Project: Honour Guard

[ShinyRhino]

As I've mentioned time and again, I'm now planning to work on a 10-man Honour Guard unit as something of a piece de resistance. This is the unit I want to take a ton of time to build, convert, and paint.

And so it begins.

 

The plan is to use the four stock Ultramarine Honour Guard models alongside six scratchbuilt versions. Every model will have a tabard or cloth drape of some sort, as well as a bolter/bolt pistol/power weapon. I'm planning to use as many older armor marks as I can, focusing on Mk4 and Mk6.

 

With the general plans covered, here's what I've started with for the first scratchbuilt model:

 

First up, legs. I wanted as many built-in tabards as I could get, because I'm not the greatest sculptor. I can fill gaps and such, but that's about it. This first model uses a set of legs from the Grey Knights Strike Squad box:

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z43/goalie20/Warhammer%2040K/Project%20Honour%20Guard/01legs.jpg

 

I scraped the small sword icon off his right shin, and then used Liquid Greenstuff to fill the word panels. This is awesome stuff. I applied the first coat pretty thickly, and gave it a night to cure. I then used fine sandpaper (Testors brand, grey sheet) to sand it back down smooth. After I was done there were still a couple small indents, so I gave it another coat of Liquid GS and waited another night. That did the trick, and this is the result after another round of sanding.

 

Once the legs were set, I needed a torso. I've got a few of the Black Templars Mk4 torso parts in my collection, so I got one out of the bitz box and shaved/filed/sanded away the Templar cross on the gutplate:

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z43/goalie20/Warhammer%2040K/Project%20Honour%20Guard/01legstorso.jpg

 

The only messed up with combining this torso with the legs is that the gutplate only fits in this exact pose. However, I didn't find it to be a bad pose, so I kept it.

Next was the backpack:

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z43/goalie20/Warhammer%2040K/Project%20Honour%20Guard/01pack.jpg

 

The pack is also from the Grey Knights Strike Squad. I liked the small scroll on the top, and the non-standard vent shapes. I had also decided that I wanted every model to have a banner topper on the back of his pack to make them stand out even more from the rank-and-file. This one comes from one of the Terminator kits.

Next is selecting a head, which is where I need input:

 

Beakie?

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z43/goalie20/Warhammer%2040K/Project%20Honour%20Guard/01head1.jpg

 

Maximus?

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z43/goalie20/Warhammer%2040K/Project%20Honour%20Guard/01head2.jpg

 

Or this odd one?

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z43/goalie20/Warhammer%2040K/Project%20Honour%20Guard/01head3.jpg

 

I wasn't a fan of the third one when I first pulled it out of my Venerable Dread kit, but it has grown on me since I sat it on this torso. I'm leaning toward that or the Maximus, but what do you all think?

 

Armament is also a tough one. The requirement to have a bolter/bolt pistol/power weapon is a lot of gear to juggle. Here are some optionjs I'd thought up:

 

Bearded axe and bolter (replace the plasma pistol with a bolter, it was just the best arm for the pose):

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z43/goalie20/Warhammer%2040K/Project%20Honour%20Guard/01mock1.jpg

 

Falchion and bolter (again, replace pistol with bolter):

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z43/goalie20/Warhammer%2040K/Project%20Honour%20Guard/01mock2.jpg

 

Sword and bolter (you know the drill):

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z43/goalie20/Warhammer%2040K/Project%20Honour%20Guard/01mock3.jpg

 

Sword and fancy bolter:

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z43/goalie20/Warhammer%2040K/Project%20Honour%20Guard/01mock4.jpg

 

Axe and fancy bolter:

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z43/goalie20/Warhammer%2040K/Project%20Honour%20Guard/01mock5.jpg

 

Or, I can skip the held weapons and go with a standard bolter pose, with a holstered pistol and scabbarded sword:

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z43/goalie20/Warhammer%2040K/Project%20Honour%20Guard/01bitz.jpg

 

I'm also looking to get my hands on a bunch of the plastic holstered bolters from the Attack Bike kit, but all the regular bit sellers I frequent are sold out right now. Having a few of these would allow me to go with pistol/blade poses. The metal holstered bolters I have right now are just too bulky and have no detail on the reverse side.

 

So, what do folks think? Any feedback you can lend me?

[Biohazard]

Mk4 Maximus and the second sword and bolter pose. This is going to be a sweet looking Honour Guard. Will be keeping an eye on this. :huh:

 

EDIT

Actually looking now keeping the same pose with the bolter arm outstretch and maybe one of the swords still in its sheath at his waist might look good?

