sioka Posted November 5, 2012 Author Share Posted November 5, 2012 :) The sun never sets on the domain of the B&C but for some reason it seems to suit me better to be sneaking round on here once it is dark outside and I have myself a nice little whisky drink on the go! I must apologise for making you folks wait so long for new updates but some parts of this project require time and patience, also you are several steps behind the current timescale of the work being done. @ WingsOfTheFalcon Hello mate, hows tricks? Word has it you have moved to Australia, I hope life is good in the sun and that you are getting plenty of time for hobby related fun. @ BrotherTearz, Pulse, Thanks guys, plenty more to come. @ Super-Piglett Thanks mate I have a drop pod, rhino and a 10 man assault squad to add to my Brothers of Isis (Tango marines) so some encouragement in the painting department is great ;) . And now for something completely different....... The claws in the images above are a base to sculpt around and on to, used partly for strength and partly to keep the bladed areas thin. Sorry that there is not more to show yet but there is lots more to come, ninja out :ph34r: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iswt Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 wow, that's some amazing sculpting going on here! fantastic! i have some questions, if you don't mind: 1. what's that yellow putty you use? milli put maybe? 2. did you sculpt the breastplates with pure green stuff or is this a mixture of GS and the other yellow stuff? 3. how did you sculpt the outline of the breastplate pieces? when I sculpt something like that I apply the putty and then cut the excess away, if you know what I mean. but sometimes that leaves cuts/scratches from the blade in the parts i sculpt on, which i'd like to prevent. do you have any tipps on that matter? maybe there's another tool to use? subsribed :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sioka Posted November 7, 2012 Author Share Posted November 7, 2012 <_< Evening all, lots of photos to come tonight but before starting my upload some answers to iswt and others questions about putty. 1 I use several puttys depending on the task in hand, fimo when bulking basic armature bits (bakeability speeds life up lots) but not tried it for much else, milliput for sharp edge bits and bulking out it sands nice and can be drilled to some extent (care is needed with small bits) also way cheaper than green stuff and tends to behave better at low temperature, green stuff (GS) for any biological shapes such as heads hands some fabric (tho starting to notice the limitations here) rivit heads because of the sticky nature of fresh GS, millistuff (MS) a mixture of both green stuff and milliput is the putty I use most as it tends to be consistant to work with creates nice sharp detail can be transitioned nicely in to itself when soft and can be sanded to a good finish with 1000 grit paper. Any colour variencies are dependant of the mix used so yellow/greyish for straight milliput, dark green is pure GS and any variation between the two is MS with more or less of one or the other putty added. 2 Nice easy one, MS a touch heavier on the milliput for the sharp edges. 3 O.K tricky one this, firstly mirror work where you have two parts the same are always a right pain in the glute. First I try to get as close to the right amount of putty needed as possible add it to the sculpt and work the transition area first (the place where the putty has to join in the smoothest way possible so with the pecs it is the top where it meets the torso not the bottom where it stops abruptly). when the transition is smooth I create the general shape needed removing any excess by taking a sharp scalpel (looking at it will make your eyes bleed sharpness) and cutting in to but not all the way through the putty, I then pull away what is not needed before getting the remaining putty to the shape desired (all of this is easier using MS). All of the sharp edges on my work are made with sculpting tools and not by cutting, I tend to shape while soft then come back when the putty is starting to cure to rework the sharp edges, the timing for this will only come from experience. Back soon with those pics...... ^_^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sioka Posted November 7, 2012 Author Share Posted November 7, 2012 <_< Righto so after my BT internet shambles maybe time for some pictures, some bits done and some bits just starting blocking out work. time for some Blade Runner, laters folks ^_^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lorenzen Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 im suprised you dont use "ms" for cloth, ive found it much easier to work with for tabbards etc, on a separate note stop making the rest of us look bad! ;) keep up the good work & fix your interwebs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sioka Posted November 7, 2012 Author Share Posted November 7, 2012 @ Lorenzen ha ha thanks mate, interwebzz fixed! There are a couple of things that you can do with just milli for cloth that dont work with MS mostly the texture stuff and part bake. But as with all of this so far it seems that to have a few choices in terms of material can help lots, also a non setting silicone clay can come in useful for shaping free hanging stuff on to and then be removed getting things nice and thin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lorenzen Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 true, for cloaks and the such ive been playing about with using things like that & negatives.. i tend to use straight miliput for them. its people like you (and the all mighty simon egan) that inspire me to push my abilities though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexCrute Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 You don't mess around do you? This has got the be a record for speed/quality sculpting. And for ballsy photography. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scriptor Tharxes Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 Amazing. Its all so sharp and clean.. and tiny. Great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the Belgian one Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 Wow ... just ... WOW ! I can't wait to see the finished model ! What are you planning for the head and shoulder pads ? keep up the good work ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sioka Posted November 8, 2012 Author Share Posted November 8, 2012 @ the Belgian one Thanks mate, well from here on in most of the work will be complete resculpts of parts so things will get much more difficult. For the shoulder pads one is to remain normal (maybe some slight detail work) and the other will become a lions head taken as a trophy, the lions head will basicly be the shoulder pad with a mane flowing from it and covering any of the plastic pad used as a base. The head will be a lion head in a similar style to the wolf head in the plastic space wolf marines sprue, this will again have a mane but sculpted in an elongated plate style (think of a cross between egyptian style lion sculpture+fish scale armour+predator dreadlocks). I will probably base the head around a Mk6 beekie heavily cut down and completely hidden in putty, this will set the scale and location of features so that it will fit seamless in to the rest of the clients army. :whistling: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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