Astral Claws, need help with the painting!

[alex567]

Hello, alex567 here, I have some qANDa's for those Astral Claw or any other similar painters out their.

I wish to start an Astral Claw army and I would like some painting tips to make my models a better standard.

 

Needs help with:

How to paint the metalic armour pieces,

How to paint the blue shoulder trim,

Tips on freehanding the tyrants legion symbol,

The blue strips on their weapon's,

 

Non-Astral claw questions:

Tips on highlighting,

Tips on that lightning affect, object source lighting I think it's called

Suitable Bases,

Painting Chips on veihcles,

Painting eyes,

Tips on Shadowing,

 

If any one could answer these questions, it would be great, I have never been properaly taught how to paint, and have spent a while scrolling through web pages to get tips, I am not new to the hoby well I dont think so, have been going for 6 years-ish now, and know what mostly people mean when refering to things, but I dont know all of it, thanks for your time! :)

[davetherave26]

hey alex ill be glad to help you out as im starting out on a astral claw army myself firstly dont over think painting the model to gw standard it will drive you insane i used to be like it all the time.

 

Firstly decide if you want to paint it metallic silver or grey i choose grey as its easier to highlight and metallic is a hard colour to get right. Using washes always helps as well.

 

The blue shoulder rim and the blue on the weapons just choose what blue you want to use then hightlight. Speaking of highlighting the best way i learned was this way. E.g lets say for arguments sake you paint the space marine boltgun metal you would then highlight with a lighter version of that colour say mythril silver or chainmail you do this on the edges of the armour. Its real easy to do when you get the hang of it. you shouldnt need to do much more with regards to highlighting as this tecchnique give you pretty good results its how i do my models.

 

Im in the same boat as you ive been collecting for 15 yrs now not the best painter mainly convert my models. the other techniques you mentioned such as shadowing i would leave as you need a good perspective on what youre doing they are advanced skillls that take time to master. Painting eyes is quite easy too just paint the base colour then a lighter colour on top showing abit of prevous colour then a dot of white in top corner.

 

Painting chips on armour is simple as well paint figure as normal then paint a spot black where u want the chip to be then bolt gun metal or simliar colour on top leaving a outline of black on top.

 

Basing is easy if you got some spare parts add them to base and use sand or grass which you can buy from gw or hobby stores use pva glue for the basing the models use plastic or super glue.

 

Now lastly the shoulder pads tbh i would get the forgeworld shoulder pads as thier chapter symbol is one of the hardest to free hand paint you def need to have skill in that area i can free hand pretty well but i wouldnt even attempt that symbol.

 

Hope this helps you out alex if you need any more advice ill be only glad to help you out

 

Rave

[alex567]

Thanks for the tips, rave, I'm getting my astral claws at christmas, hopefully, might creat a creating painting topic. Will post a link here, so check back after christmas! :lol:

[davetherave26]

wicked alex ill keep a eye out for them :yes: glad i could help

[red_starrise]

I play Iron Warriors which have the same base color as Astral Claws. This is the recipe I use for them: prime black, drybrush grey, basecoat boltgun metal, highlight edges of armor areas w/ mithril silver, wash w/ devlan mud.

 

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x84/red_starrise/40K/Iron%20Warriors/CIMG5235.jpg

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x84/red_starrise/40K/Iron%20Warriors/CIMG5259.jpg

 

For things like tank tracks that would normally be boltgun metal I paint a wrought iron color & then wash w/ badab black. Armor chips I actually nick w/ a blade & then paint w/ codex grey followed by a wash of gryphonne sepia for a slightly rusted look & then devlan mud to drab it down.

[alex567]

Alex here, Lovely iron warriors, thanks for the tips. Ok now you may thing me crazy but I'm going to go for a Non-metalic Metal technique, and see how it goes, I've spent alot of time researching it and have been practising a bit and how kinda worked out how to do it, so when the page for them pops up they'l either be a complex colour of ok (-ish) looking Astral Claws, or just silver and blue because I would have died from constant blending! thanks for the tips.

