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Dark Angels Highlights.


rathianfire

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I don't have any pictures at the moment, but I'll try to take some for you to show you the finished effect.

 

The way I usually shadow/highlight my Dark Angels is this:

 

- Black undercoat Primer

 

- Dark Angels green

 

- Wash all the DA Green with Black Ink, a more ink-heavy wash for certain areas, like their heels, or in-between the Power Armour collar and the Shoulder Pad rim

 

- With a Fine Detail brush, paint any raised edges (mouthpiece, earpieces, shoulder pad rims, top of helmet etc.) with Skull White

 

- If you're en experienced painter blend the white on the edges out (that is, draw the paint out with a clean brush) This gives the effect of light catching the edges most extremely, and then fading out. This step can be skipped and then compensated for with the Drybrushing in the coming step, but it's a great technique to practice, and is really effective.

My tip for Blending is have a second clean brush ready as soon as you paint the white line, and wet the tip VERY slightly by putting it in your mouth.

 

- A light drybrush of Skull white on other areas that should otherwise be lighter (helmet, topside of arms), in other words, make sure the raised edges have a clear line of white, as they catch the light the most, and then make sure the surrounding area has a light dusting of white

 

- Give the Model a second layer of (very slightly watered down, or not watered at all if you prefer) Dark Angels Green.

 

At this stage, you will already have a basic highlight and shadow on your model, but I always take it further.

 

- A light drybrush (or very thinned down) of Snot green on the highlights you want to be slightly lighter

 

- A mix of DA green and Goblin green (Thinned down a little bit) on the highlights that you want to be lightest.

 

- Wash all of the highlights with a wash of Yellow ink, this really makes the highlights look like Light falling on the model, rather than just patches of Lighter green.

 

- Finally, wash all the green parts of the model in Dark Green Ink, this brings all the ranges of colours together, so everything just flows much more naturally.

 

I'll go take some pictures of finished models that I have used this on, to show you what this achieves.

What you want is a set of painting guides! :)

 

Fortunately we have a few linked in the Laws of the Lion thread - have a look and see if they are of use, then remember to show us the painted miniatures. :yes:

 

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.p...t&p=1787719

Yikes, that's a lot of work. I went to a similar level with the FW boarding marine offered at adepticon, but that's a special model. For table-ready DA power armor in a flash, I prime black, paint DA green, ink black (sparingly, only where I want shadows), then line in snot green highlights...I don't have a good pic of an infantry model (the ones in my album on this site use a couple of different older methods), but here's a LRTU done using the same technique:

gallery_13203_846_660973.jpg

Yikes, that's a lot of work. I went to a similar level with the FW boarding marine offered at adepticon, but that's a special model.

 

I find it actually goes by quite quickly, the paint seems to be dry by the time I've finished using another colour (I have bleached bone pads, so that takes a few layers, So I just keep swapping between armour, pads and gear)

 

After rushing through as many badly painted armies as I have, I think it's time for a paint job fit for the emperor himself to lead in battle :P

 

Plus when you're taking a while to build your army into an effective fighting force, it makes sense to spend a few hours making a few models look great!

Hehe...I'm working on an entire battle company...with seven armies between WFB and 40k, I'd never have any hope of reaching that goal if I went all golden daemon on every model, hehe...not to say I'm sloppy, but I do take more time than most people seem to need to make my models presentable, so if I want to keep it under three hours per marine, I have to limit it to primer, basecoat, ink, and highlighting...followed by the DA icon on one shoulder, squad markings on the other, company badge on one knee, campaign badge (rubicon valley, homemade) on the other, not to mention ...the bases get gravel, paint, drybrush, then tufts...it takes for-freakin-ever even without going to the same level of effort that you do.

My highlighting and basing techniques have evolved a lot since this pic in 2006, but here's one of my shoulder pads... That kind of stuff I hope makes up for the model's otherwise unremarkable paint job...

gallery_13203_846_405605.jpg

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