Sunde Posted August 10, 2012 Share Posted August 10, 2012 Figured I'd post a quick few C&C pics for people to see of my completed DW termie I painted. His arms are magnetic so when the new codex comes out I can easily swap to LC or something else if TH/SS goes the way of the dodo. http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m144/CrimsonWaltz/DSC_0008.jpg http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m144/CrimsonWaltz/DSC_0009.jpg http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m144/CrimsonWaltz/DSC_0010.jpg http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m144/CrimsonWaltz/DSC_0011.jpg http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m144/CrimsonWaltz/DSC_0012.jpg Thought it would be fun to add in my GK termie, which I need to finish and my completed Wight King. http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m144/CrimsonWaltz/DSC_0014.jpg http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m144/CrimsonWaltz/DSC_0016.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Hwarang Posted August 10, 2012 Share Posted August 10, 2012 Very good man. You're painting is very neat, and you've definitely stayed in the lines consistently, which is often the hardest part. I do think, however, that it needs some shading. Some nuln oil, agrax earthshade, or the new sepia wash, would all help. If you're not opposed to dipping your models (using quickshade or minwax polyshade) that could be an easy way to get some depth to the model. Keep up the good work. -CH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunde Posted August 10, 2012 Author Share Posted August 10, 2012 Very good man. You're painting is very neat, and you've definitely stayed in the lines consistently, which is often the hardest part. I do think, however, that it needs some shading. Some nuln oil, agrax earthshade, or the new sepia wash, would all help. If you're not opposed to dipping your models (using quickshade or minwax polyshade) that could be an easy way to get some depth to the model. Keep up the good work. -CH I'm usually opposed to using washes, but that would usually be because I have a hard time deciding which to use and where. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Hwarang Posted August 10, 2012 Share Posted August 10, 2012 If you wanted to add washes, I would put sepia on the bone armor, earthshade on the gold, nuln oil on the gray/silver, and that would probably be enough. You could put the blue ash on the blue lenses, and earthshade or the red wash on the red bits if you wanted to take it a step farther. ANother option would be to start with a color darker than what you have here, and then build up to these colors, but this takes far longer than using some washes. Also, can't believe I forgot to comment on the magnetized arms. That's brilliant, given the uncerntainties of a new codex. Did you use rare earth magnets? -CH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunde Posted August 10, 2012 Author Share Posted August 10, 2012 If you wanted to add washes, I would put sepia on the bone armor, earthshade on the gold, nuln oil on the gray/silver, and that would probably be enough. You could put the blue ash on the blue lenses, and earthshade or the red wash on the red bits if you wanted to take it a step farther. ANother option would be to start with a color darker than what you have here, and then build up to these colors, but this takes far longer than using some washes. Also, can't believe I forgot to comment on the magnetized arms. That's brilliant, given the uncerntainties of a new codex. Did you use rare earth magnets? -CH Yeah, I can't recal the size (I've had them for a while now). I just put a small one where I'd normally put glue and it works like a charm - also makes painting the model SOOOOO much easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunde Posted August 10, 2012 Author Share Posted August 10, 2012 http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m144/CrimsonWaltz/DSC_0027.jpg Just added the washes, it feels much better visually to my wife and I (she usually helps me decide if I need something more being that she is an art major haha) Edit : And totally out of my usual "dry brush it to hell!" method of operating, the wightking next to my termies is washed all to hell, I'm quite proud of him (despite not enjoying fantasy as much as 40k). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elmo Posted August 10, 2012 Share Posted August 10, 2012 Nice - the wash is a big improvement ;) Glad to see that you are magnetising the arms as there are so many options with these guys. One little niggle though and it happens to all of us - you have left the mold line on the hammer and this can really stand out (especially when using washes and drybrushing). You just need to scrape it off with a knife blade. To take it a stage further try highlighting the raised areas/armour edges with bleached bone :huh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunde Posted August 10, 2012 Author Share Posted August 10, 2012 Nice - the wash is a big improvement ;) Glad to see that you are magnetising the arms as there are so many options with these guys. One little niggle though and it happens to all of us - you have left the mold line on the hammer and this can really stand out (especially when using washes and drybrushing). You just need to scrape it off with a knife blade. To take it a stage further try highlighting the raised areas/armour edges with bleached bone ;) Yeah I noticed the mold line once I started painting, means I might strip down the hammer a bit to file it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Blaire Posted August 10, 2012 Share Posted August 10, 2012 Sunde, your painting is very nice, you've done a good quality job on all your imaged guys. I'll echo Elmo and suggest an edge highlight of Bleached Bone/Ushtabi Bone first, and I'd definitely wash and highlight your metallics as well. Depending on how detailed you want to get after that, you could do other things, but it would really depend on how much you want to devote detail-wise to the model. I think it is a very nicely done above table top quality you've achieved and anyone should be happy to play you with minis that nicely done. I apologize, but I'm a big pusher of the new paint colors because I really like them and haven't had the problems others have seemed to have, so most of my suggestions will probably involve the new paint colors. I have a thread of color/composition comparisons in this forum if you want to search and take a look. Or I can post a link if you want, but it feels like shameless self-promotion if someone doesn't ask. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunde Posted August 11, 2012 Author Share Posted August 11, 2012 I washed the green and my metallic colors as advised earlier, but I could tell too much of a difference in the end so we'll see if I can add some more to it in order to show up a little more. Beyond that I plan to use some bleached bone since I dont have ushabti and I painted it in screaming skull. