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Blackadders Warlord WIP

Blackadder

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StevePhy Battle-Brother

StevePhy

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Hmm... the yellow may be a tad bright. Have you thought about maybe breaking it up by adding black lines (ala hazard stripes) around the circumference? Maybe darkening/chipping away the yellow to show wear and tear?

I agree. "Caution, railing!" stripes would look better. Also, weathering would add detail as well as tone down the yellow.

 

StevePhy

Blackadder Veteran

Blackadder

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Okay we're going from how to paint handrails to.................

 

The Warlord Colour Scheme At Last:

 

(But true to form it won't be easy)

 

I have finally found a colour scheme I deem acceptable for my Warlord.

 

I was painting the black base coat and reflecting on the 'Avengers' movie when it struck me that the huge flying target aircraft carrier might give me some ideas on how to paint a large military vehicle. Googling images I instead found this (The aircraft carrier was painted like.... well an aircraft carrier; boring) the alien space craft from "Battleship", a movie I have never seen btw.......

 


http://i.imgur.com/dMxkmmrl.jpg

 

Perfect!

 

Now I only have to figure out how to do it.....Ha!

Blackadder Veteran

Blackadder

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Yeah, I never saw the movie, but that looks awfully metallic-shiny. I know it's coming up out of the water, but overall, I don't think it would have a matte look to it. Guess I'll have to watch the movie.

It's the colour scheme I will be attempting not the wet look. The beauty of this paint job will be the alternating white/silver tones alternating with the more amber hued panels which will serve me well as a colour tie in to the Wargryphon motif. I can't picture the Warlord with a huge yellow head but I can with alternating silver and gold hued panels. The dark areas will work well with the mechanical areas as will the illuminated view ports and lighting.

 

It remains to be seen how well I can pull off  the sun glare.

 

I'll begin practice using powdered metal hand rubbed into the base paint later today.

Blackadder Veteran

Blackadder

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Yet Again:

 

Please Blackadder not another series of the Warlord in pieces..........

 

Yes but hopefully this will be the last time until the final assembly after painting.

 

Over the years of this build I have never completely disassembled all the umpity ump components that make up the two main structures of the model.

 


http://i.imgur.com/BDOuxbOl.jpg

 

That being the torso and the leg main assemblies see below:

 


http://i.imgur.com/Ke0TBsml.jpg

 

These structures slide easily apart via the center shaft for ease of transportation.

 

In the following posts today I shall be disassembling all the nonglued parts for black priming so the detail will be obscured  until enhanced with highlighting.

 

Most noteworthy is I completely forgot to detail the bottom of the waist and the pelvis block.
Blackadder Veteran

Blackadder

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First let me warn you you have to wear a dust mask when handling metal powder; I don't want yer mums sending me nasty emails saying the stuff gave junior Alzheimers.
 
After spray painting quite a few of the parts flat black today I tried rubbing in a bit of aluminum powder. A little goes a long way and all I used was the residue on the jar theads to do what is represented here.
 
This first shot from high angle shows the highly reflective quality of aluminum powder. Aluminum is one of the few silver coloured metals that retain it's silver colour when reduced to a talc dust particle size, most others turn black.

http://i.imgur.com/CQhQF1Tl.jpg
 
Just the dome and the top of the helmet was done in this image the rest of the head is still flat black.
 
http://i.imgur.com/rfyibwnl.jpg
 
The breast plate and back panel are highly reflective as well but for some reason do not show as shiny in these images.
 
With no direct light the silver still is highly reflective but still gives a nice shading effect to the deeper recesses, something paint doesn't do, I should have my head examined for trying this out on such a prominent piece.
 
http://i.imgur.com/rpVdTdJl.jpg
 
I tried brushing it on (still using just what is in the threads of the jar) and it applies just as readily with a brush as with a finger.
 
http://i.imgur.com/vzX3HVkl.jpg
 
Once applied it stays put although I'm sure it can be removed with soap and water as it comes off your fingers readily enough when washed.....
 
In all a satisfactory experiment, I still have the copper and the brass dust to try and some steel blue dust for contrast...
 
