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Strike Force Baptiste (Mortifactors)


Koyote

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Tech-Priest Calixis is ready for paint.

Now that my Tech-Priest model is serving as a counts-as Inquisitor, I replaced the Calixis' laspistol with an IG scaled bolt pistol.  I also replaced his empty laspistol holster with a small reliquary (for some priestly flair) and grenades (to represent the 4 types of grenades that he is equipped with).  Both bits are from the GK kit.

In one of my lists the Tech-Priest is equipped with two Servo-Skulls.  I don't have a second winged cherub, so I am going to use the Sage model from the old Coteaz boxed set to serve as my second Servo-Skull marker.  Both models have a good Mechanicus feel to them and this use gives me an excuse to incorporate two more fun models into my painted army.

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/WIPTechpriest_zps9df89cb8.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/WIPTechpriest2_zps68e70594.jpg
 

 

  • 3 weeks later...

Tech-Priest Secutor Calixis

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/techpriest1_zps971c760a.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/techpriest2_zpsf2121214.jpg

I am going to experiment with replacing my 'suicide' Sternguard squad wtih 5 Legion of the Damned (multi-melta, meltagun, and combi-melta or plasma). This will save me 40 points and the squad will be a bit more durable, thanks to fearless and their 3+ invul. I lose the heavy flamer, but I gain the ignore cover rule for all my weapons. This is an especially nice rule when combined with anti-tank weapons like my meltas. Take that Wave Serpents! They lose the accuracy and safety of a drop pod, but they get to re-roll their scatter.

WIP The Harbingers of Oblivion

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/WIPLotD_zpsd12c82e7.jpg

The not-so-Finecast sculpts possess some sharp detail, but they are a pain in the @#$% to prepare for painting. Tons of bubbles and defects that need to be patched. Consequently, the clean up time is several times that of a plastic or metal model. Each backpack had 10+ overflow channels connecting it to the sprue. That means each backpack had at least 10+ areas that had to be cleaned up, in addition to mold lines and other defects. The bodies were even worse. down.gif

Aside from the sergeant and the model armed with the meltagun, I didn't do much to the models except for adding some extra pouches, grenades, and a purity seal..

The model armed with the meltagun was originally armed with a bolter that was pointing to the model's right (SEE below). Because of the location of the meltagun's fuel canister, I need for the meltagun to point to the model's left. This required replacing both arms and a repositioning of the shoulder pads.

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/LotDmelta_zps62c588af.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

I got all my LotD guys in metal before the change over. However I am missing one unique sculpt and needed three more to make two full squads of 10. So I ordered the Damned Legionnaires set 1 to get that last unique guy and round out my two squads.

 

I have heard over the net that recently some models there previously failcast came in something more akin to FW resin. So I'm hoping i get this new resin.

 

Can't wait to see your guys painted up.

Tech-Priest Secutor Calixis (counts as Inquisitor), Lexmechanic (counts as servo skull), and Cyber Cherub (counts as servo skull)

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/servoskulls1_zpsf05390fe.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/servoskulls2_zps4aaae400.jpg
 

 

  • 3 weeks later...

It begins...

 

Even though GW has incorporated Knights into the "standard" game of 40K via the release of Codex: Imperial Knights, it is my intention to only play my Knight if my opponent gives me permission to do so.  I can foresee a time when this will be unnecessary, perhaps after the release of 7th Edition, but for now I believe this to be the best course of action.

I'll be interested to see what you do with the Knight as well. Has there been any progress on the Legion of the Damned?

I haven't had much time for the hobby lately, so no progress on my LotD. What little time I've had has been spent assembling my Knight.

 

The preliminary assembly of my Knight is complete. I don't know whether I want to use the model as a Paladin or as an Errant or both, so I've made some modifications to the the model's right arm assembly so I can swap out the Rapid-Fire Battle Cannon for the Thermal Cannon.

 

 

Cannon Assembly Part 1:

 

First I assembled the right arm and the rear half of the cannon assembly. The two main components of the cannon assembly are components #22 and #23. These two halves of the cannon are glued together around the arm assembly and then capped by component #9.

 

The instructions for assembling the Thermal Cannon instructs you to place component #17 between components #22 and #23. The instructions for assembling the Rapid-Fire Battle Cannon do not. The latter leaves 3 large holes in the rear of the cannon assembly. I assume that these holes are ejection ports for spent casings. Personally, I don't like the look of the holes, so whether the cannon is a Rapid-Fire Battle Cannon or the Thermal Cannon, I think that component #17 makes the cannon look better.

 

The reason why I point this out is because the the assembly instructions for the Rapid-Fire Battle Cannon are located on page 8, while the instructions for assembling the Thermal Cannon are located on page 9. So, if you are following the instructions in order, as I did originally, you may glue together component #22, #23, and #9, as instructed on page 8, and then turn to page 9 and realize that you could have filled the holes with component #17. I had to break apart the components, shave off the dried glue, and reassemble everything. No fun.

