tycho from the Blood Angel's codex at last years UK GD. From the front - amazing. From the side - brown crappy paint job ;)

 

The armour is coming on really well. I like it a lot. One niggle would be in the last picture where the blending looks a little patchy and ragged. When you blend, do you paint only in one direction? If so, consider varying the direction. When i do a layer, i paint it one way, then perpendicular brush strokes to smooth out the blend. Then a fine glaze over the top to bring it all together. By working different shades of glazes over the blends you can really get a fine graduation going.

 

Also, consider a small scenic base for your entry. A 25mm base is a bit barry basic for Golden Demon. A 40mm base with some small scene or decoration will give the whole model life and purpose. If you look on CMoN, many good paint jobs are dragged down by a shoddy base.

 

Last of all, god help us when you hit the other Golden Demon catagories. Keep on improving on that standard and i'll be reading about you in 'Eavy Metal soon!

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Thank you very much i will have a read through the NMM article. But as to the base i was told you have to enter your model on the base they would normally sit on. Insaying that i will probably make a scenic base to go along with it.

 

Edmund

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So did some more work on the model and changed the head so here we are:

http://img848.imageshack.us/img848/5427/img0009tk.jpg

http://img806.imageshack.us/img806/1252/img0007tl.jpg

 

If someone knows how i should paint the horns that would be a help

 

Edmund

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Sorry, won't be of much help concerning the horns, but I can tell that the sword needs more contrast especially on the "shadow side", meaning blending the darkest areas almost until you've reached true black.
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That was pretty much exactly the head I was thinking of :devil: . For the horns, there are two ways you can go about it. One would be to play to the ridged texture- dark browns in the recesses and a bone white along the raised ridges. The other would be to start dark at the base and fade into a bone white towards the tip (this is more commonly used for smooth horns, and may not work so well on those). I would go with the first, while painting the three spiky points on the side of each horn and the pointed tips with the same NMM technique you're using for the armor. However, since both the NMM and the bone would be shades of brown, it might work better to use the blue on the spiky bits for the sake of contrast.

 

The sword is looking awesome, but I'm not sure about the light bluish gray line you have running along the edge. If you do the NMM right and with an equal fade on all the surfaces, a divider should be necessary. Right now though, the white fades appropriately about halfway down the base of the sword, while the edge fades into black almost immediately after the tip.

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@WNxKilljoy- For the gold trim i used a technique called Non Metalic Metal or NMM its basically painting with browns and yellows but creating contrast so that it appears to shine like a metal. If you read this article http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.p...howtopic=105449 it explains how to do it alot better than i could. Also its a really hard technique it took me about a year just to be able to paint it like i can which is half as good as most people so if it doesnt look good dont get discouraged. Also I would probably not try to paint NMM till you can blend quite well.

 

Hope that helps

Edmund

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Been painting for a couple hours and thought i would post the update also built the base well most of it:

 

http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/8369/img0005t.jpg

http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/1934/img0006ry.jpg

The bottem of the banner is not done i will paint it to look like teeth also.

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@WNxKilljoy- For the gold trim i used a technique called Non Metalic Metal or NMM its basically painting with browns and yellows but creating contrast so that it appears to shine like a metal. If you read this article http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.p...howtopic=105449 it explains how to do it alot better than i could. Also its a really hard technique it took me about a year just to be able to paint it like i can which is half as good as most people so if it doesnt look good dont get discouraged. Also I would probably not try to paint NMM till you can blend quite well.

 

Hope that helps

Edmund

 

Bad link mate :)

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For the horns, there are two ways you can go about it. One would be to play to the ridged texture- dark browns in the recesses and a bone white along the raised ridges. The other would be to start dark at the base and fade into a bone white towards the tip (this is more commonly used for smooth horns, and may not work so well on those).

The second style is really great for preserving the model's silhouette; it's very easy for your brain to interpret the large oval formed by the horns as the "head shape" (kind of like how a beehive hairdo implies miles of forehead). You don't want that, since it gives your figure an unshakeable sense of bobble-head-ness for no obvious reason. Beyond the inherent silliness, viewers often don't realize the cause and become uncomfortable with their inability to either explain or move past the sensation.

Putting a lower light value colour on the horns where they join the helmet can sink them into the background there, which lets your eyes skim over them when they're tracing the shoulder and head shapes.

Another way of thinking about it: the brighter, attention-drawing part should occur at the tip, as that makes your glance-response to them anchor from the point then follow down, until attention is drawn off by encountering the brighter armour of the helmet (at which point you estimate/assume the rest of them without really looking). In addition the colours at the base should be lower intensity than the helmet colours in order to avoid drawing attention away from the helmet (which makes you to skip examining the face!).

You can do this with ridged horns too, just restrict the effect to the recesses only. The ridges themselves should brighten very little, but the crevices should start dark and move towards the ridges' colour.

Since your colour scheme is primarily blue-green with accents in yellow-orange, choose a range of browns with very little red in them... you have a cohesiveness between your first colours because they're nearly opposite on the colour wheel, but both on the same side of the blue/orange axis. Red is the only primary on the other side, so its absence feels deliberate... keep that. I'd try a dark khaki type brown to work up from.

In case it helps show some of what I'm on about: (horn gradient just done fast in paint)

gallery_55880_5095_80350.jpg

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  • 3 months later...
Excellent work, but after that elaborate freehand on the banner his shoulderpads look rather bare by comparison

 

this.

 

your work is fantastic, much better than many many people. but as said, add some detail to the pads, could make the difference between 1st and 2nd

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Excellent work, but after that elaborate freehand on the banner his shoulderpads look rather bare by comparison

 

this.

 

your work is fantastic, much better than many many people. but as said, add some detail to the pads, could make the difference between 1st and 2nd

No kidding, this is amazing :blink: but the shoulderpads will only benefit from the attention.

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