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HELP! Paint won't adhere well to Forge World model!


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Hey guys, I got a Forge World Huron in recently, and I had him soaking in water with dish soap for about a day following some instructions I found online about how the lubricant from the mold makes it so the GW paints don't stay on the model very well. When I pulled him out this afternoon and dried him, the model was STILL coated in the lubricant. So I've taken an old toothbrush and scrubbed at the model with dish soap on the brush, under running warm water, and there's STILL lubricant all over the model. I've gotten the more smooth parts relatively clean, but I don't know what to do! I'm in a tournament tomorrow and, being a :cussty painter, I can't paint a model after it's assembled! What do I need to do?
Give him a quick soak in petrol. I promise it won't do any harm.

Then wash him again without detergent

 

Never heard that before, brother. How did you find out petrol did the job? :sweat:

 

(Not that I disbelieve you but it sounds, I dunno, hazardous?)

Give him a quick soak in petrol. I promise it won't do any harm.

Then wash him again without detergent

 

Never heard that before, brother. How did you find out petrol did the job? :P

 

(Not that I disbelieve you but it sounds, I dunno, hazardous?)

I was stripping paint from an old metal model and it had a bit of resin stuck to it. After a day all the paint went and the resin was still fine. plastic is doomed though :sweat:

It helps to take whatever the resin is coated in off.

 

L

I have had this problem as well, particularly from forgeworld, any other resin stuff I buy never seems to have a problem....what I ended up doing was hitting it with a few thin coats of Testors Dull Coat....paint stuck fine after that.

 

Ashton

I've had this on a chaos warhound titan, or to be precise half of it. I had to send that half of it back as it was an issue with the resin used in the mold. I suggest you do the same and word to the wise, make a big deal of it and they'll throw some minis or a imperial armour your way.

Dawn dish soap is the best liquid detergent. When I was a mechanic, it was one of the few things I could clean off all the grease with, better than fast orange or the lava soap. Scrubbed with a toothbrush you should be good to go.

 

I saw that they recommend priming with an automotive primer. It'll probably cut through to the resin better than an acrylic primer.

Other note is. After clean the model by wash it & then building. Use varnish before undercaoting, this help to key in the paint & undercaot. Then varnish after the model is fully painted.

 

Just from doing my NQ to HND model making course we'd do this & also talk to FW during event they'll some time say this as well. As said the varnish just help the paint to key on. I never had any issue from doing this. Just make sure not to heavy varnish the model first, as last thing you want to do is block any detail.

 

IP

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