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Brother Hugo the Indomitable


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Not 100% what kind of comments you are looking for. Critique? Advice?

 

My advice would be to just be a little more patient and to do some simple cleanup.

 

Thin your paints a bit since it looks very thick on the model.

 

Cleanup wise make sure to get all those mold lines, burrs where you have taken the bits off the sprue and also to go back and check to see where you have gotten different colour paint where it shouldnt be. I see a gold smudge on his back pack and a black one on his chest eagle. There is also gold that needs to be removed from the edges of the armour joints on the the back of his legs as well as around the skull on his back pack.

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I'm looking for absolutely harsh, viscous criticism. Seriously, just take this apart, and tell me everything that sucks about it. I can't improve if people don't help me out.

Thank you for actually caring enough about your painting to ask for honesty. I've seen some models in here that look like they were dipped in a can of paint and people always say stuff like, "I like your color scheme" "Good job for your first try" and some other BS.

 

Ok, so here is my C&C.

 

First the model itself.

I see absolutely nothing that would would make me think that was a chaplain. Also, the position is awkward. He's looking straight ahead, but pointing with his sword. Turn the head so it is looking at where it is aiming or pointing. Typically chaplains have the skull looking helmets and more ornate armor. You could use Chaos Berzerker legs and torso with all the Khorne stuff scrapped off. Here's one I did for my friend. He wanted a dark/black metal armor instead of the traditional black Chaplain armor. See if you can find a Chaos SM player that's willing to trade or give you some bits.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff246/eviltony/Space%20Marines/DSC07285.jpg

 

Here's another one I did for a little kid at my GW. It's lot more simple conversion than the Berzerker.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff246/eviltony/DSC07229.jpg

 

Now the painting.

Did you use primer, or did you paint straight on to the plastic?

It looks like you used glossy paint. I know this is preference, but I think flat acrylic paint is best. I don't like it when armor looks like a freshly detailed, polished car. But like I said, this is more preference than anything else, it's not like it's wrong or anything.

The biggest problem I see is that you need to clean up after yourself. There are a lot of gold blemishes all over the model. The left shoulder pad by the exhaust, the backpack on the grill, on the back of the knees, on the staff, on the front knees, the arm joints, the bottom of the respirator (face mask), on the torso below the armpit.

Did you make the banner and gun holster gold? I don't like either, but again this is more a comment on personal taste and not on technique. The back of the banner appears to be solid gold, including the banner pole. At the very least the pole should be a different color. Metal or even black or grey. I would chop off the banner and add a Chapter Banner Top to make a Crozious.

Don't paint gold over black, because most of the time it shows through. I always paint whatever I'm painting gold, brown first. I looks like you didn't finish the gold on the sword chain and the banner handle seems unfinished as well.

The eyes seem flat. Look at tutorial on how to paint SM eyes.

I can't really see the highlights on the black armor, unless you mean the gold trim.

Here are two Chaplains from GW site so you can see how black armor should be highlighted.

http://www.games-workshop.com/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m1240780_99060101252_SMJumpPackChapmain_873x627.jpg

http://www.games-workshop.com/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m990091a_99060101454_BALemartes1_873x627.jpg

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Wow, I really appreciate this. I came into this hobby with little practical knowledge, but you've acutally given me stuff to work with. Yes, these are primed, with a flat grey color. Part of the lack of detail for the eyes is that i'm still learning how to paint tiny details. My camera killed the highlighting, and combined with none too good pictures, it's almost impossible to see. Also, a little bit of clarity on the Chappy in Training bit. Fluff wise, this guy is part of a Chaplain's Command Squad, and is devoute even by Templar Standards. I might take up the Crozius suggestion, but I am still very new, and lacking in any amount of bits to use.

 

Also, I like my Marines shiny, it gives them the 'shining pargons of purity' look that I'm looking for.

 

However, looks like simple green is in my future, and then back to the painting table.

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My humble advice, based on my own experience, about going green crazy, since lav25 already covered pretty much everything else:

 

DONT.

 

NOT YET AT LEAST.

 

 

Just go on and paint any other model, experiment, practice, learn, but also and most important, have fun. If you got stick with one model until its perfect, youll suffer the hobby... And probably get sick of it. Just go and build another model and start over, when you start feeling you reached a good painting standar, you can go back to your old mdels and better/repaint them.

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Hmm...

 

Well, a few things. For one, I agree that gold shouldn't be ainted over black. Gold is a real nuisance to paint by my experience, but others seem to make it dance off the brush. Anyway, brown is always a better basecoat. As always, thin your paints. If it only takes one quick coat, you're either using a wash or doing it wrong.

 

On highlighting black: I use a tried and true technique that many of our BT brethren subscribe to. The first highlight can be sloppy, a mix of roughly 50:50 Codex Gray and Chaos Black (no idea what this is in the new paint range, but whatever). Second, a very fine, thin highlight of pure Codex gray that leaves some of the previous one showing. The beauty of painting black is that it's easy to clean up sloppy messes by simply filling in and 'pushing' black towards the edges until you're left with a thin line.

 

On the freehand, the cross is in bad need of cleaning up. I use a technique in this link on all my crosses with subtle variations, and with only a bit of practice you should find it produces very reliable results: http://forums.relicnews.com/showthread.php...age10&pp=15

 

Finally, as was already said, the gold needs to be toned down a bit. Too much gold almost always looks garish, unless you put a lot of work into adding shading to it (like Minotaurs/Sanguinary Guard, for example). Gold on gold on gold on gold will just take away from the effect of making it stand out. Things like the banner pole or banner itself being gold is good, but both washes it out. Likewise, having subtle 'background' parts of the model like Soft Armor joints in gold creates an odd effect that instinctively draws the eye away from the black, no matter how well painted. In short, pick and choose, instead of going full tilt with it.

 

I've got my own BT work linked in my Sig, and it has painting advice peppered throughout the pages that you may or may not find useful. At any rate, I'd recommend building a handful of practice models to just learn the core techniques, before going through the trouble of stripping your model and repainting it.

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...However, looks like simple green is in my future, and then back to the painting table.

 

My humble advice, based on my own experience, about going green crazy, since lav25 already covered pretty much everything else:

 

DONT.

NOT YET AT LEAST.

 

Just go on and paint any other model, experiment, practice, learn, but also and most important, have fun. If you got stick with one model until its perfect, youll suffer the hobby... And probably get sick of it. Just go and build another model and start over, when you start feeling you reached a good painting standar, you can go back to your old mdels and better/repaint them.

 

I agree with Wayward. There is no need to start over. Specially with a black armor, you can simply paint the problem areas with black again. In fact, you can probably turn this guy into a sergeant. Send me a private message and I'll see if I can hook you up with some bits to make a Chaplain.

You should always take your time with your HQ and your sergeants. The best advice I can give you is to TAKE YOUR TIME. Work on one area at a time and then check it before you move on. Start from the bottom up, and check each leg. Ask yourself, "what's wrong here" and then either fix it or move to the next area.

With practice will come speed. A normal troop might take you anywhere from 2-6 hours (depending on your standard), but with time you'll be able to get consistent results every time in less and less time. When I first started, it took me like 6 hours to do one Marine. Now it takes me about an hour and a half.

This 'hobby' is not cheap, so my make damn sure that my army looks as good as I can make it. Some of these models range in price from $4 up to $22 for a single model.

 

Also, YouTube is a great source of knowledge on painting. I read articles and watched videos for like 4 months before I painted my first mode. Here's a video from my favorite painter on how to paint a chaplain.

 

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