What cases do you guys put your GK into?

[Fred Johnson the 3rd jr]

My last army (SW), with lots of normal PA marines, easily fit into a standard GW / Citadel type case. Well at least all the troops did. Used shoe boxes for the Rhinos. :D

 

But now I am doing an army of mostly guys in Terminator armor, with lots of models with halberds which are long and pointy and sticking out all over the place. And I have no clue on how to store / transport them. I know Battlefoam exists, but that's about it. And that seems a bit expensive. So what do you guys do?

[boreas]

I use something like this:

 

http://casesgalore.com/professionalseriescameracase.aspx

 

I can pluck the foam to put my models in. A 2x2 hole fits a termi, a 2x1 hole fit a PAGK with NFW, a 1x1 hole fits a PAGK with psycannon, a 3x3 hole fits a Dread, a 4x5 hole fits a rhino. Only the NDK might be a problem, but I haven't really tried to fit one yet.

 

And they're cheap enough that I bought 2 for my SM army and I can fit 2500pts (IIRC: 2 rhinos/whirlwind, 2 LS, 3 Dreads, 8 termies, 30 PASM, 1 termi librairian, 1 termi chaplain, 1 techmarine w/ servo harness).

 

Phil

[Wicks]

With my terminators I use the foam figure cases from GW,I cut one wall out and set you terminators in the space you will be able to stand them up.Next line them up and cut the walls out over the cut you made over the terminators.Then take a hobby knife and cut out the bottom of the foam on top over the terminators.You should de able to stand up through the holes in the top.

 

Good luck! :lol:

[Valerian]

Fred,

To transport my Grey Knights, I just made this display board:

Every model has a rare earth magnet superglued to the bottom, and rests on an appropriate sized washer. All of mine are the old metal models (and resin dreadnoughts from Forgeworld), and the magnets are strong enough to hold them even if I turn the board upside down. With light plastic models you won't have any problems. Another thing handy about this is that it is super easy to put models back, when they are removed as casualties. I just set the whole thing in the passenger floorboard of my truck, if I need to cart the army off to a game. You could easily do the whole thing over a weekend.

Here is a quick shopping list for building a board like this (I got pretty much everything from Michaels and/or Home Depot):

NdFeB Magnets (.250" diameter by .09375" thick discs)

2 sectional frame kits (1" deep)

Zinc-plated steel fender washers (1" diameter for power armour and 1.5" for terminator armour)

Black foam core (3/16" deep)

MDF hardboard (3/16" deep)

pine trim (1/2" by 3/4")

wood screws (5/8" slim)

4 plastic nail on glides (to make "feet" at the corners)

modeling sand and static grass (whatever basing material you use for your actual models to cover the board)

You'll also need a staple gun and a compass cutter tool.

Valerian

[DIDM]

Fred,

To transport my Grey Knights, I just made this display board:

Every model has a rare earth magnet superglued to the bottom, and rests on an appropriate sized washer. All of mine are the old metal models (and resin dreadnoughts from Forgeworld), and the magnets are strong enough to hold them even if I turn the board upside down. With light plastic models you won't have any problems. Another thing handy about this is that it is super easy to put models back, when they are removed as casualties. I just set the whole thing in the passenger floorboard of my truck, if I need to cart the army off to a game. You could easily do the whole thing over a weekend.

Here is a quick shopping list for building a board like this (I got pretty much everything from Michaels and/or Home Depot):

NdFeB Magnets (.250" diameter by .09375" thick discs)

2 sectional frame kits (1" deep)

Zinc-plated steel fender washers (1" diameter for power armour and 1.5" for terminator armour)

Black foam core (3/16" deep)

MDF hardboard (3/16" deep)

pine trim (1/2" by 3/4")

wood screws (5/8" slim)

4 plastic nail on glides (to make "feet" at the corners)

modeling sand and static grass (whatever basing material you use for your actual models to cover the board)

You'll also need a staple gun and a compass cutter tool.