[Redfinger]

Tips on highlighting,

Tips on Shadowing

 

 

I will throw this out for you.....When it comes to shadows and highlights, use them to direct attention. Spend some time looking at classic art and you will see that they use shadows and highlights to draw your focus to certain parts of the painting. You can do this on a model, always have the highlights working together and going on the right manner, this will help give the model more depth.

 

Ashton

[davetherave26]

hey alex i totally agree with you on the non metallic im not a fan of shiny metals esp with the gw paints i think its a great idea its how im painting mine as well. Thou the lure of chaos is calling me to finish off my word bearers lol.

[Subtle Discord]

Not that I'm trying to convince you to avoid NMM, but I'll just be the voice of reason so you understand what you're getting in to. Especially with Astral Claws, a 'metallic-heavy' army. Ambition is a good thing, however, so feel free to completely ignore my ramblings if you want go forward with it.

 

If this is going to be a playing army, and you want to play in the within the next year or more, I would suggest against NMM. The amazing look of NMM comes at the cost of being an advanced technique and a slow process. In my opinion, if it's rushed and/or done poorly, it looks like it, and really takes away from the model.

 

With a solid metallic Base + Wash Layers (Two or more well placed layers is key) + Blending Cleanup + Final Highlights, you can get results that are stunning in a fraction of the time NMM will take. Take it to the next level by adding a second (and even third) Wash + Blend Cleanup before the Final Highlights if you want it to look even smoother.

 

Don't want 'bright' metals? Just take the time to learn to mix your own 'dark' washes, and how to use them to create amazing blending, shadowing, and depth. You can 'deepen' metals down to almost Black (or any other colour, for that matter) if you want. I do it all the time to create very dirty/tarnished/soot-covered metals, and could easily make them clean/polished by easing up the layers and spending more time on Cleanup/Highlights. Metallics are only 'secondary' colours with my army, but I still do a lot of them. I consistently get compliments on my metals because I take a little time and effort to blend them well with simple washes, and then Cleanup and highlight.

 

Now... if you really want to do NMMs, I would highly suggest getting 'proper' Acrylic Thinner, Drying Retarder, and a 'Flow Enhancer' like FlowAid by Liquitex.

 

Acrylic Thinner will thin out colours (go figure!) without 'weakening' how well the paint will stick better than just using water. This helps considerably with blending by making paint more translucent to let base colours blend through, but still tough and resistant to rubbing/scratching off.

 

Drying Retarder, used very sparingly, will slow drying time of the paint giving you more time to blend and smooth transitions. The double edged sword is that it also slows painting in general since you're waiting longer once the layer is how you want it. A light duty hair dryer is very helpful to speed dry times in general. Don't 'blast' damp paint up-close even on a low setting however, just hold it back and give the miniature a nice 'warm breeze'. It can also make paint 'softer' if you try to use too much, so again, just a tiny bit is needed.

 

Flow Enhancer (FlowAid) does just what it sounds like - helping the paint flow smoothly. More is not better here, so don't use too much or it can 'weaken' paint's ability to stick. Mix it 20(or more)-to-1 with water and use a bit to thin your paints as your work. This will help with blending and making smooth transitions (Especially with the other products here) between colours, and the paint will just 'go on better' in general. Also, this product helps washes resists 'ringing' at the edges as they dry.

 

Note: The Acrylic Thinner is the key to keeping the paint's bonding/drying strength, while blending with Retarder and FlowAid, which both 'weaken' paint. If you don't handle your miniatures much before they are 100% done and properly varnished, you don't need to worry as much, as the final varnish locks everything down. But, stronger is better even with varnish, in my opinion.

