New To Wolves ... Looking for some help!

[TrentL]

So I've managed to get 3 of my friends from work interested in the hobby. And to start I suggested we all build 500 point armies and paint those before buying more. (To stop the huge amounts of "Grey" armies out there)

 

Already having about 1800 points of Fully painted Blood Angels, I decided I would start a small Space Wolf force up. I already had a bunch of space wolf stuff bought, (4 space wolf boxes, 1 space wolf terminator box, crap tons of devastator weapons, scouts, 5 drop pods, 3-4 Dreads)

 

So taking that I made a small force:

My List

Hq

Wolf lord w/ frost axe

 

Troops

Grey Hunters x 8 w/ plasmagun

Grey Hunters x 8 w/ Flamer

 

Heavy

Longfang Leader

Longfang x4 w/ Plasma x1, Missile Launcher x3

 

Total 500

 

NOTE: I get a Rune Priest is probably WAY better, but being a friendly 500 point starter, I didn't want to make the "hardest" list possible, I just wanted to make a good starter army.

 

Wouldn't mind suggestions on how bad this sucks or is decent for a small intro to the game 500 points.

 

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For Symbols I chose the Two Wolf Heads over the Normal Blue shoulder pad as my Great Company symbol.

I'm not sure I understand packs very well... does each Grey Hunter unit of 10 (Pack) use different symbols from other 10man units (Packs) as long as they all conform to the Black / Red scheme of Grey Hunters?

So if I fielded 4 Grey Hunter packs, they would all have different right Shoulders in the black / red scheme?

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Also here is my "Trial" marine ... I haven't done the fur yet (Don't have the paints yet) As well I don't like the highlighting on the mouth piece (Gives him fish lips) but all in all I like him ... I also haven't finished all the paint chips I didn't have the brown I wanted so it looks like he's all marked up with lighter blue here and there but only because I haven't been able to chip him properly yet.

 

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll310/LanthierFamily/Warhammer%2040k/Space%20Wolves/c229e79e.jpg

 

Advice for that as well.

[Wulfebane]

Give the power axe to a grey hunter instead. Wolf Lords are one of two non-special characters in the entire SW codex with I5. Giving him an axe completely negates that.

 

You may be going a bit heavy on GHs right now. A general guideline is one pack for every 500pts. Food for thought, you don't have to change anything. Besides, the more models you can fit in a small point game, the better your odds of winning through attrition.

 

Also, I'm assuming its due to points, but don't forget you can have 6 Long Fangs and 5 heavy weapons.

 

As for the GH pack markings, its the Space Wolves' way of labeling "squad alpha" or "unit two" etc. It isn't a MUST have, but it is the most canon way to distinguish one pack from the next. Also, the red/black scheme, again, is just a suggestion, albeit the preferred method . You can paint them whatever color you want.

[Wolf Brother Spyrle]

On your two Grey Hunter Packs, I'm not sure what you plan to grow the list to and if you plan on including transports. If you make one 10 man squad and 1 six, you get a free special in the ten man squad. I use both Wolf Guard Leaders and Drop Pods, so I never get to take advantage of this.

 

1 bit of strategic advice. If going against other MEQs, don't be in a hurry to charge them, with counter attack you get more attacks than them on when they charge you.

 

So, get into rapid fire range, take your shots, let them shoot pistols at you, then when they charge use your wolf standard if you have one and then snap fire and counter attack with 3 attacks per guy (counter attack, plus BP and CCW) instead of his two (CCW and charging), rerolling all of your ones.

[-Volsung-]

Pretty decent paint job.

 

Don't do the fur gray. Go for brown instead, so it doesn't blend with the armor. You'll get more contrast with brown. Wash the gold too, especially the chest eagle.

 

Judging from shoulder pad and from your claim at formerly being blood angel, I'm assuming you're a pro at painting red and a noob at painting gray haha

 

But you're getting there! You should have a nice-looking pack in no time!

[TrentL]

Yeah ... well the left shoulder pad I tried to do white for my Company SHoulder pad... and well I COULDN"T get white to work.. (I'm going to use my air brush for my long fangs) So the shoulder is REALLY rough because of the coats and coats of white until I gave up and went for a base blue (I didn't want to do both red shoulders or yellow like Logan's company)

 

The future ones should look better, and I plan on doing the fur brown, I did wash the gold in sepia but maybe Mud / Black instead as the Sepia did nothing (I also haven't done a dry brush / highlight ontop of it)

 

Also I need to fill in the paint chips with some brown they look like stupid spots atm. ;)

[Wulfebane]

Yeah ... well the left shoulder pad I tried to do white for my Company SHoulder pad... and well I COULDN"T get white to work.. (I'm going to use my air brush for my long fangs) So the shoulder is REALLY rough because of the coats and coats of white until I gave up and went for a base blue (I didn't want to do both red shoulders or yellow like Logan's company)

 

Use one of the basing paints, like dheneb stone, then apply the white.

