Blackadder's FW Chaos Warhound Build

[Ch@oZ]

I can answer that one for you, basically it shows whether the metal is ferrous or non ferrous and only ferrous metal contacts Iron and in turn are magnetic.

 

Non Ferrous metals are more resistive to corrosion and wear

 

The Joys of being an Engineer

 

Thank You, that was cool. I got curious, because he said "steel" and steel is by definition an alloy containing mostly iron and hence a ferromagnetic. So then i sort of started wondering if non-magnetic steel is an option at all, derailing the discussion, which i apologize for. So i guess my OCD got the better of me and i didn't realize the words steel and alloy were used interchangeably.

 

Anyway, it's good to know that a lot of engineers read this forum (including me).

[Blackadder]

 

 

Blackadder's Chaos Warhounds:

 

I have become incredibly ambitious. After cleaning, priming and basic painting the Hierophant and waiting for the paint to dry I looked around for something else to work on. My son is coming home from college for ten days this month so I thought I'd surprise him by cleaning the flash, vents and manufacturing errors on our two Chaos Titans. We are at odds as to what theme to paint them I lean more to a mottled green and he to a red. I don't suppose that they have to match colour-wise. I would appreciate input in this regard.

 

This is the colouration I have chosen for my Chaos Titan with a few amendments.

 

http://i.imgur.com/DdKhvcX.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/DdKhvcXl.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/LkMwqBI.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/LkMwqBIl.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/If9uCUT.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/If9uCUTl.jpg

 

Anyway it took me about two hours each to trim of the non-titan material and they are ready to paint. No pictures as yet as we have all seen kit form Chaos Titans and I have the parts separated in zip lock sandwich bags. I am very enthused about tackling a Chaos interior since the Tyranid army has many similar aspects.

 

 

Here's a little quiz to see of you can qualify as an aircraft inspector.

Take a close look at the nicely painted titan above and see why it always looked strange to me I just couldn't put my finger on it; the problem being you expect things to be as they are supposed to be.

Closer inspection revealed six major mistakes in the build................

See if you can find them (Note left and right hand anomalies count as one; multiple anomalies of the same parts count as one.)

Note, the sixth one is toughest to find

 

[Forté]

Not a clue but it does look good.

[Blackadder]

We'll let the contest ride for a while 

 

No Chaos Turbo Laser

 

There is no Turbo laser for the FW Chaos Warhound so I have to make one. Not as easy as it may seem; there's a fine line between too little and too much distressing I hope I haven't exceeded it. Of course once its all a homogeneous colour it won't look as bad and I need so Chaos style icons to dress it up and of course the webbing between the components.

 

I'm starting the subsurface ligaments at the moment......

http://i.imgur.com/AyqXGWR.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/AyqXGWRl.jpg

 

It's kind of fun ruining 60 buck worth of resin....

 

Not!

[Blackadder]

And So It Begins:

 

After a diligent search I have finally come up with a theme for my Chaos Warhound. Not surprisingly courtesy of my mentor in absentia,

 

Buypainted's Jaro.

 

 

I'v been searching for the right green and metal motif and while it isn't a Warhound it is Chaos a vehicle scheme that should be easily adapted to the Warhound.

 

So first a coat of Flat Black Prime:  

 

http://i.imgur.com/HAO7XGL.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/HAO7XGLl.jpg

 

I use aerosol acetone/ toluene based primer instead of the acrylic water soluble primer for 1, it's compatible with both resin and acrylics and 2, it's a lot cheaper. 

 

Note I did not try to cover completely with one coat; a couple of thin coats are better than one heavy coat which takes longer to dry and the thick paint obscures the fine detail.

[Lucien Eilam]

Closer inspection revealed six major mistakes in the build.

 

It looks like the engine vents on the back are both left-leaning instead of opposite directions.

 

The power cables to the weapons have been assembled as matched pairs rather than one of each on each side.

 

It doesn't look like the cables to the cockpit have been attached at all.

 

Is the middle section of the legs on back to front and upside down?

 

Flat feet and upturned toes? Reaching a bit now.

[Emperors Immortals]

 

Very cool project! I cant wait to see it getting done :D

 

Also, I took a stab at the differences between this Hound and the Forge World one, youll notice I picked up an extra problem not mentioned in your clues. Number one is right, but not sure about the rest;

 

1. Legs seem to be on wrong side

 

2.Missing the "Cod Piece"? (cant quite see front shot clearly)

 

3.Cover plate on the thighs?

