Stripping paint from pewter/metal models

[Chaplain Hiltraud]

So, I was cleaning out my storage shed and found my old Sisters Of Battle army...

 

I want to repaint them(someday...)but I must first strip them. Most were only ever undercoated, poorly.

 

I went down to the hardware store and got some generic paint stripper.

 

Tested it on one model and while it was quick and effective it seems to have either discoloured the metal or left some sort of residue...could it have damaged the pewter/metal?

 

The model looks almost gritty in some spots but it is smooth to the touch, i don't have a non painted pewter/metal model so I am unsure if that's how it's meant to be? It's certainly shiny for the majority though!!

 

Anyone have any experience with this?

 

Thanks in advance,

Chaplain Hiltraud

[Jacinda]

Black primer will stain the metal. It's no big deal.

I'm not keen on using paint stripper mostly beacause you never know what all is in it. There will be toluline, byutalyne and other `olines of various levels of toxicity. These are made for softening up enameled paints and are actually overkill for what we need. While they will melt plastics as easy as they melt paint, that is not much of a concern for all metal figures. What affects metal most are caustics like acids (citric acid is common enough to help not only for it's acidic uses but also to help counter the strong oder the various chemicals will have) and lye. Read the precautions on the label and if you see anywhere that is says "caustic," stop using it because it is etching the metal.

 

Typically, we use degreasers like Simple Green, Purple Power or Faeiry Something-or-other (sorry, I forget its name). Simple Green is the most effectibve but also the most expensive of these. Purple Power or some other version of it is typically found in the automotive section of the hardware store sold as concentrated degreaser. It cost 7 ob 8 bucks for 2.5 gallons. Soak old, fully painted models in it for 48 hours, then scrub away the paint with a n old tooth brush. If the models just have a primer base coat, it should disolve away in 4 to 6 hours. Scrub it clean and rinse well.

[ShinyRhino]

Did the metal darken?

Can you describe how a model can "look" gritty but be smooth to the touch? That's a little confusing.

 

So long as there is no actual defomity to the surface of the metal, and no remaining paint residue, just use an old toothbrush to scrub the now-stripped models under some warm, soapy water. Let them dry overnight, and you should be perfectly safe to reprime and repaint these. I've done so with scores of old, metal models.

[Kastor Krieg]

Brake fluid called DOT-3 (and only that one!) does wonders. Leave minis overnight in it, scrape off with an old toothbrush under warm water.

[Pratch]

I've used various products over the years and generic solvent based strippers such as Nitromors, as well as some oven cleaners, can discolour the metal especially if black primer was used. Incidentally I learnt this whilst removing a horredous undercoat from a multi-melta sister!

[PipX]

Castrol Superclean or Purple Power (Both found at Wal-Mart) do wonders for both Plastic and Metal. Within a few days most everything will come off, and it will not damage plastic. Can be filtered back into the original bottle to be reused in the future.

[Chaplain Hiltraud]

Thanks everyone for the help.

 

After all your advice, and some reassuring help from the hardware store, I stuck with the Generic Paint Stripper. My initial worries about the discolouration had been put to rest; as Jacinda pointed out, I think it was just the black primer had stained some parts of the mini.

 

Next time I will definately use degreaser. It is much safer plus, my neighbours won't look at me strange cause I won't be walking around like I have just joined a chaos cult :D

 

Yours in Honour and Faith,

Chaplain Hiltraud

[Ixmas Thronius]

Hey all,

 

I know I'm late to the party but Oven cleaner works very very well on metal models. I use a brand called Easy Off and it comes in a spray can. After spraying both sides you can start stripping as soon as a half hour later but I still recommend waiting 2 hours at least. It seems to eat the paint but does not harm metal as far as I have experienced so far.

 

Hope this helps!

 

Dunc

[Coopervisor]

I used some acetone free nail varnish remover last time. Cleaned all paint off a metal figure in no time at all. It however isn't any good on plastic or resin (FW) as it ruins both if left in it.

[Revenant of Grimm]

The stained look when using paint strippers or turpentine is normal. I normally go over the model with a very fine steel wool this gets rid of any extra paint and brings back the shine. Just make sure to rewash the parts again with dish soap to remove the steel dust.

 

If you are using the model for tests or practice though I will warn you that the steel wool will remove fine details after several polishes.

[araekyus]

If you can find it in your area, i use this:

 

DawnPowerDissolver

 

shake it well and empty some in a plastic cup with a lid. Toss the mini in and wait. Takes about ten minute to start working, the longer the better. Great for plastic and metal, wont discolor at all. I've stripped all kinda of finishes with great success, even complete clean in some cases. Have an old toothbrush handy too. Cleans up with water and smells just fine. I leave two Bell freezer jars full of it at my kitchen sink. Can be used over and over again.

 

Note on resin of any type: if you must strip resin using this, only leave it in for a few minutes at a time. scrub off, rinse and let dry before you put it back. I used a piece of resin scrap ( those FW 'jersey barrier' sprues) and left it in for an hour. I was left with a rubbery mess. So be careful with your expensive FW stuff. Finecast I have not yet test, so I am not sure about it.