Warmammer Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 hi what would you guys recommend for sizing earth magnets i'm going to uses them for sm and csm Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/264686-magnets/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
dswanick Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 hi what would you guys recommend for sizing earth magnets i'm going to uses them for sm and csm The most common size I use is the 1/8" X 1/16" (http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D21) which is good for magnetizing arms, backpacks, and most equipment to bodies, as well as light vehicle wargear attachments. I also use the 1/4" X 1/16" (http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D41) for heavier vehicle attachments. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/264686-magnets/#findComment-3225119 Share on other sites More sharing options...
lhg033 Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 i (think, been a while) i use 3mm for most things, mainly teminator arms - i use one in each side rather than a bit of metal and a magent and it gives a pretty stable join that doesnt rotate due the weith of the army even when using metal bits. i have some 1mm magents too. not used them as much as they arent as strong. they do work well when a few are used to magentise razorback/rhino top hatches Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/264686-magnets/#findComment-3225183 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaeron Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 I did a brief tutorial elsewhere, which I'll post here: I've had fun looking into how to actually magnetize things and make them look all snazzy -particularly as I rebuild twelve thousand points plus of Death Guard, it seems only sensible to have some excellent ways to swap out weapons on some new builds. Therefore, I thought it would be worth collating some important data for everyone that may be of use. This site breaks down it all clearly for you, including the technical specifications of the magnets in question. You'll be most interested in sizes, quoted below: Sizes? The magnets come in many different shapes and sizes. So what size should you use for modeling the many styles of 40k or Forge World models? The list below will help you determine which size to use and additional information on conversion between inches and millimeters. Magnet Size Uses 1/16" x 1/32" Disc Infantry size Arms (e.g. Space Marine troops, Tyranid Termagaunts) 1/8" x 1/16" Disc Infantry size miniatures (e.g. Space Marine troops, Tyranid Termagaunts) 3/16" x 1/16" Disc Monsterous creatures limbs (e.g. Tyranid Carnifex) 1/4" x 1/16" Disc Customizing Vehicles, Gargantuan Creatures (e.g. Space Marine Rhino, Tyranid Bio-titan) 3/8" x 1/16" Disc Customizing Vehicles, Gargantuan Creatures (some Forge World models) 1" x 1/8" Disc Huge Titans, and just for fun If you know the inches: • 1/16 inch = almost 2mm • 1/8 inch = just barely over 3mm • 1/4 inch = just barely over 6mm • 3/8 inch = almost 10mm • 1/2 inch = almost 13mm • 5/8 inch = 16mm • 3/4 inch = 19mm • 7/8 inch = just barely over 22mm • 1 inch = 25.4mm If you know the millimeters: • 1mm = just over 1/32 inch • 2mm = just over 1/16 inch • 3mm = almost 1/8 inch • 4mm = 5/32 inch (= a bit over 1/8 inch) • 5mm = just over 3/16 inch • 6mm = almost 1/4 inch • 7mm = almost 9/32 inch (= a bit over 1/4 inch) • 8mm = 5/16 inch • 9mm = almost 3/8 inch • 10mm = just over 3/8 inch • 11mm = almost 7/16 inch • 12mm = almost 15/32 inch (= almost 1/2 inch) • 13mm = just over 1/2 inch • 14mm = almost 9/16 inch • 15mm = almost 19/32 inch • 16mm = 5/8 inch • 17mm = almost 11/16 inch • 18mm = just over 11/16 inch • 19mm = 3/4 inch • 20mm = 25/32 inch • 21mm = just over 13/16 inch • 22mm = almost 7/8 inch • 23mm = 29/32 inch • 24mm = just over 15/16 inch • 25mm = almost 1 inch I've gone for some 3mm by 1.5mm ones to start with - and they're relatively cheap - but I will post a tutorial on how to actually use them! In the interim, you may want to consider any of these sites, which will explain it infinitely better than I ever will be able to: http://fromthewarp.blogspot.co.uk/2010/03/...