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/WIPKnight3a_zps894310d7.jpg

 

 

 

Ammo Canister Assembly:

 

Both cannons have an ammo storage component attached to the outside of the cannon assembly. I started with the Thermal Cannon's ammunition canister because the shape of the component limited the location where I could counterbore a hole for the magnet. This would in turn determine where I would place the magnet's mate on the cannon assembly.

 

I used a pin vice with a drill bit the same size as my magnet to partially counterbore a hole into the backside of Thermal Cannon's ammunition canister (component #15). Be careful to not drill too deep. This portion of component #15 isn't very thick, so if you drill too deep you will damage some of the detail on the front of the component.

 

Once the magnet was glued in place, I applied some paint to the surface of the magnet. Before the paint could dry, I fitted the ammo canister against cannon assembly. The wet paint marked the spot on the cannon assembly where I needed to counterbore another hole for the second magnet. If you look at the photo of the cannon assembly (above), you can see traces of the red paint that I used to mark the magnet's position.

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/ammocannister_zpse5fef10b.jpg

 

 

 

Ammo Hopper Assembly:

 

Preparing the ammo hopper for the Rapid-Fire Battle Cannon was a bit more tricky. I began by putting together the ammo hopper assembly. As I was test fitting the ammo hopper assembly onto the cannon assembly, I noticed that the hose that is part of component #14 of the ammo hopper assembly was designed to terminate at the same place on the cannon assembly as the hose connected to component #17. The reason for this is because component #17 is designed to be used with the Thermal Cannon assembly and the ammo hopper is designed as part of the Rapid-Firing Battle Cannon Assembly. My solution was simple. I removed the hose from component #14.

 

Next, I cut a length of plastic dowel from a plastic sprue that I found in my bits box. The diameter of this dowel was greater than the diameter of my magnet. The length of the dowel was an estimate of the distance between the inside wall of the ammo hopper and where this dowel would come into contact with the cannon assembly.

 

I counterbored a hole in one end of the dowel and glued a magnet into place. I attached this magnet and dowel assembly to the magnet on the cannon assembly. Then I tried to fit the ammo hopper assembly into place against the side of the cannon assembly. Of course the dowel sticking out of the side of the cannon assembly was too long to allow this, so little by little I decreased the length of the plastic dowel until I could just barely fit the ammo hopper assembly onto the cannon assembly. Once I was happy with the fit, put some glue on the end of the dowel that connects to the inside of the ammo hopper assembly. I then fitted the ammo hopper assembly in place against the side of the cannon assembly. After a minute the glue was dry and I was able to remove the ammo hopper assembly. Voila!

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/ammohopper2_zps5a2378a2.jpg

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/ammohopper_zps2cc51c73.jpg

 

 

 

Cannon Assembly Part 2:

 

Preparing the cannon assembly for the two different shield and barrel assemblies was relatively easy. I cut to shape a small piece of 0.040" styrene and glued it to the interior ridge found just inside the mouth of the cannon assembly. I then drilled a shallow counterbore into the center of the styrene and glued a magnet into the shallow hole.

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/InteriorRidgecopy_zpsc5257753.jpg

 

 

 

Thermal Cannon Shield and Barrel Assembly:

 

I used the same technique to prepare the Thermal Cannon shield and barrel assembly. This time, I counterbored a hole all the way through the styrene so that the face of the magnet was flush with the surface of the styrene.

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/WIPKnight6_zpsd108237d.jpg

 

 

 

Rapid-Fire Battle Cannon Shield and Barrel Assembly:

 

I repeated this technique with the Rapid-Fire Battle Cannon shield and barrel assembly. Except this time I had to add a short length of dowel to the styrene in order to get the two magnets to touch one another.

 

The Rapid-Fire Battle Cannon shield assembly includes a Heavy Stubber. The directions instruct you to glue the rear half of the Heavy Stubber (component #7) to the cannon assembly. If component #7 is glued to the cannon assembly it fits nicely with the Rapid-Fire Battle Cannon shield assembly, but it prevents one from attaching the Thermal Cannon shield assembly.

 

My solution is to glue component #7 to the inside of the Rapid-Fire Battle Cannon shield assembly instead of gluing it to the cannon assembly. This creates one small problem. There is a small L-shaped ridge on component #7 that is designed to lock component #7 into place around a raised portion of the cannon assembly. This ridge needs to be removed in order to allow one to swap out shield and barrel assemblies. The photo below shows the assembly with the ridge removed. I have placed a black circle around this area.

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/WIPKnight4a_zpsbece8efb.jpg

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/WIPKnight5a_zps6edc1fc3.jpg

 

 

 

And that's pretty much it. I can now swap out the weapons by simply attaching the correct shield and cannon assembly and the corresponding ammo hopper/canister.

