What is resin like?

[saadeath]

I've never messed with resin before. I have heard it is some sort of metal. For the purposes of conversion is resin easily worked like plastic, or is it more like metal?

[maverike_prime]

I've never messed with resin before. I have heard it is some sort of metal. For the purposes of conversion is resin easily worked like plastic, or is it more like metal?

 

Whoever told you resin is in any form a metal was talking out of their ass. It is not a metal and closer to a plastic then a metal, but even that is a poor comparison. First thing to understand is that there are dozens of types of resin. I can't speak about the various types of resin as I'm only just learning about them. some are stronger, some are lighter, some are better for large sections but poor for details ect.

 

Referring to the Resin that Games Workshop uses for it's Finecast line it is a light weight material that is comparably soft but actually better at holding sharp details then plastic. If needed it can be reshaped slightly but placing the piece of resin in hot water for a few moments. This will heat up the resin and make it pliable.

 

The Resin that Forge World uses is a little different. It's a denser chemical combination and thus is stronger but heavier. On the infantry pieces this is almost a non-issue as you're only talking about the difference of .hundreds of an ounce in weight. Lager models like the Warhound can become quit heavy.

 

Working with Resin, particularly the larger pieces, requires special considerations.

 

1) Firstly prolonged exposure to resin dust causes health problems. Avoid just sanding it like you would metal or plastic.

-Because of this there are two approaches I've read about. 1- wear a respirator when working with Resin. Keep a shop vacuum handy and running with a wet paper towel set into the hose. Keep the vacuum running when shading and keep the piece near the hose. The wet paper towel will catch the resin dust and keep you from breathing it in. Like wise if the vacuum sucks up the piece it will catch that as well.

2- Work with the piece in a bucket of water. The Water will trap the resin debris and again keep you from breathing it in.

 

2) Depending on the resin in question, it can be quit soft when it comes to cutting. Treat it as you would a soft plastic. If your blade is having ANY difficulty in cutting the resin or shaving a mold line, change your blade. It is getting dull.

 

3) Resin tend to hold mold releases more readily then plastics and metals. Because of this it is absolutely vital that you clean the parts thoroughly before assembling them.

 

4) Pining the parts is highly advised. Don't waste your time with plastic glues. They won't work with resin at all. Use super glue or modeling epoxies.

 

5) Have a bottle of Liquid green stuff handy. Chances are you'll need it when working with Resin from time to time.

[Narse]

This link has some info near the bottom.

Resin info

[Cpt_Reaper]

Just wondering what is the safest way to remove paint from resin? I have a Grey Knight dread and Inquisitor Hex that I'd like to repaint but am unsure if it's a good idea to let it soak overnight in a tub of methylated spirits or dettol (I prefer metho though...the smell of dettol makes my skin crawl. Long story...)

[Gurth]

1) Firstly prolonged exposure to resin dust causes health problems. Avoid just sanding it like you would metal or plastic.

-Because of this there are two approaches I've read about. 1- wear a respirator when working with Resin. Keep a shop vacuum handy and running with a wet paper towel set into the hose. Keep the vacuum running when shading and keep the piece near the hose. The wet paper towel will catch the resin dust and keep you from breathing it in. Like wise if the vacuum sucks up the piece it will catch that as well.

2- Work with the piece in a bucket of water. The Water will trap the resin debris and again keep you from breathing it in.

Or just wet-sand it, making sure to keep your sandpaper wet enough to catch the dust. Sawing can still be a problem, because you can't really do that wet, but if you keep the cuts to a minimum and get rid of the dust soon I doubt you're going to suffer any ill effects from it. (There is such a thing as being too careful, IMHO.)

 

2) Depending on the resin in question, it can be quit soft when it comes to cutting. Treat it as you would a soft plastic. If your blade is having ANY difficulty in cutting the resin or shaving a mold line, change your blade. It is getting dull.

Polyurethane resin tends to feel a lot like grainless wood when you're working it, I'd say. Generally easier to work than plastic, so it may be a good idea to do a little experimentation on the sprues before cutting or drilling in a model's parts.

[Tanhausen]

Just wondering what is the safest way to remove paint from resin? I have a Grey Knight dread and Inquisitor Hex that I'd like to repaint but am unsure if it's a good idea to let it soak overnight in a tub of methylated spirits or dettol (I prefer metho though...the smell of dettol makes my skin crawl. Long story...)

 

Isopropylic alcohol...resin and plastic safe, cheapish (4€/1L), reusable and strips even the primer.

[latch66]

Another factor with Resin it will sometimes be "bent" from it's preferred shape. I've never had any luck doing any type of "manual" readjustment of the part without having some form of heat to apply to the part.

 

It's according to the resin, but with GW Finecast, I have had great luck using running hot tap water. I hold the area of the part I want to reshape under the water for about 30 seconds or so, I then gently adjust the part. You might have to hold the part in position while the part cools back down.

 

With other resins, I've had to use a heat-gun (RC Model Shop) to get the part to soften to where it can be moved.

 

Experiment first as ymmv, but start with the hot water first. Using a heat-gun is like using a flame-thrower compared to the running hot tap water.

[saadeath]

Well that's some good news. I was really sad when I heard it was some sort of metal, I don't enjoy working with metal. What kind of health risks are involved? Most of the converting I plan on doing with the GW finecast is shaving off iconography.

[Azekai]

Resin dust is toxic. Initial health problems are similar to an asthmatic reaction. The stuff also seems to be a carcinogenic (what isn't these days), but that is a lesser concern since you shouldn't be dealing with the effects of prolonged exposure.