 

The future ones should look better, and I plan on doing the fur brown, I did wash the gold in sepia but maybe Mud / Black instead as the Sepia did nothing (I also haven't done a dry brush / highlight ontop of it)

 

Use a flesh wash if you have one. Though I think your gold is fine.. Your silver metals need a mud wash though.

[TrentL]

Give the power axe to a grey hunter instead. Wolf Lords are one of two non-special characters in the entire SW codex with I5. Giving him an axe completely negates that.

 

You may be going a bit heavy on GHs right now. A general guideline is one pack for every 500pts. Food for thought, you don't have to change anything. Besides, the more models you can fit in a small point game, the better your odds of winning through attrition.

 

Also, I'm assuming its due to points, but don't forget you can have 6 Long Fangs and 5 heavy weapons.

 

As for the GH pack markings, its the Space Wolves' way of labeling "squad alpha" or "unit two" etc. It isn't a MUST have, but it is the most canon way to distinguish one pack from the next. Also, the red/black scheme, again, is just a suggestion, albeit the preferred method . You can paint them whatever color you want.

 

Why only 1 GH per 500? Do you really use the other crappy troop? They cost the same and they have less WS and BS and only benefit seems to be "Rage" I really don't see the benefit to them over GH's ... Since I play Angels and very Assault heavy (Almost all RAS and VV and SG) I wanted to make a "Hold the Line" army with GH, LF, WG (Shooty) coming down from DP's with some Dreadnoughts assisting. That's my overall goal 100% Drop Pod army that drops in close moves into cover and starts the pain train of shooting, and if you charge me I don't care... type army.

 

This is what I have to build on: 5 Drop Pods, 3 Dreadnoughts (1 of which is a AoBR Dread) 4 boxes of Space Wolves, 1 Terminator Box of Space Wolves, 2 boxes of Scouts (I'm not as sold on these guys as Wolves since they can't assault the turn they come in anymore), a crap load of Heavy Weapons/Devastor packs, 2-3 Rhino's

[Russ Brother 92]

Why only 1 GH per 500? Do you really use the other crappy troop? They cost the same and they have less WS and BS and only benefit seems to be "Rage" I really don't see the benefit to them over GH's ... Since I play Angels and very Assault heavy (Almost all RAS and VV and SG) I wanted to make a "Hold the Line" army with GH, LF, WG (Shooty) coming down from DP's with some Dreadnoughts assisting. That's my overall goal 100% Drop Pod army that drops in close moves into cover and starts the pain train of shooting, and if you charge me I don't care... type army.

 

This is what I have to build on: 5 Drop Pods, 3 Dreadnoughts (1 of which is a AoBR Dread) 4 boxes of Space Wolves, 1 Terminator Box of Space Wolves, 2 boxes of Scouts (I'm not as sold on these guys as Wolves since they can't assault the turn they come in anymore), a crap load of Heavy Weapons/Devastor packs, 2-3 Rhino's

 

He's not meaning take one GH and one BC simply one unit of GH for each 500pts being played, if you're looking into Drop Pod armies, I believe both Lord Rags and Hendrik have experience of these builds.

 

Our termies are potentially the best in the game for one reason alone - Leaders of the Pack, allowing us to split them up so if you want 3 units of GHs podding in you have 8 man packs and have a TDAWG with them ^_^ plus that guy can't be singled out and ofcs can accept any challenges required :)

 

I suggest you take advantage of us being able to have 5 Heavy Weapons in each 6 man pack of LFs and the split fire ability conferred by the pack leader, also I'd go against ever taking anything on the pack leader - he's there to die before your heavy weapons and give them split fire, nothing more besides an ablative wound.

[postal105]

thing is with space wolves if your sitting still your playing the wrong in my opinion their an army that is best in close to their opponent. that is how i feel about them because gray hunters come not only with a bolter and chainsword but they also still have their pistols still so the have 3 attacks on the charge or counter charge.

 

As for taking blood claws if your playing a fun game their fun to play with and have around or heck they are great in a non fun game as a pack of 15 of them can draw a mass amount of fire that they would other wise be poring on to your other units this is because a unit of 15 blood claws if it reaches your lines can do some massive damage if you ignore them so your opponent has to start making hard decisions on what to deal with first either shoot that big mob of guys or shoot at that unit of long fangs behind them that is poring destruction down on to your lines. if you don't shoot at one and focus the other your screwed and the inverse is true its all about target priority.

[TrentL]

thing is with space wolves if your sitting still your playing the wrong in my opinion their an army that is best in close to their opponent. that is how i feel about them because gray hunters come not only with a bolter and chainsword but they also still have their pistols still so the have 3 attacks on the charge or counter charge.