-part-1-of.html I GONE DUN IT. I didn't honestly believe I would want to do this - given that when I saw the part, it's not really that simple. You actively have to cut out the weapons as they're moulded into a maw, which fits inside the Dragon head of the Heldrake, like so: http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c254/TheNewAgeOutlaw/GW/IMG_1023.jpg However, I'd bought magnets for a reason, and I'd be damned if I wasn't going to use them to get good value for money! I wasn't going to be put off - so started in earnest. The first main part was to remove the guns themselves from their respective holders - this was hard, and led to a tiny bit of damage to both of them (since repaired). Hard, because of the way they are moulded in, the angles etc. - but with clippers and a hobby knife, they were parted. Once I'd cleaned up each piece, I got a pair of magnets and glued one onto a gun: http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c254/TheNewAgeOutlaw/GW/IMG_1024.jpg Ensuring that I knew which way round the partner went! And, making sure both the ones on the guns, matched the one I was putting into the mouth: http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c254/TheNewAgeOutlaw/GW/IMG_1025.jpg Once I'd tidied this up with green stuff, I was left with this: http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c254/TheNewAgeOutlaw/GW/IMG_1027.jpg Which allowed me to do the following: http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c254/TheNewAgeOutlaw/GW/IMG_1028.jpg http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c254/TheNewAgeOutlaw/GW/IMG_1029.jpg And then: http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c254/TheNewAgeOutlaw/GW/IMG_1040.jpg http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c254/TheNewAgeOutlaw/GW/IMG_1036.jpg Success! Hope that helps! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/264686-magnets/#findComment-3225204 Share on other sites More sharing options...
S.k.i.t.t.l.e Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 I've just used 2mm x 1mm for the heads on my DA Company Master. Works well enough, and you can pick him up by his head even. :yes: I've got 3mm x 1mm that I may use for TDA arm swaps. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/264686-magnets/#findComment-3225222 Share on other sites More sharing options...
lhg033 Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 consider what you will be using to drill/make the holes as well. i use my drill/electric screw driver on very low rpms (barely squeezing the trigger). to fast will go right through a model and melt plastic and dig into the carpet underneath..... green stuff is useful to mount the magnet in the hole. this also alows you some time/ability to position the magent vs straight off supergluing it in place. you can even bury the magnet a bit under the GS f you want to hide it. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/264686-magnets/#findComment-3225225 Share on other sites More sharing options...
dswanick Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 consider what you will be using to drill/make the holes as well. i use my drill/electric screw driver on very low rpms (barely squeezing the trigger). to fast will go right through a model and melt plastic and dig into the carpet underneath..... green stuff is useful to mount the magnet in the hole. this also alows you some time/ability to position the magent vs straight off supergluing it in place. you can even bury the magnet a bit under the GS f you want to hide it. My only suggestion would be to avoid using power tools for drilling magnet holes. Pin vice only. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/264686-magnets/#findComment-3225226 Share on other sites More sharing options...
S.k.i.t.t.l.e Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 consider what you will be using to drill/make the holes as well. i use my drill/electric screw driver on very low rpms (barely squeezing the trigger). to fast will go right through a model and melt plastic and dig into the carpet underneath..... green stuff is useful to mount the magnet in the hole. this also alows you some time/ability to position the magent vs straight off supergluing it in place. you can even bury the magnet a bit under the GS f you want to hide it. My only suggestion would be to avoid using power tools for drilling magnet holes. Pin vice only. Agreed. I was taking about .2mm at a time out of the necks of the heads then testing the height of the magnet sticking out to get it right for when it was on the body. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/264686-magnets/#findComment-3225235 Share on other sites More sharing options...
lhg033 Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 My only suggestion would be to avoid using power tools for drilling magnet holes. Pin vice only. :lol: i would have myself but the bit i was using wouldn't fit in the pin vice and i was feeling lazy. lost a termintor sergeant powersword arm, learned the lesson and have since been a lot more careful. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/264686-magnets/#findComment-3225248 Share on other sites More sharing options...
elmo Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Self plug for magnetising SM vehicles: HERE Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/264686-magnets/#findComment-3225395 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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