 

4.Something funky with the vents at the rear or the cover plate where t comes around the back looks not as bulky.

 

5.Weapon cables look wrong somehow

 

6.Didnt paint the plasma coil a shade of glowing awesome

 

7. Not enough spikes

 

 

Hoping I got more then 2 right.

 

p.s; can you please post some pic's of the crew? I've never seen inside one before.

[jokaero weaponsmith]

1. Cannon bone/gaskin back to front and up side down

2. Leg gait not natural would fall over. Rear leg should be extend further back

3. Hip joint on the left misaligned/ slipped disc

4. Back vents both slope to the left and right is set higher than left

5. Back of Plasma cannon is locked behind carapace in first picture maybe optical illusion.

6. Hydraulic ram missing cylinder rod from hip to hock

7. Multiple cables bundles should run from under side of cock pit to body if it were to copy FW web page put that down to artist licence

8. Weapon mount of plasma cannon is angled out and slightly back instead of forward as per FW model displacing cannon further way

from centre line than mega bolter.

9. Spikes missing from FW page again artist licence

Be dammed if I can see fault in third picture though maybe the carapace is sitting a little further back?

Picky maybe but i am all to aware of my own faults too.

To give credit were credits due that is one Stella paint job far in excess of any thing I can do.

[Emperors Immortals]

Comeooon Blackadder, I need updates!

 

Seriously though, its a hell of a task you have going for yourself and your Son, and its really good to hear fans sharing especially when there Father and Son.

 

@Jokaero isnt it a great paint job? im loving the weathering!

 

And between myself, Lucien and Jokaero I think we have found the faults.

 

Great looking kit too, im being offered one for AU$250 right now, I might have to think about it a little more though......

[Blackadder]

Don't know why I'm not getting response notices in my email; sorry to have not been keeping up with recent replies.

 

I finally managed to prime the entire titan with black prime. We had a lot of rain this past week, not conducive to spray painting and I have dedicated a significant amount of time to a certain unmentionable project namely my ***showcase Tyr-n-d army, H--r-ph-nt, H-rr-d-n Tryg-n etc; too bad you are missing out on it......Ha!

 

(Just google "cockroach coloured nids" for 2,000,000 hits on my threads.)

 

Well as I said the primer is done and the paint is ordered, I'm expecting it this week and I'll have to find my list of the discrepancies I found on the green Chaos Warhound

 

*** I don't actually play 40K I just build the models. My son is the player.

 

Oh, forgot, soon as the paint arrives I'll be doing a daily update.

[Blackadder]

 

 

Just a note to keep this thread updated. 

On the 13th June I ordered the requisite material to paint and finish the 'Chaos Warhound' the actual assembly of which is relatively simple now that I have all the parts cleaned and inventoried. I would like to at least index the leg components so a variety of poses will be possible contingent on the durability of the material. I cannot hope for the flexibility of 'Lucie" of course but some alternate positioning should be possible given the availability of threaded hardware and rare earth magnets.

So whilst I am waiting for the paint perhaps I should demonstrate how I intend to articulate the model.

[Blackadder]

Blackadder Paints a Chaos Warhound:

 

Whilst I have the paints set up for the Warlord I might as well prep the Chaos Warhound for painting as well.

 

The model was first primed with generic Walmart $0.99 cents a can grey primer followed by Walmart $0.99 cents a can flat black.

 

http://i.imgur.com/OUSaVPo.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/OUSaVPol.jpg

 

Now I've applied AV Model Air German Grey thinned 50/50 with Isopropyl alcohol.

 

http://i.imgur.com/XIT8E7c.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/XIT8E7cl.jpg

 

Since I don't have a Chaos army but I've always wanted to paint this model cadaverous green I figure I'll steal Jaro's paint scheme because....

 

1, It's the best I've seen. 

 

and B, It's exactly the way I would have done it had I the artistic talent.

 

The trouble his Warhound looks like a Forgefiend.

 

 

http://i.imgur.com/Aq9fzUB.jpg

[Blackadder]

POS Warhound:

 

Bet I'll raise some hackles with that title :D

 

What I am attempting to say is I ought to have my head examined using a Warhound for practice as if it were worthless just so I can refine my technique when I tackle my Warlord. 