Valerian

I like this idea

super easy to make and cheap. CHEAP is appreciated in minigaming

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/tyleroreilly/The_Grey_Knight_by_terekjet-1.jpg

[BLACK BLΠFLY]

I use a Battlefoam case with Pre cut trays for my termies. They have new trays cut specifically for halberds. Very nice case. :tu:

 

G :D

[The Holy Heretic]

I use aluminum cases from KR with appropriate foam

 

http://www.krmulticase.co.uk/

[Fred Johnson the 3rd jr]

I use aluminum cases from KR with appropriate foam

 

http://www.krmulticase.co.uk/

 

Yeah, I was doing a bit of research myself and was seriously considering KR (Battlefoam is just too expensive IMHO).

 

What do you think is the "appropriate foam" for GK TDA models?

[thade]

I'm leaning strongly towards battlefoam. I'd very much like a display board, but for display and not for transport; I'm too clumsy, frankly. The number of bumbs and things I drop (be it the display board or other things near the display board) puts the risk too high for them not to be enveloped in foam.

 

I have some Sabol cases that are good; foam's a little firm and cases a little soft (which is why I'm looking at Battlefoam). Price was okay, as these things go. Battlefoam is much more expensive for softer foam and stiffer cases. I've got one of the GW cases...which are stupid expensive and very limited in what they can carry, but I got it as my first case (i.e. before I had any tanks or knew anything).

 

I've seen more creative, budget solutions. For instance, rifle cases can be a bit annoying to pack with your army but they're cheap, have egg crate foam, and very, very durable; I've seen some people use those. Also some packing foam and a cardboard box will probably do you for a while as you save up for a more permanent solution. ^_^

[Gentlemanloser]

I use the Standard GW case.

 

One side has my PAGK/GKT and the other my NDK, 2 Dreads and 2 Rhinos.

 

The NDK takes all three layers himself, and for my GKT I take an internal wall of foam out to make the slot twice as big.

 

It's not fantastic, as the Sword/Halberd poses can cause problems. But it gets the job done. -_-

[RebG]

I use aluminum cases from KR with appropriate foam

 

http://www.krmulticase.co.uk/

 

Yeah, I was doing a bit of research myself and was seriously considering KR (Battlefoam is just too expensive IMHO).

 

What do you think is the "appropriate foam" for GK TDA models?

 

I got a KR case last week. The standard Terminator tray will fit the Terminators (obviously) but their halberds etc do tend to poke out a little. The depth of the trays is 1/3 the depth of the case so my Termies and their pointy weapons go in the middle with my PAGK above and beneath. Apparently their foam is softer than Battlefoam and it squashes out the way. To give you an idea - my Brotherhood Champion has a purity seal on his sword which pokes above the top of the tray. This tiny piece of less than 1mm thick plastic hasn't bent or broken despite my whole army stacked on top of him. I'm very happy.

 

One thing KR are very good for is, if you e-mail them what you're looking to transport, they'll talk you through what'll work best for you case.

 

I got the K-Lite (card case, simple satchel style bag) and it carries my 3 Rhino/R'backs, NDK, 10 Temries, PAGK x 15, Interceptors x 5 with room for another 25-ish PA and another 8 Termies and all for just less than £40 including postage. Like I said, very happy ;)

[nurglez]

I have a k-lite, as when I went to salute I got a free bag for it. 1 layer is enough to transport draigo and the paladins, while the double layer below holds my 2 DK's and a dread. its not a perfect fit, but none of my models have been damaged yet, and I can carry my whole army in it ;)

[Himinaru Kyosuke]

This is what made me sell my GK Army I was working on. I had 10 GK, 10 Termi, 1 DK, and a Thunderhawk. I had yet to build the lot of them... which makes me regret selling them as they're easy to transport in the boxes. Thanks for the posts though! I think I'll use a GW Case when I get the money for it, and my new Army built.

[NuclearMessiah]

I use Sabol Design's Division case (Sabol Design) You can even call them and explain what models you have and they will let you know what foams to use/buy.

[The Holy Heretic]

One thing KR are very good for is, if you e-mail them what you're looking to transport, they'll talk you through what'll work best for you case.

