"Kataklysm's Evolving Guide of Model Preparation"

[kataklysm]

Kataklysm's Evolving Guide of Model Preparation

 

Prologue:

 

Welcome to my "evolving" guide of model preparation. Why is it "evolving" you ask? Well this is kind of a large undertaking to place all my accumulated knowledge in one place and may take a while. So please bear with me while I slowly add parts as I remember them. The whole purpose of this article is simply to help along any and all modellers that may want to try my techniques or simply need an answer for a specific problem that they have. Alot of this content is elementary for most modellers. I am just attempting to add every bit of information that I can for those that may not know.

 

 

 

Opening Your Model

 

 

- Congrats on purchasing your shiny new model(s). Ready to tear open that blister pack or box and get to assembly? Well wait a few moments and take stock of what you have. Blister packs in themselves contain some pretty valuable stuff. The clear exterior plastic can be used for multiple things. From a cheap painting palette to replacement windows for aircraft and tank view ports. The fiscally conservative modeller will save these for such uses and more.

 

- The foam that is in blister packs to protect the model is also a great resource. Save these for texturing models when you go to paint them. Its cheaper than buying sponge brushes from an art supply store and most have the perfect texture for applying battle damage during the painting process.

 

- Many models come in simple cardboard boxes and may not seem valuable. Well truth is that aside from finished examples of the models that are usually printed on the outside, they are great work mats when unfolded.

 

 

 

Cleaning Your Model

 

 

- This portin of the guide may not apply to all modellers but for want-to-be- professionals like me, is a critical step. Models kits, be it plastic, resisin, metal, or what have you are dirty. They are covered in a menagerie of things from release agents (oils and powders) to dust and dirt from being stored in large bins after production, before boxing. Wargamers are starting to learn the lession that Old school modellers have long ago.

 

Resin

 

 

- Companies like forge world, micro arts studios, chapter house and now games workshop (finecast) ect. deal almost exclusively with resin. Resin needs a release agent to be coated on the inside of the mould before production to ensure proper removal of said model. This substance adheres to the surface of the finished product and being a release agent does its job very well especially when applying superglue, primers, and paint. The solution is to WASH YOUR BITS! (theres a joke in there somewhere hehe). For resin cleaning takes a bit of extra care since the material is so malleable when mixed with a heat source. The way I accomplish this is simply by filling a suitable tub with warm (less than 100F) water and a few drops of dawn soap. Mix the soap into the water, and submerge the model bits for about 5 minutes. With an old toothbrush gently scrub every part if the bit, until you can no longer feel the residue of the release agent. After you have finished scrubbing is the oportune time to check for warped or misaligned pieces. Since resin is malleable when warm you can now straighten the bit and run it under some cold water to "set" it back to normal. Sometimes this requires a bit of trial and error, so repeat as needed. Now that all your bits are clean and straight, rinse them all with cool clean water and put them on a towel to air dry. (do not use a hair dryer, remember that resin is heat reacticve)

 

Plastics

 

 

- Plastic models are the most commonly encountered when dealing with gamesworkshop so lets talk about these. During the plastic injection process, molten hot plastic is pushed into an alluminum mould at high pressures. This ensures that every corner of the mould is filled with the material, creating high grade multi-part bits that are all connected together on a sprue. Sprues are then instantly cooled while in the mould and ejected into collection bins for packaging. Some plastic injection machines also use a milder form of release agent (sometimes oil, sometimes powder) on the surface fo the mould. Cleaning these sprues when you unpackage them is a step that most people disregard. Personally I have and always will clean them in the same process as my resin models. The only difference is that I will leave the bits on the sprue for ease of handelling whilst doing so.

 

 

White Metal

 

 

- Pewter models or "white metal" models are created in a similar process as resin, in that molten metal (not resin) is poured into a two part mould and left to set (while resin is often spun or vibrated). While white metal models often do not have any form of release agen on them, it is not unheard of to find residual powders in small pockets and crevasses. For these models I tend not to wash them, but instead give them a firm brushing with a dry toothbrush. Simple as that.

 

 

 

 

 

Organizing the Contents of Your Model

 

 

 

- Keeping your bits in order is a task in itself. Wargaming models tend to have fewer bits than say a 1:35 scale tank or aircraft which may number in the hundreds to thousands depending on the kit. This being said I cant tell you how many times in the past I have lost a precious shoulder guard for a tactical marine and had to stall the build process for that unit until I either found it or purchased another (Im a little OCD about things..).

 

- To eliminate this problem I have gone about purchasing several hardware storage bins. They are pretty cheap and indispensable once you start using them. They range in size depending on what you want to spend and can hold everything you can think of. The clear plastic lids make it easy to find what you are looking for.

 

Side note:

 

I was recently browsing the general discussion forum and saw an interesting topic about using excel or something like it to log and categorize any and all bits currently in posession. Now I dont know if this is for the average modeller, but it is something worth thinking about if you are inundated with stuff. I have been mulling it over and havent come up with an elegant solution as of yet, but will continue to try and figure it out.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(still going, need sleep) Also forgot to add that if you have any questions about anything model prep related feel free to ask.