 

http://i.imgur.com/xp7pfS6.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/xp7pfS6l.jpg

 

My reason being that painting a Chaos model you can hardly make a grievous mistake (within reason) and being resin the paint can be easily removed plus the airbrush applies paint so thinly that repainting doesn't appreciably obliterate detail. (again within reason)

 

So today after applying grey highlighting to the black base coat I started spraying on the main colour Vallejo AV Model Air Light Grey Green.

 

I used a 50/50 mix of paint to Isopropyl alcohol which is fabulous passing through my airbrush.

 

http://i.imgur.com/57i7yaA.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/57i7yaAl.jpg

 

Following Jaro's example I am not concerned with total coverage because the stains and washes will take up the gaps. What I want my Chaos model to have is a mottled surface in accord with the decrepit look of the Chaos genera. 

 

So While I learn I will be posting my successes and failures as a tutorial for those enjoy watching train wrecks...........

[Blackadder]

Sticking My Neck Out:

 

Blackadder is putting his neck on the block posting these images because I'm sure flagrant violations of good sense and technique abound in my painting. 

http://i.imgur.com/DSdNf31.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/DSdNf31l.jpg

 

The first error has already been pointed out to me; I am painting the individual parts instead of the assembled model.

 

http://i.imgur.com/nfypNzG.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/nfypNzGl.jpg

 

Why this is a problem has not manifested itself to me yet but I am sure the awful truth will make itself evident summarily.

 

http://i.imgur.com/nVYPydQ.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/nVYPydQl.jpg

 

So anyone (and I am sure there are many that are saying, "He's headed for a fall.") that can offer a reasonable critique be advised, "Here's your chance."  

 

Just an update; about 75% of the model has been coated with the main colour thus far.

[Blackadder]

Harder Than it Looks:

 

I've viewed with appetite others work with green stuff but have rarely had a necessity for working with it myself 

 

Until today! 

 

What I am attempting to do is convert a Mars Turbo Laser into a Chaos facsimile by distressing, gouging and generally effing up what heretofore was a pretty good casting by FW standards of the weapon that is not offered for Chaos Warhounds.

 

Well working with GreenStuff is harder than it looks not because the sculpting is actually hard but the stuff is extremely sticky. I made the mistake of letting it sit on my desk top and it adhered itself almost instantly! Now I have a stain on my writing desk.

 

It sticks with great avidity to my sculpting tools, my Xacto blades everything in fact except where I want to apply it where it perversely refuses to adhere.

 

Anyway after fighting with the stuff for what seems hours I managed to get it where I wanted in a reasonable fashion 

 

http://i.imgur.com/zEJXGQ1.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/zEJXGQ1l.jpg

 

and let it sit for a while.

 

After what I thought was a judicious length of time I figure it was set enough to work the other side of the housing but no the stuff apparently needs a lot of curing time as although seemingly stable to the touch it is still quite malleable.  

 

http://i.imgur.com/TgPAMyt.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/TgPAMytl.jpg

 

So a tip of my hat to GreenStuff sculptors, You earn my applause.

[Blackadder]

Magnets, Magnets, Magnets:

 

This thing is gonna be held together with magnets any place I can justify putting them (No innuendos please....)

 

It started with the waist to hip block where I have two 18 MM dia. by 3 MM thick Neodymium Magnets held in place with GreenStuff.  

 

http://i.imgur.com/vRLoPOF.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/vRLoPOFl.jpg

 

The neck joint has two 12 MM dia by 3 MM to hold the head on.

 

http://i.imgur.com/lu2P1hX.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/lu2P1hXl.jpg

 

The weapons will be interchangeable being 2 Plasma Cannons, a Megabolter and a Turbo Laser.

 

Naturally the carapace and head armour will be held on with magnets also the greaves, waist and thigh armour and the interior center bulkhead. That's about all for now until I get to the final assembly.

[Blackadder]

Vallejo Black Metal:

 

I had intended to use powdered Graphite (the stuff ya used to lubricate the axles of yer PineWood Derby racers) for my interior work but the Vallejo Model Air Black Metal 71.073 seems to do the job excellently. 

 

The first image in flash was too intense

 

http://i.imgur.com/509Trup.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/509Trupl.jpg

 

So macro shots in natural light seems the way to go.

 

http://i.imgur.com/sHI3OwY.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/sHI3OwYl.jpg

 

Right now after my initial coat of black spray paint I highlighted the larger flat areas with Vallejo Model Air AV German Grey  71.052 followed by Vallejo Model Air AV Lt Grey Green 71.044 with my airbrush.