I may never use paint again.
Blackadder Veteran

Blackadder

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Whoa!

 
Sorry to tout my own horn but; Whoa!!!! This is what I was looking for. I wish the camera could show precisely what I am seeing in person because the highlights and colour shift as you look over the piece are breathtaking.
 
At the very least Chrsygon / Dirty Harry looks like he's made of pewter and I couldn't be more pleased.
 
http://i.imgur.com/g7CYt4cl.jpg
 
The gluing damage where I first glued the veneer to the cheek armour replicates battle damage and dents from normal wear and tear perfectly; just what you would expect from millennia of service.
 
Most of what you see was applied in ten minutes hand rubbed into the basic black matte spray paint with no prep.
 
http://i.imgur.com/WcRsnnXl.jpg
 
This last shot shows the base coat and the edge of the finished cheek where I stopped to take these images.
 
Note the colour shift due to slightly different angle of the light source.
 
http://i.imgur.com/uHF8QHDl.jpg
 
This is precisely what I was looking for as a finish for this model. 
 
Plus, Instant Patine 
Blackadder Veteran

Blackadder

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Not All Beer and Skittles: 

or The Black Adder holds nothing back...........
 
Just to show my humility this series of images demonstrate my fallibility. Yesterday I posted images of my first attempt at a new (to me) technique that I stumbled upon quite by accident; in other words I found no instructions on the 'net demonstrating the howto and pitfalls of working with powdered metal.
 
Today I shall be showing my mistakes:
 
First I made the mistake of working in front of my computer so everything has a fine coating of aluminum powder that only ingrains itself if rubbed. Make sure you work in an environment that does not matter if it has a metal sheen when you are finished.
 
http://i.imgur.com/GbUUl6il.jpg
 
I have since moved my operation to the kitchen. :D
 
Second I touted the availability of this powder. I bought mine a few years ago when I was building Lucie my Warhound at that time I was looking for a dry material for the pistons that would act as a lubricant and allow them to telescope freely and the aluminum served the purpose admirably.
 
http://i.imgur.com/NTkWEMBl.jpg
 
Well I did a search on the 'net and the company that produced the material appears to no longer produce the material thanks no doubt to the extreme 'Nanny-statism of the location of the company i.e. California. I have not yet found an alternative source so I'll post a link to the company's web page.....
 
 
If you can find the product there, let me know.
 
Third I took some flash images of the work completed and although the eye cannot discern the difference apparently what is under the powder changes the albedo of the surface giving the two tone helmet/visor/face mask look under flash; 
 
http://i.imgur.com/VnN3Eicl.jpg
 
not a big problem for me now that I have discovered it because I already had decided to try to sand off the striations on the brow and give the helmet a redo.
 
Lastly I stated that I bought this products from 'Sipersteins' paint store; judging by the stick on pricing tag(s) this product had remained on the shelf for quite some time before being bought by me. (Few stores mark prices on items anymore)* I am willing to bet that it is no longer commercially available because of presumed toxicity. (While I took obvious precautions of nose filter and dust mask) I imagine this product would not be a good choice of topping for your breakfast cereal. 
 
http://i.imgur.com/HSzOdXNl.jpg
 
The same mentality that enforces mindless choking laws on kids' toys (Don't these kids play outside where, "Horrors!" lethal pebbles and acorns lurk and abound...,  and mandatory headgear of bike riders has pulled products of this kind from the market even for the use by competent adults.......
 
Thank you Nanny State. 
 
* When bar codes were first introduced people complained that they did not have any idea what the items cost so shelf marking tags were legislated with the following law introduced that, "If the product does not have a shelf tag stating the price and unit price/weight the store is bound to give you the item for free."
 
