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New Colours Advise?


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Since i havent found my colours yet, i cannot tell which of them is usable still...so im thinking of buying those new colours!

 

According to GWs Colour reference chart they advise caliban green, biel-tan green, warpstone glow, moot green underhive ash and waywatcher green...

 

What about DW/RW/robes and details? Besides that all i know is i want my Angels Dark...and i mean really dark, so its almost black on the first look, hard to imagine how to achieve that with new colors and the fact i havent painted for years now! <_<

 

Any Help or advise is most appreciated!

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well, if you want dark....

 

I recommend the following.

 

base: caliban green mixed with nuln oil. (mixing w/a wash helps it glide on real nice)

layer: caliban green. thats it. be sure to thin it.

highlight: caliban green mixed 50/50 warpstone glow. again, be sure to thin it.

edge highlight: warpstone glow

 

finally use the waywatcher green glaze, thi will mute the highlight a little, which helps with the tron effect.

hope this helps

Brother-Chaplain Nemiel, my jumping off point is always either the latest GW with painting examples in it or the paint suggestions on the GW site. If you tell me what metallics you are looking at, I can give some suggestions, but I haven't bought all the new metallics yet, so I can't give any examples beyond the silver-ish I've already painted up.

 

As far as the Deathwing, if you are going for warm white/bone, one of my bone examples will probably work for you, same for the bone white robe colorations, though if you want bright bone, add a layer of White Scar beyond any of my examples for a really extreme white highlight. If you want it totally bright, start from Zandri Dust, don't use any shades, and build up to a heavy white layer, rather than the thinner layerings I did.

 

For Ravenwing, you're going to need Abaddon Black, Nuln Oil (not sure just how much shading you'll really get this way, but try it out), and then you'll want to decide how you want to highlight:

-For pure black, I would use either Mechanicus Standard Grey or Eshin Grey, whichever is darker, as the thickest/broadest edge highlight, then later another highlight with the brighter of the two, if you fancy it. Whether you do or don't, move to Dawnstone afterward. If you want a stark, bright corner highlight, use Administratium Grey.

 

-For a blue black, there are probably a couple of ways to go about it:

Abaddon Black -> Nuln Oil -> The Fang -> Russ Grey

Abaddon Black -> Nuln Oil -> Dark Reaper -> Thunderhawk Blue

Abaddon Black -> Nuln Oil -> Naggaroth Night -> Xereus Purple

Abaddon Black -> Nuln Oil -> Kantor Blue -> Alaitoc Blue

Which of those you'd like best I can only guess, the first two would be more blue-grey for highlights, the second is probably going to be more midnight blue-purplish, and the later is probably a pure blue highlight over black.

 

For a dingy black-grey, go Abaddon Black -> Nuln Oil -> Scavenblight Dinge -> Stormvermin Fur

 

Glad that thread seems to be helping folks/giving ideas.

 

Good luck, Brother-Chaplain Nemiel, and if you can, post your steps/color usages along with your final images so that we can all see more results with the new paint colors.

@Furioso Prime: Will do some basing/priming on my Vow stuff 2day, and if i get to it, the base paintcoat of Caliban green with Nuln oil...

You said that the paint will glide better that way, but as i dont have a clue about those paints, i guess this mixture will be darker than caliban green? Any suggestions about mixture ratio? Or just thin it down with nuln oil untill it flows better?

 

Will do some testing later, but im kind of afraid than anytime i mix up this basecoat ill get different results?

um about 50/50 is good, but yeah stop when you find something you like. also you should invest in some flow aid by liquitex (michael's about 7-8$ a container) mix that at a 1/10 with distilled water (grocerry store about 2$ for a gallon) then mix the flo aid and paint just like your thinning your paints with water.

 

I like the flow aid mix. it's like adding angel tears to your paint! magic. the flow aid help the paint glide off the brush and improves suface saturation ie. better coverage. also, you can duy some matte medium (again liquitex) mix that with the flo aid mix 50/50 and add some artist water proof acrylic inks and bingo, you just made your own washes you should check out les' awesome paint job website.

wash recipes

 

these washes are frikkin amazing, and you can customize them to the project for about $60 I had enough stuff to make about 70 1 oz bottles of various color washes.

I am only using nuln oil because my current commision, the client wants just GW products and techniques.

 

I sure hope all this helps

for the Lion

Huh guess thats a very pro advise ;) ....guess ill try the 50/50 mix first, and if i take it correct, this mix acts almost like washes?

 

Im in kind of a hurry atm, have to check on those selfmade washes!

 

Also i read in the painting section the new GW colours do smear? The guy there advised to use tamiya acryl paint thinner...which i happen to own by accident! ;)

I haven't experienced any smearing or clumpiness/drying that anyone using the new paints has been experiencing. I just use a wet palette I made myself with a Rubbermaid bottom, regular tap water, a standard sponge, and some baking parchment paper I bought at the grocery store. I mix a small drop of water off the tip of my Army Painter Wargamer: Character sized brush to each bit of paint I put on the palette (I just pull that out as a glob with the Starter sized brush that comes with the paint set), and rock and roll from there. I have some blending medium by LiquiTex, but it's glossy and I haven't been back to the store yet to get anything else, but all of my guys I've currently painted are just mixes of paint straight out of the bottle (most are just the straight single color from the bottle) plus tap water.

 

Now, I don't get Golden Demon level painting quality, and I'm sure that some additional paint assists can help you get really good results, but I'd like to think I get good results without additional paint additives anyway. I think one of the biggest improvements anyone can make really is get good quality brushes. GW's seem pretty good, they are what I used for a long time, but these Army Painter brushes just kill those, IMO, so that would be my first upgrade for anyone. Then you can go a step further and get the Windsor Newton Kolinsky Sable brushes that are even better than the Army Painter ones.

agreed, the army painter brushes rock. I actually prefer them to the WN brushes. I also use the GW drybrushes as I prefer those, and the basecoat brush for retrieving paint from the pot and mixing the paints. GW's stippling brsh is also the best i've found to date, although, admittedly I haven't really looked into an alternative. if it's not broke and all that......

 

Oh, and army painters insane detail brush is amazing for freehand text, and edge hilites, and line shading, and faces, and....... you know what just buy like three of them, you wont regret it. ;)

Cool, found some german retailers!...Having just one starter brush is suboptimal! ;)

 

@ Brian: Sorry but what exactly did you mean with a wet palette with rubbermaid bottom? Must be a translation thing...

 

Edit: OK google is your friend! :(

 

Oh, and another newbie question: Whats the sponge for?

On the search for Army painter brush retailer, i found a nice shop...By the Lion, awesome stuff!!

 

Ordered brushes, spray base primer from army painters, GS, Liquid mask and magnets...best thing, i could order FW stuff from them!! :D

 

Wasnt for sure my last order there!

 

May the modelling madness begin, untill the sword is reforged!!! ;)

 

Edit: Jeez just saw they have 2 component stuff to make press molds!!!

For my wet palette, I just use a rectangular Rubbermaid dish that can hold a sponge in it and has a lid. It's clear plastic and just holds the water. For the sponge, the smaller the individual holes are, the better, something like a blister pack's sponge works better than a regular kitchen sponge (I do use a regular kitchen sponge cut to fit, and it does still work though).

 

Glad you found a shop B-C Nemiel!

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