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[Commission] Blood Angels Assault Squad on foot


winterdyne

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Another assault squad done on this army... these are tabletop jobs, so not my finest work. But they're quick. Sorta.

 

 

http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/images/commissions/victor/bloodangels/assault3_all_done.jpg

 

http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/images/commissions/victor/bloodangels/assault3_sgt_done.jpg

 

http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/images/commissions/victor/bloodangels/assault3_1_done.jpg

 

http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/images/commissions/victor/bloodangels/assault3_2_done.jpg

 

http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/images/commissions/victor/bloodangels/assault3_3_done.jpg

 

http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/images/commissions/victor/bloodangels/assault3_4_done.jpg

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Brass etch from Antenociti's Workshop. They're pretty thick, so they're nice and robust for gaming bases. Some of the half-etch (very detailed) ones you can get break if you look at 'em funny, which is fine for display pieces, but I don't like using them on anything that'll get picked up a lot.
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Yeah. The BA icon is a decal (sergeants is painted over; yellow decal on black always looks crap), but everything else is freehand. On previous models I used a decal to guide paintwork for the company marking (black blood drop) but didn't bother this time. Can't really tell the difference and it's faster to freehand it than to muck about with many applications of microsol...
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@Schultzhoffen: Actually, at competition grade there's generally not that far a step from the high end TT we do (for squads and vehicles like these anyway). The primary difference is in prep (you *really* can't have any mould lines, everything must be as perfect as you can get it) and in having to correct any and all mistakes noticed. There is no point to stop and say 'ah, it'll do', until it's basically flawless. 'Course sometimes you're doing something more 'arty' like full NMM jobs or the like, and those do have a different look and feel, but in terms of time it's the mistake elimination that takes the longest in all cases.
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The power axe is pretty simple; base coat of hawk turquoise, then blend down to black and up to an off-white, aiming for a smooth transition to hawk turquoise in the centre. Use a contra-highlight (gem, NMM) placement. Edges and lightning with a slightly whiter off-whit, then dot extreme corners and where the highlights meet with pure white. OSL glow with a little turquoise and turquoise-white mix. Be subtle with OSL, it works better that way I think.
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The power axe is pretty simple; base coat of hawk turquoise, then blend down to black and up to an off-white, aiming for a smooth transition to hawk turquoise in the centre. Use a contra-highlight (gem, NMM) placement. Edges and lightning with a slightly whiter off-whit, then dot extreme corners and where the highlights meet with pure white. OSL glow with a little turquoise and turquoise-white mix. Be subtle with OSL, it works better that way I think.

 

Top man. Shall be trying this on my Omega sergeant tomorrow. Cheers

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These were given a zenithal coat of the colours below, but need reglazing. There was no real benefit other than a highlight 'guide' for the zenithal coat. Just not enough pop on it.

 

What I ended up doing:

 

Vallejo Red brown primer or VMC Burnt Cadmium Red basecoat over black. Dark Red. I had this stage with the zenithal coat, which gives a guide for highlighting, but not enough to be worth it if you already know the pattern you need.

Hit edges with a wide line (wider than you would for an edge highlight) of Panzer Aces New Wood. An orange-brown.

Blend that back on high surfaces with a mix of the above and some bright red (blood red). This mix for 'flat' highlights on upward surfaces like the backs of legs, shoulder pads.

Glaze up again wth bright red (blood red). This brightens it and makes it 'redder'.

Hit shade where necessary with the dark red.

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