[alex567]

Hey, alex here, thanks for all the great replies. The main reason i'm considering non metalic metals is because I can't paint metalic metals I have difficulty painting the highlights, i'm gonna do my normal men most probably silver but the problem is that I have major issues painting any silver colour, I have an Imperial Guard army and it's realy nice (personal opinion), no drybrushing, only ink is on the boltgun metal, and at this moment in time I'm painting little tiny cards onto one of my squads, to practise my freehand, but metal, its, its, its like, trying to paint... a masterpiece of a computer screen when you have an image of mona lisa up, its realy difficult and realy aint gonna happen, the metal is mostly nice flat smooth and tastey, but the ink just kills it and then with the highlight theres more highlight on the unhighligted areas then the areas supposed to be highlighted, and in the end just doesnt look right, yes I do put myself down on my painting skills in some cases, for crimbo I'm gonna get aload of fine detail brushes, and will also try to get a blue bulb for more realistic lighting (think its a blue bulb that gives out white light), yeah my painting conidtions aint perfect, and I have shakey hands, but I wanna get this right, just to mention I need to paint a small chunk of this for the doubles tournament in july/june era, but anyway's.

Ok so now I need some more tips, a proper guide on how to paint a nice metalic armour for astral claws, any one know how the guy who did the tyrants legion astral claws list painted his armour? and similarly with the shoulder pads. Thanks for your time.

[Lorenzen]

metallics the easy way = decent metallic base, then a mix of gloss varnish and a black wash, this will go into the recesses and wont pool as badly as a basic wash.. plus badab black etc all have matting agents in them which are the antichrist of decent metallic finishes.

 

i recommend looking at a few of the wip astral claws (as well as my fire angels) to see some simple and effective metallics that dont just look like "boltgun, wash drybrush mithril" and various stages of work as helpfull guides.

 

oh and as a general factoid... the forgeworld astral claws were done in this method..

 

black gloss primer, alclad, wash of black & gloss, rub n buff silver for highlighting then tidied up and made to look fancy.. mark bedford (the guy who painted them) told me this.

[Subtle Discord]

Shameless personal plug: Read my blog here at B&C. Currently I talk about tools, brushes, and workspace - including light. I tend to ramble a bit, and I hope I don't come off as too 'preachy', but I try to only talk about what I've done first hand. My opinions are all from personal experience, so I think that gives them some weight, but they are by no means 'the only way'.

 

A few things to get you started. Yes, light is critical, and you want a 'Sunlight' or 'Cool White' (Read: Blue) light to paint by. Invest in at least 2 clamp-on 'arm' lamps and get 26W (100W equivalent) compact florescent bulbs. Two lights lets to put one on each side of your head/subject to minimize shadows.

 

Good tools/brushes matter. As I always say, by themselves they won't make you better at painting/building, but the help immensely by not being part of your problem. That's not to say that lower quality items can't be used to very good effect to save money, but over the course of really getting in to the hobby, getting a few select high quality items is a good investment. Once you use a good brush beside a cheaper one, you'll see directly why spending a bit more now-and-then is worth it.

 

The great thing about getting good with washes is that they can require a lot less brush control. You guide and move the wash where you want it, and let it go to spread naturally. Once you get used to it, it's amazing what you can do, and it leads wonderfully in to learning actual paint blending, since it's really a similar technique.

 

When I do metal in general I start with the brightest Gold or Silver I can get, painted over everything (No dry-brushing, even 'easy' things) as the base. At least some of it will want to be 'highlighted' to that level, so that will almost build the highlights in from the start. From there you can build washes slowly or very aggressively. (And don't get me wrong, if you want 'Dark Silver/Gold' start darker, but I like brighter)

 

And note: A Wash and an Ink are very different beasts, and will create very different effects. Washes are a thicker 'Glaze' of pale colour suspended in acrylic. Ink is a concentrated dye/pigment suspended in a very thin liquid that might not even be acrylic. Washes will 'flow' and collect much differently than Ink, since it surface tension is different due to it's thickness. Inks will actually 'stain' surfaces, collect tightly in corners, and not 'move' nearly as much as a Wash.

