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Strike Force Baptiste (Mortifactors)


Koyote

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That was a great battle report, thanks for sharing :rolleyes:

 

Also, the latest addition to your force looks good. I personally don't think that the boltguns look good on the IG (too big), but then again, if you like them, stick to them :lol:

 

Looking forward to seeing more!

 

Ludovic

I've ordered from Forge World the Chimera Track Guards and the Inquisition Chimera Door and Symbol kit. While I wait for the chimera upgrades to arrive, this is what Psyker Baptiste and Inquisitorial Retinue ‘Genswick 10th’ look like.

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/WIPGenswick_zps248be24d.jpg

 

With this Henchman Warband build, the buffs from Psyker Baptiste's Divination powers are better suited for Grey Knights than this Henchmen Warband, so Baptiste's new home is with the Grey Knight Strike squad (assuming of course I don't choose to DS-reserve the squad). With this in mind, I increased the Warband to 12 models (a full load for a Chimera) and armed an Acolyte with a plasma gun, to give it a bit more firepower.

Yesterday, I took another swing at a Mortifactors test model -this time sober. Sadly, the results weren't much better than before. This time, however, with my faculties fully intact, I was better able to scrutinize the process and figure out where I went wrong. I now believe the culprit to be the Vallejo Bone White paint.

 

A few weeks ago I bought a number of different non-GW bone white paints. I painted a strip of each color on a primered base, allowed the paint to dry, and then chose a color based strictly on the most desirable shade of bone white. The Vallejo paint was the clear winner. However, painting a strip of color is much easier than painting a mini. The this particular Vallejo color seems to have two states with nothing in between: 1) decent coverage but too thick to paint minis; and 2) thinned down enough with water to produce a smooth coat on a small surface, but terrible coverage.

 

So back to the drawing board. I haven't given GW's bone white (i.e. Ushabti Bone) a try, so I will pick up pot this week. Also, I've ordered a can of Army Painter's spray primer Skeleton Bone. If it works out, this can save me some time and reduce the number of layers of a paint on my minis and thus preserve more of the mini's detail.

 

I will let you know how it goes.

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/paintfail1.jpg

 

Time to pull the test mini out of the Green Stuff and give it a good scrub.

The Chimera track guards arrived twisted, malformed, cracked, and perforated in areas. Making the track guards presentable required a lot of patience, a hot water bath, a sharp hobby knife, some styrene card, and green stuff. The Inquisitor Chimera upgrade kit arrived in much better shape. However, there is no place on the basic Chimera large enough to affix the rectangular plates. This most likely explains why the Forge World online store doesn't include an image of the upgrade kit on an actual Chimera model. It's only because I sprang for the track guards that I had a suitably large enough surface to attach the plates. Even then, I had to reduce the dimensions of the plates.

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/WIPChimera1.jpg

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/WIPChimera2.jpg

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/WIPChimera3.jpg

 

 

Friday, I played my 4th game of 6e. I played against Orks in a Purge the Alien mission. My opponent's list and tactics weren't so great, but he was a nice fellow and a pleasure to play against. He called the game at the top of Turn 4. I was ahead 8 VP to 1 VP.

 

My Pskers in the Henchmen squad rocked. So did my Thunderfire Cannon, which I remembered to place in 'fortified' ruins behind my ADL.

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/orkcomic2.jpg

I need to experiment a bit more with lighting and the settings on my camera. The white and bone shades in these photos is not quite right. Too much light reflects off these colors, making them appear brighter than they actually are and washing out some of the detail.

 

Nevertheless, after four attempts, I have finally completed a test model for my Mortifactors color scheme. What do you think?

 

Bone and black alone produce a pretty boring color scheme, so I used Red Gore to add splashes of color here and there. All of the images of Mortifactors I found online have the bolters painted black and metal. IMHO, this was a mistake. The addition of a primary color to the black and bone scheme adds so much to the model. I am considering taking it one step further and replacing the bone squares on the checkered knee pad with Red Gore -still not sure. This may be a bit too much. Sometimes less is more.

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/WIPMTM4a.jpg

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/WIPMTM4b.jpg

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New2/WIPMTM4c.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Great log, I'm really enjoying the battle-reps, they're great reading for those of us who still haven't taken the plunge into the new edition...

 

Question; what are those awesome decorations on your rhinos and where can you get them? They're extremely fitting for the mortifactors theme.

Question; what are those awesome decorations on your rhinos and where can you get them? They're extremely fitting for the mortifactors theme.

 

The shoulder pads, shields, and vehicle decorated plates all come from Scibor Miniatures. The shoulder pads are too big to look good on marines in power armor, but if shaved down, they look pretty good on terminators.