 

Just for brevity let's assume that all the paint mentioned below and from now on unless otherwise stipulated will be:

 

Vallejo Model Air AV paints, I'll just give the colour and the stock number.

 

http://i.imgur.com/MEzwe5z.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/MEzwe5zl.jpg

 

This morning I dry-brushed 'Steel'  71.065 onto the still black areas and Black Metal onto the Lt Grey/Green 71.044 panels.

 

http://i.imgur.com/yY9oJku.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/yY9oJkul.jpg

 

So far that's the only painting done to these pieces and I think the effect is passable.

 

http://i.imgur.com/2aVwUp1.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/2aVwUp1l.jpg

 

It's a shame to obfuscate the wealth of detail of this Chaos  interior with gobs of paint as is seen on most of the images I've pulled up on 'google images' so I will be dry-brushing all the colours I apply to the interior just to highlight the detail.

 

http://i.imgur.com/leb7AVd.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/leb7AVdl.jpg

 

I got a bit sloppy on the vent screen above; the brush was a tad too wet. Damn!

 

http://i.imgur.com/X4W5ZOb.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/X4W5ZObl.jpg

 

The two servitors came out fine; How ever do they mould these intricate details!??????

[Sgt. Blank]

I've read many of you logs and am always impressed and amazed by your work. I am sure these models will turnout great!

 

As far as the greenstuff, I am no expert but a couple things I've found that help with sticking. First, keep the GS and your tools wet. Second I usually mix gs on wax paper - it won't stick and it's always clean of debris, unlike my workbench. Third, you can use cooking oil, vaseline or even chapstick to keep the gs from sticking to tools.

 

Hope that helps!

[IamJacksUserName]

I never thought I would see the day I would give Blackkadder advice on modeling. Most of the time I look at your work and can't respond with anything, as I don't know the right words that can live up to the level of work you produce.

As for green stuff however I feel qualified to give advice.

I have found that if you mix it and give it 15 to 20 minutes before working with it, it has time to set a little and isn't as bad. Also as mentioned by Sgt. blank keeping your tools wet will also help.

For my process (may not work for everyone) I usually attach the green stuff to what ever part of the model I need it on in the basic shape I want. I let it sit for about 15 minutes and then wet the green stuff itself before sculpting detail. I try then to let the model sit for the rest of the night before trying to add anything else to let the greenstuff to cure fully. (you could probably get away with 2 or 3 hours depending on the ratio you mix it)

Vaseline or vegetable oil will also work to keep it from sticking to your tools, but have personally found it makes more of a mess than I care to be bothered with. It also becomes a problem if you don't like what you have done. You can't pull off the green stuff and start over as there is now oil/Vaseline all over it.

I hope that is helpfully and continually look forward to seeing your projects.

[Blackadder]

Thanks for the advice. The water works fine, I shouldn't need vasoline for the work I am doing now.

 

The Interminable Interior:

 

I worked for two hours today dry-brushing various colours into the pieces. I had to learn how to apply rust as a highlight.

http://i.imgur.com/ZYmzLMj.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ZYmzLMjl.jpg

 

 

 

http://i.imgur.com/jUhPYnm.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/jUhPYnml.jpg

 

 

 

http://i.imgur.com/Xfo881C.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Xfo881Cl.jpg

 

These ceiling pieces came out better than expected even in the camera shots AV Model Air Rust 71.069 did a good job in this area.

 

http://i.imgur.com/d147k3f.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/d147k3fl.jpg

 

The rust in this area is a big disappointment and has to be redone.

 

http://i.imgur.com/MDjPXca.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/MDjPXcal.jpg

 

The servators still need bone white highlighting.

 

http://i.imgur.com/NUB52yl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/NUB52yll.jpg

 

This guy is my favorite, I have to leave the center bulkhead removable so he can be seen. This still needs AV Game Color Bone White 72.034 highlighting over Citadel Base Rakarth Flesh.

 

http://i.imgur.com/iwpmas8.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/iwpmas8l.jpg

 

Perhaps tomorrow I'll be able to introduce a bit of colour to this drab interior.

[Blackadder]

Blackadder"s Subtifuge:

 

Sorry but it's just impossible to take a decent image of these interiors without a bit of photoshopping. The images without flash are too dark and out of focus and with a flash are too washed out so i employed my editor to give what I believe is the most colour true and accurate real life image I can manage.

