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150 mm Imperial Fist Lexandro D'Arquebus


esinhorn

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I had this model for a while.

I was going to try to make him Mk4 but it was too much work and was'nt looking that good,so I changed directions.

Another of my all time favorite characters is Lexandro D'Arquebus from Space Marine.

I decided to make the big guy him after getting some brass etch from MeanBob.

I wanted the Lexandro Icon for the Left Pauldron but it was too small,so I moved it to the right as personal Heraldry.

I also got a Large Fist which is perfect size for the Chapter Badge.

Being the Pre-Heresy addict that I am,I had to add at least some pieces of armor from that period,for this I gave him Mk5 Greaves and Cod Piece.

I used a GW fist icon to overlay the Aqullia and added plasticard to reenforce the neck joint,make the armor more Fist style too.

He is built and Primed and ready for stage one,Hull Red undercoat as Armor primer,like they use for tanks.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f295/wilis516/002-82.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f295/wilis516/004-66.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f295/wilis516/005-52.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f295/wilis516/003-75.jpg

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I might be upset except I wholeheartly agree with everything said.

Cod stud is gone,too many peeps getting held up on that one.

I was thinking the same thing about the leg studs problem is I used my biggest bit,Looks like I am hitting the real toolbox.

I can pop off the rivets and enlarge the holes without damaging the model,one bit.

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I think the studs need to go altogether, the diameter of them is just too big. Look at this guy that I am working on;

 

IMG_5377.JPG

 

Those small studs are only 1mm, I am planning on adding some larger studs on the legs and such, but the largest I was considering going was 2, maybe 2.5mm. What your rockin' there is way out of scale. Next when you settle on a ball size, go and buy an appropriate sized drill bit, spend the few buck to make the kit look nice. Then what ever size ball you are using, cut that measurement in half, so if your using a 2mm ball, measure 1mm up from the end of your drill bit and place some tape on it as a marker, then when you drill the relief holes, they will all be the same depth, making the ball actually look like rivets. Alternatively, you can do what I have done in the above picture, and by some hex shaped plasticard, and cut the rivets by hand.

 

Ashton

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Good advice all around(especially the tape tip)

I kind of disagree with the scale(on the greave studs) once they are set in properly.

I am looking at the FW mk5 and the studs are comparable,would .5 mm less be better probally.

I'll reset one and reshoot it and you guys tell me what you think.

 

BTW awesome 150mm MK4,that was what I was going for originally but I could not pull it off well.

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I redrilled the holes a little bit wider so it is now close to a 1/3 of the way in.

I think half is too much,now the underside curve of the BB cannot be seen.

Thank you guys for helping me not put out a sub-par model

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f295/wilis516/002-83.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f295/wilis516/001-84.jpg

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Ok he is ready to paint the first part of the process was to reprime it black.

Before I was using Tamiya Fine Grey which is great for detecting imperfections and is sandable.

I then Used Alclad II Steel and Stainless Steel to spray on the first coat.

I am going to paint layers, Steel,Red Primer,Yellow and use making fluid for the paint chips and each stage.

Here is the model after the steel layer

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f295/wilis516/004-67.jpg

and here he is after the Tamiya Hull Red primer layer

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f295/wilis516/005-53.jpg

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I once again used masking fluid applied with sponge to preserve the red chips and have basecoated him in Iylanden Darksun

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f295/wilis516/005-54.jpg

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The only way to get a decent even yellow for me ;)

I have given him two layers of Golden Yellow,now I will let dry for 8 hours while I go to work and then give him one more coat of Golden Yellow

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f295/wilis516/006-43.jpg

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Here is the face,it took me a few tries on paper to get the design right

"A skeletal fist crushing a moon,dripping blood" is how it is described.

I also put it on the left side of his face for two reasons

First it had fewer creases but the most important is that it the side that faces away from your point of view,because I though it would be hard to do and look off.

But after seeing the pics how wrong I was I think I nailed it perfect

Also does this look like an olive completion to you or do I need to work it some more?

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f295/wilis516/007-36.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f295/wilis516/008-34.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f295/wilis516/009-31.jpg

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Tonight I finished his hearldry on his right knee.

From upper left

Terminator Honors,Necromundian Spider with T for Traizor Hive,Tyrannid symbol as he was in one of the first major exploratory battles as a scout,Command Skull

I have also painted the wrist comp dark angel green and coated it with Micro Kristal Klear to add a layer of glass on top

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f295/wilis516/002-85.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f295/wilis516/003-77.jpg

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The finished battle computer and left knee with company number.

The books never designate is company so I choose Third.

The three is also a nod to the orginal 3 Brothers from Trazior Hive.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f295/wilis516/002-86.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f295/wilis516/001-86.jpg

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That kit looks mighty nice in yellow. With studs. And Ian Watson flavouring.

 

I imagine Lexy's skin to be darker, but Imperial Fist geneseed features a functional Melanchromic Organ. After implantation his original skin colour is academic.

 

His heraldry is marvellous but the lines could afford to be straighter.

 

I'm a bit sad there's no way to model his synthflesh hand. No meaningful way anyway.

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The final basecoat is finished,just a few touch ups and then highlighting a few hard edges and the mask will be ready to remove.

The gold is far from finished still needs a few good washings

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f295/wilis516/005-55.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f295/wilis516/004-69.jpg

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Just a few fist notes. You said you went with the 3rd company but have painted 5th company shoulders (black). Also all companies of IF have red chest eagles, and denote vet status with a red strip down the cent of the helmet Like a mo-hawk). Now of course do as you like, but thought I would chime in with a bit of fluff. LOVE the work so far
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I knew that would come up.

I despise red chest eagles and I think all fists should have black trim like they were during the Heresy,however you are very correct on all points this is just pesonal taste for me really.

Here is the Tattoo a little better done.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f295/wilis516/006-44.jpg

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