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Dremel hints and tips


Olis

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So. Got dremel stylus today - everything seems to be a-ok so far. ^_^ Except it wants my blood. :lol: Only a couple of slips thus far but I think I'll call it Satans Little B... you get the idea.

 

Besides taking a firmer grip, does anyone have any hints? Any particular heads that are worth getting? Any snazzy techniques that net great results?

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Careful about heating up the metal. I went for an epic grinding session and I heated the model so much it melted enough to fix a thin coat of white metal to my bit. Now that bit does not grind squat because it is as smooth as a babies but.

 

I got a large kit with about 40+ bits. I would suggest cutting bits as said above, and a few different grinding bits, cone shaped, cylinder etc. I think a pinvise is probably better for drilling unless you do a massive amount of it so i wouldnt really worry about drill bits.

 

There is also the possibility of getting an engraving bit. Not really for warhammer but it has its uses for some people.

I know what you mean when you say that the dremel got away from you. I learned that its best to have your hand firmly resting on your desk while using it. Additionally, I recommend that you let the tool do the work for you and not apply too much pressure your self. The dremel spins so fast that you really don't need to apply any pressure at all. This really allows you to focus more on what you're actually cutting/grinding off with a touch of finesse.

 

So far, I've used my dremel to grind out heads from numerous metal minis for some cool head swaps. I always hear people complain about how much they hate working with metal minis because of the difficulty to convert them. The dremel really throws that notion out the window. I have used it on plastic as well, but be sure to lower the speed. If not, at least you'll have some neat bits for battlefield rubble...

 

Hope this helps.

Thankyou for the replies, brothers.

 

@Brother Predacon

Hello! I think I may have had a cutting bit come with it. Haven't tried it yet though.

 

@Shadey

Thankyou for the advice (however I have managed to make my grinding bit a little more silvery than it was before. Oops). I do believe the bit I've moved onto now is a rotary bit - kinda bloody dangerous, this one. :P

 

@Esponjabob

I'll try to get this finesse down as quickly as possible. Otherwise SLB will have more of my blood. :) First thing I've done (well, second, really) with it is grind away the head of a Tyranid Hunter and replace it. Had to 'fix' the collar that I damaged but that was easy enough. Oh yeah, plastic = lower speed. Gotcha.

 

Cheers!

speed control is vital. too fast and you remove more than you think on each pass with the grinder ball bit, too slow and you can end up cutting too deep. right with this is the heat caution others have mentioned....i tend to keep a cup of clean water available if I know I am going to be spending a lot of time cleaning a model (damn you ultramarine metals!!!), that way i can drop it into the water if it starts to burn the fingers...yes...i have done that...

Grinding heads can be used to cut... to a certain degree. If you really want it to graduate it to an SBB, you can get the circular saw attachments. They are as 'mono-whatever' edge you can get. Scary fun.

 

Know that using disks make the dremel kick. You need to be ready for this. Takes a while to get used to. In fact, due to the grip, the stylus has the best control for this.

 

Get the carbide grinding bit. Its a straight stick with ribbed edges like a drill bit but tip is flat. Goes a LONG way...

 

The stylus however, is not the best in terms of reliability. The motor burns out faster than the traditional one, and the battery life is questionable. I've got friends who have it, 2 of which have died in the first year. Mine hit the 2nd before it did. The charger as well. Sadly, they were all out of warranty by then.

Yeah, using a vice is a really good idea, I just use the GW vise and it makes things easier and safer.

 

For bits I highly recommend Micro-Mark, I've had trouble finding bits that were small enough at hardware stores, but you can buy a good set at Micro Mark for $20 or so.

 

And I've had more trouble with plastic heating that with metal heating. If you need to be careful with your drilling depth (like when you're drilling a place in a backpack for a magnet), it's really easy to overheat the plastic and put the bit all the way through it, thus destroying your model. When dremeling plastic, go slow and let it cool every few seconds.

I did a tutorial on head removal ages ago:

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.p...=174049&hl=

 

It covers bit selection, avoiding the "melt", etc.

 

I'd also highly recommend wearing at least one work glove while working on metal minis, as well as glasses and a dust mask. I wear a pair of good, tough leather work gloves when I have to do any grinding of this sort, in case the bit catches in the metal, or skips off the surface onto my hand.

For grip I use the flex shaft...it obviously helps with control, not sure on motor wear.

 

I have a question about engraving. I want to engrave text into a large piece of resin (I know...dust mask or respirator) but I want the text to be small, flowing script. Any advice on tip, size and speed?

A couple of important things to consider using a dremel:

 

Firstly, if you are heating up the model a lot, slow down. you don't need to be taking huge gouges out at a time, instead use smaller passes. This can make the work smoother and also can help control issue two:

 

Keep a small WIRE brush handy, they are good for getting out those bits of metal that attach themselves to the bit.

 

Finally, like all power tools you don't need to put a lot of force into the piece you are working on. Ideally a suitable grip similar to holding a pencil should be about right...

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