[Shadow Nugz]

MK4 with right handed sword and left handed bolt pistol.

 

I like the concept and the execution is looking pretty good so far. Cannot wait for moar!

[Reyner]

Assuming they will be Ultramarines then by law they must be equipped with the Axes of Ultramar (:P) If you can get an axe instead of sword on sword and bolter pose I think it would look good.

[Olis]

I vote for the dreadnought head and the sword+bolt pistol (not the falchion).

[ShinyRhino]

Assuming they will be Ultramarines then by law they must be equipped with the Axes of Ultramar (:rolleyes:) If you can get an axe instead of sword on sword and bolter pose I think it would look good.

 

Indeed, though those are tough to replicate. I decided to leave the Axes to the stock models. Maybe they're veterans amoing veterans or something. I might try my hand at using plasticard combined with stock power axes at a later date.

 

I do like the standard Assault Marine power sword and extended bolter pose. I think I'll go with that, though I'm thinking of altering the wrist of the sword arm to a different angle. Maybe more extension or reversing the grip?

 

Thanks for the encouragement all. It helps!

[Reyner]

You could try do a greenstuff mould of the "U" on one of the axe heads or see how the Sanguinary Guard axe looks :rolleyes:

 

Best of luck, reversing the sword grip could look very cool.

[Mr Yellow]

I know I'm being very picky but I got the impression you would have Mk4 and Mk6 suits but wouldn't mix components. If you were only planning on using the bits but not having strictly Mk6 or Mk4 you can ignore the following.

Your first guy has mk6 legs but a mk4 torso. If you want to make him mk4 then just add some square knee pads to the model (check out FW site for source images). If you want to take him mk6 direction then the torso needs to change, or you could find one with tabard/cloth on it (dark angel vet box i think) bish bosh bash and you are sorted.

[Brother_Fatiswon]

i would vote for the dread head: simple because UM Honour guard are like super Ultra marines: being direct consul to chapter masters and capts alike.

 

knowing that this in the wip sub forum: have you comprised your list regarding your ratio of power weapons to relic blades??

 

i ask because if it was my project (i do have this one on my long term:some day i'll...list)

i would use either gray knight halberds or the two handed BA sang guard axes for relic blades OR like was mentioned before make all the ax wielding models (of which you should have two from the box set) count as your relic blade HG...

 

good luck Rhino.. remember you are being watched. :rolleyes:

[OptiMAT]

Will they be a 'static' squad or an 'aggressive' squad?

 

There's a clear line between the two in the pictures you've posted so far. The Special Boltgun poses, because of the lowered weapon, will all look fairly somber, like they're awaiting the next target or combat to begin; you get around this nicely by raising the weapon arm (Axe picture shows it best) and then the model looks like he's calling for a charge or about to bring the axe down right onto a lesser being in combat.

 

On the contrary, of course, the bolt pistol arm extended out clearly gives the impression of shooting (sword down) or advancing (sword up). Although I would suggest sword down because the leg and body pose you're stuck with isn't really that aggressive and the mix of the two might look a little odd.

 

As far as your plasma pistol shot goes, you're back to a Marine who is receiving an order or scanning the battlefield after combat, with the gun up like it's just been fired and the axe in a mid position so it's going to rest rather than already in rest.

 

This is probably stuff you already know, but it might help to be told by someone else to take a step back and think about your squad dynamics ^_^ I've only been modelling a little while now and especially with 10 man squads I've already learnt it makes ALL the difference when a squad really looks like they're all thinking the same thing.

[ShinyRhino]

I know I'm being very picky but I got the impression you would have Mk4 and Mk6 suits but wouldn't mix components. If you were only planning on using the bits but not having strictly Mk6 or Mk4 you can ignore the following.

Your first guy has mk6 legs but a mk4 torso. If you want to make him mk4 then just add some square knee pads to the model (check out FW site for source images). If you want to take him mk6 direction then the torso needs to change, or you could find one with tabard/cloth on it (dark angel vet box i think) bish bosh bash and you are sorted.

 

It's meant to be a mix of marks on each Marine. I just can't pull off the full-Mark look with the vision I have in my head of these guys.

 

knowing that this in the wip sub forum: have you comprised your list regarding your ratio of power weapons to relic blades??

 

No, not really. I don't think I was planning on any relic blades at all, but if I did include any, I was going to go the route yu mentioned, make all the weapons of a particular type be the relic blades.

One thign I do know I'm going to do is give every Marine who's holding his bolter a second barrel, to represent the Auxiliary Grenade Launcher. I mocked one up last night, and it looks quite nice. Super simple to make, as well.