 

Yeah, just write and ask, you'll get some good suggestions ^_^

 

I've got three of their aluminum cases, with various foams for different armies :)

[Drachnon]

I use normal GW/citadel army cases, had one broken sword so far. Otherwise no problems.

[Valerian]

Apologies for the necro on this old thread, but I finally got around to typing up the directions for how to build a display board like the one that I built and posted above. I figured it would be worth posting the directions into this thread for anyone wanting to try it.

 

1. First, assemble your two sectional frame kits together; each kit should have a long and short end, and the two kits together will make a rectangle. Ensure you get the 1" deep kit, or the frame won't be deep enough to cover everything. They make different sizes, so you'll probably want to do some testing and measurements for the next step, to ensure you get a rectangle that is large enough, but not too much bigger than what you need. If your frame kit is wooden, you can nail on the 4 plastic glides to make "feet" at the corners. If the frame is a different material, then you can just use those sticky felt pads, that go on the bottom of dining room chairs, etc. (I'm sure you know what I'm talking about.

 

2. Cut your Black foam core (3/16" deep) and your MDF hardboard (3/16" deep) to fit within the frame that you made in step 1. You can have the good folks at Home Depot or Lowe's Hardware cut the MDF hardboard for you, if you give them the measurements. Sometimes you can buy the foam core the size you need, but if not, it is easy to cut to the right size with an eXacto knife.

 

3. Arrange your models as you want to display them on the Black foam core (3/16" deep); ensure every model has plenty of room for weapons, banners, capes, etc. Use a pencil to trace around the base of each model; you can set each model aside once you've got a nice outline of it's base.

 

4. Next, use your compass cutter tool (basically an eXacto knife attached to one of those circular compasses that you used in elementary school to make circles) to cut circles through the foam core. Cut along the outside of your pencil tracings, as you don't want the bases from your models to be too snug. For rectangular bases, like the ones for Bikes, just use a regular eXacto knife.

 

5. Now set the sheet of foam core (now with lots of holes cut out of it) on top of the MDF hardboard; you can use clips to hold it in place to keep the two from slipping. Get a staple gun, and staple them together; don't worry, the staples and the dents that they make in the foam will be invisible once you texture and base the display board. I used about 15 staples spread evenly in a pattern to hold together the 18" by 24" display board pictured in the earlier post.

 

6. This is probably a good time to go ahead and glue the zinc-plated steel fender washers into place. These will be inserted into the holes in the foam core, and glued onto the MDF hardboard that forms the foundation. I recommend a really sturdy glue, like a two-part epoxy, that will really hold them down. You'd be surprised at how strong those rare earth magnets can be, and they often don't want to let go. Again, use 1" diameter fender washers for power armour models, and 1.5" for terminator armour models. For Dreadnoughts and other vehicles, just use some trial and error; I found that four 1" washers would all go in edge-to-edge to fill the bottom of the holes where the big 60mm Dreadnought bases would go.

 

7. Now take the pine trim (1/2" by 3/4"), and build another rectangle that will nest in the frame. The fit should be nice and snug, so measure carefully before cutting and assembling. You can use a combination of wood glue and wood screws to hold it together.

 

8. Next, flip your display board upside down, so that the MDF hardboard is facing up, and set the pine trip rectangle in place on top, and wood glue/wood screw it into place (using 5/8" slim wood screws). Flip the display board back right-side up again, and leave it to let the wood glue set.

 

9. Now is probably a good time to work on "basing" the display board. I used a large crappy brush to brush on Elmers glue in sections, and then dumped sand on it to stick in the glue and dry in place (sand for fish aquariums at the pet store is really good for this). You probably want to go in sections, as the glue will tend to dry too fast to do the whole thing at once. Avoid getting any glue down in the holes where your washers are, or even too close to the edges of the holes. It's okay if just the sand gets in the holes, though, as you're just going to turn the whole thing upside down after a few hours, once the glue has set, to shake out and dump the excess sand. Also, try not to get any glue/sand within 1/2" of any of the outside edges, as that is where the sectional frame is going to go.

