Hieronymus Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 I am planning to machine and mechanize a Rhino from aluminium plates. I would like to attempt it for honing my craft and skill and should be seen as an educational project. It is in no way cost effective. I have read that people have mechanized Landraiders and Baneblades and also somewhere someone who mechanized a Rhino which I could find no details of. I would like some more information on what tracks, motors/servo's and internal workings where used. Currently I am sketching up the Rhino to fit the guts into it. I intend to make all the doors openable with hinges and a magnet lock. http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a64/OlMoth/RhinoWIP2.png Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adeptus-Alaska Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 Outstanding idea! I can't wait to see this thread progress. as for the cost effectiveness, eh who cares. Coolness goes a long way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hieronymus Posted July 9, 2011 Author Share Posted July 9, 2011 I am currently modelling on a 1:1 ratio of the mini. But I never found the Rhino true to its scale of carrying 10 marines. I have doubts/thoughts about upscaling it but then it would no longer be interchangable with GW parts so I would need to model every little detail. What do you guys think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hieronymus Posted July 9, 2011 Author Share Posted July 9, 2011 I just finished the chimney base. I still need to model the exhaust. http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a64/OlMoth/Chimney.png Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimdarkness Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 interesting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hieronymus Posted July 9, 2011 Author Share Posted July 9, 2011 I am a little familiar with the program I'm using but I'm definetely no pro with it. I never got the hang of making assemblies so this is a good learning experience for me. I fitted the chimney base's and i'll go on modelling the roof plate and front plate and 2 symmetrical plates wich are one with the roofplate in the sprue. But I can't machine it that way. The machine shop I work at is closed for 3 weeks so I have plenty of time to hone this drawing craft before I can produce it. I'm already thinking about making upgrade kits with sponsons and weaponry for the Predator kit and Razorback. I already have bought a Predator kit and will be buying a Razorback to model that too. And If i really got the hang of it I might buy and attempt a Vindicator. So that when our shop begins again in three weeks time I'll be able to test my designs and see if this works out. Either way I'll definetely model DA wing and sword symbols and wings on either sidedoor. C&C appreciated. What are your opinions regarding upsizing it? http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a64/OlMoth/Mountedexhausts.png Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
commander alexander Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 Perhaps you could go to thrift shops to find the internals you need from a toy. How large are you planning in making it exactly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hieronymus Posted July 9, 2011 Author Share Posted July 9, 2011 I am planning on making it the same size as a regular Rhino. But I'm considering some larger because I feel a regular Rhino is a tad small for 10 marines and a driver. But I am drawing and calculating for the size of a normal rhino. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew J Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 Are you going to make it a radio controlled rhino? Because that sounds awesome. I say stick with the normal size as you would not have to make all the accessories like you said. I think that makes the most sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hieronymus Posted July 9, 2011 Author Share Posted July 9, 2011 Yes, Remote Controlled. In the drawing fase it doesn't matter as I kan keep what I'm drawing or simply scale all I have made with a few clicks. My thoughts tend to be more on making it the same size yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hieronymus Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 I just decided I'll go banana's on this one and I will make my own hinged tracks and sprockets/wheels. Sketching them up now and I'll update when I have finished modelling them. I was stuck modelling the rest without measurements for the tracks and sprockets so I can get more progress once I have these measurements since I will have defined them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hieronymus Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 I have sketched up the roof and I have sketched up a catterpillar link. I have many doubts about fabricating the latter since they are so small (1cm wide) and so many but I think I can pull that off. http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a64/OlMoth/Roof.png http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a64/OlMoth/Tracks.png I will connect them with 0.5mm brass rods to make the treads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Montuhotep Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 This is going to be extremely impressive if you can do it - and based on these CAD drawings, I'd say that you have! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hieronymus Posted July 11, 2011 Author Share Posted July 11, 2011 I love this program. I finally worked out how to mirror the sides so I can sketch them in context of the roof and and when I change anything that also changes on the other side. I still have to see about fabricating it all and I have the most doubts about the tracks but I do love modelling this so I'll try to model as many SM Tankkits as I can. Due to rounding off the sizes to 0.25 mm etc I do get some deviations from the real thing. But I think the margin is minimal. I did have to add some small supports at the bottom for the axles of the tracks but I think that blends well with the original design. The inner plates are still a bit thick but I need that thickess on certain area's such as the back where the ramp will come. http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a64/OlMoth/Mountedsides.png Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hieronymus Posted July 11, 2011 Author Share Posted July 11, 2011 I deviated from the original model for the Wheel mounts on the bottom because the original situation would be hard to copy and I thought that I came up with a pretty good alternative. http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a64/OlMoth/BottomWheelMounts.png I also made the front and real slabs that are moulded as one in the sprue angled at the roof. But I will fabricate them seperately. http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a64/OlMoth/Frontandreadplates.png Tomorrow I will try to make a path for the tracks I sketched up to follow and connect the treads to a chain. And draw up the wheels and a sprocket to drive the tracks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hieronymus Posted July 29, 2011 Author Share Posted July 29, 2011 I have decided after a long time of thinking about it that I'm going to upscale the build and make it a Predator Destructor instead of a Rhino. Due to all the interior mechanisms and work that I'll need to put into it I decided on a build without openable doors. So now the dimensions will be 15Cm High. 24Cm Wide. 36Cm Long. Features I'll incorporate: Remote Controlled driving and turret moving. -Smoking corner chimneys. -Tracks with suspension system. -Laserpointer aiming for turret. -Working headlights. Features I'm thinking about or am researching: -Airsoft Autocannon. Right now I'm adapting my sketches and sketching up the Predator parts. Once that gives some significant results I'll update this topic with pics. And I plan to start fabricating next month. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midas Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 I want one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technoscream Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 Looking good so far, I'm pretty good with sketchup so let me know if there is anything you are struggling to do. My concern is that this will be too heavy to motorize, I think it would be better to keep this as a display piece and motorize a normal rhino kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hieronymus Posted July 30, 2011 Author Share Posted July 30, 2011 I'm not working with sketchup. I'm working with engineering CAD software called Solidworks. Everything I draw I can feed into programs to produce it on the machines in my shop. When I am finished with the drawing I can do a weight inquiry to see how much it weighs what I have drawn. I can run stress tests to see if it is strong enough and I can simulate all the movements to see if it will work in the first place. I'm pretty sure I'll find servo motors in the size I need to drive this. It's not gonna be solid aluminium but hollow made out of plates 12mm and 16mm tension-free aluminium. And It would miss my goal by far if I ended up with only a display piece.:P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kodopitharos Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 This looks really promising, cant wait to see some progress. What kind of machinery are you using to cut the parts? Are you using .stl files from solidworks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hieronymus Posted July 30, 2011 Author Share Posted July 30, 2011 We have 2 CNC milling machines in the machineshop where I work and a CNC Lathe. I'll export the views of parts into a Computer Aided Manufacturing CAM program to calculate toolpaths. I'll use Solid carbide endmills for the smalles mills I need and Powder Metallurgic HSS for the larger size mills since we have some nice light cuttings mills in that material. And the barrel for the predator and exhausts I'll make on the Lathe wich i'll program by hand into the machine since that is much simpler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kodopitharos Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 Ah pretty impressive. Im trying to get a milling CNC machine to get to work and Im having trouble with the .stl files. Looking forward to see how it turns out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Yellow Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 I work at an engineering firm but sadly do not have access to the CNC loveliness you have described previously. Would recommend that you don't make your own tracks and work with something off the shelf instead. Attaching every link with brass rod will drive you insane. That and you will need to attach rubber pads to each track (or most) to get any grip. I know enough about solidworks to recognise the pictures but use Visio for my drawings, I find it easier to draw 2D templates and visualise what it will look like in real life in my head. Then print and cut out, it's low tech but hey. Will be interesting to see how this develops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hieronymus Posted August 3, 2011 Author Share Posted August 3, 2011 Allright. Since the last time I posted I made some changes in my mind and in my design. First I discovered that 3x larger than the mini would be too small to fit fit stuff into it. So I decided I would go with 4x the mini. About half an hour ago I found out that 4x the mini is 1:14 compared to the "real" deal. Now I am thinking very heavily on upscaling that to 1:12 because that is one of the large scale tank miniatures norm. I also bought 2 Black and Decker drill machines to drive all this because there was a sale and they where very affordable that way. Think with me please.. I can also conclude that the places of the rivets on the miniature are very handy small bolt locations for constructing it for real. C&C welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hieronymus Posted August 4, 2011 Author Share Posted August 4, 2011 I have decided on 1:12 scale. And now I can upgrade from airsoft to .50cal paintball. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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