 

Start with a very thin light Wash to just start the effect, and make the surface matte to better hold future washes. Let it dry completely, and judge if the overall colour is where you're aiming for. It's like the old cooking adage; You can always add, but you can't take away. Well, in this case you can take away, but it's less work to not add too much in the first place. If you're happy, start the 'selective' wash build up, or do another very light wash to deepen the overall effect until desired. Nothing will help better than doing several quick test on spare miniatures, sprue, etc.. Paint a few things light, medium, dark, Silver/Gold - Make enough room to test a few Washes. Then try a few washes out - straight from the bottle, and consider adding a few (or more) drops of ink in some tests for stronger effects. I use dark (Home 'brew') and light (From the bottle) black and brown washes all the time to great effect.

 

Once you've got the overall effect, now you add emphasis with selective Washes. Go in under arms/weapons, between legs, and just generally anywhere you want shadowed and/or tarnished and dirty. Add small blobs-and-streaks of wash in these places, and play with moving it around a bit. You can push, pull, drag, and even add/remove Wash very easily. A little practice will go a long way, and if it's not right at first, just throw some Silver over and start again. At this point you might want to switch up the colour of wash a bit to add a hit of rust, or a tinge of coldness with some blue, or filth with some brown-black. Again, try a few tests, and something will come up that you like. ALWAYS have a second brush on hand that is clean and damp (I clamp mine in my teeth or hold it with a second finger 'chopstick-like') and use that brush to smooth and blend the Wash along edges. Don't be afraid to wipe-clean-wipe-clean-wipe several times as you blend the wash edge, if you need a subtle effect. Drag it from the dark to light areas, but leave the 'pure' edges and upturned surfaces clean if you want them bright.

 

Gravity is your friend, let it pull washes where you want it, even if the miniature needs to sit funny for awhile.

 

Once you's got that done you might have a level that you can actually run with, start adding colour parts, and be ready to add some 'overall' highlights. If you started very light, you can be surprised how little highlighting you might need.

 

But, you might want to add more depth to the metal and will need to blend some paint back over the wash to bring out an area. Or, if you find that you have some 'blochyness' or uneven areas, again a blend will be needed. Thin the paint a LOT and don't be afraid to add very thin layers to the miniature. Use the technique you did during Washing. It's the same idea, but the paint is a bit thinner and will 'stain' a bit more if it goes too far. Practice is key here, but the next step will help.

 

Note: If you have unsteady hands at this point, be sure you're bracing and holding the miniature/brush/hands/arms as best you can. Painting close to the chest at the very least. But also, bracing your elbows/hands/wrists and the mini against desk corners or painting stations are all key. Try to find a soft pad of some kind you can work on and don't be afraid to put the miniature at weird angles if it will help. I do my eyes with the miniature up-side-down half the time - it's easier to get them even if I just 'flip' the miniature. ^_^ While I brace my hands and the miniature against a table edge.

 

Now, do another selective wash after doing the highlight blending. But this time use it to smooth the transition between the highlights you just did. Very thin and careful washes will help smooth out any roughness in the metal paint you just added. Again, clean and drag edges with the clean damp brush you now always have at hand. Once you've done some tests and get this far you'll be really happy with what you have, and will have learned so much about how paint 'acts'.

 

From here you'll start adding blue... but that's another story, should you want me to continue rambling...

[alex567]

From here you'll start adding blue... but that's another story, should you want me to continue rambling...

 

Hey, Alex here, thanks for all those great tips, please continue, it's great to have such a great community at hand to help you when you are stuck, and hopefully oneday I will be able to give back to the community, but until that day, ramble on...

[Subtle Discord]

*Takes a deep breath*

 

Ok, with Astral Claws you're lucky. Blue is a nice straight forward single secondary colour, and it blends rather easy. How/where you want to apply it is going to be personal preference, but keep it somewhat sparse. If you want to do large (and even smaller - with practice) stripes on vehicles, masking is going to be really useful. It's one area I don't have a lot of experience in, but it'll help you get nice consistent spacing. Consider following some type of theme with how/where you apply the Blue to give Squads and/or the entire Army more cohesion.

