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Badab Black vs. Nul Oil


Tybrus

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Ok so like it says, I have used both now. Here is what I have found...

 

 

 

 

 

Nul Oil is a great wash, it is great for black lining even on dark colors. When used to wash the entire marine it leaves the marine Far darker over all then badab black did. I have even gone so far as to mix thinner with nul oil (3 parts nul to 1 part thinner) that left the over all figure way to dark. I have used many combo's of thinner and nul oil if as much as 3 thinner 1 part nul. However, I can not get the same effects as good ol badab black. Now if anyone has any advice for this I would be grateful!

 

Thanks

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Picked up some "Secret Weapon Black" something or other, its the Secret weapon one. Used it straight, and 50/50 thinner with mixed results. Straight it was much like Nul-Oil, to dark, I like nul better of the two. However when mixed 50/50 it works better then Nul at the same mixture. It's still to dark for me. Also note I tried mixing this one with water and had horrid results. When put on a model it turned into droplets that would not work at all. Had no control at all, and it dried in streaks.

This is a shame. Badab Black was a great wash. I like having a darker Black wash, and used to mix a custom bottle by adding a bit of ink to a bottle of Badab Black. But, I also keep an 'as-is' bottle for the more subtle shading jobs. Choice is a good thing, and it's easier to add than take away.

 

The only thing I can suggest beyond using even more thinner is a proper acrylic medium. You'll need to go to a well stocked art store and have a look in their acrylic paint section. Look for a matte acrylic medium that is as thin as you can get - they come in soft, medium, and heavy thicknesses. I use a brand called Golden. It's always going to be too thick, so it'll need to be thinned down itself. But, since it's proper acrylic medium (basically acrylic paint without and colour pigment) it should be able to thin out the wash while keeping its drying strength and flow.

 

If you still have a bit of Badab Black kicking around, I suggest putting a smear of it on a pallet, and using that as a control. Then mix a 3/4 full bottle of acrylic medium thinned down until it's got the right wash-like consistency. Then, keep adding Nuln Oil to that base. Every time you add a measure of Nuln Oil and mix it, take a bit and smear it beside the Badab Black reference. Once they are close, you should get the results you're looking for.

 

This is how I usually mix washes when I don't have a set recipe of X drops of ink to X amount of base. I hope it's helpful.

This is a shame. Badab Black was a great wash. I like having a darker Black wash, and used to mix a custom bottle by adding a bit of ink to a bottle of Badab Black. But, I also keep an 'as-is' bottle for the more subtle shading jobs. Choice is a good thing, and it's easier to add than take away.

 

The only thing I can suggest beyond using even more thinner is a proper acrylic medium. You'll need to go to a well stocked art store and have a look in their acrylic paint section. Look for a matte acrylic medium that is as thin as you can get - they come in soft, medium, and heavy thicknesses. I use a brand called Golden. It's always going to be too thick, so it'll need to be thinned down itself. But, since it's proper acrylic medium (basically acrylic paint without and colour pigment) it should be able to thin out the wash while keeping its drying strength and flow.

 

If you still have a bit of Badab Black kicking around, I suggest putting a smear of it on a pallet, and using that as a control. Then mix a 3/4 full bottle of acrylic medium thinned down until it's got the right wash-like consistency. Then, keep adding Nuln Oil to that base. Every time you add a measure of Nuln Oil and mix it, take a bit and smear it beside the Badab Black reference. Once they are close, you should get the results you're looking for.

 

This is how I usually mix washes when I don't have a set recipe of X drops of ink to X amount of base. I hope it's helpful.

 

Great answer, I will do so this week. Thanks for taking the time to explain it so well. Might want to post it to the tutorials section...

Citadel paints are near worthless. Especially for wash effects.

 

You need to go buy yourself a tube of LAMP BLACK oil and a can of Turpenoid.

 

Thin the oil down until it is correct. Test it on a base.

 

The wash will dry overnight. Don't listen to idiots.

 

If you really want the proper effect use Tamiya Glosscote on the affected area before washing. That way you can go back with a q-tip and Turpenoid and remove the wash from the high spots.

 

Really, if you can't take the wash back off the top it isn't a wash at all. It is just a muddy acrylic stain.

 

Dullcote before you drybrush to get the right texture and finish.

 

Mix your Enamel equiv. of your basecoat with white oil to drybrush / highlight.

 

If you have only 'drybrushed' with acrylic paints then you have never drybrushed. Acrylic paints only streak and smear. The effect that guys like Verlinden describe as drybrush cannot be achieved with shoddy acrylic paints.

I've brought Nul Oil and i must say after reading this thread i was concerned but I'm actually really impressed with the product.

 

Its as good as badab black in my opinion maybe slightly better,its got better tension so it capiliaries towards the crevases and one i've gone over the whole model i washed the brush and then used it to remove some of the excess and then make it a flat colour on the surface.

 

Also 2/3 coats in Space Marine leg joints turns them black which is great :cuss

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