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Blaire Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 Ah, okay, that does explain some things, because Screaming Skull is the brightest in the line of Zandri Dust -> Ushtabi Bone -> Screaming Skull. Ushtabi Bone and Bleached Bone are almost the identical color, so my biggest suggestion would be to try out on a test model the following: Bleached Bone base, wash with Devlan Mud/Agrax Earthshade (to me, the old washes work best with the old paint colors and the new shades work best with the new paint colors), heavy highlight/re-cover all but the recesses with Bleached Bone/Ushtabi Bone, then line highlight/edge highlight with Screaming Skull. My personal preference in that area is Mournfang Brown -> Agrax Earthshade -> Mournfang Brown -> Zandri Dust -> Ushtabi Bone (Bleached Bone) -> Screaming Skull. However, if that's more paints than you have and you can only invest in one more, pick up Zandri Dust and go Zandri Dust -> Agrax Earthshade (Devlan Mud) -> Zandri Dust -> Ushtabi (Bleached) Bone -> Screaming Skull. That gives the richest color gradient IMO. As far as washing the green and metallics, sometimes it's a matter of what color you are washing them with. My preference is Nuln Oil for greens with a Waywatcher Green coat to even everything out, Nuln Oil (x2 coats) for all "silvers" as the base starting then highlight back up through Leadbelcher -> Ironbreaker -> Runefang Steel (gives the best color gradient), and Agrax Earthshade over any base gold (or brass) starting point. If you are using the old Shining Gold, try mixing it 1:1 with Scorched Brown/Rhinox Hide to get a deeper starting tone. Personally, I stay away from any of the GW dry compounds for a final highlight, I find a painted thin line is always better looking, and for metallics if you need a brighter color for the final highlight than what you have available, you can always mix a 1:1 of Runefang Steel/Mithril Silver to your final color to get something brighter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunde Posted August 11, 2012 Author Share Posted August 11, 2012 Ah, okay, that does explain some things, because Screaming Skull is the brightest in the line of Zandri Dust -> Ushtabi Bone -> Screaming Skull. Ushtabi Bone and Bleached Bone are almost the identical color, so my biggest suggestion would be to try out on a test model the following: Bleached Bone base, wash with Devlan Mud/Agrax Earthshade (to me, the old washes work best with the old paint colors and the new shades work best with the new paint colors), heavy highlight/re-cover all but the recesses with Bleached Bone/Ushtabi Bone, then line highlight/edge highlight with Screaming Skull. My personal preference in that area is Mournfang Brown -> Agrax Earthshade -> Mournfang Brown -> Zandri Dust -> Ushtabi Bone (Bleached Bone) -> Screaming Skull. However, if that's more paints than you have and you can only invest in one more, pick up Zandri Dust and go Zandri Dust -> Agrax Earthshade (Devlan Mud) -> Zandri Dust -> Ushtabi (Bleached) Bone -> Screaming Skull. That gives the richest color gradient IMO. As far as washing the green and metallics, sometimes it's a matter of what color you are washing them with. My preference is Nuln Oil for greens with a Waywatcher Green coat to even everything out, Nuln Oil (x2 coats) for all "silvers" as the base starting then highlight back up through Leadbelcher -> Ironbreaker -> Runefang Steel (gives the best color gradient), and Agrax Earthshade over any base gold (or brass) starting point. If you are using the old Shining Gold, try mixing it 1:1 with Scorched Brown/Rhinox Hide to get a deeper starting tone. Personally, I stay away from any of the GW dry compounds for a final highlight, I find a painted thin line is always better looking, and for metallics if you need a brighter color for the final highlight than what you have available, you can always mix a 1:1 of Runefang Steel/Mithril Silver to your final color to get something brighter. I dont use GW metallic paints other than boltgun. The golds and silvers were all done in vallejo metallic paints I got while I lived in the UK - they always worked better for me and come in a variety of shades ( This model in particular has normal gold and silver, but i might try rich gold or red gold on my next termie) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunde Posted September 9, 2012 Author Share Posted September 9, 2012 So I touched up my original terminator, and I finished my first DV model. As always C&C is appreciated. http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m144/CrimsonWaltz/DSC_0055.jpg http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m144/CrimsonWaltz/DSC_0054.jpg http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m144/CrimsonWaltz/DSC_0053.jpg http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m144/CrimsonWaltz/DSC_0052.jpg http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m144/CrimsonWaltz/DSC_0050.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Nemiel Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 Love the dirty white! Looks worn, ancient & manly :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunde Posted September 9, 2012 Author Share Posted September 9, 2012 Thanks, I've been putting alot of effort into making my DW termies into something I can be proud of haha. I think I've come a long way since my original pictures where I didn't even really have any highlighting. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artemid Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 You should pick out the studs in your metallic color of choice :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunde Posted September 10, 2012 Author Share Posted September 10, 2012 What colors should I use to highlight black armor, for my DV chaplain that I'm currently painting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunde Posted September 10, 2012 Author Share Posted September 10, 2012 So I started my chaplain today and decided to take a break for the night in order to keep from losing my mind. This is the point I'm at currently, need to touch up in a few spots and finish some things like the eyes - but overall I just want some comments on how it's turning out thus far. http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m144/CrimsonWaltz/DSC_0075.jpg http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m144/CrimsonWaltz/DSC_0073.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cypher 102 Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 What colors should I use to highlight black armor, for my DV chaplain that I'm currently painting. If you use a grey to highlight black you run the risk of your black looking just grey. If you use a dark blue you get depth from your black while still looking black. If the blue get to be too noticeable then just bring it back down with some black wash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunde Posted September 15, 2012 Author Share Posted September 15, 2012 http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m144/CrimsonWaltz/DSC_0079.jpg http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m144/CrimsonWaltz/DSC_0082.jpg http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m144/CrimsonWaltz/DSC_0083.jpg Chaplain done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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