 

As for taking blood claws if your playing a fun game their fun to play with and have around or heck they are great in a non fun game as a pack of 15 of them can draw a mass amount of fire that they would other wise be poring on to your other units this is because a unit of 15 blood claws if it reaches your lines can do some massive damage if you ignore them so your opponent has to start making hard decisions on what to deal with first either shoot that big mob of guys or shoot at that unit of long fangs behind them that is poring destruction down on to your lines. if you don't shoot at one and focus the other your screwed and the inverse is true its all about target priority.

 

Well I think Wolves are exceptional at Stand and Fire / Hold your ground armies at least on paper, I do hear you that they are equally as good charging as they are being charged so I shouldn't be scared to use them aggressively. When I'm ready to up my points past 500 I will probably approach the "Wolves" to share some experiences with this "Pup" about Drop Pod Lists. (There is something about Deep Striking from the Skies that I love, hence entire DoA Angels, and Drop Pod Wolves)

 

I will probably at some point create some Scouts because I love the new sniper rules, and BS 4 should be pretty awesome.

[Wulfebane]

Yes, I should have said "1 Troop choice per 500pts", but imo GHs are the only choice. I believe this suggestion is due to our FA, Heavies, and especially Elites/HQs are just as good in a SW list (depending on playstyle) so you only need to dedicate about under 2/5ths of every 500pts to Troops, so as to make sure the more costly units can fit.

 

There are exceptions to the norm, but most people believe Wolves to be a 12-24" midfield army, and it is even moreso true in 6e now that GHs can rapid fire 24" and keep firing all the way through overwatch snapfires up until they're assaulted, which is where they'll benefit from counter-attack. The rub is knowing when to not permit a unit from assaulting, thus cancelling any bonuses to charge they might get which would obliterate you.

 

This is also why drop pods are more popular than rhinos now in 6e.

[-Volsung-]

Yeah ... well the left shoulder pad I tried to do white for my Company SHoulder pad... and well I COULDN"T get white to work.. (I'm going to use my air brush for my long fangs) So the shoulder is REALLY rough because of the coats and coats of white until I gave up and went for a base blue (I didn't want to do both red shoulders or yellow like Logan's company)

 

The future ones should look better, and I plan on doing the fur brown, I did wash the gold in sepia but maybe Mud / Black instead as the Sepia did nothing (I also haven't done a dry brush / highlight ontop of it)

 

Also I need to fill in the paint chips with some brown they look like stupid spots atm. ^_^

 

Well, what's your company gonna be? Are you planning on using the ones in the codex or are these wolves gonna be part of your own company?

 

Usually, white is definitely easier to paint than yellow, in my opinion, especially when you have a darker basecoat, which is usually what I have.

 

Rule of thumb is red and yellow goes best over a white undercoat, but I have found that for yellow, you might want to undercoat in a bleached bones kinda color (sorry, I don't know a thing about the new paint lines, I have stocked up on all the old colors, I probably won't be buying the new paints for a while if ever). Oh, and glazing highlighted yellow with flesh wash also looks very nice.

 

As for white, try undercoating in a really really light shade. Directly painting white on gray is gonna be really messy, so find an intermediary.

 

Hope that helps! let me know if you have any questions on painting and I'll see if I can help!

[Wolf Brother Spyrle]

For white, I swore by Astronomicon Grey, a foundation paint that was a very light grey and had good coverage even over black. Now, I would suggest Ceremite White, a base paint, but be sure to slightly thin it down as it is very thick out of the pot. It is possible to use it directly over black in one coat, but two thinner coats are better.

 

Some tips, but certainly not a full tactica on drop pods:

 

1. Odd numbers. This maximizes the number that come in on your first turn.

2. Disperse on exiting, mistakes here combined with Vindicators or Plasma Cannons can be very costly.

3. Remember the Pods can come in empty. If using them wouldn't be a benefit, and you can hold objectives by deploying on the board, then do it. Use the empty pods to block fire and movement lanes.

4. Don't forget to shoot the storm bolters. They can even snap fire when you land.

[TrentL]

Well, what's your company gonna be? Are you planning on using the ones in the codex or are these wolves gonna be part of your own company?

Its going to be my own Company I chose the two headed wolf as my Company Symbol simply because I wanted one of the decals on the sheet to use, and it seems all Company's use these symbols with various color schemes. I started with white, but after inspection of the Codex I noticed that it was very similar to one already being used, which is why after thinking about White, Red, Yellow, I chose to go with base armor color.

 

Usually, white is definitely easier to paint than yellow, in my opinion, especially when you have a darker basecoat, which is usually what I have.

 

Rule of thumb is red and yellow goes best over a white undercoat, but I have found that for yellow, you might want to undercoat in a bleached bones kinda color (sorry, I don't know a thing about the new paint lines, I have stocked up on all the old colors, I probably won't be buying the new paints for a while if ever). Oh, and glazing highlighted yellow with flesh wash also looks very nice.

