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My easy to paint White Scars army


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I like painting single models - not whole armies. I simply hate the idea of me having to layer and highlight 40+ models. Therefore I haven't completed any of my five thousand armies, but this time I feel better.

 

After what for me was a lot of experimenting (going through Dark Angels, Salamanders, Imperial Fists, Aurora Chapter and Dark Angels again), I found something that works for me. Here's a quick test model (I know it looks very crude, but I think the idea behind the paintwork will work to some table-topish degree. I imagine the stoic White Scar marines to look very dirty within about 35 seconds after they've been deployed on the battlefield anyway. This is also a model that was painted in dark green before, and that explains the clumped paint and rough edges... That's it for disclaimers!):

 

http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/i328/Imperialfists/Test-1.jpg

 

Here's the very easy way to paint White Scars:

 

1. Superglue the model to a large screw.

 

2. Spray with white primer (I used Army Painter Matte White).

 

3. "Attach" the screw (with the model glued on) to a power drill.

 

4. Dip the whole model in Army Painter Quick Shade Dark Tone.

 

5. Give it a few rounds with the power drill (I did it into a large jar so as to not get shade everywhere).

 

6. Immediately after dipping, clean the flat areas of the marine with an old brush. This has to be done quite quickly so you can take advantage of the fact that the brush will "suck up" the small blobs of quick shade that has collected in the recesses of the model. I also try to remove all the quick shade from detailled areas like knee and elbow joints, that will be completely covered by other colours. Afterwards, let the model dry for at least 12 hours. Be very careful to avoid touching the model. The slightest touch will leave fingerprints!

 

7. Give the model a light spray of matte varnish. Only give it enough to remove the "glossy-ness", or you'll start to ruin the details of the model.

 

8. Drybrush the whole model with Praxeti White. How much drybrushing is needed depends on how "clean" you want the model to look.

 

9. If you wan't the model to look even cleaner, you can layer and highlight with very, very thinned down white paint.

 

That's it.

 

Here's a picture of my first small batch of marines, taken just after the dipping-step:

 

http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/i328/Imperialfists/test2-1.jpg

 

Feel very free to leave harsh critique, and I'm sorry for my bad english!

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Looks like you have a very quick and effective method to paint white. Not an easy thing anyone can claim. I think the end result, if you minus the slight roughness, looks pretty good to me. Looks like you could pump out squads very quickly.
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Thanks a bunch for the sweet words! Makes me want to paint more of these white ones!

 

@Razblood: How do you get rid of the glozzy-ness without matte varnish?

 

I looked through my marine collection and found what ever I can use for my army. I read somewhere that you can use break fluid to strip paint from models, so here we go!

 

http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/i328/Imperialfists/foto-3.jpg

 

I really hope this works! I tested it on one model to see if the plastic would melt, but it looks promising after the model has been in the fluid for 12 hours. No details has gone yet...

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I use the bottled Dark Tone (dunno if the formulation is different) and never seem to get any glossiness :mellow:

 

I usually thin it in a 1 - 2 ratio with water (1 drop Dark Tone, 2 drops water) as well, which might account for it not being glossy.

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So, the models have left the Bath of Brake Fluid. Almost all the models I stripped had at least two, and some of them even four, layers of paint on them, so after two hours of scrubbing (beats moldline-removal), I am very satisfied with the result!

 

While most came out perfectly plastic grey, some still have a green look, but it doesn't look like there's a layer of paint on them. It is as if the plastic changed hue... Strange!

 

I accidentally put some Forge World bits in there as well, but luckily they survived. They were very soft when I took them out of the fluid, as if I had warmed them up, but the details hadn't changed, and after some time they hardened again.

 

I scrubbed the worst off after 12 hours, and then put them back into the bath and left them for another 12 hours.

 

http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/i328/Imperialfists/foto-4.jpg

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Thank you NightHunters! Glad you like it!

 

Next: Rhino-painting! Or suicide by flying tank.

 

http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/i328/Imperialfists/foto-8.jpg

Urm....have you attached your rhino to a drill??!!!

Think you might have just given me a new idea for speed drybrushing. The final step in fast army painting: prime, dip, attach to a drill and drybrush.

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@ Dark Brotherhood - :P couldn't resist.

 

Back on topic...

 

The White looks really crisp, making me regret going the Ceramite White route.

 

Now I need to get some P3 Praexti White goodness it seems, but then again I've painted nearly 2500* points and don't think I want to alter the scheme now ;)

 

Look forward to seeing the whirling dervish of deep striking doom that is your Rhino ;)

 

(*In 6 months I might add, go me :D)

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Really looking forward to seeing an army of these guys. White Scars are such a cool chapter but never seem to get to much love due to every-bodies reluctance to paint white. You may have found the solution.

 

Oh by the way I hope you were wearing safety Goggles whilst spinning your Rhino. It's on page 758473632 in the Codex Astartes. Guilliman's mad about his health and safety you know.

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Thanks a lot for all your comments! They're so very motivating and nice to read!

 

@The Yak: I didn't think at all about it till afterwards. And then I felt quite lucky...

 

@arizonajirt: If you're going Imperial Fists, I would suggest undercoating white, wash with Seraphim Sepia and power drill the bastard so the whole models looks bone-colored with sepia in the recesses, lightly drybrush with Praxeti White and then two or three layers of Lamenters Yellow over the whole thing. Maybe dip the model in Dark Tone quickshade after the sepia-wash - I'm not sure.

 

Today, I got almost all of the models needed for my first 750 points dipped:

 

http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/i328/Imperialfists/foto-9.jpg

 

I'm going on holiday tomorrow and the next two weeks, so unfortunately I'm forced to take a little break with my beloved White Scars.

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1. At first I thought you had a Lyran Guard mech in your simple green. Upon closer inspection the mech was revealed to actually be a terminator.

 

2. Hot damn those White Scars look freaking awesome. The rhino looks like it's whirring around at rediculous speeds so I have to ask roughly how much trigger pull are you giving them? Also, are you sticking the screws' threads into the drill's chuck for the process? I wonder if this would work for Imperial Fists... :huh:

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  • 2 weeks later...

@Zeller: Thanks :eek I give the models 3-4 quick bursts with the power drill on the highest setting (I use an old machine that only has two options, and I have no idea how fast it's spinning around. I am not sure I understand your drill bit question. I just stick the screw into the power drill. Nothing fancy. Concerning Imperial Fists, I wrote my thoughts earlier in the thread:

 

@arizonajirt: If you're going Imperial Fists, I would suggest undercoating white, wash with Seraphim Sepia and power drill the bastard so the whole models looks bone-colored with sepia in the recesses, lightly drybrush with Praxeti White and then two or three layers of Lamenters Yellow over the whole thing. Maybe dip the model in Dark Tone quickshade after the sepia-wash - I'm not sure.

 

@Paladin7221: Thank you! Although I am terribly sorry to have a negative effect on the growth of the British population...

 

Just a little update. Today I've been working on this big guy:

 

http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/i328/Imperialfists/termitest.png

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