 

Will they be a 'static' squad or an 'aggressive' squad?

 

I hadn't really though about that, actually. I had certain poses in my head for each model, but never though about their cohesion with one another. That's a really interesting point! I think what you'll end up seeing is a mix of Marines firing bolters and pistols from braced positions, and a couple charging forward with power weapons raised, or bolt pistols firing to the front.

[ShinyRhino]

Having taken all of the feedback I received to heart, I did what I think is the final mockup of my first Honour Guard. Here he is:

 

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z43/goalie20/Warhammer%2040K/Project%20Honour%20Guard/01mock6.jpg

 

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z43/goalie20/Warhammer%2040K/Project%20Honour%20Guard/01mock7.jpg

 

Obviously, the bolt pistol is to be removed and replaced with a bolter. That eventually ended up looking like this:

 

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z43/goalie20/Warhammer%2040K/Project%20Honour%20Guard/01auxlauncher.jpg

 

That's a Command Squad bolter with the barrel moved up to be better in line with the ejection port, and the muzzle of an Auxiliary Grenade Launcher added in M203 style. It needs to be shortened just a hair, so it's not quite as long as the bolter barrel. Amazingly, the launcher barrel is actually one of the arm nubs from an AoBR Terminator. It was the perfect size!

I made the launcher in this style because it looks functional, and the barrel is easily ignored when I don't purchase the upgrade.

I just need to drill the barrels, and I'll be ready to glue the Marine together.

 

Two questions for you folks:

 

Should I bother to add a targeter or scope to the bolter? I'm hesitant, because I don't want to clutter it.

Should I add a sling to the bolter? It's a simple enough addition, but I'm worried about durability on the table. A thin GS strap dangling from two small points would have the tendency to break or warp.

[Biohazard]

That head actually looks really good. I personally wouldnt bother with the scope, the strap would look good but as you say may not be too practical on the table. Saying that have you though about using the strap from say the Storm bolter in the commander box?

[Subtle Discord]

Really great work so far. Can't wait to see where this goes. I'm usually a go-for-broke with bits builder, but have learned that less-is-more in many cases. It's also about the miniature's perceived role, in my option. A scope is a long range, brace the weapon, item. It doesn't fit with this model's one handed + power weapon stance. The strap would really suit the model, but I think you're right that it'll be fragile. Unless maybe, you sling it up and over the wrist, and back to the weapon, and take some of the slack out if it that way.

 

May I offer a humble suggestion or two about glue? Consider buying a bottle of 'extra thin' glue for working on plastics. I use Tamiya, but I know Testors and others make equivalent products. The stuff is amazing, and can be used to create the most seamless joins, thanks in part to the built-in brush.

 

http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j332/SubtleDiscord/WIP%20Thread%20Photos/Glue_Technique_01.jpg

 

The extra thin glue is almost all solvent, so you don't have to use much and it evaporates very quickly, so items actually dry very fast. (If you worried about how fast it can hold things) If you use the brush applicator and 'paint' the soft plastic it smooths down amazingly. Plus, since the two pieces 'fuse', the bond is actually stronger. You can even use plastic pins for more strength. Let it dry for a few minutes, and you can go back again to make more 'plastic soup' and fill even larger gaps. (Even add a few grains of plastic dust to create extra material to work with) I'll being doing that on the right wrist of this model, to get rid of the 'bubble' hole.

 

If you do need to use 'super' glue, for whatever reason, get an old toothbrush and use it to scrub away excess glue at the seams. If you're gentle (and/or it's pinned) you can wipe away the excess while leaving enough in the gap to get the bond you need. Excess just gets rubbed so thin it vanishes.

 

With just a little practice, none of these methods really add much work time, and will improve the results in many ways.

[ShinyRhino]

That head actually looks really good. I personally wouldnt bother with the scope, the strap would look good but as you say may not be too practical on the table. Saying that have you though about using the strap from say the Storm bolter in the commander box?

 

I'd looked at the ones on the Scout bolters, but not the stormbolter. I'll have to size it up.

 

 

May I offer a humble suggestion or two about glue? Consider buying a bottle of 'extra thin' glue for working on plastics. I use Tamiya, but I know Testors and others make equivalent products. The stuff is amazing, and can be used to create the most seamless joins, thanks in part to the built-in brush.

 

Thanks for the tip. I use the Testors liquid in the long-necked plastic bottle (not the metal tubes). It works far better than the tubes used to, but doesn't have a brush applicator. I'll have to see where I can buy the tamiya locally.