Does that law still apply? Has anyone tested that law lately? How many times have you picked up a product that was mislabeled only to find it costing more at the register. Do you fight for the discount? or let it go? 
Blackadder Veteran

Blackadder

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Afghanistan Banana Stand:

 
Since the albedo so manifested itself in the flash I now can perceive the difference so there is nothing for it but to redo the helmet and whilst doing attempt to remove the unsightly striations in the brow. I first scrapped off the old layers of paint down to where the seams were not visible. A few nicks won't matter;
 
http://i.imgur.com/2VefLhql.jpg
 
I then wet sanded the brow to remove the scraps. The good new is the wet sanding got water on the powder but did not compromise it in the least so water won't damage the finish even without sealing.
 
http://i.imgur.com/HMFA8wMl.jpg
 
Next I'll let it dry overnight and apply a base coat of black tomorrow followed tomorrow with an application of aluminum powder. 
 
http://i.imgur.com/oKJF3Ttl.jpg
 
Banana included for scale.............
Blackadder Veteran

Blackadder

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An Impromptu Filler:

 
On occasion I have to resort to patching or filling poorly mated seams such as on the helmet where the base plate is ragged where it meets the lower edge of the brow. Now I could fill the gap with 'Greenstuff' and wait for it to dry, and sand it off but who has the time.
 
Here's a trick that is ready to sand in minutes, durable and cheap.
 
I amass some styrene sanding residue, (In this case I just cleaned the plastic dust off of my sanding blocks.) into a small pile on my work board. I then applied the thinset cement to the offending gap and dipped the glue engorged seam into the pile of styrene dust. A few repeats of the process fills the gap with the identical material as the original styrene which the can be sanded and painted just as the original piece. 
 
http://i.imgur.com/qgZuwEAl.jpg
 
A simple yet effective solution.
Blackadder Veteran

Blackadder

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The helmet is upside down to show the area under discussion. It's slanted to show the filled seam with grey GW styrene dust.

 

Pardon My Dust:

 
While waiting for paint and glue to dry I started on the detail of the Command Deck.
 
Using the flash I was not aware of how much dust styrene filing was present on the model. Thankfully the Warlord head escaped contamination. 
 
http://i.imgur.com/3hOIvsnl.jpg
 
All the bitz are CoD
 
http://i.imgur.com/BV7V9Bp.jpg
 
I'm really pleased that the vestibule lines up with the external 'Door to Nowhere. Purely by accident I assure you.
 
http://i.imgur.com/e8e9GLDl.jpg
 
http://i.imgur.com/DLNk8tgl.jpg
 
The right side external catwalk
 
http://i.imgur.com/3Gwru4sl.jpg
 
The Left side catwalk
 
http://i.imgur.com/tgmLiwkl.jpg
 
The internal detail on this deck is only about half done FYI.
StevePhy Battle-Brother

StevePhy

Posted
Posted

 

An Impromptu Filler:

 
On occasion I have to resort to patching or filling poorly mated seams such as on the helmet where the base plate is ragged where it meets the lower edge of the brow. Now I could fill the gap with 'Greenstuff' and wait for it to dry, and sand it off but who has the time.
 
Here's a trick that is ready to sand in minutes, durable and cheap.
 
I amass some styrene sanding residue, (In this case I just cleaned the plastic dust off of my sanding blocks.) into a small pile on my work board. I then applied the thinset cement to the offending gap and dipped the glue engorged seam into the pile of styrene dust. A few repeats of the process fills the gap with the identical material as the original styrene which the can be sanded and painted just as the original piece. 

 
http://i.imgur.com/qgZuwEAl.jpg
 
A simple yet effective solution.

 

Must have been the way it downloaded to my phone. It looks normal now. Thanks! Looking good!

Blackadder Veteran

Blackadder

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What a Difference a Day Makes:

 
Last week I embarked on an experimental technique to try to find a decent finish for my Warlord. Painting it a straight this or that colour confounded me because once that colour you are pigeonholed into a theme. Nothing grabbed me as the definitive end all and be all of finishes until I chanced upon the 'Battleship' alien watercraft. There was the finish I coveted for my titan.
 
In a hurry as is my wont when I conceive of a direction I plunged ahead committing the most prominent assembly of the model to dubious untried ministrations and fortuitously the technique worked, the the results were satisfactory.and I proceeded to embellish a few other parts of the model with the same procedure. 
 
http://i.imgur.com/WcRsnnXl.jpg
 
Upon photographing the results I found the aluminum powder augmented the detail but also augmented mistakes, poorly sanded areas and lastly subsurface paint which changed the reflecting value of the new surface material.
 
