frostclaw222 Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Greetings. Longtime poster in the very early phases of modeling. I'm in the process of building a Great Company (or so) of VI Legion. Was hoping to get some constructive comments and criticism, possibly some tips. This community's been really helpful for me over the years with fluff and rules and whatnot, so now I'm wading out deeper into the hobby and actually doing a little more. Still new to conversions and whatnot, but would appreciate any feedback. Thanks, Frosty Frostclaw's Fracas on the Bolter and Chainsword EDIT: Scratch that link to the blog if you want close-up pics and not the commentary. Here's a link to my image gallery (it also includes new scout pics that the blog does not yet have): Frosty's B and C Gallery Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/250264-request-for-review-and-feedback/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wulfebane Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 The project looks great so far. If I had to make any criticism, it'd be in the formatting. Your pics were a touch on the small side to really get in and see the intricacies. Excellent use of kitbashing, particularly the use of bionic arms and fantasy heads. One thing I'd caution you on in regards to converting is to pay close attention to the neck when using non space marine heads. If done improperly, it can look like their neck is too long, or that they have no neck at all.For the latter, even a small ball of GS can be enough to bridge the gap, and often with fantasy heads, the hair/beards will be enough to cover the gs afterward. Keep at it, and can't wait to see you get to painting! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/250264-request-for-review-and-feedback/#findComment-3033516 Share on other sites More sharing options...
frostclaw222 Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 Yeah...I've noticed about the necks. Am headed back stateside in a week or so, and am getting some GS then for just this reason. Eventually, there will be cloaks and beards and various other bits GS'd onto these guys (I'm actually going to work my way up to some vintage Prospero Burns knotwork, hopefully, maybe even some of the aversion masks), but right now, I think getting necks and gap-filling will go a long way. I'll work on the format. Had uploaded them to a separate blog and the larger pics over there were screwing with the format due to size, and then I ported them over here post-format, so that's a learning-curve thing for me, too. Hopefully, next round I can get around some of those newbie mistakes. Which brings to mind a good question: Is there a "better" place to upload pics to for linking them here than some other places? I only ask so that I'm not compounding bad pic links with worse pic links. Thanks, Wulfebane. EDIT: Wait, did I just accidentally "I am aware of my shortcoming, and will endeavor to not repeat it" there? :( Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/250264-request-for-review-and-feedback/#findComment-3033528 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dewi Sant Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Before you drill the barrel on the bolter take a needle or safety pin in make a mark in center of th barrel where you want the hole to be. That way it will give the drill bit a guide hole and stop you going off center. As for mould lines GW files are more than up to the job. Be careful using other brand files because they can be harsh an leav file marks. I have also benne using the GW finecast mould line tool. It works just as well on plastic as it does on resin. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/250264-request-for-review-and-feedback/#findComment-3033612 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forté Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Wasn't sure if flaggelant heads would work but you've proved they do ;) Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/250264-request-for-review-and-feedback/#findComment-3033729 Share on other sites More sharing options...
frostclaw222 Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 The flagellant heads work better on TDA figs, forte. As Wulfebane said, with the Fantasy line heads, in some cases, you have to build up a neck for them. There are a few poses where I have the overall line of the figure bent forward and the head looking up and howling. It'll be a great image when they're at the front of the pack with the standard-bearer, but the simple reality is that with a few dabs of GS, they could be a little more stately. The good news, though? Those heads make a serious one-shot improvement to Wolf Scouts. Eventually, the scout included in these photos may get a wolfskin cloak, but right now, he just looks too bad-a$$ to touch. It's smooth, understated, and doesn't look over-kitbashed. Dewi Sant, I'm actually hitting up the GW at the Fair Oaks mall when I'm back in VA next weekend, for some Finecast purchases (I want to inspect in-store and say massive Guam-to-wherever shipping delays for defects--first finecast purchases), so I'll take a look. Thanks for the heads up on the barrel-drilling. What size bit should I use on bolters, pistols, etc? Is there an accepted standard? Appreciate the positive and helpful feedback, guys. For a while there, I was seriously just going to try to write a large design document and have someone put them together for me, paint them, etc, but it really does feel great to delve deeper into this part of the hobby, and discover things on my own. That being said, I think I really need to lever back on browsing bitz sites...it's far too tempting, and quicker then I'd like, there's a hundred dollar shopping cart with my name on it. Speak of which: is Bits Barn still alive? Saw their site, called them, but got a voicemail system that didn't sound like them. Was going to ask if they were still stocking Forge World stuff or not. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/250264-request-for-review-and-feedback/#findComment-3033927 Share on other sites More sharing options...
maverik_girl Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 bigger pictures will help, so far they look alright, not sure about the angle of the photography, but some of your poses don't do it justice. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/250264-request-for-review-and-feedback/#findComment-3033960 Share on other sites More sharing options...
frostclaw222 Posted April 7, 2012 Author Share Posted April 7, 2012 Frosty's Image Gallery at B and C Fancy that, all images (including a few new ones of scouts from today) uploaded here locally and embiggened. Will update link at top of the thread, but anyone who wants to take a closer look, there you are. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/250264-request-for-review-and-feedback/#findComment-3034036 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forté Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 Much better to see. You have let yourself down though. Mold lines! It's easier to remove them before assembly. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/250264-request-for-review-and-feedback/#findComment-3034071 Share on other sites More sharing options...
frostclaw222 Posted April 7, 2012 Author Share Posted April 7, 2012 I know there are mold lines. Sadly, there's not a hobby shop here on the island that I've been able to find, but I'll be flying back to the states soon, and finding files is the first thing on my list. I did what I could with a bare straight edge, but that got a little dangerous to both my hands and the models. Pursuant to that, some folks have said the standard GW files are sufficient to the task, but I'm wondering if there's a spot in northern Virginia that anyone's aware of (I'll be staying in Fairfax) that stocks something better. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/250264-request-for-review-and-feedback/#findComment-3034163 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wulfebane Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 I know there are mold lines. Sadly, there's not a hobby shop here on the island that I've been able to find, but I'll be flying back to the states soon, and finding files is the first thing on my list. I did what I could with a bare straight edge, but that got a little dangerous to both my hands and the models. Pursuant to that, some folks have said the standard GW files are sufficient to the task, but I'm wondering if there's a spot in northern Virginia that anyone's aware of (I'll be staying in Fairfax) that stocks something better. I haven't used a file in years. You can do perfectly fine with a simple xacto blade. However, instead of cutting toward you, face the blade away from you and drag it against the seams as you pull it toward you. Start off with light pressure and gradually increase.. might take a couple passes. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/250264-request-for-review-and-feedback/#findComment-3034172 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forté Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 Side of a knife blade works perfectly. GW files are overrated. You can use any mini files but those are more for metal minis. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/250264-request-for-review-and-feedback/#findComment-3034514 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dewi Sant Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 If you are having problem this article by Ron over at FROM THE WARP might help you out. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/250264-request-for-review-and-feedback/#findComment-3034579 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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