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non-metallic metals


army310

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well is my first try at it. i used the eavy metal book.

http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/army310/PC070263.jpg

http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/army310/PC070264.jpg

http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/army310/PC070265.jpg

http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/army310/PC070266.jpg

http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/army310/PC070267.jpg

http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/army310/PC070268.jpg

http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/army310/PC070269.jpg

http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/army310/PC080271.jpg

http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/army310/PC080272.jpg

http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/army310/PC080273.jpg

http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/army310/PC080274.jpg

 

What do you think and how can I do this better?

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Hey, I think you did a good job on the color choice for the NMM and you definitely have the right amount of contrast on it. My only real criticism on this model, is the blending. I think you need to work on the blends a little more, maybe thin your paints more and work over several layers. I think that's really all that needs some work. Once the blends get a little smoother and more subtle, you'll have a great model!
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zenfarr thanks and ill try to thin it down a bit

Mr M. thanks:)

http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/army310/PC110275.jpg

http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/army310/PC110276.jpg

http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/army310/PC110277.jpg

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Really nice work on 'quick' NMM. I can agree that the results will be superior if you blend more, but I am an advocate for 'layering' when you don't want to spend crazy amounts of time blending. This is a good example of how 'clean line' layering can produce a very pleasing result. Great work.
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Nice try for a first attempt :jaw:

 

If you can get hold of it the Heavy Metal Medium that comes in the HM brush set is fantastic for blending as the paint stays wet longer and can be thinned much more heavily than with water only. I hope that GW release the medium fully as it works even better than W+N Acrylic Flow Improver for blending work.

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Nice try for a first attempt :)

 

If you can get hold of it the Heavy Metal Medium that comes in the HM brush set is fantastic for blending as the paint stays wet longer and can be thinned much more heavily than with water only. I hope that GW release the medium fully as it works even better than W+N Acrylic Flow Improver for blending work.

 

I guarantee that the GW 'Heavy Metal Medium' is a repackaged product made by another company. Now, the question about which company's product is another story. I have no idea. That said, have a look at acrylic medium from any other company to see if you can find something that works as well. It's out there, and at a better price, I'm sure of it. Currently I'm using (and enjoying) Vallejo Matte Medium (Thinner).

 

Another quick point; Flow Aid products are different than Mediums. Flow Aid helps paint flow smoothly in general, but also helps with blending. Mediums will thin paints, basically turning them in to a Wash, and that helps considerably with blending. But, Mediums will not give the same 'flowing' advantages. Use both to get the best of both worlds; Thin the paint down with Medium, and then add a bit of 'FlowAid water'. Keep using the 'FlowAid water' as you work to keep the paint working smoothly.

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Thanks guys ill try mediums you were talking about and effect for the power sword is he just turn in on and its powering up. I never seen anyone try to paint this so I really dont know what it looks like.

 

PS: how can i make my white lines thiner I use a citadel fine detail brush(i know GW stuff is a rip off) and should i water it down some because of the most part i just paint out of the pot.

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Get yourself 2 or 3 really high quality Kolinsky Sable (Key: Not just Sable, but 'Kolinsky' Sable) brushes. Brands that come to mind are 'Windsor & Newton Series 7' and 'da Vinci'. You'll want at least one general purpose brush, like a #1 or a #0, and a really nice fine one like a #000. In fact, those three brushes are what I do all of my painting with. A #1 is a bit larger for covering more ground. The #0 is the perfect 'smaller' brush to all kinds of general work, but still has a really nice tip itself. The #000 is for eyes, gems, lenses, etc., since it's quite fine.

 

Be warned, these are quite expensive. However, if you take care of them they will outlast several (even dozens) of the cheaper brushes, hands down. Buy a small container of Brush Soap when you get them. It's cheap, lasts forever with miniature size brushes, and helps keep ALL of your brushes in top form. Proper Brush Soap contains a conditioner that keeps the expensive brushes happy for years.

 

I still own my first #0 W&N Series 7 that's almost 10 years old, and I still use it because even thought its lost some bristles, it still keeps a perfect point. GW brushes haven't been good bang-for-bush since the 'Red Handle - Made in England' (at least here in Canada) ones they had years ago. I still have a few of those, and I'm sure they're Kolinsky Sable, because of how well they've held up. Sadly, the pursuit of highest possible profit margins got the better of GW with regards to many of their tools and supplies. I'll admit, they have gotten much better in quality in recent times, but still not better than outside sources.

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