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New/shoulderpads.jpg

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New/stormshields.jpg

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New/plates1.jpg

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New/plates2.jpg

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New/plates3.jpg

 

 

Here's another one of the plates on a las/plas Razor I assembled.

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New/RZ2.jpg

 

 

I used the Scibor Angel SF Knight to convert a Captain Artemis in terminator armor (i.e. counts-as Lysander).

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New/belial.jpg

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New/MT1a.jpg

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New/MT1b.jpg

very nice test scheme care to tell us how you achieved that nice bone colour?

The recipe is very simple. I begin with Army Painter's Primer Skeleton Bone. Once dry, I apply Reaper's Brown Ink (09209) to the recesses of the bone sections of battle plate. I then add a couple of thin coats of GW's Ushabti Bone the surface areas of the battle plate to serve as a base color and to clean up the areas where the ink spilled over. I then added two layers of highlight to the edges of the bone battle plate. The first layer of highlight is GW's Screaming Skull and the second, narrower, layer is a 50/50 mix of Screaming Skull and GW's Ceramite White. The black areas are GW's Abbadon Black, highlighted with GW's Eshin Grey.

 

The weapons are painted separately and primered black. They are painted with a base coat of GW's Scab Red. I then go over the red areas with Brown Ink. Finally I highlight with Scab Red.

 

 

 

I have completed my first five marines to table-top standards. I want to return to these models later and add some battle damage and additional highlights.

 

In honor of their heroic acts in my game against the Sisters of Battle, my first five painted marines are the combat squad that held the Fuel Supply objective...

 

Combat Squad Roman

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/CSRoman_zps8428502b.jpg

...those 5 look awesome together, i really like the scab red as the spot colour on them

Thanks.

 

I have two more Tactical Marines 50% finished. After Tactical Squad Roman is finished, I plan to paint Captain Artemis (counts-as Pedro Kantor). I'm going to take a shot at free hand painting his company heraldry on his back banner. After that, I want to knock out another Tactical squad so I have my compulsory units painted.

These guys are looking great - I especially love the lascannon conversion. It worked out really well.

Couldn't agree more. The lascannon conversion is really cool and you've nailed the colour scheme ;)

 

Ludovic

Thanks guys.

 

If you haven't had a chance to look through my Blood Angels thread (link in my signature), here's my Blood Angels version of the model.

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/balc1.jpg

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/balc2.jpg

Wow! I have been following this thread for a while, and I have to say that the tac squads all painted up in your scheme are striking together! Great job and the testing a trial and error was well worth it...

 

Question, with regards to your Lysander / Ascibor Conversion, Was it hard to saw off his back and replace it with a plastic Termie one?

 

I like the continuity with the rest of the GW range once thta simple swap is done, and would consider dong that myself if it did not prove too difficult with a basic modeling saw, etc...

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Oh, and any chnace we will see a Chaplain Astador conversion in the future? Could count as a Cassius, etc.

Question, with regards to your Lysander / Ascibor Conversion, Was it hard to saw off his back and replace it with a plastic Termie one?

 

...

 

Oh, and any chnace we will see a Chaplain Astador conversion in the future? Could count as a Cassius, etc.

It's actually a fairly simple conversion. Rather than using a hobby saw to remove the Scibor backpack portion of the model, I used a pair of snips (wire cutter/side cutters/plastic cutters). The model is cast from resin, so getting in there with the snips and removing the backpack wasn't too hard. Don't try and remove it with one snip. Instead, snip and tear out small chunks, a piece at a time, until most of it is gone. Then use a hobby knife to trim it down further and shape the desired contour. You don't have to leave a smooth surface because most of it is going to be covered up by the GW plastic bit and the rest of it will be covered in greenstuff 'fur'.

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i200/10011970/New/MT1b.jpg

 

I did use a hobby saw to cut the back(pack) off of the plastic GW terminator. Here's a tip, visualize on the model where you want to make your cut, the angle, and the depth, but then don't cut there. Instead, cut off a larger portion of the back(pack) than you think you will need -even if this means cutting through the shoulders and back of the model. I suggest this because invariably, your cut will be off. Holding the mini down and cutting into an irregular surface will likely produce a crooked or lopsided cut. By leaving on a bit extra, any mistake in angle, proportions, or contour can be corrected with a hobby knife.

 

You may also noticed that I removed the model's original feet and replaced them with GW plastic termi feet. I did this because the Scibor feet are really small, especially when compared with GW terminators.

 

 

A Chaplain Astador conversion is a brilliant idea!

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