 

Paint it on clean and try to be as careful as you can. Again, bracing your hands and subject is key if you want clean lines - get used to doing it if you want superior results. Also, Even if you don't do a ton of blending some of the products I mentioned before will help paint flow smooth.

 

Use a wet pallet! So simple to make, but it helps with painting sooo much. Thinning paints is a must. Don't be afraid to paint 2-or-3 thinner layers - get a nice clean edge, and then clean up any unevenness with the second and or third layer. You'd think 'more times I paint more times I have to mess it up', but trying to get it perfect in one go opens the door for going too thick and/or making a minor mistake much larger. When I try to paint a line, many times I drop the bush far away from what I want to 'cut' against, and then slide in closer with each stroke/layer. Practice dragging the brush in long smooth flatter stokes, not trying to 'draw lines with the tip'.

 

You will hit Silver spots that are perfectly blended sometimes (Muttering foul curses as you do) and they'll need to be fixed. Everyone twitches and puts paint in the wrong place sometimes. Learn how to take a bit of silver (Read: Any colour that needs to be repaired) that somewhat matches the mistake area. Thin it down considerably, and place a small amount on the mistake. try to soften the edges of that spot, and worry more about it smoothing out than covering the mistake in one go. Again, you might need to do 2 or 3 thin layers. Then go back with careful small washes to smooth it back to match. It sounds hard, but it's not that bad once you start to get it.

 

Ok, so you've picked out some gear and components in Blue. Personally, I'd wash them with out-of-the-bottle Asurmen Blue Wash. Don't slop it on, be careful and sparing with with it, and drag it out with the clean damp brush. It's up to you if you want to add 1 or 2 light layers to just add a bit of richness to the Blue or go darker with more/heavier layers and/or mixing a tiny bit of Black Wash with the Blue Wash. As always, experiment.

 

I haven't mentioned it too much, but always let layers dry completely before adding more. In general 2+ layers is almost always better than 1. BUT, if the edges of anything is starting to dry, LET IT DRY. Unless it's a really large puddle/blob of paint that will cause problems (Then you need to do something) just let it be. Working drying paint makes lumps and ridges, and working washes makes 'ringing' and mucks up the deep blends.

 

Now you need to brighten up the blue with something a bit lighter. You might just want to start with the base blue you had and clean up the Blue Washes you did. Then lighten it up more with a lighter Blue. How you do this depends on how much work you want to do. Blending will require you to choose a colour to 'work towards' (the lightest Blue you want) and keep adding that blue to the base blue.

 

Most do it in a measured way, something like; 75% Base + 25% Light > 50% / 50% mix > 25% Base + 75% Light > 100% Light

 

You would work in thin layers, adding a small amount of paint and dragging one edge out to blend the colours. Doing less-and-less area with the lighter colours as you get close to the edge of the highlight.

 

You can also do edge highlighting. If you want to get an idea of how that works, have a look in my WIP thread. I've shown how I do simple layered edge highlighting. Odds are you'll do some of this even if you do blending, but edge highlighting can stand on it own. You'll always want to be consistent with your 'light source' direction when adding highlights, and just be logical from there.

 

By this point you'll be picking out all the little things as well - Optics, eyes, gems, screens, etc.. You should start feeling much more comfortable with them after doing a squad or two doing some of the things I've been blathering on about. You'll have guys that look like they just stepped off the drop-ship, if that's what you want. If not...

 

From here you'll add weathering. That is a very personal thing, and there are more techniques than even I could ramble on about. Investigate things like using small bit of sponge to apply a paint chipping effect. Weathering Powders of various kinds to add dirt, grime, corrosion, rust, simulated oil streaks, etc.. Again, washes and highlights can be used to add/enhance weathering. As with everything, testing on a spare miniature, sprue, or bit is time well spent. Took me several hours of tinkering to zero in on the weathering I'm going to do with my current army.

