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Painting a deep/rich/vibrant red


Evicerator

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I know this has been discussed quite a few times before, but as time goes on, new techniques are used/found.

 

Plus as I looked through all of the threads covering this topic, I was only able to come across one red tone that I liked (discussed) which was IronKobra's (black primer, mechrite base, Devlan wash, Mechrite/Blood (50:50) built up in 2 layers, Heavy Baal Wash) which gives the following result (IronKobra's minis, not mine)

 

http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab36/IronKobra84/WIPSternguard27.jpg

 

Then I happened across this pic while google image searching.

 

http://evicerator.com/evicerator/pictures/warhammer/2011wipthread/bloodangels/sam6270.jpg

 

and this color of red looks OUTSTANDING. My problem is that I have NO clue how to achieve this color.

 

So, brothers, it is to you that I come asking how I can achieve this deep, rich, and vibrant red. I'm hoping this is someone from here that painted this particular mini and can divulge his recipe =D

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If you really want a vibrant red I advise two things:

 

1) White primer. Now when I say this I do not say it lightly, as painting over white primer as opposed to black primer is right bugger but it does make your red appear brighter, even when it's relatively dark, like Red Gore.

 

2) A red wash. Or better yet a red ink - it gives a lustre that's difficult to replicate easily and should be applied after you've highlighed by at least one stage. Both tend to unify the base colour and the highlights so that the overall finish is a lot more smooth but do bear in mind that inks give a glossier finish than washes, tending to give a similar depth in the recesses (should you consider using ink and not a wash). :lol:

 

Hope this helps.

 

Edit - Oh and btw, I believe the model in bottom picture has had ink used on it, but I could be wrong.

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I'm 99% sure that's Blood Red on white primer followed by Red Ink (not Wash). I used to paint this way during the 3rd Edition era. Be warned. Painting with Inks is a PITA. I don't even like the way inks look anymore, even with a coat of matt varnish, they still look terribly shiny and unrealistic.
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The vibrancy of a colour in a picture will also depend on how the image was taken. If the model has a wash or varnish coat and the image is taken with a flash this will cause the the colour to be more vibrant..

 

I prefer to take pictures with an off camera flash and if I'm feeling partiularly creative use a softbox or umbrella.

 

Claws

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I'm interested in discussing this too. I've been struggling for a while now to come up with a up-to-date technique that truly satisfies my desire for a deep beautiful red. Lately I have tried adopting the techniques outlined on the From the Warp blog. Here's my attempt on some BA scouts:

gallery_55774_6746_527106.png

If you check out Ron's blog, I feel like his technique comes way closer to that delicious red I'm after than my attempt to ape his recipe. One alleged key difference: I based my scouts in black, Ron claims you need to base in grey. I have never based in grey, always black, and I have an unnatural resistance to changing now. But I like his technique for being relatively uncomplicated and capable of delivering some pretty quality results, if the execution is right.

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Ron is a great painter, I love his red painting style, and it has partially influenced how I do mine. Starting with a neutral grey basecoat is key to achieving a bright red, however. You probably even need white for something really bright.

 

Here's a link to samples of red over grey primer, painted in a method similar to Ron's.

 

Blood Angels Combat Squad

 

One last piece of advice; you are using mechrite red. You will never get a bright red with mechrite red. In my experience it's a very opaque, maroon-ish color. It's not even a red.

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I have never based in grey, always black,

 

 

I wonder at this a lot, as people seem to prime either black or white, but it seems to me that grey is best for almost all painting, as its neutral tone with proper lighting will always be truer to the base colors when the paint job is finished. It never tricks your eye... I think people do black most because it looks better when areas are missed/insufficiently coated.

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Hello.

 

The marine with the thunder hammer is one of my minis.

 

For the red, I use, white skull basecoat and after a new coat of blood red. For the shadow, Red ink and after baal red.

For the highlights, blood red and after blazing orange and a mix of blazing orange and white skull. (1/1).

 

 

This is my flickr Gallery.

 

Visit My Website

 

Aub.

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I do believe that it's red ink that gives it that shiny appearance. If you want to give your model a bit of a shiny finish without it being completely gloss, I would recommend picking up a "satin" finish sealer. In my opinion, this finish looks its best on red and/or black models and really makes their details pop.
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For the red, I use, white skull basecoat and after a new coat of blood red. For the shadow, Red ink and after baal red.

 

Hah! Called it! I knew it had ink on it. :P

 

Also, cracking paintjob on the model, Aubéron.

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