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What to use instead of gw spray and glue?


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Here is a recent thread talking about Krylon primers and paints, along with Testors. These are options available in the US, and widespread.

 

I use Krylon Flat White, and have used Krylon Flat Black in the past. I've even used Krylon Sunburst Yellow for a colored base coat and it worked fine. My friends use Army Painter as Trajan suggests, and they swear by it.

 

For glue I use Loctite super glue from Walmart, liquid or gel form depending on application, and my friends are fond of Zap-A-Gap brand glue. Some people swear by actual plastic glues, but I screw up too much and need the option of easy removal (I am not an advanced modeler).

Thanks for the responses. I sadly tried elmers brand hobby glue (is plastic glue) and its uncontrollable. Just trying to find cheaper alternatives as we rip through glue and primer being its my wife and i doing this hobby.

For white glue almost any brand will work. I will say try to avoid the school glue, it will stick sand down but I've noticed it starts to loose adhesion after a while. My prefered glue is the cheap white craft glue for wood and it's like $2 and lasts me quite a long time including comission jobs.

 

Plastic glue I recomend any of Testors except the blue tube nontoxic. The actual type is up to you and Testors has both liquid(solvent) and the gell like tube glue which I have a preference for. If those don't quite fit a good hobby shop should have an assortment to chose from.

 

For spray paint do a search here and you'll find options out the wazoo or take a trip to Wally World and look at the isle of sprays. The warning here is all srays will be safe on metal mini's but not all are safe on plastic and can cause crazing. So if you choose a paint you haven't heard of anyone using test it on some sprue or a min you don;t care about first.

For plastic glue, I use Revell polycement glue. It comes in a blue and yellow container and has a tiny little metal spout which allows for extreme precision glueing. It's very hard to accidentally spill it, or use too much and I highly recommend it for building plastic kits because of this precision. A lot of people complain about how the glue gums up the spout and blocks it up, but it can be quickly unblocked by heating up the end of the spout over a flame to burn out the gummed up glue.
For plastic glue, I use Revell polycement glue. It comes in a blue and yellow container and has a tiny little metal spout which allows for extreme precision glueing.

This. Absolutely.

 

It's really cheap and extremely presice! Mine ran out a while ago and I had to get the GW variant as my local model-train store was closed. It was awefull.

I swear by Zap-a-Gap, It works aswome and you only need a small amount so you never get any excess, it holds great and has given me the option of poping off arms to change things out (prior to my discovery of magnets) withough damaging the arms or torso, just pop off the arm, scrape off the old glue and away you go.

I use Testors model glue and paint for mine, always have for all my models. Also Model Masters paint, just be aware that here is paperish cap on the inside of the metal cap that tends to stick to the jar.

 

As for getting around the glue gumming up in the spout, I stick a straight pin in the nozzle when I get done with it and it keeps the channel clear since it won't melt metal.

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