[alex567]

Hey, Alex here, WOW, I think you should write a book...or twelve, on how to paint! Thanks for the great tips, another question perhaps, I know I know ive asked alot already but its better to ask then not to know. Any whose on with the interagatives. I'm gonna be getting an airbrush for christmas dont know if you know much about that, but anyway how would you go about blending with an airbrush?

[Subtle Discord]

That's something I can't give much information on. I don't have an airbrush, yet. That's something I hope to get in the somewhat near future. But I can give some general information I do know.

 

Obviously, using an airbrush will let to add smooth clean layers. Excellent for giving a nice overall base very quickly. I've seem several threads here where people start with an overall 'deep' colour and then add light ghost of lighter colour on top to create instant blending to the base colour. This speeds up vehicles a LOT.

 

Even if you don't do layering that it helps a ton doing things like an overall base coat. You can even buy airbrush friendly primer that you can mix to do the entire process yourself too. Saving money.

 

Adding very subtle overall wash layers can also be done with an airbrush with a lot more control than a brush. Add masking and all sorts of other techniques I'm sure I don't know about, and you can see why an airbrush is a great tool.

[alex567]

Hey, Alex here, thanks again for the tips (still think you should write a book/booklet for all your painting tips). Had a quick shimi (well indepth read) through the first two pages of your black legion and they look great, I hope you dont mind that I took some notes in word well actualy about 6 pages but still. Thanks for all your help, will post a link here after christmas for my astra claws and the legends they turn out not to be :S but yeah ill give it a shot and see how they come out, I'll probagbly ask somemore questions in the short future when I think of them, if you or well any one doesnt mind answering them. Thanks for your time.

[Subtle Discord]

For now, my 'book' is my blog, threads, and ramblings to questions like yours. Thanks for the vote of confidence.

 

I'm putting everything out there in hopes that people will find it useful and inspiring. I know I've learned a lot through trial-and-error, and want to hand down some of that experience to take out some guess work. I'm seeing more-and-more that I might just have take it to another level and consider something... more. I'm still considering what 'more' will entail.

 

This is the beauty of the internet age. When I started gaming, I would have killed for a resource as useful as Google. So many questions went unanswered because all I wanted was a modest step-by-step explanation of certain things - hopefully with pictures. I want to give a few answers that I had a hard time figuring out.

 

My motivation is also self-serving. I have a lot of ideas, and it can mean that I never get anything done, bouncing from one idea to the next. By showing some things off, I can give insight to what I'm doing, and get motivated to actually finish things since people will want to see progress. I urge you to do the same. Post some pictures and show off what you like, and ask for input on what you're struggling with. You'll get input, support, and suggestions on how to proceed.

 

I look forward to seeing where you go with this, and will give what I can to the process.

[Lorenzen]

depending on how you want to "blend" with an airbrush it can be very simple to awkward.

 

the basic simple method is to do "zenethial" highlighting with your darkest colour as the base, then 45 degree angle for a lighter colour and then almost directly above for a highlight, with practise this will leave the darker colour on the lower parts of the armour the mid colour on the majority of the armour and then the highlight colour only on the highest points, giving you a semi natural looking gradient to your models

 

for more intricate stuff you need to remove the end part of the airbrush so that it projects a finer spray pattern, if you look up "buypainted" and how to paint a grey knight dreadknight and termies you can see how he does it.

 

also worth looking at are the awesome paint job tutorials on youtube by les.