 

As for white, try undercoating in a really really light shade. Directly painting white on gray is gonna be really messy, so find an intermediary.

 

Hope that helps! let me know if you have any questions on painting and I'll see if I can help!

 

That's what I was trying to do use the new base, I probably didn't thin the paint down enough, it was coming out chalky which is why his left shoulder pad is messed up. Luckily though with an airbrush I can pretty much put any color on any color, and I'm going to paint the shoulder pads separately for Long Fangs which will be white.

 

Here is my marine finished now:

 

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll310/LanthierFamily/Warhammer%2040k/Space%20Wolves/DB2868F6-4ADD-4B62-A1D1-A70311834DE3-2774-0000035C93F5C742.jpg

 

Looks REALLY good in my hand, camera I think makes it look worse.

[Blacksad]

I'd just try a little colour on the runic markings of his bolter, other than that, where do I send my figurines to be painted? :D

[TrentL]

I'd just try a little colour on the runic markings of his bolter, other than that, where do I send my figurines to be painted? :)

 

What would you suggest like putting some Grey inside it? That's a good tip that I never thought about really, but the days are coming where I'm going to have to paint lots of runes so I may as well get used to the idea!!

 

I can't paint power weapons for the life of me so you wouldn't want me painting your army :P (I'm trying to learn how to use feathering techniques and air brushes to get nice white / bright blue blades)

[Blacksad]

it kind of depends on how you want to depict the runes being made into the weapon. some people use a light colour and create a glow around it, others fill it up with a gold / bronze like metalcolour, even others simply wash the bolter, and let the rune fill up that way.

 

for Feathering, I've been practicing at it a lot too, on my nid's carapace. the easiest way I've found is to put a wet edge highlight, then switch pencils to something brushlike and "pull the lines apart" in the direction you'd like the feathering to go, then repeat on the next part.

[-Volsung-]

Oh looking good!

 

Ey, I'd give the eyes a black rim around the red. This one is worth the meticulous effort. Face and base tends to be the first two things that catches attention, I seem to notice. Give the eye lenses a nice, thin black rim of hard lining. It's gonna make your marine seem like he's glaring through the helmet.

[TrentL]

So your suggesting tracing the inside of the lens with black, and for future reference don't paint the whole eye lens red, leave a black outline? Or are you suggesting painting around the eye lens (Almost like Mascara?? Maybe a bad reference only thing I can think of)

[-Volsung-]

Ummm...

 

Yeah, a thin black outline around the eyes would be how I would describe it.

 

I guess kinda like... ummm warpaint for your eyes (it's not mascara, I swear!!!) , but don't go onto the armor plate, just keep it at the edge of the eye lens socket, know what I mean?

 

If you go further and highlight the cheek plates on the helmet, you're marine's faces are gonna really pop out, and it looks really good. I didn't even have to paint gem effects on the eye lenses. In fact, I think it looks better in this fashion

[TrentL]

Yeah what i meant was INSIDE the eye lens or on the armor plate, but you answered that ;) I did it the other day looks not bad pretty easy to do with thinner black paint.

[-Volsung-]

Yeah it works great!

 

Now, if you want an extra ooomph on that bad boy, try to find a red brighter than the one you use, but not too bright.

 

Now paint that inside the eye, leaving that red in the center, with a thicker outline of the original red, then finally the black outline at the far edge. Now that's gonna give ya a glowing effect, if you do it right, and that should look pretty baller.

 

But otherwise, yeah, I think you got this. Post some finished pics when you have time =)

[Blacksad]

good old red gore with a blood red fillin'?

[TrentL]

good old red gore with a blood red fillin'?

 

You are speaking of things I have no idea!! I actually got rid of all my old paints for my wolves so that at least I wouldn't be frustrated and trying to match color for color etc.

 

 

Yeah it works great!

 

Now, if you want an extra ooomph on that bad boy, try to find a red brighter than the one you use, but not too bright.

 

Now paint that inside the eye, leaving that red in the center, with a thicker outline of the original red, then finally the black outline at the far edge. Now that's gonna give ya a glowing effect, if you do it right, and that should look pretty baller.

 

But otherwise, yeah, I think you got this. Post some finished pics when you have time =)

 

I will most definitely post some finished product when I have more than 1 guy done!! (I built another 14 guys (Long Fangs and the Remaining Grey Hunters) to fill out my 500 point list.

 

That being said I can't picture what your saying with the paint inside eye part etc, I'd need an example of the stages in pictures (That's basically how I learn to paint)

[narf]

a good way of getting a nice finish on marine helmet lenses is to start with a base of black, and fill in the middle with white, then the colour of your choice, after this is dry then ink the lense with the ink version of the same colour.

 

It means your filling rather than trying to trace the edges