winterdyne Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 Another assault squad done on this army... these are tabletop jobs, so not my finest work. But they're quick. Sorta. http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/images/commissions/victor/bloodangels/assault3_all_done.jpg http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/images/commissions/victor/bloodangels/assault3_sgt_done.jpg http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/images/commissions/victor/bloodangels/assault3_1_done.jpg http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/images/commissions/victor/bloodangels/assault3_2_done.jpg http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/images/commissions/victor/bloodangels/assault3_3_done.jpg http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/images/commissions/victor/bloodangels/assault3_4_done.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olis Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 Beautiful work, as usual, Winterdyne. :P Those teeny weeny ferns are nice - what are they made from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterdyne Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 Brass etch from Antenociti's Workshop. They're pretty thick, so they're nice and robust for gaming bases. Some of the half-etch (very detailed) ones you can get break if you look at 'em funny, which is fine for display pieces, but I don't like using them on anything that'll get picked up a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Kirus Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 Nice job! Did you freehand squad symbols? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterdyne Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 Yeah. The BA icon is a decal (sergeants is painted over; yellow decal on black always looks crap), but everything else is freehand. On previous models I used a decal to guide paintwork for the company marking (black blood drop) but didn't bother this time. Can't really tell the difference and it's faster to freehand it than to muck about with many applications of microsol... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elohimalpha Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 Holy crap. That's tabletop standard? That's got to be a pretty sexy table then... Great work! The only thing that jumped out to me were the chainswords - the black looks pretty clean/damage-free for something that's used to hack open filthy xenos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterdyne Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 Yeah, I've not done any damage on any of the weapons in the army. Might do it in final tweaks. Will see what the client wants. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schultzhoffen Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 Table top standard? What the hell do models look like when you really put in the effort....? I really like the Sergeant's Power Axe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rider-75 Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 Nice as always :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexCrute Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 These are right up the pointy end of the quality scale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterdyne Posted November 16, 2012 Author Share Posted November 16, 2012 @Schultzhoffen: Actually, at competition grade there's generally not that far a step from the high end TT we do (for squads and vehicles like these anyway). The primary difference is in prep (you *really* can't have any mould lines, everything must be as perfect as you can get it) and in having to correct any and all mistakes noticed. There is no point to stop and say 'ah, it'll do', until it's basically flawless. 'Course sometimes you're doing something more 'arty' like full NMM jobs or the like, and those do have a different look and feel, but in terms of time it's the mistake elimination that takes the longest in all cases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fire Lord Captain Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 These look both hard and beautiful!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ravenguard2010 Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 Very nice stuff there man! You don't happen to have any tips or a tutorial for that power axe? Mighty fine job there on that especially. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EgoDraconumNigrorum Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 Another assault squad done on this army... these are tabletop jobs, so not my finest work. But they're quick. Sorta. You class these as just a quick tabletop job!!?? Wow! Gotta see some of your finest work then as these Blood Angels are brilliant! - EgoDraconumNigrorum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterdyne Posted November 16, 2012 Author Share Posted November 16, 2012 The power axe is pretty simple; base coat of hawk turquoise, then blend down to black and up to an off-white, aiming for a smooth transition to hawk turquoise in the centre. Use a contra-highlight (gem, NMM) placement. Edges and lightning with a slightly whiter off-whit, then dot extreme corners and where the highlights meet with pure white. OSL glow with a little turquoise and turquoise-white mix. Be subtle with OSL, it works better that way I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ravenguard2010 Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 The power axe is pretty simple; base coat of hawk turquoise, then blend down to black and up to an off-white, aiming for a smooth transition to hawk turquoise in the centre. Use a contra-highlight (gem, NMM) placement. Edges and lightning with a slightly whiter off-whit, then dot extreme corners and where the highlights meet with pure white. OSL glow with a little turquoise and turquoise-white mix. Be subtle with OSL, it works better that way I think. Top man. Shall be trying this on my Omega sergeant tomorrow. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chapter Master Onyxius Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 That is amazing, now I want some too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Widowmaker Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 Lovely work as always, Winterdyne. Makes me want to go back and repaint all my Blood Angels. And I'll add my thanks for that power axe tutorial - the effect is awesome. I'm gonna have to try it out soon. Keep up the good work. Cheers, Widowmaker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HellChyld Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 would you do a tutorial on how you do the battle damage on the helmets and such? excellent marines for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshal Reinhard Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 My first reaction to seeing these were "Wait, he calls THIS 'tabletop-quality'?" After staring at them for 15 minutes or more, I kind of can see why you wouldn't say they're YOUR best, but they're still so many light years ahead of my and I think most other people's best I get dizzy ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Octagon Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 THIS is the red the Angels should be wearing. :) Others usually go for a more intense red. boring. How did you paint the red? tell me and then I have no excuse not to make an army :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterdyne Posted November 21, 2012 Author Share Posted November 21, 2012 These were given a zenithal coat of the colours below, but need reglazing. There was no real benefit other than a highlight 'guide' for the zenithal coat. Just not enough pop on it. What I ended up doing: Vallejo Red brown primer or VMC Burnt Cadmium Red basecoat over black. Dark Red. I had this stage with the zenithal coat, which gives a guide for highlighting, but not enough to be worth it if you already know the pattern you need. Hit edges with a wide line (wider than you would for an edge highlight) of Panzer Aces New Wood. An orange-brown. Blend that back on high surfaces with a mix of the above and some bright red (blood red). This mix for 'flat' highlights on upward surfaces like the backs of legs, shoulder pads. Glaze up again wth bright red (blood red). This brightens it and makes it 'redder'. Hit shade where necessary with the dark red. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MithrilForge Posted November 22, 2012 Share Posted November 22, 2012 As usual ......great stuff :( they are fantastic tabletop quality ;) the red really does suit them well. if i may ask? the helmet yellow is awesomesauce!, can you give a quick rundown of the colors used please cheers, Mithril Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterdyne Posted November 22, 2012 Author Share Posted November 22, 2012 Iyanden Darksun, Sepia wash, Iyanden Darksun, VMC Flat Yellow, VMC Light Yellow edges, VMC Ice yellow extremes. Chipping with Ice Yellow and GW scorched brown. Lenses; DA Green, Scorpion green, Scorpion Green + VMC Ivory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MithrilForge Posted November 23, 2012 Share Posted November 23, 2012 thanks for that winterdyne :tu: are there equivalents for those VMC yellows in the new GW range? mithril Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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