[alex567]

Hey, Alex here, thank's again for all your help...'s? to both of you and to any one else who has helped me out so far, I'm not sure whether to practise my grey to white blending or my bolt to mith blending? Realy helped me out with your wash blending in your black legion thread bit, I never knew blending washes actualy worked! I've decided to try and post a weekly battle report on my local games workshop facebook page as to get me in the swing of weekly updates, so far nupwar? if that is the correct term, because I did not play a game, but instead an update on my guard which are looking rather snazy, but atleast that means I can get into the hang of atleast once a week bloging, i've found that I can paint without exploding out of rage and failure, if I have atleast 5 mini's on the go at once and i've got a good quality song playing (if only youtube had a repeat button),

 

but any whose, on day closer to christmas and one day closer to my astral claws, I reacon the first thing I'll do is crack open one of dem der megaforces and mash up a tactical squad, that way I can practise my airbrushing early on before I build the tanks, hope-ing to get some forge world pads and GW tactical pads so will also have a go airbrushing the spare pads I have and then try airbrushing the other pads see what comes out, I'm reaconin a blue stripe down the side of each of my raiders over each of the "rhino" side doors then painting a checker pattern onto the side doors using blue and silver, now before you go OBJECTION, I overrule you with that I have planed out an "algarithem on how to get a pattern without having to cut little squads, the only difference is that it will reqire two sprays not one, gonna led the lights and hopefuly get some sprockets to make the side weapons move, any one know how to make motor's spin slower? the resistors i've got are to strong and stop them moving completely, also got an idea on how to make the LED's removable, this is the surface to my complex mind, and this actualy kept me up till half 4 in the morning just thinking about how to make it, I then whent to sleep and woke up 5 hours later not tired, but energised and ready to tackle the day.

 

Feel free to post thoughts and ideas on these orkamedes like creations, yes that is orkamedes not arkamedies, if you want more detail into it just ask if not then I will abe's odesy my mouth shut and telaphaicaly speak to you with "can you here me now?". Yes I am crazy but hey hoe mabe valtex is hireing?

[Lorenzen]

youtube does have a repeat button... type "endless" into the bar before youtube and it repeats forever. :lol:

 

http://endlessvideo.com/watch?v=Iq77BB58m18 (example)

 

the difference between greys and metallics is quite drastic and id highly recommend testing everything with metallics.. also i recommend the vallejo model air range of paints, literally nothing compares to how good those paints are (outside of alclad)

[alex567]

Hey, Alex here, ^Genius, I hear alot about vallejo and other paint ranges but for me games workshop is the only way forward, well its the only way I'm prepared to go, because 50% of my painting is actualy done their and I'm not aloud to use other companies paint's their. so other paint ranges are'nt an option. Most probably my final result will be metalic and thanks to captain essay (subtle discord :lol:) over their I have a lovely way on how to paint silvers (still did'nt know you could layer silvers) so gonna give that a try, and blues are most likely to be a nice blue like in the tyrant's legion thread that guy did, gonna be a bumber to match though, my final result is hopefully gonna be table top +1 i'm not looking for a games day winning army just an army that people look at and go these are nice how did you do this, one that I can be proud of, a step up from my guard which I am quite frankly pleased with, evan if other people dont like them, basicaly just so I can see an improvement in my painting. And thanks to you guys and galls that dream will soon become reality, IF all goes to plan, but evan the best laid plants gang aft aglee (will often fail).

[Lorenzen]

secret hint.. buy other companies paints, and stick them in gw pots you've already used up :lol:

[alex567]

secret hint.. buy other companies paints, and stick them in gw pots you've already used up :pinch:

Hey, Alex here, are you creed in disguise? Cause only a tactical genius would think of that! double thumbs up! :lol: :lol: genius!

[Lorenzen]

if i was creed in disguise why would i admit it.. that doesnt seem like the kind of thing a tactical genius would do. :ph34r:

 

unless that tactical genius didnt want you to realise he was in fact a tactical genius in disguise so misslead you into believe he had said he was a tactical genius in disguise in the hope youd think he wasn't in fact a tactical genius..

 

only a tactical genius would think of something so.... CREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEED!

 

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd199/typhion/151928_tactical_genius.jpg