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Plastic Glue gone manky!


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Hi all,

 

I haven't done much modelling recently but the last time I did I had to buy a new bottle of GW plastic glue. Only used a tiny bit and the rest went back in my building box for a few months. Thing is, when I got it out again last week it had gone all thick and tacky, and left behind little streamers of glue hanging off the model that I was building.

 

Just wondering, is there any way to thin it back down a bit so I don't have to chuck a whole bottle? Presumably it's not water based, but is there another (cheap) solvent to use?

 

I know glue is pretty cheap anyway, but I figured if there's a simple way to fix it without having to wait to go to the shops for more...

 

 

Anyway, thanks in advance!

 

Lysimachus

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You'll need a solvent, and I don't think they make 'glue thinner', but I might be wrong. The only solution I can think of involves more glue... go figure. I use a thicker brush-on glue sometimes, and it tends to thicken up too much over time. When it does, I'll add a bit of the extra thin glue I use to thin it back down.

 

That said, part of the reason why my thick glue tends to get too thick is because how little I use it now that I've found thin plastic glue. I use the thin glue so much more now, the thick glue just sits. GW has just introduced a new 'thin' plastic glue, but the price the attach to it is bordering on crazy. I can buy 40ml of 'Tamiya Extra Thin' glue for $6 from my local hobby shop. GW is charging 8$ for 0.7 fl. oz. (~20ml) of their product. No thanks.

 

If you find you need to replace your plastic glue, take a look at a thin alternative. You can use it to bring your old glue back to life, but you might find you prefer it in the long run.

You might be able to thin it down with some kind of solvent, but by far the best thing to do is to pitch it in the trash and pick up a bottle of Testors or Revell or Tamiya cement. They're dramatically superior to GW's product, and usually cheaper.
You'll need a solvent, and I don't think they make 'glue thinner', but I might be wrong.

If you have such a solvent, it makes more sense to "glue" (actually: weld) your models with that solvent, than thinning your plastic cement with it …

 

For the most part, you're right. But, even extra thin glue (Read: mostly solvent) has a few qualities that are different than straight solvent.

 

Primarily, all glue has some suspended plastic and/or other additives in the mix to help with a few things. First, it helps 'bridge the gap' between two pieces and get a better bond. Secondly, straight solvent has a good chance of being too strong, and could melt the plastic too aggressively. Finally, my preferred brand of extra thin glue isn't as 'watery' as a straight solvent would be. The ever-so-slight viscosity helps the glue stay were I put it, and not puddle, drip, or run.

For the record: I've been glueing plastic parts together with "pure" solvent for about two decades :drool: The easiest way to use it is to first put the parts together and then run the solvent into the join between them with a brush (don't use your best paintbrush for this, in case you need to be told). However, I also keep a tube of plastic cement handy just in case I need it — which is very rarely, I have to say.

I can never get the really thin solvent glues to cooperate, even using the method you describe. They always seem to be too 'hot' and I can't get the right amount. They either evaporate too fast, and don't give enough bond, or I add too much and it melts a little too aggressively. They also always seem to evaporate from even a firmly closed bottle, which baffles me.

 

Granted, I was trying to work with them when I first started scratch building with styrene, and I still had much to learn. Once I found a product that had just a bit of viscosity the added control helped me immensely. As with most things, to each their own. But you have got me thinking, maybe I should revisit some products and techniques that were beyond my skill level so many years ago.

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