Was this suggestion based on the join between the hand and the bolter? That join actually wasn't dry yet when I snapped the shot. It's getting some sanding work done this evening :).

[Subtle Discord]

No offense at all, but yes, the join on the Bolter made me cringe and I had to say something.

 

The great thing about the thin glue + brush is that you don't need to go back. The joins are so smooth they're ready to go. you can even use it to go back and smooth/clean excess glue, like in the picture shown. Learning how to make the most of that simple glue has made building and converting in plastic so enjoyable, I almost dread working with pewter or resin.

[ShinyRhino]

No offense at all, but yes, the join on the Bolter made me cringe and I had to say something.

 

The great thing about the thin glue + brush is that you don't need to go back. The joins are so smooth they're ready to go. you can even use it to go back and smooth/clean excess glue, like in the picture shown. Learning how to make the most of that simple glue has made building and converting in plastic so enjoyable, I almost dread working with pewter or resin.

 

None taken at all. I'm always looking to improve.

Do you buy yours at a brick and mortar shop, or online?

[Subtle Discord]

Brick and mortar hobby shop (Models, railroads, etc.) in my area. I always try to support local shops, especially if they are independent retailers. Only if I can't find it locally will I go online, and even then I'll try to keep as local as I can manage, unless the price is too good to pass up.

 

As I said, I prefer Tamiya 'Extra Thin' (Green cap), but there are others. Just be careful not to get products like MBS Solvent Cement or Plastruct Plastic Weld. These are great products, but they are meant for scratch building with dense styrene plastic, and very are 'hot'. GW kits are of slightly softer plastic, and those are way too hot and will make a mess.

[ShinyRhino]

After a little more work, I've got his left arm on!

 

First step was to pin the arm to the body in the correct angle. Standard paperclip inserted into the body, the angle measured up, and then the correct hole drilled in the arm. Affix with plastic glue and reinforce with superglue:

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z43/goalie20/Warhammer%2040K/Project%20Honour%20Guard/01leftarm1.jpg

 

I also drilled the barrels of the bolter and aux launcher (the bottom barrel has since been cleaned up):

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z43/goalie20/Warhammer%2040K/Project%20Honour%20Guard/01leftarm2.jpg

 

It's looking quite good, to my eyes. The next big step was filling the armpit gap. I've historically had a really hard time with this. I can fill the gaps just fine, but when I try to make the ribbing, things snag and get torn. The ribs are either to sharp, or too shallow. This time I had my sculpting tools handy. I was able to get a relatively smooth finish just with the tools, but I felt it could have been better. I'd heard people mention using petroleum jelly, cooking oil, or various other things to smooth Greenstuff. I'd tried water and saliva, neither was great. However, recently I was told Chapstick worked well, and I actually had a recently-ruined-in-the-clothes-dryer stick. I put a very light coat on my sculpting tool, and started smoothing. It works! No stickiness, no tearing. Huzzah!

After the joint was smooth, I applied another tiny bit of Chapstick to the back of my Xacto blade, and pressed in the ribs. Infinitely better than my past attempts. No tugging, no tearing. A little smoothing of the ribs with the sculpting tool and this is the result:

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z43/goalie20/Warhammer%2040K/Project%20Honour%20Guard/01leftarm3.jpg

 

Oh, I also glued on the studded shoulder pad.

The only thing I have to remember is to lightly wash the model in warm, soapy water before I prime it. The Chapstick won't hold paint!

[Biohazard]

Nice job on the ribbing. Lolling forward to the completed squad.

[Hyaenidae]

Chapstick....*facepalm*. Insane how the simplest ideas work so well sometimes. Very cool man, looking forward to seeing this guy finished!

[Subtle Discord]

I usually have luck touching my tools to my tongue as I work (damn that sounds weird) but for the stubborn spots, I never thought about chapstick. Sometimes saliva or water just dries too quickly. Good suggestion.

[Terminatorinhell]

I would probably define the ribbing a bit more, make thinner creases. Other than that he looks good

[lokkorex]

pretty good looking so far, just hope your painting is up to the job! :D

[Alpha PTP]

Its a great start to a model, but I think the head you picked out is probably one of the worst power armor head sculpts I've seen. I really prefer the maximus armor, but that is just personal opinion.

 

Some of the mold lines and symbols you filed off needed to be filed a little more. The templar symbol that used to be on the chest is still slightly visible. The mold line on the grenade could use some work as well. The simplest solution for the torso at this point is to do a very thin layer of GS over the whole area to give it a flat finish. I've been modeling for damn near ten years and I still struggle with mold lines too. :cuss

 

Looks good otherwise.