Hey thanks for the tutorial man, that'll come in very handy.

 

What colours will you be painting this bad boy? :)

You are most welcome.

 

To match the Mechanicus elements that are already in my army, the Knight's primary color will be Mechanicus red. The Knight will be from one of the Adeptus Mechanicus Knight houses. My Tech Priest model can serve as a Sacristan and the other Mechanicus models his bodyguard and retainers.

Safely transporting large models is problematic, so when possible, I assemble large models as modular pieces that attach to one another with magnets or other means. The Knight is an excellent candidate for this approach.

 

Here is how I "magnetized" the base.

 

The Knight's toes are hollow, so attaching magnets is a bit tricky. I suppose I could have glued magnets into the corners of the trapezoid hollows, but I decided upon a sturdier build. I began by cutting to shape small pieces of 0.040"styrene. Next I drilled a hole in the center of each styrene trapezoid and inserted a magnet so that one side of the magnet was flush the the surface of the trapezoid insert. I applied glue to the opposite side of the magnet, so that it would run down the sides and hold the magnet securely in place.

 

When the glue was dry, I put the inserts into the hollows of the toes. Once the inserts were fitted I turned the feet upside down and applied some glue around the edges of the styrene inserts. This let gravity carry the glue into the cracks, securing the inserts.

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/knightfeet1_zps0724d93c.jpg

 

 

 

The next step was to align the magnets in the toes with magnets fitted into the base. I did this by applying a blob of paint to each magnet. Before the paint could dry, I set the leg assembly onto the base. When I removed the leg assembly, the magnets' locations were clearly marked.

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/knightfeet2_zpsccf66b25.jpg

 

 

Next, I drilled the holes into the base, inserted the magnets into the holes, and glued them into place.

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/knightfeet3_zpsd5663ebf.jpg

 

 

The socket and nub design that holds the leg assembly and torso assembly together doesn't have to be glued together. Gravity and the nub hold the torso assembly into place, although not very securely. Once painted, I don't want the torso assembly to tip over and fall off the leg assembly, but I don't want to glue the two assemblies together either. Accordingly, I've modified the design. I lengthened the nub at the top of the leg assembly with a piece of plastic dowel that I cut from an old sprue. This easy modification makes for a more reliable connection between the two assemblies.

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/knightfeet4_zps124c75ef.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

I want to paint my Knight in colors that compliment my Mortifactors and their allied Inquisition and Mechanicus contingents (red, black, and white) and I want my Knight's House to have a strong connection to the Adeptus Mechanicus.  Consequently, I've decided that my Knight is from House Taranis.  Of course my red will be closer to scab red than blood red and my white will be closer to bone than white, but overall my Knight's coloring should be recognizable as belonging to House Taranis.

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/TaranisShoulderPads_zps13b07282.jpg


I'm not big on decals and I'm not very good at painting freehand design, so my plan is to use as much sculpted or raised ornamentation as possible.  Using the Forge World's Iron Hands' brass etch and some 0.015" styrene, I think that I've done a fairly good job of replicating House Taranis' heraldry on my Knight's shoulder pads.  The horizontal strip at the bottom of the cog strip is a bit thicker than originally planned.  I may have to fix that.

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/WIPKnight10_zps368098df.jpg


I found this griffon in my bitz box.  It's from a WFB Empire building kit.  I shaved down one side to match the curve of the Knight's shield.  It still doesn't look quite right to me.  I may have to add something to it.  Inspired by the griffon heraldry, I'm thinking about naming the Knight the Howling Griffon.

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/WIPKnight8_zpsdef67303.jpg


And here's the base.  I want it to match my Mortifactors' bases, so I stuck with the cork rocks and strewn skulls.  I've spruced it up a bit with the spiky bits from the Chaos vehicle accessories sprue and some shattered Chaos iconography and armor.

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/WIPKnight9_zps4397d1b8.jpg
 

My original plan was to decorate the Knight's banner with a griffon head symbol taken from a WFB Demigryph shield. 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/WIPKnight13_zpsf729a7f8.jpg

 

After thinking it over some, I decided that the griffon emblem will be either too large or too thick or both.  So, I went to my bit box and dug around a bit.  This is what I came up with.

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/WIPKnight14_zps8fa4081d.jpg

I was able to reproduce the House Taranis heraldry in miniature, quite easily.  The X denotes its engine number within its squadron.  The horned skull is a battle honor that the Howling Griffon won in a campaign against Chaos engines. The sword denotes an engine kill in close combat.  The Aquila declares the Knight's fealty to the Imperium.  

 

The Howling Griffon, Knight Paladin of House Taranis WIP

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/WIPKnight15_zpsa195bdef.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/WIPKnight16_zpsfc0e3698.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/WIPKnight17_zpsd7863a79.jpg
 

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