 

My Grey Knights already had been based in a "Wasteland" style, so I just carried that on over to the display board. Once enough sand was glued in place, I just spray painted the entire top black. After that dried, I started dry-brushing a few layers going from dark grey, grey, then light grey. It was very easy. Basically, you just have to do the same thing that you're already doing for your models, but on a much larger scale. You'll probably also want to finish it off with a spray from a matte sealer, just like you would to protect the paint job on your models.

 

10. The last step can now insert the foam core, MDF hardboard, and pine trim "sandwich" into the frame. You can use that epoxy again around the extreme edges and along the sides of the "sandwich" to help secure it in place.

 

11. Last, you'll need to superglue those NdFeB magnets (.250" diameter by .09375" thick discs) onto the bottom of your model bases. Here is an important hint: don't glue them to the middle; glue them toward the back of each model. These "rare earth" magnets are super strong, so if you glue them in the center under each base, you will have a really hard time pulling the model free from their slots. Like I said, glue them underneath, but toward the back of each model. Then, when you want to remove a model from the display board, tilt it back until you break the magnetic bond, and then lift it up and out of the hole. Don't ever try to lift straight up! If you lift straight up, chances are the glue holding the model together, the model to the base, or the washer to the hardboard will give way before the magnet does.

 

A very important warning!

 

 

That's it, and job's a good 'un.

[Brother Tyler]

Actually, I'd like to see this turned into a tutorial.

[Valerian]

Actually, I'd like to see this turned into a tutorial.

 

Thank you, Brother Tyler. Tutorial placed over here.

 

V

[Mordrak]

I too prefer to use the KR multicases...especially if you aren't sure what you want to use give them a call! The guys are really helpful and will bend over backwards to help get you the right combo of foam trays

[Gunrunr]

I use a Sabo Designs "Motor Pool" army transport case for my GK army. I already had one for my Black Templars and it worked so well that I was thinking of upgrading it to one of their larger cases so I could also transport both my armies at the same time. Then it dawned on me that my Templars would resent having to travel with pyskers so I was forced to have to get them each their own case. B)

[T3mpl@r Crusade]

built my own case out of a vintage suitcase. holds stormravens

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.p...howtopic=250033

[whiteraven17708]

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Plano-Protector-...l-Case/16662942

 

12-14 bucks at my local walmart I have 7 now going to need a couple more but they are handy for a guy that has alot of models you dont have one big heavy case that doesnt fit in the vehicle for those road trips on Ard boy day, for the price you can beat it, it comes with 3 layers of foam in it and the middle one is the "pluck" foam a little trim action with the exacto if needed and your ready to go, I have definately put these guys to the test and swear by them, I have had 2 boxer pups wrestling on the cases, the kids fell on them one day while they were screwing around, I've stepped on em in the middle of the night (I know right? WTH? in my defence I was getting off work and didnt know the kids had them out) and to top it all off had a house burn down on them now the flames never actually hit the cases but the roof did. I had to dig them out the next day, they are not water proof and water from the fire hose had gotten into two of them beyond that? not one bit of damage this thing have been tossed beat triped over wrestled on and yes even had a roof come down on them... for 12-14 bucks? I wont store my models in anything else.... I will say I do NOT own a Stormraven YET so I do not know if they will fit but I do have two cases that each have two Land Raiders in them that sould give you a idea on what they will hold they are fairly full with the 2 LRs but like a litle cushion on the sides as well. Im not saying you can stand on these and jump up and down but for the figure breaking accidental bumps in life I like these... IMHO

[Shasta]

Ive used Sabol (Love the casese, hate the foam), Battlefoam (Hate the cases, love the foam), GW cases (Hate period) until I settled on KR. This is the best way to store your minis since all you have to do is slide the individual core boxes into a bookcase. When you go to a game, just grab the cases you need and you're good to go.

 

For specific armies, you can either go with custom trays or core trays tailored to each army. IIRC, I think they have a series for Grey Knights as well. They have a few onsite aids so you can plan before you buy so you can easily get just what you need

[*Furyou Miko]

I use cardboard boxes and carved insulating foam for my Sisters... my Necrons (almost all old metal) still travel in the original boxes they came in, which had their own polystyrene inners which were awesome/