So yesterday scraping, sanding and wet sanding the helmet, first piece I did, resulted in the finish today which I consider a distinct improvement.  
 
http://i.imgur.com/t0i3u18l.jpg
 
Fortunately as this is the only piece that requires such an intense refinish; I can now proceed with the rest of the model.
 
Whoops, slightly out of focus; I'll try again later.
StevePhy Battle-Brother

StevePhy

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He was before the times. Look how we're moving towards corporate involvement in the space industry. He had the sci-fi as a vehicle for issues. He was a true Grand Master. Sorry to hijack the topic. I'm done.

 

Question about D.H., are you going to have bits like banners and such?

 

StevePhy

Blackadder Veteran

Blackadder

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There will be banners and War Gryphon heraldry enough to satisfy the most ardent gamer but right now I am busy disassembling the Warlord to paint and powder which at the moment is my prime concern. I also plan lighting, chasing diode displays in the gun barrels (TurboLasers) and working search lights on the greaves; that plus the interior lighting will keep me busy for the foreseeable future but once the painting and the coat of aluminum is done the model will be ostensibly complete; the rest will be window dressing............ oh yeah, I have to install the windows after the aluminum is done.

Blackadder Veteran

Blackadder

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Unreasonable Demands:

 
Due to unreasonable demands I have not been able to devote more than a few minutes this past week to applying aluminum to the legs and feet of the Warlord but this afternoon I got a bit done unfortunately I lost the light so I had to rely on the ambient light of my workshop.

http://i.imgur.com/39ctT0pl.jpg
 
The flash being too intense and the normal lighting being too muted; the actual is somewhere in between.
 
http://i.imgur.com/FJnPsErl.jpg
 
The bottom line is I am quite pleased with the outcome but the number of discrete pieces have me floored and I haven't even got to the main torso yet.
 
http://i.imgur.com/GCMoZEPl.jpg
 
Better pictures tomorrow where I only have to work for a living instead of catering to the whims of the lovely Mme Blackadder.........
 
http://i.imgur.com/9TkBTAOl.jpg
 
First glance at the images under flash look far too granular, such is not the case but merely an optical illusion of the camera, the actual surface is much more refined.
Blackadder Veteran

Blackadder

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So What ARE Those Wires Sticking Out Of the Greaves Blackadder?

 
Back about two or more years ago I got the idea of wiring diodes into  the greave mounted search lights and to that end I installed the harness and the battery compartment and just left them dangling until today.
 
I have the parts and the electronics ready but to make this work I need lenses to fit the searchlight bitz so here's a brief tutorial of how I intend to produce the lenses.
 
http://i.imgur.com/txwUjFMl.jpg
 
I started by cutting square blanks out of clear styrene and gluing the blanks onto the ends of 7/16 inch (11 MM) using various sanding tools to produce the small round transparent lenses.
 
Pictured are the tubes with the blanks glued on; one before and one after (You have to look close to see the rounded lens still glued to the tube. 
 
http://i.imgur.com/MO6rEaXl.jpg
 
Also pictured in the top image are the greave mounted search lights positioned on the flying greave panel.
Blackadder Veteran

Blackadder

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I appreciate that, the main purpose of these threads are to share techniques and while I still have a lot to learn I try to demonstrate what I have discovered over the years. Showing completed work in a grand tour d'force doesn't help anyone who wants to learn. 

 

Scratch building is a daunting endeavor to the newly initiated into modeling so getting someone started with these little hints may make that first step less intimidating. The problem is it's hard for me to guess what help is required.

 

Yesterday when I started the searchlights I hadn't figured out how I would make the lenses until I remembered the discs I make for the cylinder end caps. Simple in retrospect but sometimes the obvious needs to be pointed out.

 

Now I'm going to try to make fresnel lenses in an attempt to see if I can diffuse the diode light.

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