 

directly below is the cockpit and while the ganglia and appendages are a tad washed out the overall image is a true as I can make them to real light and colour value.

 

http://i.imgur.com/JkVxGeU.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/JkVxGeUl.jpg

 

This next image of the Tech Priest is the best of dozens of trial images which unfortunately does not display the the wealth of detail in this area. I acknowledge that the gold trim above the figure still needs quite a bit of work...........

 

http://i.imgur.com/cx0V8du.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/cx0V8dul.jpg

 

Finally the poor dude on the back bulkhead has seen better days but at least the colour and darkness value is as true as my poor editor can produce.

 

http://i.imgur.com/UV7SEQR.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/UV7SEQRl.jpg

 

Let me state for the record my son and I are at odds about the conduits attached to the appendages of the the crew of the vehicle.

 

He maintains that the connections are wire and I believe they represent ganglia so therefore his Warhound will be red and blue wires and my connections will be bone white as I believe look more like organic nerve ganglia. 

 

I also opted to dry brush the web-like connective tissue Rakarth Flesh with bone white highlights whereas he has not addressed the problem as yet.

[Blackadder]

In Demigod We Rust:

 

The basic coat of rust is applied of which this is a fair sampling I'm using Vallejo AV Model Air Rust 71.080 50/50 paint to alcohol which seems a bit light for rust colour but once the black wash is on it will darken. While eventually the entire model will be getting a dusting of dry rust pigments I feel certain cancerous areas need this extra painting of corrosion in the deeper wounds.

 

Once all the painted rusting is in place I will try highlighting the subcutaneous ganglia etc, with Rakarth Flesh and Bone White.

 

 

http://i.imgur.com/aGSSHIB.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/aGSSHIBl.jpg

 

Vallejo also makes a metallic rust but I don't like the sparkly look. Rust shouldn't sparkle.

 

http://i.imgur.com/HaG5CFI.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/HaG5CFIl.jpg

[Lucien Eilam]

Let me state for the record my son and I are at odds about the conduits attached to the appendages of the the crew of the vehicle.

 

He maintains that the connections are wire and I believe they represent ganglia so therefore his Warhound will be red and blue wires and my connections will be bone white as I believe look more like organic nerve ganglia. 

 

I also opted to dry brush the web-like connective tissue Rakarth Flesh with bone white highlights whereas he has not addressed the problem as yet.

 

For a Chaos Titan, I'd probably go with "both". Really highlight men and machine warped into a single entity.

[Blackadder]

Supricating Pustules:

 

Well google let me down; there is no such word as 'supricating' according to google so I guess I've spawned a neologism. 

 

Supricate: to ooze a noxious amniotic fluid from an ulcer or cyst; Gagggg!

 

The abscesses are coming along nicely and I should be ready to begin assembly tomorrow. Virtually all the painting is done and I can apply the washes when the model is in one piece. 

 

Here's a barrage of images that should be self-explanatory; I beg your pardon for the poor quality:

     

http://i.imgur.com/oZxzs2H.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/oZxzs2Hl.jpg

 

I'm looking into purchasing a light box for photographing....

 

http://i.imgur.com/dQ9s7hb.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/dQ9s7hbl.jpg

 

Same picture different light source not much better but it's the sores we're interested in.

 

http://i.imgur.com/BIljbSV.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/BIljbSVl.jpg

 

I'm rather pleases how the living tissue turned out it's even more repulsive than my Tyranids. Ha!

 

http://i.imgur.com/BahV1nK.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/BahV1nKl.jpg

 

Once the washes are applied the wounds will take on a wetter appearance I'm hoping.

 

http://i.imgur.com/JmO5OsJ.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/JmO5OsJl.jpg

 

The ganglia is Citadel 'Rakarth Flesh' highlighted with AV 'Bone White' all dry brushed on.

 

http://i.imgur.com/b4xFCBy.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/b4xFCByl.jpg

[Blackadder]

No One Move, I Dropped My Contact Lens:

 

I had to try this because the most obvious image that came to my mind was Peter Jackson's 'Eye of Sauron' for the waist shield orb.

 

Well all the colours are there but I think it needs to be a gif to make it come alive. I do have to shrink the highlight a bit. 

 

http://i.imgur.com/MvmKHdFl.jpg

 

 

http://i.imgur.com/RzmtgcEl.jpg

 

 

http://i.imgur.com/BR9cNepl.jpg

 

It still needs a little more drybrushing.